Brown House Moth

Brown House Moth

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The Brown House Moth (Hofmannophila pseudospretella) is a species of the concealer moth family and is probably originally native to Asia. However the Brown House Moth has been introduced to other regions by human activity and is found almost worldwide today. It is often considered a pest due to the feeding activity of its caterpillars.

At rest the Adult Brown House Moth is typically 8-14mm and its wingspan is 15–26 mm. Brown House Moth colouring is normally bronze-brown with dark brown and sometimes black flecks on the forewings. The adults fly all year round. The Brown House Moth larvae are about 6mm long, being off-white in colour and with a brown head. The female adult brown house moth can lay up to 600 eggs and the incubation period, dependent on conditions, can vary from 8 to 110 days. The larval stage can extend from 70 to about 150 days and the brown house moth larvae need a reasonably high degree of humidity – if humidity is consistently below 80% they cannot complete their development.

The caterpillars feed on organic detritus that accumulates indoors, e.g. behind skirting boards and other similar places. Typically foodstuffs are cereals (including oatmeal, pearl barley and rice) and other seeds, flour, potatoes, furs and biscuits. The Brown House Moth will also feed off natural clothing and carpet fabrics, in particular wool upholstery, carpets and clothing. The brown house moth is more destructive than the common clothes moth. Its faeces are oblong and larger than those of the common clothes moth.

Pest control measures depend on location – for food preparation and storage areas it is critical to ensure a safe solution is used; either clear the whole area of foodstuffs and dispose of contaminated food prior to using chemical treatments and thereafter use moth traps designed for food areas. See our Pantry Moths range at Moth-Prevention.com.

We’ve helped over 100,000 customers deal effectively with moth prevention and damage by moths.

With great pre- and post-sale support you’re not alone! We offer a fast and secure delivery service, clear advice guides and ensure that you have the right products to deal with your moth infestation, all as standard!

www.moth-prevention.com

Rabbits: how to control numbers

Find out how to solve a pest problem with rabbits in order to protect your property or business.

Your responsibility to control rabbit numbers

You must obey the law to control rabbit numbers on your property or land. England (excluding the City of London and Isles of Scilly) was declared a rabbit clearance area under the Pests Act 1954.

You must control rabbits on your land in this area. If this is not possible you must stop them causing damage to adjoining crops by putting up rabbit proof fencing. If you don’t take action the Secretary of State for the Environment can enforce control and prosecute if this action is not taken.

You can control rabbits using these methods:

  • gas
  • traps and snares
  • fencing
  • ferreting
  • shooting

Control with gas

You should use someone trained in the use of gassing products if you choose this method of control. Read the Health and Safety Executive information sheet gassing of rabbits and vertebrate pests.

Catch with traps and snares

It is an offence to cause unnecessary suffering to a rabbit caught in a trap or snare.

You can use cage traps, drop box traps or spring traps, but you must:

  • check traps and snares once a day
  • humanely despatch any rabbits you catch
  • only use approved spring traps
  • place them where they will be exposed to severe weather
  • place them near a fox earth or badger sett
  • use self-locking snares

Exclude rabbits with fencing

There are 3 types of fencing:

  • electric netting
  • electric strained wire (similar to the kind used to manage cattle and sheep)
  • permanent wire-mesh netting

Fencing restrictions

You need Secretary of State agreement to put up fencing on Scheduled Monuments.

You should not put up fencing on archaeological sites.

Some wildlife habitats and species depend on rabbit grazing, so you should consider wildlife interests when deciding where to put up rabbit fencing.

You should install badger gates if the fence crosses any badger runs.

Use ferrets

You can send ferrets into the burrow system. The ferrets drive rabbits into nets, which are placed over the burrow entrances or to waiting guns that shoot them as they bolt from tunnel entrances.

When you can shoot rabbits

If you are the occupier of land you can shoot rabbits on your land during the day and can authorise in writing one other person to do so. That person must be part of your household, one of your staff, or be employed for reward to specifically control the rabbits.

If the owner of the shooting rights for your land does not agree to destroy the rabbits themselves or allow you to use extra shooters, you can apply to Natural England for authority to do so.

