Noises in Your Attic or Loft? A Sign of Pests, Rentokil

Noises in the Attic

Noises in the attic are worrying and can be an indication that rodents or other wildlife may be living in your roof.

Attics (lofts) are ideal environments for squirrels and rodents, who damage stored items by gnawing and possibly cause fire hazards by chewing electric cabling. Noises should be investigated quickly, nests and droppings become ideal breeding sites for insects, which may then carry nasty bugs and diseases into your home.

Inspect your attic and look closely for visible signs of habitation, commonly their droppings, signs of nesting and possible damage caused by gnawing.

Rat Signs

Sounds — Scratching and Crawling.

Dropping — Brown Rat — blunt, spindle — shaped, 1 ½ to 2cm. Black Rat — pointed, 1 ½ cm long.

Mice Signs

Sounds — Scratching and Gnawing.

Dropping — Thin, spindle — shaped (pointed ends), about ½ cm long

Bird Signs

Sounds — Vocals and Flapping

Dropping — Pigeons and other birds in the attic create mess, health risks and noise.

Squirrels — Sounds — Vocals and Scratching — Droppings — Similar to Brown Rat Droppings, rounder, 1½ to 2cms. Read more »

Bat — Sounds — Sharp vocals at night — Droppings — dark brown or black, 4-8mm long, crumble into a fine powder when crushed. Read More >>

Wasps & Flies — Sounds — buzzing — Signs — visible sighting of insects or masses of insect bodies in the window fixtures or floor cavities. Read More >>

Rats in The Attic

It is extremely serious if rats get into your home, even if not in a living area. Any rat problem inside the home must be treated urgently. Rentokil offers a wide range of highly effective DIY rat control products, as well as the services of our BPCA certified technicians.

Proofing your loft space is an effective way of preventing entry, but the rodent infestation must be treated effectively first.

Call Rentokil today for safe and effective treatment for rats.

How to get rid of rats?

Discovering you have rats is distressing, but the quickest & most effective way to get rid of rats is by expert, targeted treatments.

Get Rid of Mice in The Attic

Mice in your loft need to be treated quickly, to avoid an infestation taking hold. Initial defence is to proof your attic against their entry. We have a very effective, professional service for controlling mice.

Learn more about how to spot the signs of mice and how DIY and professional mouse control in your home can best eliminate their presence .

Call Rentokil today for safe and effective treatment for mice.

How To Get rid of mice

Quickest & most effective way to get rid of mice is by expert, targeted treatments.

How to Get Rid of Birds in The Attic

Pigeons or other birds in your attic will create mess, health risks and annoying noises. Removing birds from your property during the breeding season can be an issue as they are protected. All wild bird species (including their nests and eggs) are protected by law in the UK by the Wildlife and Countryside Act (1981). Preventative measures like blocking entry points, using chicken wire or a solid barrier should be done outside of nesting times. It is possible to proof the exterior of your building from pigeons, gulls and other birds using spikes, wire systems or bird netting.

Rentokil are experts in all forms of bird control, so if you would like further advice or would like to arrange a visit from a Rentokil surveyor.

Call Rentokil today for safe and effective deterrents for birds.

How To Get Rid of Birds

Pigeons and Seagulls are normally the worst culprits, especially in towns and cities.

How To Get Rid of Wasps in The Attic

Wasps in the attic create mess, they are difficult to get rid of without professional help and can be incredibly dangerous if you are sensitive to stings. Wasps are a common infestation for spring and summer seasons. An attic can provide the perfect location to establish a nest or even multiple nests. To get rid of wasps you do ‘not’ need to remove the nest, but you do need to effectively treat it and the nesting wasps.

Rentokil are experts in all forms of wasp removal, so if you would like further advice or would like to arrange a visit from a Rentokil technician.

Call Rentokil today for safe and effective treatments for wasps.

How to Treat a Wasp Nest

Wasp nests can be dangerous to handle. Rely on professional treatments to keep safe from stings.

Fly Infestation in Your Attic

Attic Flies are a species more commonly known as cluster flies. However, there are a number of species of flies that can roost in your attic. Flies in your attic can cause a significant degree of damage to your home, especially if you are finding maggots in the attic.

