How To Keep Wasps From Fruit — Preventing Wasps In Fruit Trees

Do Fruit Trees Attract Wasps: Tips On Keeping Wasps Away From Fruit Trees

Hornets, yellow jackets, and all wasps are generally beneficial predatory insects that feast on soft bodied insects that often wreak havoc on our food crops — often fruit trees. Unfortunately, resident wasps on fruit pose a bit of a danger. For this reason, keeping wasps away from fruit trees is important.

Do Fruit Trees Attract Wasps?

Almost an inane question, “Do fruit trees attract wasps?” While wasps feed on a variety of pests during the early to mid growing season, their interest shifts from those protein sources to the irresistible sugary taste of ripe berries and fruits in the late summer to early fall. Don’t we all lust after the fresh produce of that season? It’s no wonder wasps in fruit trees are as intrinsic as people in fruit trees. We both want the same thing.

Of course, the down side of these tiny predators habituating the same arena as humans is their potentially dangerous stings. For some people, the sting from wasps on fruit may be a painful annoyance, but for others it is a very real threat, potentially deadly. Many people die from a single wasp sting if hypersensitive to its toxin; for those not allergic to the venom, it takes about 1,500 stings to become fatal.

Unlike honeybees, which sting once and then die, stinging wasps in fruit trees and elsewhere may attack multiple times. They also release a pheromone that signals other wasps to come to their aid, creating a possible attack by hordes of wasps.

How to Keep Wasps from Fruit Trees

Wasps in fruit trees will vigorously defend their territory when disturbed by harvesting hands and ladders. Some protection is provided by wearing heavy clothing with gloves, socks and boots taped or banded underneath so the wasps can’t reach tender skin. Also, a bee keeper’s hat and veil are not a bad idea.

However, if you are allergic (call an exterminator and do not go near the nest!) or the wasps are seriously impeding your ability to harvest the fruit, keeping wasps away from fruit trees may be of paramount importance.

Since the wasps are attracted to the sugars of the ripe fruits, you should know they are interested in the juice oozing intoxicants of damaged produce as well. Make sure to maintain a tidy area around the fruit tree, cleaning up any fallen fruit and cull any damaged fruit still hanging from the limbs.

Control products containing pyrethroids and penetrans can be used to control the wasps in trees; however, pyrethroid sprays may also eliminate beneficial predatory mites, resulting in greater populations of pest mites. Broad spectrum insecticides with organophosphate at specific times dependent on the species of hornet or yellow jackets may also reduce populations. Many species die off in the fall except the queen. Eliminating the queen in the spring before she can lay eggs and begin to grow a colony is easier and more expeditious than attempting elimination of an entire colony in the fall.

When spraying the wasps in trees, it is best to purchase an insecticide called JET spray, which will emit a solid stream reaching ten feet or greater rather than a fine mist that barely reaches a foot. Wasps are inactive at night, so this is the best time to treat the nest. Use a flashlight with a red filter; wasps do not view the color red well. Spray the entrance quickly and thoroughly two hours after darkness falls, then don’t linger, walk away and stay away for a full day. If you are treating a ground colony, cover the entrance with a quick shovelful of soil to block the entrance.

Finally, a bait trap filled with fish or other meat early in the season may also help in keeping wasps from fruit trees. These exist commercially or you can fashion your own.

www.gardeningknowhow.com

What is good grape «Julian» and how to care for him

Recently, the grape «Julian» is gaining great popularity because of its qualities, and the self-grown shrub of this variety is the pride of any grower. In this article we will get acquainted with the grapes «Julian» — the description and rules of care for the variety, photo.

Story

This variety was bred by amateur breeder V. V. Kapelyushin, crossing the famous varieties «Rizamat» and «Kesha». According to the statements of many winegrowers, «Julian» has good resistance to cold, but still he feels best in the southern regions. Also an important characteristic is its earlier ripening, harvest can be collected at the end of July or in August.

Did you know? In the world there are about 20 thousand grapes.

Description and distinctive characteristics of the variety

«Julian» refers to the table variety. It matures quite quickly, usually in three months. Its fruits are oblong in shape with a long stem, in a ripe form they acquire a pink color with a slight yellow tinge, can reach 4 cm in length, and about 3 cm in width.

