Get rid of — definition of get rid of by The Free Dictionary

get rid of

dispose of

If you dispose of something that you no longer want or need, you throw it away or give it to someone.

Be Careful!
You must use of after dispose. Don’t say that someone ‘ disposes something ‘.

Dispose is a fairly formal word. In conversation and in less formal writing, you usually say that someone gets rid of something.

Verb 1. get rid of — dispose of; «Get rid of these old shoes!»; «The company got rid of all the dead wood»
2. get rid of — terminate, end, or take out; «Let’s eliminate the course on Akkadian hieroglyphics»; «Socialism extinguished these archaic customs»; «eliminate my debts» 3. get rid of — do away with; «Slavery was abolished in the mid-19th century in America and in Russia»

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How to get rid of Clothes Moths

Moths are a common problem, whether in the closet or the pantry. The ones that prefer clothes, usually feast on fabrics such as wool or silk. Getting rid of them can prove to be quite difficult, and implementing preventive measures is the best way to avoid having to deal with them.
Usually, when summer comes, all the winter clothes get sealed away in a closet and forgotten there for several months. This gives great opportunity to moths of clothes to develop, especially if they have access to coats made out of fur. Swarms of moths usually appear in the summer, and it’s enough that one finds its way into your closet and lay some eggs, and then, your whole wardrobe is compromised. When they hatch, the moth larvae will feed on the cloths they encounter, making it difficult to salvage anything afterwards.

Signs of infestation

The first thing, when dealing with clothes moths, is managing to recognise their presence, so that you can take the correct measures afterwards. Recognising the signs they leave is quite easy, although that means that your cloths have already been affected. If you can see tiny holes in your clothing items, you can be sure that moths are making their way through your wardrobe already. Be sure to check especially clothes made out with wool, feathers, fur, and silk. If your clothes are looking dusty, discoloured or have a dusty smell, that is also a sign of their presence, as is webbing in the corners of your closet.

As they live of Keratine, which is found in natural fibres, such as wool, cashmere, silk or fur, the moths’ larvae are the ones that do all the damage. With a life cycle of 65 to 90 days, a moth can lay up to 40-50 eggs in this period. After they hatch, the larvae start burrowing into the fabric, leaving behind them trails of cobwebs. If you are already seeing flying moths around your house, and it is more than one that got your attention, you can be sure that the infestation is in full effect.


As with any other pests, keeping a good sanitation of the house can do the trick. As they usually prefer dark and humid places, make sure air out the house as much as possible, and also the closet, to make sure you disturb their environment. Take out your clothes and shake them well. By airing them out at least once a month and cleaning and vacuuming the closet thoroughly, you can avoid any further infestations. By doing this, you not only disrupt the dark and moist environment on which the moths thrive, buy you also remove any larvae or eggs that have not hatched yet. Make sure to clean everything in your house, not only your closet. Moths can also eat fabrics from carpets, rugs, cushions, soft toys or upholsters.

Make sure you also clean the shelves and drawers of your closed, paying a lot of attention to any cracks and crevices where eggs or larvae could be hiding. Use soapy water or a mix of water and vinegar to clean the walls of the closet. Make sure you scrub well, so that you remove all the eggs that might be caught in the crevices before mentioned. Also vacuum everything well, from top to bottom, including carpets and the bedroom area, or any other place where moths could have found a o good place to hide. Move your furniture and vacuum everywhere, and then open your windows and air out the room. Circulating air will refresh everything, and moths will not enjoy this, as they prefer warm, musty rooms, with humidity and darkness.

To avoid bringing any other moths in your home and to prevent them from further multiplying, clean your clothes and store them properly. By washing your clothes, you avoid having moths’ larvae develop and adult ones lay more eggs. Dirty clothes are preferred by these insects as they would rather feast on stained or sweaty fabrics. Make sure your clothes are always clean when you place them in the closet, as by washing them you will remove any eggs the moths may have laid. If you can also put them through a hot dryer without damaging them, do that, as high temperatures will further kill any moth larvae or eggs that may have escaped. If drying them like this is not an option, you can place the clothes in a freezer before putting them back in the closet. Keeping them in the freezer for a few days also kills the eggs, so you will thus manage to avoid any further infestations.
Remember to clean out linens and towels as well, but also suitcases, bags and containers, as if they are infested, you can easily get your clothes infested again, just by placing them in a suitcase when traveling.