It is possible to get rid of certian infestations just by following a few DIY cleaning tips, as well as using some DIY fly products. Certain species of flies are very hard to get rid of and can require professional treatment. Establishing the type of fly spieces causing the problem is key to identifying the most appropriate and effective treatment method.

Call Rentokil today for safe and effective treatment for flies.

Getting Rid of Flies

If you know you have a problem with flies in your home, there are ways you can get rid of them quickly.

Insect Infestation in Your Attic

An insect infestation is most likely to be caused by attraction to food, textiles or wood stored in your loft, or they may be living off the droppings of other pests in your attic such as rats, mice, birds or squirrels. Deep cleaning and the use of amateur insecticides for DIY use will help to keep insects under control, but you may require professional treatment to completely eradicate the infestation by stopping the life-cycle. Rentokil has extensive experience in eliminating insect infestations, so you can be sure we have the right solution for you.

Find out more on how to deal with particular insects you may find in your loft:

✔ Moths and their caterpillars attacking clothes and fabrics

✔ Woodworm boring into timbers and wooden items

✔ Other Insects and creepy crawlies

Get Rid of Insects in Your Attic

Find out more on problems insects cause.

Get Rid of Squirrels in The Attic

Squirrels can cause significant damage by gnawing on wood and electrical cables. Squirrels can be removed by catching them in traps. It is possible to use DIY traps, although great care needs to be taken when handling cages with live squirrels, as they are likely to bite and scratch. Our BPCA certified technicians are trained to remove squirrels.

See also:  Mint Leaf Beetles - Chrysolina herbacea - Chrysolina menthastri - UK Safari

It is an offence to release grey squirrels back into the wild, once caught in a cage, they must be destroyed humanely. In contrast, red squirrels must be released into the wild. Professional treatment of grey squirrels may use mechanical traps or baiting. These are effective methods, applied by appropriately trained and qualified technicians.

It is essential to proof your home against squirrels to stop them re-inhabiting. This may include cutting back branches and vegetation overhanging your property, to prevent access. If you would like further advice about squirrels or if you would like to arrange a visit from a Rentokil technician, call us.

Bats in The Attic

Bats are protected, endangered species and it is an offence to try to kill or remove bats or to change or block their roosts. Even if bats have left your attic, it is an offence to block the roost — bats return to the same place every year, so empty bat roosts are protected.

If you are aware that bats are roosting in your attic, you should consult with the Bat Conservation Trust before carrying out remedial timber treatments, insect control or rodent control that may cause them harm.

Identifying Pests by Sounds

Scratching Sounds — Scratching and gnawing sounds may indicate a rodent type animal such as a mouse, rat or squirrel.

Flapping — Flapping sounds can indicate birds have nested in your attic, birds will be most active in early morning. Bird can cause heavy damage to your property and must be swiftly dealt with.

Vocals — Shrill squeaks and vocals can indicate rats or mice, sharper ‘shrieks’ can be more serious and indicate infestation.

Buzzing Sounds — A distinct buzzing sound will indicate a wasp or flying insect infestation. Flying insects nest and carry disease, they will not go away permanently unless treated professionally.

Contacting Us

Swift, discreet, effective and expert pest control, when you need it. Please complete the quick form below and one of our experts will get back to you, about your pest issue as soon as we can. We will never share your information with third parties.

www.rentokil.co.uk

How to Get Rid of Rats in the House

I built this website as a resource for people who want to get rid of a rat problem in a house. It’s loaded with information, and if you have rats in the architecture, like in the attic or walls, your best bet is to just go to the home page, and read the information there. The principles for getting rats out of the attic are the same as for any part of the home. The only exception is if the rats are actually in the living area of the house — such as the living room, bathroom, kitchen, etc.

If you actually have rats inside the living area of the house, that’s a problem! It’s even worse than if they are living in the attic or walls, because inside the house itself, with people, they can spread disease, chew on your food, contaminate your food or property, chew on wires, chew on anything, basically. It’s extremely unlikely that they would attack anyone, such as a sleeping baby, because rats are cowards, and they want to be left alone. But when everyone is in bed, yes, they can come out and mess with your stuff.

