Termite or Terminator? Ways to Spot Termite Lookalikes

Termite or Terminator? Ways to Spot Termite Lookalikes

There are few things as frustrating as having bugs treat your home like it’s theirs. Even worse is when they don’t just move in — they decide your house is their next meal. Hardwood floors, wooden furniture legs, structural foundations. Nothing is safe from the wood-loving insects we call termites.

While termite damage is fairly easy to identify, a termite infestation is much harder to diagnose when you are seeing bugs but no damage. If this scenario sounds familiar, it’s possible that the creepy crawlies you’re seeing around your home aren’t termites at all, but some relatively harmless impersonators. So don’t panic! We’re here to assuage your fears and help you spot the differences between a Real Deal Termite and a knock-off wannabe.

The Imposters

The insects most commonly confused for termites are flying ants. The most common species of ants to take flight around your house are carpenter ants, but they’re by no means the only ones. Other would-be imposters include moisture ants, black garden ants and pavement ants. Nearly every species of ant has breeding adults that grow wings and come out to mate —creating new nests and scaring the bejeezus out of you.

The Differences

It’s easy to tell the difference between ants and termites by identifying a few key visual differences.

Antennae: Termites have straight antennae, while ants have elbow-like antennae with a bend in the middle.

Color: All species of ants are generally dark in color, whereas termites are light, white or transparent.

Body shape: Termites’ bodies are made up of two sections — the head and the abdomen. Ants on the other hand are split into three segments, which gives them that old Hollywood, hourglass figure.

Wings: Both insects have four wings, but while ants have shorter back wings and longer front wings, termite flappers are all of equal length. Termite wings are also more veiny and opaque than those of their ant friends.

The Solution

They may not cause structural damage, but termite imposters are still a major nuisance. Even if they aren’t eating through your floors, having swarms of nasty looking critters buzz around your house is anything but pleasant. Arrow is here to help you deal with any pest problem, big or small, so call us today to ensure that the only beings living in your house are the ones you want to be there.

www.arrowexterminators.com

Flying Ants vs. Termites

Differences Between Ants and Termites

For many homeowners, the first obvious sign of termite infestation is a swarm of flying insects. However, not all swarming insects are termites – some are flying ants. Pest control experts are trained to distinguish between flying ants and termites based on a few physical characteristics.

Although ants and termites vary in many ways, it can be hard for people to distinguish between them at first glance. In order to identify either pest, it is crucial to know the differences between them.

What’s the Difference?

More information on ants

Appearance Differences

Termites have straight antennae and wide bodies without pinched waists. They are characteristically black or dark brown. Swarmers, or flying termites, have clear front and back wings that are the same length. More about what a termite looks like.

In contrast, ants have elbowed antennae and pinched waists. Their bodies can be black, brown, or reddish. Flying ants have two pairs of brown-tinted wings that differ in size.

Behavior Differences

Both ants and termites live in large colonies with designated caste systems. Termites can be found in decaying trees, stumps, wood debris, lumber, and the wooden members of a structure. Some ants, like carpenter ants, also inhabit wood and the wooden parts of structures. Termites can cause serious structural damage since they eat the wood, while carpenter ants do not eat wood and thus generally do not cause structural damage.

Diet Differences

The diets of these two pests differ, as ants are omnivores and termites feed on cellulose, which is a nutrient-rich material found in plants. Ants primarily eat nectar, seeds, other insects, and food debris found around and inside homes. On the other hand, termites consume mainly wood, paper, and other cellulose-based products.

Life Cycle Differences

Ants go through four stages of development: egg, larva, pupa, and adult. Worker ants live for a few months, while queens can live for years. In contrast, the termite life cycle includes egg, nymph (larvae), and adult phases. Most termites survive for a couple years, while termite queens may live for decades.

Both types of pests have similar reproductive cycles. During warm months, fertile winged ants and termites fly from their nests to mate and establish new colonies. In ant species, the male partners typically die after mating with the females. After termites mate, both male and female partners live on and continue to expand their new colonies. Both ants and termites lose their wings after mating.

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Termite Control

Learn the signs to look for to determine if you might have a termite infestation.

Termites cost Americans more than $5 billion in damage each year and most insurance plans don’t cover the damage.

We’ll determine whether you actually have termites, then discuss a treatment plan including financing that works for you.

