DVT Prevention & Home Care: How To Prevent Deep Vein Thrombosis

How to Prevent Deep Vein Thrombosis (DVT)


Articles On Deep Vein Thrombosis

Deep Vein Thrombosis

Deep Vein Thrombosis — How to Prevent Deep Vein Thrombosis (DVT)

A DVTВ is a blood clot that forms deep in your veins, most often in your leg. It can partially or completely blockВ bloodВ flow back to theВ heartВ and damage the one-way valves in your veins. It can also break free and travel to major organs, such as yourВ lungs, which can be very dangerous. Among people in the United States who have DVT, about 1 in 10 die fromВ DVT complications.

About 350,000 Americans are diagnosed with theseВ blood clotsВ each year, and almost as many have them and don’t know it. Even if you’re at risk, you can take steps toВ prevent DVT. Some simple actions include:

  • Lose weight.
  • Exercise.
  • Don’t stay still for long periods — move every 2 hours or so when you’re on a plane or long car trip.
  • Wear loose clothes and drink lots of water when you travel.

Everyday Living and Medical Conditions

  • Exerciseregularly — daily, if possible. Walking,В swimming, and bicycling are all great activities.В ExerciseВ will also help you manage yourВ weight, and so will eating a low-fat, high-fiber diet with lots of vegetables and fruits.
  • If you smoke, quit! Nicotine patches, gums, or sprays and prescriptionВ medications, along with support groups, can make kicking the habit easier.
  • Check yourВ blood pressureat least once a year; more often if your doctor says to. Follow his instructions about taking medication if you need it. Exercise, eating well, and quittingВ smoking will help control your blood pressure, too.
  • Tell your doctor:
  • В About anyВ blood-clotting problems you or a close family member has had
  • If you’re onВ birth control pills, hormone replacement therapy, or areВ pregnantВ

After Surgery or While on Bed Rest

Your surgeon will let you know if blood clots could be a problem for you. Sometimes, the risk is greatest right after surgery and for about 10 days afterward. Or you may get a DVT because you’re less active in the months after the procedure.

Your doctor may prescribeВ blood thinners, also called anticoagulants:


When you’re in the operating room, local anesthesia that numbs just the area the doctor is working on might be better than general anesthesia that knocks you out. You may want to wear compression sleeves on your legs to help keep your blood flowing.

During recovery, raise the foot of your bed so it’s taller than the pillow end. Don’t use pillows under your legs. Do any exercises, such as leg lifts and ankle movements, that your doctor recommends. Take your pain medicine to make it easier. Get out of bed and start ramping up your activity as soon as you can safely.

When Traveling

On flights longer than 4 hours, get up and move around. Take the opportunity to walk and stretch between connecting flights, too.

When you’re traveling by car, stop every hour to walk around.

If you’re stuck in your seat, work the muscles in your legs often throughout your trip:

  • Stretch your legs.
  • Flex your feet.
  • Curl or press your toes down.

Drink plenty of fluids, but avoid coffee and alcohol. They’ll dehydrate you, which makes your veins narrower and blood thicker, so you’re more likely to get a clot.

Don’t wear short, tight socks, and try not to cross your legs a lot. You might want to wearВ compression stockings. They’ll help your blood flow and keep swelling down.


American Heart Association: «Venous Thromboembolism & Pulmonary Embolism — Statistics.»

Goldhaber, S. Circulation, 2002.

American Academy of Orthopaedic Surgeons: «Deep Vein Thrombosis.»

American Academy of Family Physicians: «Deep Vein Thrombosis: What You Should Know.»

Society for Vascular Surgery: «Deep Vein Thrombosis (DVT).»

FDA: «Avoid Deep Vein Thrombosis: Keep the Blood Flowing.»

National Center for Biotechnology Information: «Deep Vein Thrombosis and Pulmonary Embolism as Major Public Health Problems.»

Sutter Health: “Preventing Blood Clots at Home.”


Garden in spring: How to spray trees and shrubs, and most importantly — when?

Important in the fight against plant diseases and pests is the spring garden treatment. Since at this time it is possible to destroy pests in the embryo, as well as to prevent the propagation of harmful bacteria and fungi to the maximum, stop the spread of viruses.