The grapes «Julian», based on the reviews, has a very sweet and crisp flesh, and its skin is so thin that it can be eaten without any problems. An important quality is the good transportability of grapes and their long storage.

Features of growing

The variety «Julian» is classified as unpretentious, but, like most cultivated varieties, it has certain requirements for the place where it will be planted. =

Lighting

The grapes of this variety prefers places with lots of sunshineTherefore, the winegrowers recommend planting a plant on the south side of buildings or hedges. Also, grapes should be protected from the winds, because its vines do not tolerate a draft. To do this, you can install a protective film or other durable material from the east and north of the plant.

You can also read about the cultivation of other grape varieties: «Cabernet Sauvignon», «Ladies Fingers», «Annie», «Chameleon», «Veles», «Zabava», «Sofia», «Augustine», «Helios», «Nizina» «,» Ruslan «,» Talisman «,» Pretty Woman «,» Lily of the Valley «,» Isabella «,» Vodogray «,» Gala «,» Rochefort «,» Extra «,» Rumba «,» Libya «,» Kishmish «, «Cardinal».

Soil requirements

This variety prefers fertile soil with medium or low acidity. Therefore, if the earth is acidified, you need to add lime to it with the calculation of 200 g per 1 sq. M. To improve fertility, it is best to fertilize the land using compost, manure, and mineral fertilizers.

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Planting varieties «Julian»

This variety has a good root system, which allows it to root well into the ground, in 95% of cases, grapes take root easily. And the planting of Julian grapes itself is not much different from the planting of other varieties.

Selection of seedlings

When choosing a plant, the first thing you need pay attention to its roots. The root system must be developed and have at least three strong roots and many small ones.

You also need to make a small cut at the root, it must be white or very light, and at the same time the juice stands out. If the cut is dry and has a dark color, then this seedling is already dead. You can check the condition of the seedling by cutting the top of the plant, you should see a bright green color on the cut.

Important! You should not buy seedlings before the beginning of the planting season, as there are many ways to accelerate growth, but at the same time the grapes grow weak, and after transplantation there is a high probability that it will not be able to settle down.

When buying a sapling with hard bark in the fall, pay attention to the fact that there are no leaves on it, because through the leaves the dug plant extremely quickly loses the necessary moisture and nutrients, this factor very complicates the survival of the grapes.

Timing

Landing dates vary by region. In the southern regions with mild and warm winters landing «Juliana» is carried out from October to March. In the rest of the regions, where the climate is cooler, planting seedlings should be dealt with in the spring, before buds bloom. When blooming buds need to plant cuttings.

Important! When planting cuttings, the temperature of the soil at the roots should not be less than 10 °WITH.

Landing pattern

For planting grapes should dig a hole about 80 cm deep and the same in diameter. If the soil in the place where you are going to plant the «Julian», is too wet, you need to fill the drainage, and a few weeks before planting the seedlings should dig a hole and let it dry.

When the pit is dug, you need to prepare a soil mixture, which consists of soft earth, humus, and add about 400 g of superphosphate. If the soil is clay, you need to add sand to the mixture (as much as the ground).

Grade Care

«Julian», like all other varieties, needs proper care, which consists of proper watering, fertilizer and pruning.

Watering

Irrigation mode is very important for the full growth of grapes «Julian». His need water only a few times per seasonn The first watering is carried out a week before flowering, and the next is after it ends. During these irrigations, it is recommended to add a small amount of wood ash to the water.

Important! Watering during flowering is prohibited, otherwise inflorescence petals may fall.

Fertilizer

«Julian» needs frequent fertilization, as the plant spends a lot of energy on its fruits. Therefore, it is necessary to carry out periodic fertilizers with potassium-phosphorus preparations, introducing them either under the root or spraying.

Also, mineral fertilizers should be added to the soil every year, and in the spring the root should be covered with a layer of compost about 5 cm. This variety reacts strongly to the absence of magnesium, therefore every 14 days you need to spray the bush with sulfuric acid magnesium (250 g of the product per bucket of water). This dressing is carried out throughout the growing season, until the fruit ripens.

Pruning

Pruning is no less important than watering and fertilizer, and is a mandatory procedure for the grapes «Julian». When pruning on one vine should be no more than 10 buds, and on the bush should be no more than 45.

In the summer, you need to prune the clusters so that the berries are larger and have better taste characteristics. In young plants, it is recommended to leave a bunch on a bunch in the amount equal to the age of the grapes. In the fourth year after planting on the bush, it will be possible to leave up to 10 bunches.