As mentioned above, the clothing items which are the most in danger are the winter ones. Storing them properly can avoid the development of an infestation. Place the items that you do not wear often, especially the winter ones, in an airtight container. Protect them either with plastic bags, bins or any other plastic type of containers that does not let the air through. By storing them this way, moths will not have access to reach them, and will not develop well either, due to the lack of air.

Natural repellents

When storing clothes inside your closet, you can use different types of natural products that repel moths, thus keeping your closet safe.
By placing pieces of cedar in your closet, you can keep any moths away. They do not like its strong smell, so buying cedar hangers is surely a good investment. Ball shaped pieces can also be hung or placed on the shelves, and sachets with cedar chips are also an option. You can place them among the clothes, or even inside the pockets, for extra protection.

Some other natural repellents are lavender, mint, dried rosemary, thyme, cloves, or bay leaves. They can also be placed in sachets, tied with a string and hung inside the closet. Or, as before mentioned, placed between the clothes for extra protection. You can also use essential oils made from these herbs and spray a mixture made with water in your closet as it will act as an effective deterrent against moths. You can also apply some oil on a cotton ball and put it in the corner of a shelf. You can keep on adding oil on the ball when the smell starts to wear off, thus keeping a constant repellent in your closet.

Traps for Clothes Moths control:

Pheromone traps are other natural repellents that you can use. These are traps which attract and kill the moths with a sticky substance they cannot escape once they touch.

Where Do Ants Hide?

Commonly Infested Areas in the Home

If you’ve ever found ants crawling across the kitchen counter or noticed a trail of little black ants on the bathroom floor, you’re probably not alone. Ants often enter homes during the warmer months in search of water and food, making them the #1 nuisance pest in America. With the summer season upon us, now is the perfect time to learn about the most common ant-infested areas in a home and how to prevent an unwanted infestation.

A recent survey of pest professionals across the country, conducted by the National Pest Management Association, found kitchens (96%) and bathrooms (89%) to be particularly vulnerable to ants.


It’s probably not a surprise the kitchen is considered a favorite ant hangout. In addition to food access, the sink provides a water source that ants need to survive. If you’re lax about immediately cleaning up crumbs and spills, you may be inviting ants in. Here are a few tips to keep ants out of the kitchen:

  • Store sweet staples like sugar, syrup and honey in plastic containers that snap shut, and wipe them down to remove any sticky residue. You can also place a bay leaf inside canisters of dry goods like flour to keep the ants out. The herb’s pungent scent repels ants and other common pantry pests.
  • Clean up grease spills from countertops and floors as soon as they happen.
  • Any empty juice or soda containers should be rinsed out before recycling or throwing away. And, make sure to take the trash out regularly.
  • Check the fruit bowl – any over ripe fruit will attract ants.
  • Keep an eye out for water buildup in the sink and leaks around the faucet.
  • If you have pets, be sure to pick up any leftover food and wash the bowls regularly.


Areas around the house with excess moisture are known to attract ants, so bathrooms are highly susceptible to an infestation. Carpenter ants, for example, often build nests in damp areas like behind bathroom tiles or under sinks. To prevent an infestation in the bathroom, homeowners should:

  • Occasionally, inspect sinks, toilets and tubs for any leaks or drips.
  • Give the bathroom a thorough cleaning by scrubbing the floors with disinfectant cleaner, and wiping down the inside of drawers with warm soapy water.
  • Check to ensure shampoo, lotion and soap bottles are secured and no contents have spilled out of their containers.

Other Common Hideouts

Ants can easily find a way indoors through even the tiniest cracks, so other areas of the home are also common hideouts. The NPMA survey revealed ants are also found in the following areas:

  • Inside walls (73%)
  • Bedrooms (61%)
  • Living rooms (60%)
  • Basements (54%)
  • Air conditioning and heating units (37%)

To keep ants from finding a way inside, homeowners should pest-proof around the outside of the home. Experts recommend sealing any cracks with silicone caulk, repairing holes in window and door screens, replacing weather-stripping, fixing loose mortar around the basement foundation and windows, and keeping tree branches trimmed back and away from the house.

Ants are considered one of the most difficult pests to control, along with bed bugs, because colonies often contain upwards of thousands of members. If you notice ants inside the home, it’s important to contact a licensed pest professional to inspect and treat the problem. For more information, watch this video on areas in the home that ants typically infest.

Can Pests Transmit Coronavirus?

Now that winter has passed, it’s important to note that coronavirus is not spread by vector pests.