Learn what to expect from your Orkin Man and the AIM process.

www.orkin.com

Termites vs Ants

Despite the fact that termites – particularly termites with wings – look an awful lot like ants, the two insect families are not closely related. Termites are actually cousins to cockroaches. This might surprise you, particularly since termite behavior and ant behavior in a colonial setting can be similar; both insect families participate in cooperative care of young insects, all have workers, all have soldiers, and all have reproductive. In truth, it really is a question of ants vs termites – these insects are sworn enemies and it’s up to soldier caste termites to prevent ants from invading. Let’s take a closer look at what separates termites from ants.

Ants vs termites

In Australia and some other places, worker termites are often referred to as white ants, because they do look quite a lot like ants when swarmed together. Worker termites typically have soft bodies with only two segments – a head and an abdomen – and like flying termites, their antenna extend in an unbroken line from the forehead, creating a “V” shape.

When it comes to soldier termites vs ants, the main differences are quite easy to spot. Soldier termites typically have light colored abdomens and dark colored heads with strong jaws and long, V-shaped antenna. Ants, on the other hand, are normally brown, black, red, or some combination of colors, and they possess triple-segmented bodies and less pronounced jaws.

Another way you can tell the difference between termites vs ants is in the way they travel. If you happen to see ants moving along as they go about their business, they typically travel in straight lines. They’re extremely orderly. Termites are the opposite; they move with no real rhyme or reason, and you just won’t see a line of soldier termites emerging from a colony to conduct tasks of any type. In fact, the only time termites intentionally leave the safety of their colonies is when they swarm in order to develop new colonies.

Flying ants vs termites

Flying ants vs termites – the two insects look quite a bit alike at a glance, but spend a couple of moments looking more closely, and you’ll see that these insects have many differences.

Flying termites have:

  • A pair of straight antennae that make a “V” shape from the front of the head
  • Two pairs of wings, each pair being of equal length
  • Straight bodies with no delineated “waist”
  • Two body segments instead of three

Flying ants have

  • A pair of bent antenna that form a rough “U” shape from the front of the head
  • Two pairs of wings, with the front pair being longer than the back
  • Nipped waists with large abdomens to the rear
  • Three body segments instead of two

It’s fairly common to encounter flying ants at any time, as long as the weather is warm enough for them to emerge from their nests. There are many different flying ant species and all look different in terms of size and color, but they all share these same characteristics.

The only time you’re going to encounter flying termites is during mating season, which varies from one termite species to the next. To learn more about this behavior, be sure to spend a moment reading our articles on drywood termites, Formosan termites, and subterranean termites. Armed with the information you receive, you’ll be able to tell the difference between flying termites vs ants with ease, plus you will be able to determine what to do next if you think you may be dealing with a termite infestation.

Notice the distinct body shape differences between the termite (left) and ant (right).

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I need to find out what is biting me! I have small red bites all over me since I moved in my new apt. They are not really raised they have a hole in the center. I have had it professionally exterminated twice! I can’t find anything. No bed bugs.. No fleas!! I can’t see anything! I have no animals but there are a few stray cats around the property. Also, my apt has brand new carpets! I found a few bugs on the window sills that look like baby flying ants. Please help if you can. I have pics of what I did find. I have an infant and a toddler in the home so I really need to get to the bottom of this. If anyone can help please respond. Thank you!

www.stopthefleas.com

Making Sure They Are Actually Termites

  • Termites have a thick waist
  • Termites have straight antennae
  • Termites have shorter legs
  • When wings are present, both pairs of wings will be the same length on a termite
  • Ants have noticeable waists
  • Ants have clubbed or bent antennae
  • Ants have longer legs
  • When wings are present, the front wings will be longer than the back wings on ants

Once you have determined you are indeed dealing with termites you will need to find out if you have subterranean termites or drywood termites because a subterranean termite treatment is quite different than a drywood termite treatment. If you have determined that you actually are in fact dealing with ant infestation, please visit our Ant Control Guide.

