SPIDER MITE ON CUCUMBERS: HOW TO DEAL WITH TRADITIONAL METHODS AND SPECIAL MEANS?

Measures and means of combating spider mite on cucumbers: in the greenhouse and on the site

Whatever measures are taken by gardeners, they are faced with many problems from year to year, the first place being pests.

These creatures that live on the plants and in the soil, impair the quality and quantity of the crop, causing damage to the root system, leaves and shoots.

Numerous insects can damage cucumber plantations, among which you should pay special attention to destruction. spider mite.

Causes of

What causes spider mites on cucumbers? The pest appears and actively reproduces only in favorable conditions for it — high temperature and dry air. Ticks overwinter in fallen leaves, topsoil, manure and greenhouses (especially in the corners).

The most annoying thing is to protect the crop from the appearance of the pest. is impossible — it can get on seedlings even with a gust of wind.

The only way out — carrying out usual agrotechnical measures in order to prevent the appearance of spider mites.

What is spider mite? Spider mite on cucumbers — photo:

How to recognize a pest?

On the appearance of spider mites on cucumbers say the following the signs:

  • bright spots (with a large lesion — spots) on the back of the sheet;
  • almost transparent web on a plant;
  • growth retardation;
  • yellowing leaves.

On the cucumber spider mite — what to do?

Methods and control measures

Spider mite on cucumbers: how to fight?

Location on

How to get rid of spider mites on cucumbers in the summer cottage or garden?

Fight against spider mite on cucumbers also includes:

  1. Before sowing the land must necessarily dig up, because most of the pests winters in the upper soil layer.
  2. Spider mite wintering in the open ground first develops on weedstherefore, they need to be systematically deleted.
  3. During the growing need inspect carefully plants and when detecting affected leaves — they need to be removed and bury or burn.
  4. Planting cucumbers should alternate with cabbage or tomatoes.
  5. If spider mite is found, the lesion should be treated biologics.

In the greenhouse

How to get rid of spider mites in a greenhouse on cucumbers? Most at risk the occurrence of spider mites are susceptible to plants in greenhouses.

Here to breed pests all conditions are created — high temperature (30 degrees and above) and relatively low humidity.

Spider mite on cucumbers in the greenhouse — control measures: the pest does not tolerate moisture above 60%, therefore raising its level in the greenhouse to 80-85% is the best method for preventing the development of pests.

Web on cucumbers in a greenhouse: how to deal with it? When growing cucumbers in the greenhouse, the main methods of dealing with spider mites should be added:

  1. Disinfection (fumigation) greenhouse construction in the fall after harvest and in the spring before sowing with full tightness.
  2. Post-harvest removal top layer soil.
  3. Burning trellis gas torch.
  4. Fertilizer phosphate mixtures.

How to deal with spider mites on cucumbers in the greenhouse, you will learn by watching this video:

Means for processing cucumbers

What to process cucumbers from spider mite? What is the remedy for spider mite on cucumbers use?

The destruction of spider mites is guaranteed by such means as insectoacaricides and acaricides, but today there are no safe for humans systems that allow the use of these drugs on the site. Most use drugs of enteric-contact action, which gives quite good results.

The treatment of cucumbers by means of enteric-contact action should be carried out more than once. The higher ambient temperature — the smaller the interval is to be kept between treatments.

Of the drugs against spider mites on cucumbers, Karbofos, Iskra-BIO and Bitoxibacillin, Phytopherms are worth highlighting.

Spraying needs to be done in the eveningwhen there is no sun, so that the chemicals do not have time to evaporate and destroy the spider mite.

The safest pest control tool is mite phytosejlyus.

The predator is placed next to the affected foci to destroy the eggs of the spider mite, but for the best result you need to inhabit the mite every 3 weeks.

On how to properly use drugs for processing cucumbers from spider mites in the greenhouse, you can learn from this video:

Folk remedies

The most popular measures to combat folk remedies with spider mites include:

  1. Spraying plants soap solution.
  2. Landing flowering plants.
  3. Settlement area Ajarian Entomoftora.

Diseases of cucumbers caused by spider mites

For humans, this pest does not represent no danger, but for cucumbers, spider mite is special enemy. It not only sucks all the juices from the leaf, disrupting photosynthesis, but also makes the plant vulnerable to a number of infections.

Infected culture gradually begins to dry out, which ultimately leads to its doom. Spider mite can cause gray mold dispute, which affects the entire terrestrial part of the plant. Not only shoots, leaves and flower stalks are endangered, but also fruits.