How to Select, Arrange, and Plant Flowers in a Planting Bed

A Sample Flower Bed

The most important step to planting a new flower bed is to visualize the future. While your bed might not look like much when it’s first planted, in a few months it will be much fuller, taller, and more colorful. The key is anticipating the heights, colors, textures, and mass of all the various plants.

The sample flower bed shown in this example consists of two rows of annuals and perennials in the front and a staggered row of taller plants (mainly shrubs) in the back. Even though everything is pretty much the same height when the bed is planted, eventually the background plants will greatly surpass everything else in size.

The strategy here is to create a backdrop of tall plants in the back of the flower bed, which creates a «canvas» for the rest of the arrangement. This is a technique known as «layering.» In the context of planting flower beds, «layering» means you put the tallest flower bed plants in the back, the shortest in the front row, and the remaining plants in between. A nicely layered flower bed provides maximum visual appeal when all the plants mature.

While it’s possible to start with a greater visual impact by selecting more mature shrubs, larger plants cost much more, and nurturing plants from a tender age (or from seed) is half the fun of flower gardening. The small shrubs in our sample bed are available at a very good price in most areas. In addition to the mature height, the plants were selected with the following considerations:

  • The flower bed is a very sunny location, calling for sun plants. Planning for a shady garden would obviously call for different choices.
  • It features some perennials, flowers including some perennials that bloom all summer. In general, anchoring a flower garden with perennials will help form the structure of the garden, and over time, they will fill in and gradually reduce the planting chores of filling in with annuals.
  • The plants offer interesting textures. Color is not the only consideration in planning a garden; texture and shape should also be considered. Though we haven’t used them here, small shrubs can be an excellent way to introduce textures into a planting bed
  • The color scheme is blue-purple-gold, which are complementary colors. Other complementary pairs are red and green, and yellow and violet. Other ways of planning color would be to use harmonious colors—those adjacent to one another on the color wheel—or a monochromatic scheme, in which all colors are subtle variations of the same color.

Choosing Colors and Textures

Unless you’re striving for the sort of wild, chaotic look that typifies English cottage gardens, it’s a good idea to have a color scheme in mind when planting flower beds. The color scheme in our sample flower bed is created with plants with blue, purple, and gold flowers.

Also consider the plants’ foliage, not just its flowers. For example, you can kill two birds with one stone by using iris, such as Iris pallida ‘Aureo-Variegata’. Its flower provides purple color, while its variegated leaves inject a light gold color. In addition, its large, spear-shaped leaves make for a nice contrast of textures with the other plants.

The background shrubs add some complementary yellow/gold tones. Emerald ‘n Gold euonymus shrub has the colors of gold and green on the same leaf; like the iris, it is a variegated plant. Similarly, Moonshadow euonymus would work here, as well.

Other touches of gold color are offered by golden moneywort, Angelina stonecrop plants, and a King’s Gold false cypress shrub.

Removing Grass

If you are creating a flower bed from scratch in an area currently covered with grass, you must first remove the sod. One effective technique is to use a standard pointed shovel to cut out the sod in chunks (about 4 inches deep x 10 inches wide x 10 inches long). Then, lay the shovel on its side, with the blade perpendicular to the ground, and pound the sod against the shovel’s blade. This removes most of the soil from the sod so that it is not wasted. Dispose of the sod by placing it in your compost bin.

Speaking of compost, it’s time to add some to the soil now that the sod is out of the way. Compost increases the soil’s fertility, and by working compost into the ground, you’ll also be loosening the soil, making it more friable. If your soil type is clayey, add peat moss as an additional soil amendment.

Installing a Weed Barrier

Weed barriers are meant to be used in conjunction with garden mulch. Mulch helps hold the weed barrier in place, shields it from harmful UV rays, and hides it from view. The best weed barrier for a garden bed is a woven landscape fabric. Unlike the sheets of black plastic often used, woven weed barriers permit air, water, and nutrients to penetrate down to the soil to reach your plants. In addition to garden mulch, you can use garden staples to hold weed barriers in place. Staples are especially helpful on planting beds set at a slope.

Installing Plants

After laying down the weed barrier, plants are added simply by cutting X-shaped slits in the fabric. Just lay your plants down on the fabric, mark their location, then use a utility knife or garden shears to cut the slits. Pull the mulch from the planting area and slice through the weed barrier (without actually cutting any of it off), fold back the flaps of fabric, dig your hole, and lower the plant’s root-ball into the ground.