  • Subterranean termites have the main portion of their nest underground
  • Subterranean termites make mud tubes to access structures
  • Subterranean termites usually have large colonies
  • Subterranean termites do not kick out feces and debris
  • Subterranean termites typically eat along the grain of the wood
  • Subterranean termites are known to make “carton” nests in wall voids and in trees. A carton is a nest made from the termite fecal matter to maintain the correct moisture level when the termites are unable to return to the actual subterranean nest.
  • Drywood Termites do not require soil contact
  • Drywood Termites nest inside of the wood they are infesting
  • Drywood Termites do not make mudtubes
  • Drywood Termites fly into infest wood
  • Drywood Termites make small “kickout” holes in wood to push feces and debris out of the nest
  • Drywood Termites leave small piles of debris outside of the infested wood
  • Drywood Termites usually eat across and along the grain of the wood
  • Drywood Termites are usually found in coastal regions but they can be transported in infested wood

If you have determined that you actually are in fact dealing with a drywood termite infestation, please visit our Drywood Termite Control Guide.

www.domyown.com

Professional Flea Treatment

Fleas and silverfish are of the most pesky pests to infest your home. Not only are they small and hard to trace, but they drastically damage the contents and enjoy ability of your home.Who wants to have fleas jumping all over them and biting them? You definitely wouldn’t want your kids or your guests having to go through that every time that they visit. Silverfish are just as bad, eating away at your clothes, bed materials and valuables. If you’ve got an infestation of fleas or silverfish, call the team at Termite Tech for an inspection.

Flea Treatment for every property

Every property is unique, and has unique entry points, and attractiveness to pets, including silverfish and fleas. For someone new or inexperienced in silverfish and flea treatment, starting the process to the extermination of fleas and silverfish can be daunting.

The first part of every service carried out by Termite Tech is an inspection. It is in this inspection that our team of qualified professionals visit your property and assess its unique needs for pest control and flea treatment.

Our team will identify exactly where the concentration of silverfish and fleas are, how they got there, and recommend further extermination services should they be required.

With any silverfish or flea treatment, Termite Tech will equip property owners with the appropriate education they need to keep fleas and silverfish away.

Our Flea Treatment is Guaranteed

We stand by our work. That’s why we’ll check up on our treatment and services annually, to ensure that your property is still enjoying the absence of fleas and silverfish since our team was last there for flea treatment.

All of our products and equipment used through the duration of the flea treatment are people, pet and environmentally safe, and leave your property mess, smell and flea-free.

termitetech.com.au

Termites vs fleas

Are Fleas Harmful to Humans?

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Are Fleas Harmful to Humans?

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Your pets are vital to a flea’s survival. Once they attach to the skin, they are inseparable and will start reproducing, inevitably causing a flea infestation in your home. Any pet owner knows that fleas are the enemy, and knowing the enemy is the best way to control and prevent them.

Facts About Fleas

Fleas are wingless insects that get to their hosts by jumping – they can jump approximately 970 feet. There are over 2,000 species of fleas, and in the U.S., the cat flea is responsible for nearly all of the fleas found on both cats and dogs. A female flea can consume 15 times its body weight in blood on a daily basis, laying eggs within 35 to 48 hours after its first meal.

Flea eggs are usually laid directly on a host, often falling off the host’s body, spreading the infestation to the surrounding environment. The average flea will have a 2 to 3 month lifespan.

Most adult fleas are visible to the human eye, but that doesn’t mean they can’t hide. They enjoy living in carpets, bedding, cracks in floors or other hard to reach areas. Fleas also live outside in weeds, grass and side walks, making it easy for them to hop right onto you or your pet during a daily walk.

They can live for about a month without feeding on your pet by surviving on dirt, debris and body waste. However, once a flea has found its host, it can migrate from pet to human.

Flea Warning Signs

Pets
Some typical warning signs for pets:
• Excessive licking to a certain area could mean to soothe a flea bite
• Scratching or rubbing excessively against objects to relieve itching
• Scabs or bumps on your pet’s back or neck could determine an allergic reaction to fleas, commonly called flea allergy dermatitis

Humans
• Raised, red, itchy bumps around the legs and feet
• Allergic reactions in some people, causing skin irritation

If your pet is showing warning signs, consult your veterinarian to discuss treatment options. Specially formulated shampoos and topicals are available that help control and prevent fleas. Applying a once a month topical or oral flea treatment on your pet will not only kill the fleas, but also prevent a possible re-infestation from occurring. At home, use cold water to alleviate any itching.

If you are the victim of a flea bite, wash the area, apply an antiseptic and ice pack to alleviate itching and prevent scratching. Consult a pharmacist for more treatment options such as lotions and antihistamines for possible allergic reactions. If the bites excrete puss, contact your doctor immediately.