THE MOST IMPORTANT THING — FIND OUT HOW THEY ARE GETTING INTO THE HOUSE

To solve a problem with rats in the house, you’ve got to find out how they got inside. In the below photo, we see some examples of areas that rats have used to gain access to the house from the outside.

But what about how they are getting into the living space? Well, same thing — there are some openings that lead into the house. The power supply for the stove, which has a wire that goes into a wall and right up the wall into the attic is a good bet. I see lots of rats getting into the kitchen that way. Or maybe behind the washer/dryer? There could be several spots. Do a thorough hunt, and seal off any open areas with metal flashing, such as you see in the below photograph.

If you’ve got rats coming through the toilet then make sure that there are no breaches in your plumbing pipes, and that the water traps are full. Read here about rats in the sewer.

Killing rats in the house — Rats in the main are of a home are disturbing because they are in plain sight and are sharing your living space more intimately than a rat up in your attic. Rats are not particularly persnickety creatures and will live just about anywhere they feel is advantageous to finding food. If you have rats living in your home, make sure you eliminate access to anything that may be considered a food source for them. Exposed trash and unsealed food will only promote growth in the rat population no matter what your lethal trapping methods are. Not only do you need to eliminate the food source, you also need to eliminate access from the outside. Rats are ingenious when it comes to home invasion. They can enter in through pipes and drains; they do not necessarily need a hole in the foundation. Killing the rats once they are inside can be a challenge. Rats are smart and survive by being industrious. Trapping will mean knowing where to place the traps and what to avoid using. For rodents living in the main areas of the home—actually for rodents anywhere in the home—do not use poison. Any poisoned animals will crawl into a dark space somewhere in the home and die. This almost never happens in a convenient location. Bodies in the walls are even more difficult to remove than live rats! The best rat control comes from snap traps, not poison.

www.attic-rat.com

Getting Rid of Rodents (Rats and Mice)

Although there are more than 20 types of rodents in British Columbia, only 3 cause common domestic or farmyard problems. This includes the:

  • house mouse;
  • Norway rat; and
  • black rat (roof rat).

What harm can rodents cause?

Rats and mice can cause significant property damage because they chew or gnaw on building insulation, siding, wallboard and wires. They eat a variety of foods, including food you might have stored in your cupboards or pantry. If you eat food that has been contaminated by rodents, your may get a foodborne illness. In some cases, diseases can be spread if you are bitten by a rodent, or if you are exposed to areas that are contaminated by rodent urine or droppings.

Hantavirus Pulmonary Syndrome (HPS) has been associated with the inhalation of dried droppings from the wild deer mouse. HPS has not been associated with the more common indoor mice. For more information see HealthLinkBC File #36 Hantavirus Pulmonary Syndrome. Ticks and fleas carried by rodents can also spread diseases. For more information on tick bites, see HealthLinkBC File #01 Tick Bites and Disease.

Is it easy to find rodents?

Rats and mice are easy to detect and leave plenty of evidence. From chewing through a cereal box to feeding on fruit left on the counter, they can leave a mess. There may be mouse nesting material inside the house or rat burrows in the soil outside. Dark brown droppings where rodents eat and travel are a sure sign of infestation. When your house is quiet, it is possible to hear rodents moving around (running between walls, in attics and under foundations) or even chewing.

How can I get rid of rodents?

Rats and mice have babies often, so it is important to find and get rid of them quickly and efficiently. Even if you do not see an actual rodent, the size and shape of the droppings can tell you if it is a mouse or rat. It is important to know what pest you are trying to get rid of as there are different control methods for the different rodents. Mouse droppings are approximately 6 mm (1/4 inch) long and oval shaped. Roof rat droppings are about 13 mm (1/2 inch) long with pointed ends and Norway rat droppings are about 19mm (3/4 inch) long with blunt ends.

See also:  Treatments for Bedbug Bites Itching and Inflammation

The best way to get rid of rats or mice is by using traps. If using spring loaded traps for rats, bait three of them in a row without setting them. Bait with dried fruit, peanut butter mixed with oats, or cheese. Set the traps at ‘right angles’ (90 degrees) to the walls where the rodents are known to travel, with the bait side of the trap toward the wall. When the rodents get use to feeding, set the traps. Make sure the bait is securely attached to the trip pedal so the trap springs when the food is removed.