How to protect grapes from diseases and pests

«Julian» can be attributed to very young varieties, and therefore its resistance to various diseases is still poorly understood, but some qualities of the grapes are known. This variety received from its progenitor («Kesha») resistance to such diseases as oidium and downy mildew, or mildew. But still do not neglect preventive measures from these diseases. Protection against oidium is carried out by spraying the bushes with colloidal sulfur.

In the rainy season to avoid anthracnose, which affects the leaves and young shoots, forming brown spots on them, you should spray “Julian” Bordeaux liquid. The same liquid can be useful in case of Alternaria, which occurs in wet, but hot weather and affects the fruit.

«Julian» is resistant to such common problems of vineyards as wasps, spider mites, gray rot, but the disease can occur under conditions favorable to it. To combat it, use antifungal drugs such as Topaz, Khom, Kurzat.

Did you know? For the production of one bottle of wine on average, you need about 600 grapes.

Do I need shelter for the winter

«Julian» — heat-loving varietytherefore, in regions with cold winters, he needs compulsory shelter.

Shelters are often engaged in mid-October; for this, the bush is tied up in a bun and sprinkled with earth 10 cm, it is also recommended to cover the grapes first with a bag, then cover it with earth and cover with slate or board about 3 cm, then cover all with plastic wrap to protect the plant from abundant ingress of water during melting snow. Directly in winter, it is recommended to keep a layer of snow above the plant about half a meter.

The advantages and disadvantages of the variety

The main advantages of the grape «Julian» include its resistance to heat, to many diseases and parasites with which it can be attacked, and, of course, its main trump card is high-quality sweet and juicy fruits.

But, based on the reviews of winegrowers, the disadvantages include its weak resistance to frost more than -20 ° C, although most breeders say that it can withstand more.

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Summing up, we can say that this grape variety will suit both experienced growers and beginners, because caring for them is relatively simple and does not require large physical and financial costs.

zw.farmforage.com

How to protect grapes from wasps — tips from experienced winegrowers

Top 5 tips to better organize the harvest

The most exciting time of the year, for winegrowers began. That’s the time of the year when winegrowers are harvesting their past hard work. In the grape growing areas of the northern hemisphere, the grape harvest are already in a full swing. In the warmer areas, grapes are already picked, while in other areas (and late varieties) harvest will begin in the traditionally grape harvest month – September. Even though harvesting its super exciting, it’s also the busiest time of the year. Since there are several things that need to be considered when organizing the harvest, we selected the top 5 tips for better organizing the harvest. But before we get into the business, let’s have a look (how to know) when the grapes are ready for the harvest.

When grapes are ripe?

Grapes need to be picked when they are fully ripe. The first harbingers of grape maturity can be determinated by our senses. The first indicator of ripeness is the color of the grapes. Red grape varieties in their full ripeness develop deep purple-blue color while white grape varieties lighten, and their skin color turns almost yellow. When grapes get the proper color they usually need, depends on the variety and the weather, another 1 to 3 week to develop their full sweetness. The easiest way to determined the sweetness of the grape is by tasting them. Ripe grapes taste sweet, not tart; you also need to consider that each variety has its own unique flavor. On touch, the ripe grapes feel soft, plump and full of juice. Vineyard full of fully ripe grapes emits a pleasant sweet smell, so you will know when to harvest. A very good sign of full ripeness are also animals who are feeding themselves with grapes. Another indicator is the color of the seed, ripe grapes have brown seeds while green seeds tell you that grapes are not yet ready for the harvest.

Most of the winegrowers in addition to the obvious signs and their “instinct” also take into account measurements of sugar, and the acid of the grapes, as well as the pH of the grapes. Since this measurement differs from the variety and the micro-climate of the vineyard, each winegrower should know his ripe grapes optimal values. According to some literature, the optimal levels for red wines are Brix: 22, TA: 0,75, pH: 3,4; and for the white wines Brix: 20, TA: 0,7 and pH: 3,2.