Many naively believe that a single spray will be enough. But this is not so. Comprehensive measures are required, including processing with special preparations of fruit and berry shrubs and trees in at least four stages.

In this article I will tell about popular remedies and preparations, and step by step I will give instructions on the competent preparation of the garden in the spring months.

Step 1. Inspection and stripping

In the very early spring, preferably before the snow melts, inspect your garden and conduct the following activities:

1.1. Inspect the state of fruit tree trunks for peeling of the bark. Clean the damaged areas with a wire brush,

Step 1. Preparing the garden in the spring — inspection and cleaning

1.2. Inspect the condition of the branches of berry bushes. In early spring, before the buds swell, spill the near-stem part of the bushes with boiling water (+ 70-90 ° С,),

1.3. Identify the presence of nests of wintering insects, large cracks, hollows are usually used to lay eggs of harmful insects in the winter. It is necessary to clean and eliminate all this (burn).

Step 2. Cropping

Pruning is carried out in early spring, before the sap flow of plants begins. It is necessary:

2.1. Conduct either a sanitary or aesthetic pruning of the crowns of trees and shrubs,

2.2. Buy a new good secateurs — the main tool for a gardener,

2.3. It is necessary to use a well-sharpened garden tool — secateurs and delimbers, to prevent biting twigs and torn pruning,

Step 2. Preparing the garden in spring — pruning

2.4. Treated with trim garden trim. Aerosolized garden var is currently being produced, which makes it convenient to use.

Garden treatment of open areas of plants

Step 3. Plant residue

3.1. The main cleaning of fallen sheets must be carried out in the fall, do not leave in the winter. Fertilized female insect pests go into the soil and winter there under fallen leaves, plant debris, falling into the diapause, withstanding temperatures up to -30 ° С. Abandoned foliage and litter is also a favorable wintering environment for rodents

3.2. In the spring, carefully remove the remains of foliage, cut and fallen branches.

Step 4. Digging in trunks

This is the traditional spring stage of compulsory work, which makes it possible to improve soil aeration in a simple way. It is carried out immediately after thawing. If digging is carried out together with plant residues, as supporters of organic farming leave leaves, grass, hay in near-stem circles, they must be treat with carbamide (urea) 0.5 kg. for 10 liters water or a bacterial drug that accelerates the maturation of compost, otherwise they will become a hotbed of pests.

Step 5. Whitewashing

5.1. Whitewashing should be carried out in autumn in order to protect against fungal infection, lichens, and pest larvae. In spring, whitewashing is carried out to a greater extent with an aesthetic and preventive purpose.

Step 5. Preparing the garden in the spring — whitewashing

5.2. For whitewashing use a special garden whitewash, which includes fungicides and adhesive additives. Available in dry form or in the form of a paste, which is diluted with water before use. Recently popular acrylic garden painthaving moisture protective properties and allowing to stay longer on trees. The composition of acrylic whitewash also contains active substances and fungicides.

Using Garden Whitewash

5.3. Previously used lime for these purposes. Home-made mixture for whitewashing was made of lime, water, clay and copper sulphate. Today, gardeners refuse this composition, because lime due to alkaline properties causes serious harm to the bark of the tree, and together with insects and larvae destroys the natural protective layer — the bark. In the future, the tree becomes even more vulnerable.

Using garden acrylic paint

Step 6. Chemical (insect-acaricidal) treatment

Allocate FOUR stages of spring treatments — see table

Stages The timing Purpose of The drug (optional)
Stage 1 Before swelling of the kidneys (daily t + 3-5 ° C) — The destruction of overwintered insects — The drug «30 Plus»,
— diesel fuel
2 stage The beginning of budding (daily t + 12-17 ° C) — The fight against diseases caused by fungal infection (coccomycosis, moniliosis, scab, anthracnose, etc.),
— Destruction of bud mites, weevil larvae, apple moth, etc.
— Bordeaux liquid,
— Iron / copper sulfate,
— Tar / Tar soap,
Coming soon/ Chorus / Strobes.
— Nitrafen,
— Broad-spectrum insecticides.
3 stage Before flowering — Treatment for the prevention and improvement of immunity to fungal diseases, — Fight against the codling moth, scab and spotting. — Bordeaux liquid,
— Copper sulfate,
— Karbofos,
4th stage After flowering — Destruction of the pest complex — colloidal sulfur,
— Preparations of a wide spectrum of action

Stage 1 «Spraying before swelling of the kidneys»

The first spraying of trees is carried out in the garden, when night air temperatures are slightly above zero, and daytime temperatures in the region of + 3-5 ° C, active sap flow did not begin and the buds did not yet begin to swell.