Wildlife licensing

Natural England
Horizon House
Deanery Road
Bristol
BS1 5AH

Telephone 020 8026 1089

You can shoot rabbits at night only if you are:

  • an owner/occupier with shooting rights
  • a landlord/landlady who has reserved their shooting rights
  • a shooting tenant not in occupation who has derived the shooting rights from the owner
  • an occupier, or one other person authorised by the occupier in writing, where the occupier has written authority from someone with the shooting rights

See Hunting game and wildlife for more information on penalties for illegal hunting and causing unnecessary suffering to an animal.

Make a complaint about rabbit damage

If you’re suffering damage from rabbits coming from neighbouring land, you should contact the landowner concerned first, to agree how to resolve the issue.

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If your neighbour fails to control them, you can make a complaint to Natural England using form A02. More details on how this will be dealt with are available on the form page.

If rabbits live on land owned by Network Rail, you should telephone Network Rail national helpline 03457 11 41 41.

See Pest control on your property for general advice about controlling pests.

www.gov.uk

Rat Infestation

Rat on Countertop

Rats are responsible for the transmission of many diseases. Their feeding habits are destructive, and their nesting behaviors can compromise the structure of infested buildings. However, rats are secretive and not seen by humans when populations are low. Therefore, an infestation may prove difficult to confirm.

The most obvious sign of a rat infestation is the presence of dead or living rats. Rats prefer to hide, given enough space, so if rats are observed in plain sight, it is likely that a full-blown infestation already exists. When space becomes limited due to increased population, rats are forced out into the open. Rat droppings may be present, indicating a healthy, feeding rat population. Rats also tend to leave dirt or grease marks along walls and floorboards.

If these obvious signs are not present, examine the surroundings for rat runs. These tracks are left in grass and low vegetation and act as foraging paths for rodents. Rats tend to follow the same paths after they have been established. Norway rats dwell in burrows found in grassy embankments, beneath the roots of trees and at the edges of paving and drain covers. Roof rat nests may also be found inside in lofts, attics, beneath floorboards and in other dark, infrequently visited locations.

Rat in Kitchen Pantry

Rats gnaw incessantly on materials such as plastic and wood. The presence of damaged materials and large holes in floorboards and walls are sure signs of infestation. Rat teeth marks are large and rough in appearance.

In the event of an infestation, it is best to consult a pest control professional. Although various traps are available, they address only individual specimens and will not prove effective in the face of an infestation. Additionally, rats tend to be wary of unknown objects in their established foraging paths, rendering many traps initially ineffective.

www.orkin.com

Reducing Food Waste in Your Restaurant Kitchen

Waste not, want not. The old saying is a cliche because it’s true. In a restaurant kitchen, it’s easy to forget about ingredients tucked away in the cooler or the walk-in. When it is rediscovered, it’s well past its expiration date — so into the garbage (or hopefully the compost bin) it goes. Or perhaps a certain weekend special didn’t sell as well as expected; it might end being thrown out on Monday. But this type of food waste is costly for restaurants. With budgets tight, restaurants need to save money whenever and wherever possible. Reducing food waste is something that restaurants should be doing, even in a good economy.

Here are some simple steps to keep food waste in your restaurant kitchen to a minimum.

Buy Only What You Need

Your sales rep may try to get you to buy several cases of lettuce or tomatoes because they are on sale. However, if you won’t use more than one case in a week, then you run the risk of food spoilage. And that equals dollars lost. Only buy produce on sale that you can definitely sell within a week. If it is something that isn’t on your regular menu, have a good idea of how you are going to serve it to customers.

Label Everything

This goes for everything in your walk-in cooler and freezer as well as in your dry storage. Not only does it ensure food safety, it helps you use older food first (FIFO) before they spoil. This should be part of your kitchen SOP (Standard Operating Procedure).

Inspect All Food Orders

Often cases of fresh produce will arrive at your restaurant DOA. That is, they are either spoiled or well on their way. This is why it is important to inspect your incoming order. If you (the owner) aren’t in charge of checking in the food delivery, make sure that whoever is knows that they can reject cases of wilted greens or spoiled veggies. Don’t be afraid to send the food back and speak with your sales rep. If this happens repeatedly, it is time to start shopping for a new food vendor.

Regulate Beer and Wine Temperatures

Even though beer and wine are not fresh per se, they are still perishable. Fluctuating temperatures can cause beer to have a “skunked” taste and makes wine bitter. So make sure your dry storage area, or wherever you store your beer and wine, is set at a constant temperature. Food spoilage is almost impossible to escape in a restaurant kitchen. But you can minimize it by staying organized and only buying what you need. However, don’t get overzealous about tossing questionable foods. When in doubt, throw it out. A little spoilage is better than risking your customers’ health.