What do cucumbers, affected by spider mites look like? Cucumber diseasecaused by spider mite — photo:

How to save? Treatment methods

How to remove spider mite from cucumbers? Affected parts of a plant are imperatively needed remove, for a few days stop wateringfeed the plant nitrogen fertilizer and sprinkle ash stains.

If the disease continues to develop, it is necessary to take drastic measures — dig up and burn diseased plants, process healthy ones with special solutions.

The fight against spider mites is the case when an important role is played prevention. When carrying out all agrotechnical measures and attentive attitude to the cultivated crop, the risk of infection with a spider mite is minimized. And this, in turn, gives a great chance to get large yield without loss.

See also:  7 Tips - Tricks To Get Rid Of Mealybugs On Indoor Plants

About ways to combat spider mite on cucumbers and preventive measures in this video:

ph.farmforage.com

Anthracnose

Yes, it is possible to control anthracnose without using toxic fungicides and sprays. Here’s how:

Generally found in the eastern part of the United States, anthracnose is caused by fungi in the genus Colletotrichum, a common group of plant pathogens that are responsible for diseases on many plant species. Infected plants develop dark, water soaked lesions on stems, leaves or fruit. The centers of these lesions often become covered with pink, gelatinous masses of spores especially during moist, warm weather. Anthracnose can reduce a beautiful harvest into rotted waste in just a few days.

The fungal disease overwinters in and on seeds, soil and garden debris. Cool wet weather promotes its development, and the optimum temperature for continued growth of the spores is between 75-85˚F. Moisture is required for development and germination of the fungus as well as for infection of the plant. It is spread by wind, rain, insects and garden tools.

Treatment

  1. Choose resistant plant varieties when possible and use western grown seeds which have not been exposed to the disease.
  2. If this fungal problem is common, do NOTsave your own seed from plantings.
  3. To avoid spreading the disease, keep out of gardens when plants are wet and make sure to disinfect all garden tools (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after use.
  4. Do not compost infected leaves, fruit or stems and thoroughly clean up garden areas in the fall, after harvest, to reduce over wintering sites for the fungal spores.
  5. Safely treat most fungal and bacterial diseases with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis that is registered for organic use. Best of all, SERENADE is completely non-toxic to honey bees and beneficial insects.
  6. Liquid copper sprays and sulfur powders should be applied weekly, starting when foliage begins to develop in the early spring and continuing throughout the growing season. Spray early in the day, and avoid applications during hot weather. Seeds may also be treated prior to planting.
  7. Neem oil spray is an organic, multi-purpose fungicide/insecticide/miticide that kills eggs, larvae and adult stages of insects as well as prevents fungal attack on plants. Apply early, at the first sign of spring budding, every 7-14 days as a preventative measure or on a 7-day schedule until existing problems are eliminated.

Recommended Products

Serenade Garden

Grow beautiful, disease-free fruits, vegetables and flowers — without chemicals!

Neem Oil — RTU

An easy to use, ready to spray formula that works both indoors or out.

Liquid Copper Spray

Use as a dormant or growing season spray on fruits, flowers and vegetable crops.

Garden Dust (Bonide)

This powerful blend may be used as a spray or dust to cure most plant problems.

www.planetnatural.com

How to Use Dish Soap for Spider Mites

Spider mites, tiny web-spinning arachnids that colonize on the undersides of plants’ leaves, suck the fluids out of the plants, including the chlorophyll, leaving them mottled or even killing them. Insecticides will eliminate the pests, but they may also kill beneficial insects, such as ladybug beetles, and they often leave a chemical residue that is toxic to pets and children. Insecticidal soaps work without that damage and risk, but they are often expensive. A simple solution is to make your own version using dish-washing soap.

What to Mix

Use a mild dish-washing liquid that does not contain a degreaser. Don’t choose automatic dish-washing detergent, as these are usually too harsh for tender plants. Make a 2-percent solution by mixing 2 teaspoons of liquid soap to 1 pint of distilled water. Hard water will reduce the efficacy of the mixture, so tap water is usually not the best option. For more sensitive plants, use a weaker solution.

How to Apply

For a soap mixture to be effective against mites, you need to make sure that it covers the pests entirely. Fill a spray bottle with your mix and wet the leaves of the plant thoroughly, tops and undersides. To protect your plants, rinse the leaves after a couple of hours.

Why It Works

Insecticidal soaps, including your homemade version, control spider mites by washing away the waxy coating that protects them and then breaking down their cell membranes. This makes the treatment effective against soft-bodied pests without posing much harm to hard-bodied insects that help your plants thrive.