It’s possible to install the plants first, then fit in weed barriers afterward, but fitting a weed barrier around existing plants generally proves to be harder. And by mulching before planting, you’re getting a lot of the heavy lifting out of the way first, with no fear of backing over a plant with your wheelbarrow.

Use Low Plants for the Front Row

The front row of the sample flower bed features ‘Festuca Blue’ fescue grass (Festuca ovina ‘Glauca’), also known as ‘Elijah Blue’ fescue grass (Festuca [ovina var.] glauca ‘Elijah Blue’), and ‘a form of stonecrop known as Sedum rupestra ‘Angelina.’ These plants work nicely with the blue-purple-gold color scheme, with the blue fescue grass bearing bluish-gray foliage, and the Angelina stonecrop offering golden-green foliage.

Blue fescue grass is an ornamental grass that is easy enough to trim, should it outgrow the place chosen for it. Angelina stonecrop is a trailing plant. Incidentally, this perennial is also an excellent choice for rock gardens, as it is a drought-tolerant perennial.

Use Medium-Height Plants for the Middle Row

The middle row of the sample flower bed consists largely of different perennial salvia plants. Although each salvia plant in this row is different, all conform to the overall color scheme, providing either blue or purple flowers. Also included is another purple-flowered specimen: a speedwell that is somewhat similar in appearance to a salvia plant. All the specimens in this row will reach an intermediate height (shorter than those in the back row, but taller than those in the front).

The five specimens that comprise the middle row:

Use the Tallest Plants for the Back Row

The «back» row of our sample flower bed includes three staggered rows, consisting of:

  • An iris and Blue Star juniper (Juniperus squamata ‘Blue Star’)
  • A King’s Gold cypress (Chamaecyparis pisifera ‘King’s Gold’)
  • Two Emerald ‘n Gold euonymus shrubs (Euonymus fortunei ‘Emerald ‘n Gold’)

The latter two are the tallest plants, reaching a mature height of 3 to 4 feet, and all fit into the blue-purple-gold color scheme. While landscape designers typically recommend grouping plants of the same type together for a sense of sense of unity, a unified design may not be your primary goal. Instead, you may simply want to grow particular plants that interest you and arrange them more individually.

Add a Focal Point

If your bed needs a little something extra as a finishing touch, you can add a focal point that puts an exclamation point on your color scheme. In our sample garden, a ceramic planter adds a tall blue element, and it holds a trailing moneywort plant with golden foliage that will cascade over the blue piece and stand out against it.

Golden moneywort (Lysimachia nummularia ‘Aurea’) is listed as a plant for partial sun or full shade. Because the bed gets a lot of sun, it’s best to keep the moneywort in a container, in case it needs to come out of the sun during hot, sunny weather. But chances are it will do just fine, as moneywort isn’t too fussy.

What keeps ticks away from dogs?

Protecting Your Dog from Fleas and Ticks

Mix 7 drops of lemon eucalyptus oil into a 32-oz spray bottle filled with distilled water.

Apply to your dog’s bedding or spray lightly between your dog’s shoulder blades to keep pests away.

Because it dehydrates insects, this is an effective solution against ticks, fleas and other pests.

How to Get Rid of Ticks (4 Easy Steps)

Related Questions

Does Listerine keep ticks away?

“Fill it up to the neck of the spray bottle with Listerine, a little bit of water, spray it over your clothing a little bit before you go out. It will help repel the ticks. “So, really, it takes about 48 to 96 hours for the bacteria that lives in the mouth parts of the tick to actually get into your system.

Will vinegar keep ticks away?

Vinegar itself does not kill ticks; however, it can be used to help remove the ticks once they have burrowed into the skin. Fill a cup with undiluted, white distilled vinegar. Ticks hate the smell of vinegar and most of them will back out of the skin in order to get away from it.

Does Lyme keep ticks away?

Stop Ticks to Avoid Lyme and Other Tickborne Diseases. Ticks carry germs that can cause Lyme disease and Rocky Mountain spotted fever. In addition to using repellents, check for ticks and shower after being outdoors to reduce your chance of getting a tickborne disease.

Do Hawks Eat Birds? Yes!

Protect Backyard Birds With These Easy Tips

A soaring hawk can be majestic to see over the yard, but some of the glamour is lost when birders realize hawks eat birds and may be hunting favorite backyard species. Many birders prefer to protect their backyard birds from hawks rather than contribute to a predator’s meals. While it may not be possible to completely prevent hawks from visiting a yard, there are many easy ways to give backyard birds an edge over aerial predators without harming any birds, including the hunting hawks.