Repurpose Ingredients

Anyone who has spent time working in a restaurant knows that Monday’s soup special is usually recycled weekend specials. There is nothing wrong with creating a new dish from a previous day’s specials (assuming the food is not past its expiration date — again when in doubt, THROW IT OUT). Repurposing leftovers into a new lunch or dinner special is a good way to reduce food waste.

Consider Composting

Food waste is not good for a restaurant budget or for the environment. Creating new specials out of repurposed ingredients is a good way to stretch your food cost and reduce the amount of food that ends up in the garbage. For those ingredients that you don’t catch in time, adding them to the compost bin instead of the trash bin is another way to reduce spoilage. More and more restaurants are going green, implementing recycling and composting as part of their business model. Even if you don’t have a restaurant garden to use compost, local farmers or gardeners would be happy to use it in their gardens. This is a win-win for both of you.

www.thebalancesmb.com

What to Do When Mice Have Invaded Your Home

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Do not be fooled by their cute and fuzzy faces: mice are not something you want in your house. It’s one thing to see a little field mouse scurry down a path in a park, but another one entirely when they’re chewing your furniture, leaving droppings all over the place or gnawing electrical wirings in your walls. Not to mention that rodents in general are harbingers of many diseases. They’re also very clever, resourceful and difficult to get rid of.

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My parents’ house has recently become the unfortunate home of these abominable critters, so we’ve been dealing with this nightmare. The experience has taught me that any home can become potential nesting grounds for rodents. They’re just looking for a safe home that offers warmth and food. While that’s great for them, they’re just frustrating and unsanitary for us.

Build a Self-Resetting Mouse Trap

We’ve covered many mouse traps over the years, but they all need to be reset once you’ve caught a

Confirm that you have a mouse problem

Mice are like tiny, four-legged ninjas who make themselves scarce, but when you have a potential rodent problem, you might spot one scampering away out of the corner of your eye. Once you see one inside your house, you should immediately suspect you have a nest somewhere—in your walls, in the attic, in the garage, wherever.

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Most people don’t even realize they have mice until things get really bad. The most obvious signs of a mouse problem are droppings, which look like this. (I’ll never look at chocolate sprinkles or caraway seeds the same way again.) Though it’s temping to just wipe them up, make sure you take extra safety precautions , such as wearing gloves and masks when handling the droppings. This includes disinfecting the area afterward, and throwing away food that might’ve been contaminated. The last thing you want is to get sick at the same time you discover an infestation.

You may also find chewed up food packages or pieces of your wall along the floor from the mice having drilled through them. You may hear scratching in your walls or attic, or the pitter-patter of tiny little feet at night. And if all that wasn’t gross enough, you may also find pillars comprised of body grease, dirt and urine , which build up into small mounds up to two inches high and half an inch wide. And yes, these smell bad.

Any or all of these mean you’ve got a potential infestation on your hands. The good news is that getting rid of mice is simple in principle. The bad news is that it could take a lot of work or money.

Start by “mouse-proofing” your home

Getting rid of mice is not easy. Mice entered your home because it’s cozy, has food, and most of all, is easy to get into. Contrary to what you see in cartoons like Tom & Jerry, mice don’t need a gaping half-circle of a hole in your baseboard. They can squeeze through tiny cracks, holes and gaps that are smaller than the circumference of your pinky finger. Basically, if you can fit a pencil into a hole, a mouse can probably fit, too. They are very skilled contortionists.

The first step is to inspect the outside of your home to find possible places mice can squeeze through. Check stairs, the foundation, corners and any place that might have small crevices. When you find anything that can possibly be an entryway, close it off with wire mesh . For inside the house, you can use steel wool and caulk to plug up any holes you can find.

Mice can chew through practically any material except steel. In my experience, using a wire mesh wherever possible has been most effective. You’ll need to do this for anything resembling a hole. That includes cracks and gaps along the ceiling and even those high up on a wall. Just assume that these tenacious creatures can reach anywhere in your house.

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Extension Education in Bexar County

Improving Lives. Improving Texas.