What to Consider

While insecticidal soaps are about 50 percent effective in ridding your plants of mites, it only works when the wet solution comes in contact with the mites. As a result, you may need to spray more than once.

Also, soaps may leave your plants vulnerable to phytotoxicity, also known as plant injury, which results in spotting and burning of leaf tips and edges. To prevent this, only spray well-watered, nonstressed plants. Don’t spray new growth before it has hardened off, and don’t spray if the temperatures are above 90 degrees. Test a small area of any leaves for its reaction before dousing the entire plant.

www.hunker.com

Yates Mavrik Chewing and Sucking Insect Killer

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Yates Mavrik is a broad spectrum synthetic pyrethroid that controls a range of chewing and sucking insects and mites by contact action. Will kill catrepillars, aphids, two-spotted mites, apple dimpling bug & plague thrips. For vegetables, fruit trees, roses & ornamentals.

Features

  • Controls a range of chewing & sucking insects & mites.
  • Can be used on cole crops, tomatoes, roses & table grapes (not NT or TAS).

Direction for use

Shake bottle well. Measure out required amount of Yates Mavrik and mix in water.

DO NOT apply if rain is expected within 24 hours. DO NOT apply when soil is dry and plants are suffering from moisture stress.

Cole crops inc. cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, broccoli

Pest : Caterpillars (Helicoverpa spp.; native budworm, corn earworm), cabbage moth, cabbage white butterfly

Rate:10 – 13ml per litre of water

How to apply: Commence spraying at first sign of infestation. Use the low rate for small infestations or if caterpillars are small.

Tomatoes

Pest : Caterpillars (Helicoverpa spp.; tomato grub, corn earworm), green peach aphid

Rate:10 – 13ml per litre of water

How to apply: Repeat applications every 7 – 10 days depending on pest infestation.

Roses, shrubs and other ornamentals

Pest : Caterpillars (Helicoverpa spp.; native budworm, corn earworm), two spotted mite, aphids

See also:  Bark Beetles, ScienceDirect

Rate:10 – 13ml per litre of water

How to apply: Thorough coverage is essential. Add a wetting agent for hard to wet foliage.

Apples (not NT or Tas.)

Pest : Apple dimpling bug, plague thrips

Rate:6.5ml per litre of water

How to apply: Apply 1 only spray during early blossom from pink stage to 20% blossom.

Cherries, nectarines, peaches, plums, table grapes (not NT or Tas.)

Pest : Plague thrips

Rate:6.5ml per litre of water

How to apply: Apply just prior to or at start of flowering when thrips infestation is significant. Second application during the flowering period may be required 10 – 14 days later depending on thrips numbers. This second application must not be applied outside of the blossom period.

NOT TO BE USED FOR ANY PURPOSE, OR IN ANY MANNER, CONTRARY TO THIS LABEL UNLESS AUTHORISED

www.yates.com.au

How, when and how to treat grapes from diseases and pests

Grapes are spread all over the world like no other culture. There are more than 10 thousand varieties of this wonderful plant with fragrant tasty berries, most of which are used to make wines and cognacs. In addition, grapes are used in cooking, medicine, cosmetology. Often a person himself became the cause of the death of vineyards, but the culture has always had other enemies — diseases and pests.

Why do you need to process grapes

Bacteria, fungi and pests can degrade the taste of berries, reduce, and sometimes destroy the entire long-awaited crop and even the whole plant. Preventing the disease is always easier than fighting it later. To combat diseases of grapes and harmful insects, it is necessary to carry out preventive treatment of the vine. Well, and, of course, when a specific problem is discovered, urgently take measures to eliminate it.

The most harmful diseases of grapes are mildew, or downy mildew, and oidium, or real powdery mildew. This «dusty couple» of fungal diseases affects leaves, shoots, inflorescences and berries, they are especially dangerous for the sweetest European grape varieties.

Photo gallery: how plants affected by mildew and oidium look like

Fungal diseases are also such as anthracnose, various types of rot, spotting, fusarium and others. With the help of wind, spores spread over long distances, fall on the surface of plants, germinate and give rise to new spores. Stopping the onset of infection is quite difficult.

Many bacterial diseases are poorly treated and can lead to the death of a bush. The most common of these are bacterial spotting, necrosis, and cancer.

Some diseases are caused by insects that live on leaves and trunks. The most dangerous of these are aphids, phylloxera, leaf moths and spider mites. The spider mite manifests itself as red-red balls on the veins on the underside of the leaf; it inhibits the growth of young shoots very noticeably.

That is why preventive treatment of plants comes first.