Hawks in the Yard

The most common backyard hawks are all smaller birds of prey: the sharp-shinned hawk, the Cooper’s hawk, and the American kestrel in North America, as well as similar species in other parts of the world. While it is possible that larger hawks will visit yards and gardens to hunt, these species are fast, agile fliers that are well adapted to flying around feeders, buildings, and trees to catch small, panicked birds.

It is important to remember that even though it may be disheartening to see a songbird or dove fall victim to a hawk, the hawks are only playing their role in nature’s cycle. They do not kill more birds than needed to survive, and in fact, studies estimate that only 10 percent of a hawk’s kills are successful. Of those successful hunts, the majority of the birds a hawk takes are old, weak, or sick and removing them from the flock will help strengthen the remaining birds. Because of this, some birders prefer to encourage backyard hawks and take steps to deliberately attract them.

Protecting Backyard Birds From Hawks

Backyard birders who prefer to offer the most possible protection for their resident flocks have several options to foil a hawk’s hunt without causing harm or stress to the raptor.

  • Shelter: Providing natural cover for small birds is the best way to protect them from hawk attacks. Dense trees, thick shrubbery, and brush piles are all suitable options. Shelter should be within 10 feet of bird feeders so small birds can reach it quickly when they feel threatened. To make landscaping do double duty, choose plants that provide seeds or fruits for the birds and they will be able to feed under cover and in complete safety.
  • Shield Feeders: Place bird feeders in covered areas such as under an awning, gazebo, umbrella, or lower tree branches where the canopy will prevent hawks from seeing available prey. Alternatively, covered platform feeders can provide some visual shielding from circling hawks.
  • Avoid Ground Feeding: Birds that feed on the ground, such as doves, quail, and sparrows, are more vulnerable to hawk attacks. They cannot react as quickly to a predator and their options are limited as to where to go. Avoid low feeders or feeding birds on the ground to minimize a hawk’s success.
  • Remove Hawk Vantage Points: Hawks will often stake out suitable hunting grounds and wait for unwary prey to approach. To make your yard less inviting, remove dead branches that a hawk may perch on, or choose fencing they will not be comfortable with, such as thin wires that can be difficult for larger birds to grasp.
  • Remove Hawk Food Sources: There are many things birds of prey eat in addition to small birds. Removing additional food sources such as field rodents or large insects will make the hunting ground less attractive, but only use extermination methods that will not harm birds: poisons and glue traps should never be used. At the same time, store birdseed properly so you are not inadvertently feeding rodents.
  • Cage Feeders: Choose bird feeder designs that include wire cages that protect perches and feeding ports, or build a cage around existing feeders. This will allow small birds to access the food in relative security since larger birds, including hawks, will not be able to reach them. While this will not prevent small birds from panicking at a hawk’s approach, it will help give them a moment or two to flee while slowing down the hawk.
  • Protect Windows: Use decals and other methods to prevent window collisions by panicked birds. When a hawk attacks, small birds will mistakenly fly into windows and a stunned bird is easy prey. At the same time, this will also help protect the hawks from dangerous window collisions in mid-hunt.
  • Remove Feeders: If hawks are still a menace to backyard birds, remove all feeders and stop feeding the birds for a week or two. After a few days, the hawk will move on to different hunting grounds but the smaller birds will quickly return when you resume feeding. The hawk may return as well, but generally it will take longer for a hawk to rediscover a good hunting area.

Tactics to Avoid

It can be frustrating to contend with aggressive birds of prey, but there are certain tactics that should always be avoided when discouraging hawks. Under no circumstances should birders ever try to shoot, trap, poison, or otherwise harm birds of prey, which are protected by many federal and state laws. Similarly, do not release cats or dogs in an attempt to scare a hawk away. Cats and dogs will not usually attack birds as large as hawks, and the pets themselves may become victims to larger birds of prey. Furthermore, cats and dogs are just as likely to kill, stress, or disturb the backyard birds you hope to protect.

When Hawks Won’t Leave

If a particularly aggressive hawk refuses to leave your yard and becomes a threat to pets or humans, contact local wildlife management or animal control officials. It is possible that the bird is injured and unable to hunt in more difficult areas, or it may be nesting nearby. Either way, only licensed officials should make that determination and they will be able to either remove the bird without harming it or can offer additional advice on protecting backyard birds from hawks in safe and responsible ways.

See also:  Expanded Access
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