Photo: Ripe Grapes

Mechanical or hand pick harvest

Even though several winegrowers tend to use the mechanics, there is still a number of doubts and questions about the best way for the grape harvest. Some prefer mechanical harvesting while others don’t want to hear about anything else but hand-picking. The advantage of the mechanical harvesting is in its low price. Harvester can pick up to 200 tons of grapes per day while one experienced human picker only somewhere between 1 and 2 tons. Therefore, it’s hard to imagine hand picking in huge vineyards. Before hand-pickers would end their job, half of the grapes would already shrivel, not to mention high labor costs. However, some wineries prefer hand picking since mechanical harvester can not distinguish between ripe, unripe and rotten bunches. In addition, the harvester can damage the grape skin and therefore the risk of oxidation and a loss of the aromatic qualities in the wine.

Mainly small, family owned wineries are deciding for hand picking, and also wineries who have vineyards in such terrain where is completely impossible to harvest mechanically. Also berries from botrytized bunches, for sweet wines, can not be picked in any other way than by hand. We collected some tips that are going to come in handy for small, hand-picking wineries when preparing for the harvest.

Top 5 tips to better-organized harvest

1. Check the weather forecast
When grapes are already well ripe, make sure to regularly check the forecast for you the exact location, so there will be no surprises on the last critical days before the harvest. Let eVineyard help you with that! Make sure to pick a beautiful sunny day for your harvesting, in case you choose to harvest on a daytime. What’s nicer than harvesting on a sunny day?

2. Call your help
Make sure to notify your friends about your harvest plan a week in advance so that you are not going to be left alone with all of the work. In return, prepare them a lunch and promise a fun day in the vineyard, that’s how you are going to join pleasant with usefulness. Day or two before the harvest confirm with your pickers so you will know how to organize the work in the vineyard on the D-day.

3. Check the Brix and pH
A day before the harvest makes sure that all (well, most) of the grapes are well ripe. Check for Brix and pH on several different locations in the vineyard for the last time before the harvest. We already mention that each winegrower should know optimal levels of Brix, TA, and pH of grapes; and determinate the general levels of sugar, pH, and acid for red and white wines.

4. Tidy vineyard
Tidy up your vineyard a day or two before the harvest. After that, picking will be more efficient since you and your friends are not going to walk on the dewy weeds, and they won’t be searching for the berries among them. The night before the harvest also removes the bird-net, in case you have it so that you can start with harvesting right in the morning.

5. Wash up and clean all of the equipment
Before the harvest, clean up your harvesting equipment such as buckets and clippers. Also don’t forget to clean and sanitize all of the winemaking equipment, so that grapes can go directly into the process of wine making. And after the harvest, clean all of the equipment properly, as well!

Above all, don’t take too hard on yourself – that supposed to be an exciting day (despite the fact that it’s going to be a long, long day). So have fun and drink something for easy work. After all, you have to empty your old stock for the new vintage to come

Happy harvest!


Photo: Grape pressing with feet

www.evineyardapp.com

How to protect grapes from diseases and pests? Description of grape diseases (photo) and methods for their treatment

Problems in growing grapes arise not only in beginning summer residents, but also in more experienced gardeners.

How to determine the disease, how to treat, what preventive measures to apply? These questions torment every grower.

Grapes are often affected by diseases and pests that reduce its yield and nutritional value.

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Pests of grapes: how to determine and how to treat

Insects often cause a lack of berries. There are so many pests in the bushes that the vineyard quickly loses its productivity. Among all insects, the most dangerous for grapes are highlighted:

Pests of grapes affect not only leaves, but also inflorescences, bark and buds. Illiterate care leads to a loss of 50% of the crop. In some cases, insects can completely destroy the plantation.

Grape Tick: Control Methods

Strongly weaken the vineyard variety of ticks that feed on the green parts of the plant, causing great harm. If measures to destroy ticks are not applied in time, the number of insects will grow, which leads to poor ripening of the vine, the number of crops is reduced, and the quality of the fruit suffers. In addition, ticks transmit diseases such as mildew and powdery mildew.

Pests overwinter on weeds and inside damaged buds. They begin their activities in early spring, but the peak of their activity occurs in the summer. The tick affects the buds and buds of the plant, they turn red and crumble.

It is difficult to notice a tick, but external signs appear on the leaves of the grapes. On the reverse side of the leaf, tubercles that are covered with a spider nap can be found. The stronger the lesion, the weaker the plant becomes, the processes of photosynthesis are disrupted, the leaves gradually dry out and curl up, fall off.