Many grape varieties completely died from phylloxera (a pest introduced from North America) in the mid-19th century. So, for example, varieties from which the famous «Madera» were made have disappeared. Now this wine is made from other varieties.

Newpix.ru — a positive online magazine

When and how to spray grapes

The processing of grapes for preventive purposes is carried out regularly from the moment the grapes are opened in the spring and ends with the period of preparation for shelter for the winter. Spraying is not carried out in rainy weather, as well as on a bright sunny day, it is necessary to comply with the recommended concentration of solutions, well, treatment must be done on time. When using chemicals, safety precautions should be observed and the packaging of the product must be disposed of in accordance with the instructions.

Grape Processing in Spring

The first grape processing is carried out in spring, when the temperature rises above 4-6 about C, immediately after the opening of the vines, only before the buds begin to bloom. Previously, dry and diseased branches are removed from the plants, the last year’s leaves are removed around. Simultaneously with the vine, the soil around the rhizome is also cultivated; a weak one-percent solution of iron sulfate is used for this (a three-percent solution is most acceptable). In addition to protecting against diseases and pests, iron sulfate delays the opening of the buds, which will help protect plants from spring frosts, fights lichens and mosses and is a good foliar top dressing.

Video: first grape processing in spring after opening

Many do grape processing with vitriol only in autumn, and in spring they process plants with a three percent solution of copper sulfate. First of all, it is necessary to spray bushes that were sick last year.
The following treatment is carried out with fungicides (from lat. Fungus “mushroom” + lat. Caedo “kill” -chemical or biological substances used to combat fungal diseases) immediately after opening the eyes, when there are only 3-4 leaves on young shoots. You can add treatment of karbofos from awakened insects ().

French scientist Pierre-Marie Alexis Millardde invented Bordeaux fluid specifically for combating fungal diseases of grapes. Nowadays, it is used as a universal fungicide for other crops.

Agronomu.com

If necessary, processing is repeated after 10 days.

The last spring treatment is carried out 1-2 weeks before flowering. In no case can spraying be carried out during the flowering period, extraneous odors will scare off insects and the vine will remain without pollinators.

Grape processing in the summer

Since grapes can be affected by diseases throughout the season, it is advisable to carry out treatments against fungal diseases in the summer during the ripening season. During this period, the vine can be treated with sulfur-containing drugs. Sulfur is effective only at temperatures above 18 degrees Celsius and it is the preparations with sulfur that help fight the more persistent powdery mildew.

The closer the time for picking berries, the less you want to use poisons in the struggle for the crop. During this period, with an interval of 1-2 weeks, I constantly spray plantings with a solution of potassium permanganate (5 g per 10 liters of water). I use a soda solution (2 tablespoons with a top in 10 liters of water) with the addition of 50 g of liquid soap and 5-10 drops of iodine. This composition noticeably improves the taste of berries, helps fight weeds.

Reliably included in my list of environmentally friendly means for combating diseases of different cultures, the drug Fitosporin-M universal. I use it three times a season for spraying grapes against diseases and increasing the yield. Very easy to use paste. Having made a concentrate once, I use it all season without waste of time.

See also:  This video reveals the secret to the dragonfly’s backward flight, Science, AAAS

It was also noted that powdery mildew developed faster if the grapes were not watered on hot sunny days, although humidity is one of the conditions for the development of fungal diseases. Apparently, the weakening of plants from a lack of moisture in the soil contributed to the development of the disease.

Video: processing grapes from diseases during fruiting from oidium, mildew, anthracnose

Grape Processing in Autumn

In autumn, after harvesting the juicy clusters of sun berries, after leaf fall and pruning of the vines, one should proceed to the last treatment of plants from diseases and pests. This treatment will prepare the plants for winter and will enable your grape bushes to remain strong and healthy next year. This treatment is done using iron and copper sulfate (3-5%).

Video: final treatment before shelter for the winter

To get rid of fungi and mold in the fall, I bleach the trunks and branches of the vine. I dilute 1 kg of quicklime in a small amount of water and bring the solution to 10 liters.

How to handle the vine from diseases

In the fight against diseases and pests of grapes, along with the long-used iron and copper sulfate and Bordeaux liquid, many new fungicides have appeared. For their proper use, you should know that fungicides are:

  • contact action;
  • systemic action;
  • combined

Contact fungicides are not addictive, but their effectiveness depends on the thoroughness of application, they act on the surface of the plant and are dependent on weather conditions and application time, the first rain will wash them off, and the dew will reduce the effect. They can be compared with drugs for external use.
Treatment with such fungicides can be repeated regularly. They should be used for prevention or at the very beginning of the disease. Contact fungicides include Omal, Rowright and Bordeaux.
Systemic fungicides act as if from the inside on the whole plant, the result of their use is immediately noticeable, and the rain will not wash them off. Their disadvantage is that they are addictive, they must be changed regularly, usually they are used after flowering.
Combined chemicals combine the characteristics of systemic and contact preparations, they include Shavit, Ridomil Gold, Cabrio Top. They are effective in combating mildew, oidium, all kinds of rot, black spotting.