The first treatment is the most important, it cannot be missed in any way — firstly, it acts on the larvae in the germ and not yet active insects, and secondly, it is possible to use drugs in their maximum concentration.

At this stage, tree trunks are treated with special drugs on mineral oil base.

An effective drug currently actively used is drug «30 Plus». The action is based on the fact that, firstly, enveloping a thin oil film of an insect and a larva leads to suffocation, and secondly, the drug dissolves the chitin from which all insects and their eggs consist, which also leads to their death.

There is a folk analogue of this drug — diesel fuel. Yes, it is the well-known diesel fuel for everyone! Spraying with diesel oil also provides coverage of tree trunks and shrubs with an oily film. The effect is the same, at a lower financial cost.

Stage 2 «Spraying during the budding of the kidneys»

Treatment at this stage is aimed at preventing diseases caused by fungal infection — coccomycosis, moniliosis, scab, anthracnose, etc. For this, carbamide (urea), copper sulfate, Bordeaux liquid, tar soap are used.

And from insect pests, universal chemical insecticides are used. For example:

  • Apple trees, cherries, cherries, plums, apricots, peaches can be processed with Angio preparations or Chorus (bag of 10 liters of water).
  • Grapes can be sprayed with Hom, Bordeaux liquid, Topaz (12 ml per 10 l) from powdery mildew, or iron sulphate.
  • For raspberries and currants, preference is given to drugs Aktara or Actellic.

It is described in more detail on the use of specific preparations for processing fruit trees in the following table:

Preparations for insect-acaricidal treatment of the garden in the spring

Stage 3 «Spraying before flowering»

Immediately before flowering, orchards are usually treated for caterpillars of the apple codling moth, scab and spotting. At this stage, it uses a wide spectrum of insect acaricides (Fitoverm, Iskra, Karbofos, Chorus, «Tobit Jet»Angio Aktara, etc.).

Effective 10% solution «Karbofos» with a single treatment (70 g. Per 10 liters of water). In a separate article “Known — Unknown Karbofos: what you need to know when using ”features of its application are considered.

During flowering, plants are not treated, it is detrimental to bees, and can adversely affect the pollination of flowers.

Timing: When to spray trees and shrubs in spring

The exact date when you can start sprayingno one will say. Theoretically, you can spray the garden at the end of March. During this time, during the daytime, the temperature can rise to 10 degrees Celsius, and pests will wake up at a temperature of 5-6 degrees Celsius. In addition, pathogens of fungal diseases (rot, scab, moniliosis) begin to spread early. But processing at the end of March may turn out to be ineffective, because wet snow can still fall, drizzle, and the product will quickly wash off. It is best to wait for drier, more stable weather — in April.

Usually, fruit trees in the spring garden sprayed in two terms:

  • BEFORE swelling / blooming of the kidneys (primarily from diseases),
  • DURING budding in the green cone phase (primarily from pests, as well as from diseases).

1. The first spraying

When to spray? At the stage of closed, sleeping buds, as they say, “along a bare tree”, when there are no signs of awakening on it yet. At this time, spores of fungal diseases can already begin to fly apart. It is believed that it is advisable to carry out processing when the average daily air temperature reaches 5 degrees Celsius.

Than? The first spraying is carried out from diseases, because the insects have not yet had time to activate — they simply have nothing to eat (the kidneys have not opened). Spraying will protect the garden from various types of rot, moniosis of stone fruit crops, and scab on apple trees and pears. The following preparations are used: Bordeaux mixture 3%, urea, iron sulfate, copper sulfate, copper-containing preparations Khom, Oksikhom, fungicides Horus, Skor, Farmayod, Abiga-peak, Nitrafen, Rayek and insecticides «30 plus», «Profilactin».