Arid weather contributes to the spread of insects in the summer, strong gusts of wind. In the fight against pests and diseases of grapes, modern drugs are used that help get rid of the invasion in a short time. Plant prevention begins in spring. Before budding, the vine is treated with a 2% DNOC solution. Then apply a solution of nitrophene.

Important! Since the pest settles on the back of the leaves, it is sprayed more thoroughly.

For chemical treatment of the bush, drugs are used that are not harmful to bees and humans:

Achieve a positive result is possible after two treatments. The interval between procedures should be up to 14 days.

Grape aphids: how to identify and defeat an insect

Grape aphids are a dangerous pest of shrubs. Because of its activities, not only productivity, but also the bush itself suffers. The affected plant becomes weak, its root system stops developing and in several seasons the bush completely dies. With this form of infection, grapes have to be uprooted. If only the leaves of the plant are damaged, then on the reverse side you can find galls, in which aphid eggs are located.

The main task of the gardener is to prevent the spread of aphids. For this, chemical preparations are used:

The first treatment is carried out after mass blooming of the buds, and the second after a few weeks, when there are 10-12 blossoming leaves on the bush.

Mealybugs, scale insects

These pests are sedentary, they stick to the vine, eating its juices. This leads to drying out of the shoots and a decrease in yield. In addition, fungi develop in the places where insects live, which lead to dangerous diseases of grapes.

Scabies settle on annual shoots. Insects winter under the bark, and in spring they come to the surface. Treatment for diseases and pests of grapes is carried out using spraying, which is done under high pressure. This will help the drug penetrate deep into the layering of the bark, which will destroy even wintering forms of pests. Spray the shrub in the spring, before budding.

Grape motley

Speckled butterfly is a dangerous pest that lays eggs on the leaves of a plant. Hatched caterpillars eat the green parts of the shoots, harm the kidneys, which die, without blooming. The pest lives for about a month, but the degree of development of the colony depends on the weather. At temperatures below +15 degrees, butterfly larvae die.

Vineyard spraying is carried out in several stages with an interval of 7-10 days. Use modern insecticides.

How to protect grapes from wasps

Wasps reduce crop yields and adversely affect brush quality. The primary task of the gardener is to protect the bush from wasps.

In the fight against pests only comprehensive measures help. For this, special baits are laid out near the vineyard, which are cleaned as they accumulate. In addition, when the brushes mature, they are covered with non-woven material. But the shelter is made spacious so as not to provoke the development of rot.

Common grape diseases: diagnosis and control methods

Among a large number of diseases of grapes, the most dangerous are identified, which lead to a decrease in yield and death of the bush:

Mildew (downy mildew of grapes)

Mildew is the most common grape disease among existing ones. It affects all parts of the plant, the spread of the disease contributes to increased humidity, cold ambient temperature. Also, mildew can begin with severe damage to the bush by pests.

A sign of the disease is the presence of a characteristic oil coating on the leaves, the reverse side of which is covered with powdery white spots. With the development of the disease at the site of the lesion, necrosis of leaf tissues increases, which leads to subsidence of the cover.

As a prevention of pests and diseases of grapes, phosphorus-potassium top dressing is carried out, which enhances the plant’s immunity. In addition, varieties resistant to mildew are grown on the site. At the first signs of the disease, spraying with drugs is carried out:

Processing takes place in three stages:

the first time the bush is treated before buds open;

the second — before flowering;

the third is when fruit sets.

Oidium

Affected plants noticeably lag behind in growth, their foliage is covered with a whitish bloom, slightly curly. In mid-summer, apical shoots are affected, the ovaries crumble, and the inflorescences die.

As a disease prevention experienced gardeners advise to planting a plant, harvesting weeds under a bush and garter shoots. In addition, spraying with drugs is done:

Gray rot

The disease occurs and spreads with high humidity in the cold summer. As a rule, already ripening grapes are affected. Affected berries acquire an uncharacteristic hue, crack. A grayish coating appears at the site of the outbreak.

Unfortunately, this disease is practically not treated. As a preventive measure, crop rationing, pinching and removing excess foliage are used. These methods increase the ventilation of the bushes, which reduces the risk of disease. At the first sign, the affected hands are cut off, and the bush is treated with a solution of baking soda.

Only high-quality care and timely treatment of grape bushes from diseases and pests will help maintain the health of the garden.

gh.ladiesliberty.org

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