Table: Systemic fungicides

Systemic fungicide Disease
Carbio Top mildew
Ridomil Gold mildew
Gates mildew, oidium
Impact oidium
Privent oidium
Falcon mildew, oidium
Fundazole mildew, oidium
Vectra mildew, oidium
Ronilan gray rot
Topsin gray rot
Sumylex gray rot
Captan white rot, black rot
Tsinebom white rot, black rot
Flaton white rot, black rot
Topaz white rot, black rot
Baytan white rot, black rot

Grape Pest Processing

The main pests that appear on grapes are aphids (phylloxera) and spider mites.
To combat aphids, the following chemicals have been developed:

  • fastak, contact-gastric action on parasites;
  • Fozalon, characterized by a long action;
  • Actellik, valid up to 2 hours, prevents the reappearance of aphids;
  • kinmix, destructive for both adults and larvae

To combat spider mites, fosalon, benzophosphate, permethrin are used.
Any pests, including the spider mite, die after being sprayed with a solution of colloidal sulfur (75%).

I try not to use chemicals and use alternative methods. Against aphids I use infusion of potato or tomato tops. 1.5 kg of chopped tops per 10 liters of water are taken and infused for 3-4 hours. Spraying with wood ash also helps (1 glass of ash in 5 liters of water, infused for 12 hours). The soap solution (100 g tar tar in a bucket of water) also has an effect. And from a tick I prepare an infusion of onion peel as follows: a jar (the volume depends on the required amount of infusion) is half filled with onion husk, and poured hot (60-70 about C) with water, I insist 1-2 days. After straining, I dilute with water twice and immediately use it.

Reviews of winegrowers

I do not work with Fundazole at all, and I spend one treatment with Ridomil Gold annually as a preventive. I prefer to process long before the harvest, than then to extinguish the fired up mildew fire. And also I do not use Nitrafen. And after flowering, I prefer something more serious than any Abiga peak. For example, the treating contact Kursat. And I do not use insecticides at all, because I have neither a tick nor a leaflet. The second half of the growing season also freely walk around the vineyard without fear, and I try the berries from the bush. And from the end of flowering until the end of August, I’m not working in chemistry.

Vladimir Stary Oskol, Belgorod Region

//vinforum.ru/index.php?topic=32.140

To combat rot, I use Horus and Switch.

Vasily Kulakov Stary Oskol Belgorod Region

//vinforum.ru/index.php?topic=32.140

For several years I have been working with Cabrio Top, EDC. I am very pleased with the result: it acts perfectly against mildew, anthracnose, oidium and black rot. During the season, a couple of treatments are necessary, but only apply to seedlings in the school mainly, because the waiting period is 60 days. In the fruiting vineyard I try not to use at all. Although in extreme situations, even before flowering, they sometimes had to process it too .

Fursa Irina Ivanovna Krasnodar Territory

//vinforum.ru/index.php?topic=32.140

The first treatment, immediately after removal of the shelter-500 gr, LCD, 10 l, water. Also cultivate the land around the bushes. After the garter of the vines, 250 g, ammonium nitrate, per 1 sq. M, water the Grapes abundantly, regardless of whether it is raw or dry. The first processing of the bushes, the size of the leaf, a coin of five cents. Ridomil Gold-50 gr, Topsin M-25g, Horus-6 gr, Bi 58 new, according to the instructions. The next treatment, after flowering, is two weeks. The same drugs + Colloidal sulfur, 60-80 g, per 10 liters of water. This scheme can be used by anyone, most importantly, to withstand deadlines and that there would be no fakes. In later grades, I apply the third treatment, Teldor, according to the instructions + potassium permanganate + soda. I do not use other drugs. Once every three years, in the fall, I process the Vineyard with Dnokom.

Alexey Kosenko, Kherson region Golopristansky borough.

//www.sadiba.com.ua/forum/showthread.php?t=14904

The vineyard is planted for many years (up to 100 years): the older the bush, the larger and sweeter the berries. Therefore, do not be lazy, do everything as expected, protect the vine from diseases and pests, and the result of your labors will be sweet juicy bunches of grapes.

tt.monarkinsulation.com

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