Once you capture a rodent, make sure not to touch it with your bare hands. Wear gloves when handling a dead rodent and the trap. Double bag the dead rat or mouse, seal the bags, and then bury, burn, or place the bags in the trash, according to local by-laws. The trap can be reset if gloves are worn.

How can I prevent rodents from living on my property?

There are steps you can take to prevent rodents on your property.

1. Eliminate food and water sources:

  • Keep all garbage in pest proof containers with tight fitting lids.
  • Follow good composting practices for rodent control.
    • Do not throw food scraps into backyard compost without covering them.
    • Use lime.
    • Rotate compost.
    • Have a pest proof compost container.
  • Remove fallen fruit and nuts from your yard.
  • Remove pet food right after feeding and do not leave it outside overnight.
  • Clean out waste and food from pet pens and enclosures.
  • Equip bird feeders with trays and clean spilled seeds often.
  • Repair any plumbing leaks to remove a water source.
  • Cover pools and whirlpools when not in use.

2. Eliminate hiding and living places:

  • Keep building perimeters clear of plantings, stored lumber or junk.
  • Trim plants near buildings so that 15 to 20 cm (6 to 8 inches) above ground is clear. Trim branches of trees or shrubs to prevent access to roofs or balconies.
  • Remove unused piles of lumber and old sheds.
  • Do not store old cars or furniture outside.
  • Store lumber and firewood on stands 30 cm to 45 cm (12 to 18 inches) off the ground.

3. Pest proof buildings:

  • Cover crawl spaces, fresh air and attic vents with 6mm (1/4 inch) metal screening or steel mesh.
  • Seal any possible entry points in the building exterior that are greater than 6mm (1/4 inch). Pay close attention to door jams and gaps between the siding and the house foundation. If you have roof rats don’t forget to check for holes in areas of the roof.
  • Repair cracks in cement footings and foundations.
  • Build sheds on concrete slabs.

Can I use poison to get rid of rodents?

It is not a good idea to use poison or baits to control rodents. Poisoned rodents can crawl away and die, and their bodies can be hard to find and result in unpleasant odors. Poisons can also accidentally harm pets, wild animals, or even children.

Ultrasound repellers, although effective at first, are expensive and do not have long-term success at eliminating rodents.

If after taking preventive measures, a rat problem still exists on your property and you want to try rat poison, there are certain things you should consider:

  • Set out non-poisoned food for a few days prior to baiting, so the rodent starts feeding in the area.
  • Read and follow the directions on the label carefully.
  • Set bait in areas where there is no access to children or pets.
  • Remove dead rodents and all baits once pest control has been completed.

If you are unable to control rodents on your own, contact a licensed company with certified staff to help you.

How can I clean up areas where rodents have been?

Prevent stirring up dust when you are cleaning areas where mice have lived. This includes ventilating any enclosed area for 30 minutes and wetting down the area with household disinfectant before you start. Most general purpose disinfectants and household detergents are effective. A mixture of 1 part bleach and 10 parts water can also be used. Pour mixture carefully onto the area to avoid disturbing any virus present—do not use a sprayer.

Wipe up droppings, nesting materials and other waste with a paper towel and place in a plastic garbage bag. Do not sweep or vacuum.

Double bag the contents, seal the bags, and then bury, burn, or place the bags in the trash, according to local by-laws.

Clean floors, carpets, clothing and bedding, and disinfect counter-tops, cabinets and drawers that have been in contact with mice.

Wash rubber gloves with disinfectant or soap and water before removing them. Wash your hands with soap and water after removing gloves.

During clean-up, make sure to wear an appropriate, well-fitting filter mask, rubber gloves and goggles. For more information on appropriate masks contact your local public health unit or environmental health officer.

For more information

For more information, visit Government of British Columbia – Rodents at http://www2.gov.bc.ca/gov/content/environment/pesticides-pest-management/managing-pests/animals/rodents, or contact your local environmental health officer.