Prevention

Keep all of your pet’s favorite areas in your house and yard clean and free of debris. Vacuum and mop on a regular basis to clear out any fleas living in carpets or floor cracks. Be sure to frequently wash or change your pet’s bedding as fleas enjoy living and feeding on pets while the rest.

A bite is just one sign of a flea infestation. Contact your local extermination and pest control to discuss options to ensure eradication.

www.arrowtermiteandpestcontrol.com

Insects in the City

The best in science-based, pest management solutions from Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service

Frequently Asked Questions About Subterranean Termite Control

Ant swarmers are distinguished from termites by their pinched waists and elbowed antennae. Swarmers may or may not have wings.

IN THIS FACTSHEET

As one of your biggest financial investments, protecting your home should be a high priority. Termites cost Texas homeowners hundreds of millions of dollars each year. Everyone who owns a home owes it to themselves to be able to recognize a termite problem and know what to do about it. This publication provides answers to the most commonly asked questions about termites and termite control.

Q. What are these black, winged insects in my home?

A. Adult reproductive termites are dark-brown to blackish insects, about 3/8 inch-long. Commonly referred to as “swarmers”, the job of reproductive termites is to mate and start new colonies. Termite swarmers may or may not have wings, as their wings often are shed shortly after flight. Swarming termites are often confused with ants but can be distinguished by two simple characters. Termites lack the “pinched” waist of ants. Also, termite wings are equal in length, compared to ants that have distinctly longer front wings. Although termite swarmers can, occasionally, enter homes through open doors or windows, finding termite swarmers indoors is a reliable signal of infestation. Termite swarms can occur throughout the year, but are most commonly seen between the months of February and May in Texas.

Q. I just found termites in my yard. Does my house need to be treated?

A. Not necessarily. In Texas, termites abound in the soil wherever wood is to be found. Most yards, especially those in older, established neighborhoods, support termites. While termites are more abundant in some locations, chances are good that your yard has termites. Finding termites in a fence or woodpile, or in landscape timbers, does not necessarily mean that your home needs to be treated, but it should alert you to the presence of termites around your home.

Hollow tubes constructed from soil, climbing up a foundation is a sign of termite activity.

Should you find termites in your yard, a few simple steps can help reduce your risk of becoming infested. First, familiarize yourself with what termites look like so that if you notice swarms of any unusual indoor insects, you will know whether your house should be inspected. Second, examine the foundation of your home to see whether mud shelter tubes are present that might indicate termite activity. Termite shelter tubes are hollow soil tunnels extending from the soil to your house, and provide runways for termites to travel between their underground nest and their food supply (your home). If you find any suspicious mud structures, leave at least part of the material in place for a professional termite inspector to examine. Finally, keep soil and debris, such as stacked wood, away from the foundation of your home. This reduces the chance of termite entry and makes it easier to inspect your home for termite signs.

If you suspect termites, it’s a good idea to have a professional inspect your home. Termite inspections are often free, unless you need a formal report for use in a real estate transaction.

Q. Can I treat my home myself?

A. Because of the specialized equipment and chemicals needed to effectively and safely treat your home, it’s nearly always best to hire a professional. Do-it-yourself termite control chemicals are commonly sold through feed, hardware, and nursery supply stores. For spot treatments, in a very limited area, these products may be as effective as some professional products; however it takes a professional to thoroughly treat a home. Do-it-yourself termite control projects should be limited to smaller, less valuable structures such as sheds, fence post, decks and wood piles.

Q. How dangerous are these termite control chemicals?

A. All pesticides should be considered potentially dangerous; however, when used properly, termite control products (termiticides) can be applied quite safely. Your chance of being exposed to trace amounts of pesticide after a termite treatment is low–less than the exposure risk following a spray treatment for cockroaches or fleas. This is because a termite treatment is generally directed into the soil under and around the home, rather than to indoor portions of the house. As an added precaution, children and pregnant women should plan to leave the home during an application and the home aired out for 1-2 hours following treatment. If these precautions are followed, risks are minimal and you should notice no unusual odors.

Although toxicity does vary slightly among commercial termiticide formulations, in practice there is little difference in consumer safety among the different termiticides when used properly.