Worms in Trees Causing Homeowners Grief

San Antonio Express News
GARDENING, Etc.
Sunday, April 24, 2005

By Molly Keck

This past week our office has been overwhelmed with calls from homeowners wondering what are the “little worms falling out of trees” that seem to be plaguing our city. These little critters are actually not worms, but little caterpillars commonly called “oak leaf rollers,” “inchworms,” or “cankerworms.” They spin strands of silk which can wrap entire oak trees when infestations are severe. They are most commonly found in oak trees, their preferred host, but can also infest other types of trees.

This year’s oak leaf rollers are much worse than recent years due to the mild winter and wet year we have enjoyed.

Oak leaf rollers are currently at their population peak and will hopefully start to diminish by the end of April, although some homeowners may not see relief until early May.

Oak leaf rollers are not only capable of defoliating entire oak trees, but many homeowners cannot spend time outdoors without being bombarded by caterpillars falling out of the trees.

It is important to understand that oak trees have been battling outbreaks of oak leaf rollers long before humans intervened. And in many cases, doing nothing is the best solution to the problem.

However, weakened or stressed trees are more susceptible to severe and irreversible damage by oak leaf rollers as well as other insects and may have to be treated with pesticides. And in residential areas, where trees are valued, protection is usually desired.

There are a variety of products available to treat your oak trees. Products that contain Bacillus thruingiensis or Bt will kill only the caterpillars and spare other insects, including beneficial insects. Insecticides with the active ingredient carbaryl are also effective as well as any other product labeled to treat “oakworms” or “caterpillars.” These are typically sprayed into the trees and kill the caterpillars that come in contact with the pesticide.

Treating the grass around the trees may kill off the surviving caterpillars and prevent them from becoming adult moths which will produce next year’s oak leaf rollers.

If you cannot or do not want to spray the trees yourself, a pest control company can do the work for you.

You can spray your trees now to kill oak leaf rollers on them currently, but the best source of control is to spray before the oak leaf rollers reach their population peak. This will help alleviate the problem before it starts. Next year, spray your trees late March or early April, when the caterpillars emerge, before any damage has been done.
For more information on oak leaf rollers, go to the following web links:
http://insects.tamu.edu/extension/publications/E206.pdf

This article was written by Molly Keck, Integrated Pest Management Program Specialist with Texas Cooperative Extension in Bexar County.

bexar-tx.tamu.edu

Unmatched silkworm — how to deal with a pest invasion

Pest usually brings a lot of havoc to a commercial or a residential building. The major challenge usually appears when you let them multiply without taking any immediate action. The right thing that you need to consider doing is to look for an expert instead of dealing with the challenge yourself. When you are searching for the best person or firm to hire, it is advisable that you always look for a professional if you want the job done well. It is important to ensure that you consider the following issues so that your building get the right person to deal with the pest invasion.

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It is important to ensure that the company that you want to hire has the right tools for work. For you to know that you are dealing with a professional, they need to have the latest equipment for work. This will ensure that it takes them the shortest time to get rid of the pest. With the right tools you are also sure that you will get the best services that you need. Get attached to us now and learn more about Brooklyn’s top pest control company.

There is the need to look at the price they charge for their services. You need to know that different firms will charge different prices for their services. When you are in need of more personalized services, it is essential to know that you will dig dipper than what one has to pay for. It is advisable to ensure that the services that you get to choose are the ones that you will pay comfortably. However, going for the cheapest services is not advisable as it can mean low-quality services.

Another reason why you need to look for a professional is that they will make sure that not only their staff but also those occupying the house are safe. When it comes to this issue, there is the need to know the right time that you need to have the services provided. You need to ensure that the company you want to hire is mindful of the health and the safety of the people occupying the property. Make yourself one of the luckiest person who learn about the Brooklyn emergency pest control.

The experience and the reputation of the firm that you want to hire is an important thing that you need to look at. Get to hear what other people have to say about the kind of services they get from a certain company. The other ideal option to ascertain the expertise of the firm is to see what clients have to say on the quality of their services on the company’s website.

It is therefore important to ensure that you look into the above factors so that you get the right pest control expert. When you see that a firm meets all these factors, it shows that they will offer you the services that you are looking for.

pestcontrolguideblog.site123.me

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As a certified pest control company, it is our duty to make your properties termite and pest free, and the most non-toxic and safe treatment options are used that are not harmful to the lives of humans or pets.

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