Before the kidneys are opened, treatment against the wintering stages of the pests is relevant, and here the modern drugs “30 plus” and “Prophylactin” come to the rescue, as well as the proven complex tool “Nitrafen”, which works against pests and diseases.

See also:  May Beetles (June Bugs), MDC Discover Nature

2. Second spraying

When to spray? On a green cone, when the kidneys have already burst, but the leaves have not yet begun to unfold. It is very important not to miss this phase, since the apple flower beetle (weevil) is activated.

Than? Insecticides against pests are used: Spark, Intavir, Tanrek, Kinmiks, Fufanon, Decis Profi. It is possible to carry out treatment with fungicides for diseases: Bordeaux mixture 1%, Horus, Skor, Oksikhom. It is only important to consider that the drug Horus works well in cool weather and is more suitable for the first treatment, and Skor is more effective at temperatures above 5 degrees Celsius.

You can spray fruit trees 2 more times: at the stage of the pink bud (not over flowering plants) and over the ovaries, the size of a pea, against the apple moth and moniliosis (second wave). For spraying, Spark and Intavir, Decis, Horus, as well as biological products Fitoverm and Bitoksibacillin (work at temperatures above 14 degrees) are suitable.

It is necessary to spray not only branches, but also the trunk and even the trunk circle. Processing are fruit trees, stone fruit crops and berry shrubs.

Currants and raspberries It is also better to process in the early stages, without waiting for the swelling of the kidneys. First of all, you can go to collect tick-borne buds (they are round, and healthy — elongated), they can be distinguished even in winter. A tick wakes up at an average daily temperature of 5 degrees heat. The kidneys need to be collected and burned. The twisted shoots that were affected by aphids last year are also cut and burned.

Spraying in the early stages, while still cool enough, can be acaricidal anti-tick drugs: Teovit-jet, Kleschevit, Akarin, Actellik. At temperatures above 12 degrees Celsius, the Fitoverm biological product is used.

On swollen buds, before the leaves bloom, they are sprayed with insecticides: Spark, Decis Profi, Tanrek. To prevent powdery mildew, currants are sprayed with copper-containing preparations (Bordeaux mixture, chorus, chom, oxychom, scorum), when the leaves have already begun to bloom — at the end of May.

Raspberries are also treated with fungicidal copper-containing preparations until the leaves bloom — against diseases, against pests — with the above insecticides.

Before buds open, currants and gooseberries infected with anthracnose or powdery mildew are sprayed with nitrafen, karbofos or Bordeaux liquid.

Attention! The drugs are sprayed with garden sprayers in calm weather in the morning or in the evening.

Stage 4 «Spraying after flowering»

Immediately after flowering, the trees process the fourth final time of spring gardening. Broad-spectrum insecticides and fungicides (e.g. colloidal sulfur) In a separate article, “Colloidal Sulfur / Cumulus — Super Fungicide”, the features of its application are considered.

Spring garden treatment for pests and diseases

And what will the lunar calendar 2019 say .

Most printed sources indicate that spraying trees and shrubs can start in late March — early April. And if you look into Lunar calendar for 2019, in it, among other works on caring for plants, it was recommended to spray trees in the garden at the beginning of March (too early, of course, but such information does exist):

  • March 3, 4, 8, 9, 13, 14, 17, 18, 19, 25, 26, 27, 30, 31 — spraying of trees and shrubs from diseases and pests.
  • March 17, 18, 19, 25, 26, 27, 30, 31 — spraying plants from diseases and pests.
  • March 14, 17, 25, treatment of currants and gooseberries with hot water.
  • April 1, 9, 10, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 22, 23, 26, 27, 28, April — spraying the garden against diseases and pests,
  • April 9 — treatment of currants and gooseberries with hot water.
  • May 1, 2, 6, 7, 8, 19, 20, 25, 30 — treatment of the garden from diseases and pests,

Conclusions and recommendations

  1. Spray the trees completely, start from the crown, finish the basal part of the trunk,
  2. Prepare a working solution based on the calculation of 5-6 liters per adult tree, 1-1.5 liters. on the bush
  3. Use personal protective equipment,
  4. To carry out processing in not rainy and calm weather. The minimum waiting period is 3-4 days. If it rains, then repeat the treatment.
  5. Use universal drugs to protect against a complex of pests,
  6. To be interested in and use new drugs, give preference to biological drugs (The drug «30 Plus», «Fitoverm», etc.)
  7. And the most important thing is not to miss the time and spend on time all the stages of early spring processing.