Q. Each company tells us that the termiticide they use is best. How do I know what to believe?

A. Most termite control professionals develop a preference for one or more termiticides based on their experiences with that product. Because product performance can vary from one locality and soil type to another, these preferences may be quite valid. Ask salespersons to justify their choice of a product. Inquire about how long that product has been used by the company.

Tests conducted by Texas A&M University at five sites throughout the state over the past 20 years show that all currently registered termiticides have a life expectancy of from four to ten years. Non-repellent type termiticides (fipronil, imidacloprid, chlorfenpyr) appear to work better (especially in Texas’ alkaline, heavy clay soils) compared to termiticides that are repellent to termites (e.g., permethrin, cypermethrin, bifenthrin). It’s generally better to choose a company based on its service, reputation and warranty, rather than which termiticide it uses. Also, most termite control companies will give you a product choice, should you request it.

Regardless of the product used, the highest permitted application rate is generally best and will last longest. This may cost slightly more, but research shows that higher rates result in the best performance over the life of your termite warranty.

Q. Does my whole house need to be treated? I’ve been told that a partial treatment will be much cheaper.

A. “Spot” or partial treatments for termites can be very attractive because of their lower cost. Whether this is a good idea depends on many factors including future plans for the house, your willingness to take risks and the size of your pocketbook. Spot treatments can be done successfully; however, it’s important to know that termites frequently enter structures at points far removed from the site where they are discovered. Spot treatments frequently come with limited warranties, which may require you to pay for additional treatments should termites reappear in another part of your home. Compared to a spot treatments with a limited warranty, a complete treatment may be a better value. New home buyers, in particular, should be wary of purchasing a home that has recently been spot-treated for termites. A few termiticides on the market use a form of treatment that involves “perimeter only” applications, or perimeter treatments plus spot treatments at suspected activity points inside the structure. Perimeter-only applications should only be done using non-repellent termiticides and only when the label specifically permits this use.

Q. I’m confused. One company uses baits and one company uses liquid insecticides applied under my house. Which is better?

A. This is the most common question we receive about termite control. Unfortunately there is no simple answer. Both techniques have advantages. Unlike conventional liquid termiticides, which provide a chemical barrier to termites, baits are designed to suppress or elimininate the termite colonies. Baits incorporate a slow-acting toxicant or growth regulator into a suitable termite food. The toxicants in baits are delivered to the colony by foraging worker termites, who share their food with other colony members.

Because of their precise delivery system and the small amounts of actual pesticide used, termite baiting systems are generally perceived as the “safest” of the available termite treatment methods. Drawbacks of baiting systems may include a higher price (this is changing with the advent of stations requiring fewer maintenance visits), the delay between installation and termite feeding on baits (not easy to predict how long it will take for termites to begin feeding on a bait, once installed), and the lack of ongoing termite protection once the baiting service contract is ended. Nevertheless, termite baiting systems are being used successfully to eliminate long-standing termite problems in many homes. Pest control companies report a generally high level of satisfaction among their bait-system customers.

Baiting systems have a proven track record of success and continue to evolve. It is important to remember, though, that colonies eliminated by baits are quickly replaced by new termite colonies in your yard. Therefore, continued baiting is needed to provide ongoing protection.

Liquid insecticides in the soil, applied by a reliable company, provide fast, and usually reliable termite control. The newer, non-repellent termiticides have very high success rates at eliminating termite feeding in a home, even if every potential termite entry point cannot be treated. Another advantage is that soil-applied termiticides persist five years or more in the soil, meaning that there is no need for ongoing maintenance to maintain the protection for your home. While some companies offer extended warranties and/or annual inspections, your protection does not go away if you opt not to continue the contract.

Historically soil-applied insecticides have been less expensive that baiting systems. This may or may not be true for your home. Compare quotes and consider long-term maintenance costs and warranties when deciding on the most economical treatment for your home.

If you are looking for the “greenest” termite control approach (one which uses the least, or least toxic pesticides), or if your home has proved difficult to treat using standard methods, bait provide a good alternative. Many companies today use a combination of baiting systems and “spot” or partial treatments as part of an integrated termite management system.

Q. I’ve recently seen my local hardware store selling a do-it-yourself termite bait. Can I save money by baiting my home myself?