Want More Information?

HealthLink BC, your provincial health line, is as close as your phone or the web any time of the day or night, every day of the year.

Call 8-1-1 toll-free in B.C., or for the deaf and hard of hearing, call 7-1-1 or for Video Relay Service, call 604-215-5101.

You can speak with a health service navigator, who can also connect you with a:

  • registered nurse any time, every day of the year
  • registered dietitian from 9am to 5pm PT, Monday to Friday
  • qualified exercise professional from 9am to 5pm PT, Monday to Friday
  • pharmacist from 5pm to 9am PT, every day of the year

Translation services are available in more than 130 languages.

8-1-1 in 130 Languages

When you dial 8-1-1 (or 7-1-1 for the deaf and hard of hearing), you can request health information services in languages other than English.

Translation services are available in over 130 languages.

After dialing 8-1-1, you will be connected with an English speaking health service navigator. To get service in another language, simply state the language you are looking for (example say “Punjabi”), and an interpreter will join the call.

www.healthlinkbc.ca

How to Get Rid of Otters in a Pond

It is my goal to educate the public about otters and other wildlife, and provide tips for safe, effective, and responsible wildlife removal.

HUMANE HINTS: In some cases, you don’t need to remove otters at all — you can build steel fences to keep them out of the area you don’t want them. You can even install surface fencing in water to protect fish. NEVER attempt to poison otters. Read below for how-to hints.

If you need otter help, click on my Nationwide List of Otter Removal Experts for a pro near you.

How to Get Rid of Otters — Otters are adorable river creatures that are native to the North American continent that prefer colder areas with cold freshwater. Otters are large river mammal in the subfamily Lutrinae that can grow up to 30+ pounds and almost 4 feet long. They are best recognized for their long cylindrical bodies and puffy cheeks with large eyes and long whiskers. Otters can walk around and make their burrows on land, but they need water to hunt and play in. Otters are generally docile critters that prefer to keep away from humans, but it is not unheard of them to be aggressive when protecting their territory or their young from anything they perceive to be a predator.

Many people do not consider these cute creatures to be pests, but if you live near a water source that has a family of otters in it, you may feel differently. Otters are carnivores, and will eat a large quantity of fish, crayfish, frogs, crabs, insects and small birds in the area that they live because they must consume their weight in food every day to live. If they figure out that you have food on your property, such as a decorative goldfish pond, and in some rare cases cat food, they may decide to make your yard one of their snacking spots. Many people also report that otters are living under their house or their porch which can cause damage to your foundation. Not to mention that if one of them dies in there, the smell is absolutely horrible. If you have an otter problem, here are a few suggestions on how to get rid of them.

  • If you have a family of otters that like to come up from the water to snack on some food source, or live in some part of your property you don’t want, build a fence around your property or your garden if you cannot afford to do a fence around the perimeter of your property. You can go with the traditional wooden fence or a wire mesh fence, but make sure that you bury the fence at least a foot underground and a couple feet above ground to keep all critters, not just otters, out of your yard/garden. You can also clean up all the fruit, berries, etc. that have fallen to the ground so that the smell of the ripening fruit does not attract them.
  • Some people try to use repellents to deter otters from coming onto their land. Repellents are not guaranteed to work, and in truth are usually pretty ineffective, but if you reapply them constantly they may deter the otters. There are many repellents available such as coyote, fox, king snake, etc. You can also use your own urine, which might sound nasty, but it smells like a predator to otters and it will do the trick.
  • If a family of otters has taken up residence under your house you can exclude them out. To do this you will locate where the entrance to their burrows are and plug them up except one. Sprinkle some flour down on the ground outside the entrance so you can check their foot prints, soak a rag with ammonia (this does not hurt them but is extremely unpleasant to them) and throw it into the burrow. All the otters that are in there might leave to get away from the smell. Once all of them are out, plug up the hole and it is as simple as that.
  • Call a professional pest removal expert to deal with the otters. Otters are considered an endangered species in many parts of the world and you may not even be able to take care of the situation yourself. Professionals can get rid of the otters on your property and relocate them to a safer location where they are not being a nuisance.
See also:  How to Use Lemon Juice to Kill Lice, Our Everyday Life

More in-detail how-to otter removal articles:
Information about otter trapping — analysis and methods for how to trap.
Information about how to kill a otter — with poison or other methods.
Information about how to keep otters away — prevention techniques.
Information about how to catch a otter — remove one stuck in the house.
Information about otter repellent — analysis of types and effectiveness.