*** Changes and additions made 08.08.2019.

Means: How to spray the garden in the spring?

And now let’s go over the means that are used to spray trees and shrubs in the spring, we divided them into two groups: traditional and modern. In the description of each product, we also highlight the recommended processing time.


Traditionally, in gardening, a concentrated urea solution is used to treat the garden in early spring. Printing sources offer different dosages: 500 g, 600 g or 700 g of urea per 10 liters of water. Accordingly, at the output we get a 5%, 6% or 7% solution. In our summer cottage for early spring spraying, we use urea. As a result, a rich and healthy harvest of apples, pears, cherries (almost always). The best result is the use of a complex solution: 700 g of urea per 10 liters of water + 50 g of copper sulfate. BEFORE budding.


A traditional, effective and universal remedy.In the first half of April, a solution of iron vitriol (300 g per 10 liters of water) can be sprayed on trees on bare branches and trunks — this will destroy the pests. A solution of a lower concentration is used in the fall after the leaves from the apple tree, pear and plum have fallen: 100 g of vitriol are dissolved in 10 l of water. Also, lichens on trunks are treated with a 3% solution of iron sulfate (300 g per 10 liters of water). BEFORE budding.

Blue vitriol

1% solution of copper sulfate (100 g per 10 l of water) is effective against fungal diseases, mold and some pests. It is often used for spraying fruit trees and berry bushes in order to prevent fungal diseases in the spring before buds open. The solution is effective against the causative agents of scab, moniliosis, klyasterosporioz, coccomycosis, anthracosis, septoria and all kinds of spotting.

Modern gardeners prefer to use copper sulfate in spring as part of a Bordeaux mixture or urea solution.

Bordeaux mixture

Old as the world means. To spray the garden in early spring BEFORE the buds open, a concentrated 3% solution is used, and in the phase of the green cone, only 1% solution of the Bordeaux mixture is used. Details on the preparation of the solution were discussed in the article: «How to make Bordeaux liquid?»


Against pests in the wintering stage, while the buds are not yet swollen in spring, fruit trees are sprayed with 3% m Nitrafen solution (300 g per 10 liters of water), and shrubs with 2% m solution (200 g per 10 liters). The drug works on fruit trees, currants, gooseberries and raspberries. In addition to the trunk and branches, the drug is sprayed on the soil in the trunk circles. Read Review of Nitrafen.


The drug «Kemifos» in a dosage of 5 ml per 10 liters of water is used against a complex of pests on stone fruit and fruit crops, on berry bushes. Processing is best done in the morning or evening hours.


In early spring, before budding, when the average daily temperature reaches +4 degrees, you can spray fruit trees and berry bushes with the drug “Prophylactin”. The solution destroys the pests before they even get out of hibernation.

Copper-containing preparations

Hom and Oksikhom are used both for the first (before budding), and for the second spraying (green cone phase). The solution is prepared according to the instructions.

Fungicides and Insecticides

For spraying before budding, the following are also used: fungicides (from diseases) Horus, Skor, Farmayod, Abiga-pik, Rayek, insecticides (from pests) “30 plus”, “Profilactin”.

When the kidneys have already burst, but the leaves have not yet begun to unfold, insecticides (against pests) are used: Spark, Intavir, Tanrek, Kinmiks, Fufanon, Decis Profi, fungicides (from diseases) Horus, Skor, Oksikhom.


For spring spraying, a solution of sodium chloride is also used: 1 kg per 10 liters of water. It is believed that this solution is necessary to start sap flow.

Hot shower

Immediately after the snow melts, but the buds have not yet blossomed, they heat the currant and gooseberry bushes: they are poured with hot water from a watering can (80 degrees) at the rate of 8-10 liters per 1 bush. This method allows you to destroy wintering pests.