A. While do-it-yourself baiting may sound like a good way to save money, these systems have not been well tested and may be more expensive than they first appear. Cardboard used in most do-it-yourself bait stations tends to decay and decompose quickly in the soil, and should be replaced every 3-4 months. This often makes do-it-yourself baiting systems as expensive as professional systems. Tests at Texas A&M University have been unable to demonstrate successful control with do-it-yourself products. Keep in mind that, should a do-it-yourself treatment not work, a money-back guarantee will not cover the costs of expensive repairs due to termite damage. If you have a confirmed termite problem, it’s best to seek help from a professional termite control company.

Q. How do these termite detector stakes work that are offered by my pest control company?

A. Occasionally pest control companies offer special termite monitoring stations as part of their pest control service. These stations differ from bait stations as they contain no insecticides and provide no termite control. Rather, these devices work by providing an electronic signal or a mechanical pop-up tab to indicate when termites have fed upon the monitoring station. Although these stations provide a clever way to “see” termite activity in your landscape, a positive “hit” to the station should not be interpreted to mean that your home requires treatment. Most urban landscapes have termites living in the soil, but not all homes become infested. If your pest control company points out that you have termite activity near your home, you may want to request an inspection and ask them to point out any risk factors you might be able to correct to reduce your chances of getting termites.

Q. What about non-chemical and “organic” controls for termites?

A. Several non-chemical and “organic” treatments are sometimes promoted for termite control. These include the use of nematodes and fungi, sand barriers, orange oil and “borate” sprays. “Beneficial nematodes” are microscopic worms that feed on a variety of insects, including termites. Nematodes have not proved effective in treating termites in actual structures and cannot be recommended.

Sand barriers are layers of uniform sized particles (2-2.8 mm diameter) that are difficult for termites to penetrate. Sand barriers should be at least 3-6 inches deep and 20 inches wide. They are placed around foundation walls and in bath traps and other slab openings. Sand barriers are not commonly used in Texas because they are too easily disturbed around the outside perimeters of slab-constructed homes. They are more likely to be effective under homes with crawl spaces where the soil is not likely to be disturbed.

Orange oil sprays have not been demonstrated to provide termite control in structures.

Borate sprays are based on the use of boron compounds, similar to boric acid. Borate salts are water soluble and are relatively low in toxicity. Treated wood effectively prevents termite feeding and many forms of wood decay. The most effective application method is to spray or immerse structural wood with a borate solution prior to, or during, construction. Treating existing homes with borate sprays applied to wall voids or exposed wood provides only partial protection from termites and wood decay, because of the difficulty in obtaining a complete treatment. Applying borate dusts to attics for termites provides no protection from subterranean termite attack.

Recently stainless steel mesh barriers have become available for preventing termite entry into homes. These products are generally available for installation at the time the house is constructed and should provide excellent termite protection if installed correctly.

Q. How important is the warranty?

A. The warranty is one of the most important parts of your termite contract. The warranty spells out the conditions and time limits under which the company will assume responsibility for continued termite activity. You should compare the warranties offered by different companies carefully. In addition to the standard one-year warranty, you should be offered the chance to extended your warranty for one or more years. Annual warranty renewals should not exceed 20% of the original treatment cost. Extended warranties are a good idea, at least for the first one to two years after treatment, or for at least one year since termites activity was last detected.

Q. Do I need a warranty that covers Formosan termites?

A. The most common termite pest species in Texas are subterranean termites in the genus Reticulitermes. Another termite species, the Formosan termite, Coptotermes formosanus, is a foreign pest that has become established in California, Hawaii, and parts of the southern U.S. including some areas of Texas. This species is more destructive than our native termites. Unless you happen to live in one of the few communities along the upper Texas Gulf coast where Formosan termites are established, there is little need to purchase a pest control contract solely because it includes coverage for this species. The few isolated cases where Formosan termites have been detected in central and north-central Texas appear to be related to use of recycled railroad ties used as landscape timbers. If you are aware of one of these infestations in your immediate neighborhood, discuss your options with your pest control inspector prior to purchasing a contract. For most homeowners warranties for Formosan termites are usually unecessary. To find out whether the Formosan termite is a problem in your area, contact your county Extension office.

For more information

For more information about termite identification, biology and control refer to Extension fact sheet E-368, Subterranean Termites. For specific suggestions on how to choose a termite control company, refer to Extension publication E-369, How to Select a Termite Control Service. These publications, and help with additional questions about termites or other pest problems, can be obtained by contacting your county Extension office.

citybugs.tamu.edu

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