Otter Information & Facts

Otter Appearance: Otters are sleek and streamlined, their bodies created for efficient movement in the water. These semi-aquatic animals can grow to be six feet in length and can weigh as much as one hundred pounds. The short legs of the otter end in webbed feet with sharp claws. Most species boast a long, powerful tail, used for propulsion in the water. Otters are usually brown in color. Their coats are made of two layers. The outer layer insulates the inner layer with a cushion of air, preventing the softer hair from getting wet. This ability keeps the otter’s skin warm and dry while the animal is underwater. Most otters have small ears, small eyes, and large noses. They have a thick padding of fat in the cheek area to prevent serious injury from any of their prey animals.

Otter Habitat and Behavior: Otters are found on almost every continent. The exceptions are Antarctica and Australia. Because of the dependence on water for survival, otters are never found more than a few yards away from their aquatic homes unless they are travelling between areas. Most species of otter live in areas with a current, though a few types live in swamps and marshes.

Otter habitats are often made up of a variety of activity locations. The den itself will have an underwater entrance. The tunnel will then slope upward to a burrow that is above the flood level. This is the area the otter will spend time sleeping and raising young. Other areas in an otter habitat include rolling places or flat areas where the otter grooms itself. Grooming is very important in otter life. The insulating properties of the hair coat are only maintained through rigorous cleaning. Slides are found at various points along the body of water. These quick points of access are usually smooth paths down a muddy slope, though otters will often create slides out of snow during the winter months. Spraint areas are used as bathrooms. Runways are the most common characteristic of an otter home, connecting small or large bodies of water together.

Otters tolerate one another, forming group hierarchies based on the most desirable living areas. These groups are separated by sex, with females and males only seen together for any length of time during the mating season. There is no obvious animosity between groups, and both a male and a female group can occupy the same area. Some otters, such as the River Otter, are mostly solitary.

Otter Diet: Otters live near water because it provides them with everything they need—including food. They are carnivorous, and most species eat a variety of fish, amphibians, shellfish, crabs, and other aquatic creatures. If opportunity presents itself, an otter will eat a rabbit, bird, or rodent that ventures near the water. A large volume of food is needed to keep up the otter’s metabolism. They must eat at least fifteen percent of their body weight daily to maintain the ability to keep warm while in the water for extended periods of time. Prey is usually caught in the otter’s jaws and then held with the front paws for consumption. Some species lay on their backs, using their chests as tables for dissecting food.

Otter Nuisance Concerns: Otters are mischievous by nature and this makes them ingenious when it comes to creating problems in human environments. The most common issues with otters center on specialty facilities being invaded by the hungry mammals. Otters in fish hatcheries, stocked ponds, or private waterways can wreak havoc in a short amount of time. Otter waste can also be an issue around a home or business.

Otter Diseases: Otters are a surprising vector for many animal-to-animal diseases, only a few of which are transmissible to humans. Rabies is very rare in otters, but this disease should be mentioned due to its severity. Like other aquatic animals, otters can spread giardia, the protozoan that causes gastrointestinal upset in humans. Leptospirosis, another disease the can harbor in water, affects kidney function and is often asymptomatic until the disease has progressed beyond redemption. Otters pose a risk to pets by transmitting diseases such as canine distemper, canine parvovirus, and feline rhinotracheitis.

This site is intended to provide otter education and information, so that you can make an informed decision if you need to deal with a otter problem. This site provides many otter control articles and strategies, if you wish to attempt to solve the problem yourself. If you are unable to do so, which is likely with many cases of otter removal, please go to the home page and click the USA map, where I have wildlife removal experts listed in over 500 cites and towns, who can properly help you with your nuisance otter.

www.wildlifeanimalcontrol.com

Share:
No comments

Добавить комментарий

Your e-mail will not be published. All fields are required.