So, there are a huge amount of funds for spraying trees and shrubs. And the processing time will largely depend on the chosen drug. Experienced gardeners recommend focusing on the state of nature: the snow has almost melted, the temperatures are already positive, but the buds have not woken up yet — it’s time to start spraying. In total in the spring it is possible to treat the garden at least 4 times (in summer conditions), because different pests and diseases are activated at different times.

Why and when to treat the garden

In the supermarket, in the market you can find a lot of fruits. But, their quality leaves much to be desired. This is due to the fact that in order to improve fruit growth, tree productivity, respectively, to obtain greater benefits, manufacturers feed plants with fertilizers or chemicals. Therefore, it is better to grow fruit yourself and eat only healthy fresh fruits.

But, their growing process is not easy. Every year it is required to treat the trees from pests and diseases in the spring. For the destruction of parasites, experienced summer residents use various means, most often chemical or organic. But, not always these methods bring the desired effect. This is due to the fact that they are carried out at the wrong time. It is best to start work in the spring, as soon as the winter frosts subside, the snow begins to melt.

Stages and timing of spraying

Terms for processing garden plants are different for each region of the country. The first spraying is required when the air temperature during the day does not drop below 5 degrees Celsius, and at night below 0 degrees. But, this procedure should not end. Be sure to spray the trees 3 more times: before budding, the appearance of flowers and the first fruits.

Why and when is it best to carry out spring gardening

Many of us want to eat only the freshest, natural berries and fruits. To do this, we are ready to work excessively on our sites in order to personally grow a high-quality crop. But, unfortunately, in recent years, lovers of summer residents are increasingly pestering all sorts of parasites and diseases that breed and develop exponentially.

To combat them, it is necessary to apply chemical and organic treatment of the spring garden. It depends directly on the skills and degree of professionalism of gardeners: whether the care done will be able to preserve and increase the yield of garden fruits. Only these actions are desirable to carry out regularly and in a timely manner. It is necessary to start immediately after the retreat of the cold and continue during flowering and fruit set.

First spraying

The first spraying of trees in spring should be carried out even when they are in a calm state. That is, until the moment when the kidneys have already blossomed on them and the process of sap flow has begun. Only in this case, during processing, the plant is not able to absorb toxic toxic substances. Therefore, at this stage it is recommended to use potent substances that can kill parasites. To eliminate and prevent the formation of surface pests and bacteria, it is required:

  1. Dilute in 10 liters of water 2 kilograms of lime.
  2. To stir thoroughly.
  3. Optionally add 1 kilogram of dry clay or 350 grams of copper sulfate to the resulting solution.
  4. Re-mix thoroughly all contents until smooth.

A solution for treating trees from surface parasites or fungus is ready. In early spring, it is required to distribute it with a thin layer along the trunk of a fruitful plant or at the base of the branches. It is especially necessary to process cracks, since, most often, pest larvae accumulate there.

An alternative to the folk remedy is acrylic whitewash, paints or lime paste. Their cost is slightly higher than the cost of self-preparation of the solution, but it is more effective and convenient to use.

Stages of spring garden treatment from both pests and diseases

Experienced summer residents recommend working on the garden in the morning until 10 o’clock, or in the evening, after six, so that the spring sun does not damage the leaves. The whole process of spring care is divided into the following stages:

  • in early spring,
  • before buds open in trees and bushes,
  • before and after the flowering process,
  • during the appearance of ovaries on the fruit.

Now we will examine in detail how spring treatment of the garden affects parasites, the course of diseases, and also learn how to conduct its stages correctly.

Before budding

Repeated spraying should be done immediately before the buds have blossomed. It is, as it were, a fixing result. If larvae still hatched after the initial treatment, then they can become the causative agent of various diseases for trees and shrubs. To avoid this, repeated spraying is required. To do this:

  1. Finely chop the tobacco so that it is a powdery consistency.
  2. Pour 200 grams of this substance into a glass jar with a volume of 3 liters.
  3. Add the husk of garlic, onion, needles and chopped orange peels in equal quantities to the container.
  4. Heat the water to a temperature of 70 degrees and fill it with the entire contents of the can.
  5. Close the jar tightly and place it in a dark and cool place for two weeks.

The spray agent is ready. Before applying it to a tree trunk, you need to dilute it with 10 liters of water and add 100 grams of tar soap. It is required to spray the garden, distributing a thin, but at the same time dense layer to each plot. An alternative to this product is household chemicals such as Actara or Calypso.

During the appearance of flowers

The third spraying is carried out strictly when the buds on the tree have already appeared, but they have not yet had time to blossom. The purpose of this process is to protect against the appearance of caterpillars, codling moth, reducing the risk of spotting and scab. To do this, you need:

  1. Dilute 70 grams of Karbofox in 10 liters of room temperature water.
  2. Mix the components thoroughly until the active substance is completely dissolved.

The solution is ready. They need to spray the trunk and the base of the branches. But, strictly this must be done before the buds open, since flowering can absorb toxic substances. After flowering, if necessary, you can re-treat the plant, if you want to prevent the appearance or eliminate parasites. But, for this it is better to use a more gentle solution — 80 grams of 70% sulfur diluted in 10 liters of soapy water.

During the appearance of the first fruits

There are also pests that survive even after three or four treatments. In this case, repeated spraying is required if parasites are seen on the trunk or branches of trees by the gardener. But, chemical potent drugs cannot be used for this purpose. They contribute to the fact that the fruits will become unfit for consumption. As the main component for creating a solution can be used:

  • copper oxychloride,
  • urea,
  • Bordeaux liquid.

All these drugs are of a biological type, they do not contain harmful toxic substances. It can be used as one of the listed drugs, they can also be combined with each other. But, when forming fruits for the purpose of prevention, it is not necessary to spray trees or shrubs. This measure is only necessary when identifying pests.

See also:  What Tick Diseases Can Dogs Get?

Before you start spraying, you need to observe the weather conditions, there must be an optimal level of humidity. If you carry out this procedure in wet weather, then there is a high probability of a chemical burn on the leaves or fruits of the plant.


Compliance with the processing time of fruit trees and the use of effective means does not always allow to achieve good results. Malicious parasites still continue to appear and infect the plant. The main problem is that the spraying was not performed correctly. Experienced gardeners make several recommendations in this regard:

  • you need to spray not a certain part of the tree bark, but the entire trunk and the base of the branches,
  • you need to move in the direction from top to bottom,
  • after spraying, it is necessary to observe the weather, if precipitation appears during the day, processing must be performed anew,
  • the best sprayer — cylinders, garden sprayers or pumps,
  • to get a good effect, you need to use combined means, this will simultaneously fight several types of pests,
  • about 5.5 liters of solution should be spent on an adult tree, about 1.5 liters on a small tree or large shrub.

Elementary hygiene rules should be observed. The equipment with which the spraying was carried out must be thoroughly washed and dried. Work should be strictly in a mask, glasses and tight gloves to protect the skin, respiratory system and eyesight from burns, as well as to avoid poisoning with toxic substances. After gardening, you need to change into clean clothes, wash your hands thoroughly and wash your face with soap.

Adding an article to a new collection

With the beginning of spring, the garden wakes up from hibernation. And although there is still snow around, the air is fresh in spring. But as soon as the sun begins to bake, garden pests are activated. Therefore, it is time to take measures to eliminate them and protect the garden.

The treatment of the garden from pests, which is carried out in early spring, is, first of all, spraying trees with special chemical solutions that neutralize harmful insects. Aphids, leaf flies, sawflies, weevils, moths and many other ill-wishers are just waiting for the moment when the owner gape.

Summer residents spend the very first spraying of trees immediately after the cold recedes. The following stages of the garden treatment from diseases and pests are carried out before the trees bloom and the first ovaries appear.

The very first thing to do before spraying is to put things in order on the site: remove debris and last year’s leaves, clear tree trunks of mosses and lichens.

Read below on how to spray the garden in early spring against diseases and pests.

Spring currants and gooseberries

Although currants and gooseberries are considered unpretentious, they also need preventive treatment for diseases and pests. The first treatment of the bushes is carried out as soon as the snow melts.

First you need to carefully examine the bushes and soil to figure out which pests you have to fight. When inspecting the bushes, pay attention to the condition of the branches. If they look like burnt, then your bushes were hit by a kidney moth. If the kidneys are large and resemble a head of cabbage, this is the «work» of the kidney mite. Plaque on the ends of the branches speaks of powdery mildew, and the holes inside the branches indicate the defeat of the bush with a glass-case. Affected branches need to be cut. This also applies to old branches, shoots growing inside the bush, branches with a bloom and generally all «suspicious» branches.

Before trying the «heavy artillery» of chemical insecticides, gardeners usually use the good old folk remedies. The soil around the bush is watered with hot water with a small amount of potassium permanganate or soda. The branches of the bushes are also shed with this hot solution using a watering can.

Another sure remedy that many summer residents use is copper sulfate (50-100 g per 10 liters of water). The concentration of the drug depends on the age of the plant and the degree of its damage (the older the plant and the more damage it has, the higher the concentration). Basically, for the treatment with copper sulfate of one bush of currant or gooseberry in the spring, 1-1.5 liters of solution will be required.

For the treatment of diseases, gardeners also widely use Bordeaux liquid — 100 g of copper sulfate, 100 g of quicklime and 10 l of water. This is enough to handle 10 bushes of gooseberries and currants. It is important that the solution is used within five hours after preparation — after this time, the lime that is present in the Bordeaux mixture will begin to stick together into clumps and clog the watering can.

Recently, biologics (Bitoxibacillin, Fitosporin, Trichophytum, Mikosan, etc.) are gaining more and more popularity for the fight against diseases.All of them are good, but it must be borne in mind that these drugs work at a temperature of 8 ° C or higher, while the first spring preventive treatments begin immediately after the snow melts. So, the effectiveness of the above funds in early spring will be very low.

To control pests of currants and gooseberries, follow these guidelines.

1. Branches and shoots with signs of damage by powdery mildew, currant glass-case, scabbard, pseudoscutum, currant mite are cut to the soil level and burned. In no case do not throw these branches into compost — this is a ready-made substrate for the development of diseases and pests! But ash after burning can be used as fertilizer.

2. Fallen leaves are also burned. Aisles, as well as the soil around the bushes, are loosened, thereby reducing the likelihood of infections such as anthracnose and septoria and relieving plants of moth caterpillars.

1. In order to prevent the invasion of leaf and stem currant gall midges, a layer of mulch 6 cm thick is laid on the soil around the bushes (use peat crumb).

2. Currant bushes are abundantly watered with hot water (60-70 ° C) — this will help to destroy aphid eggs.

3. To control pests, the bushes are sprayed with solutions of Aktara, Angio, Decis, Karbofos, Actellik, Confidor, Actofit.

4. To combat aphids, scale insects, kidney moths, weevils, raspberries, beetles, Fufanon (10 ml per 10 liters of water) is used, spending 1.5 liters of solution for each adult bush.

5. To combat gooseberry moth use a solution of Karbofos (15 ml per 10 l of water).

6. Against moth butterflies, currant bushes are sprayed with Iskra (1 tablet per 10 liters of water), or 0.1% Actara.

Strawberry Processing in Early Spring

Processing strawberries in the spring is an important event that cannot be ignored. Yes, and there is not enough time for processing — you need to have time before flowering. And the very first thing to do is to remove old leaves and debris from the strawberry beds, clean the leaves of dry leaves, and remove weeds.

The soil also needs to be protected from pests and diseases. To do this, the soil between the rows is watered from a watering can with water heated to 95 ° C. Such a measure will save strawberries from pest larvae that remained in the ground for the winter. In order for a hot shower to be destructive for soil monsters, it is recommended to add potassium permanganate (to a slightly pink color) or 15 drops of iodine to a bucket of water.

The main enemies of strawberries are powdery mildew, gray rot, white rot, black rot, and also verticillus wilting. To avoid all this, you need to treat the bushes with antifungal agents, in which copper is present — these are Chorus, Topaz, Fundazol, 1% Bordeaux liquid, etc.

If in the previous season your garden was actively attacked by pests, then you need to strengthen security measures and control them.

Grape processing in early spring

On how you process the grapes at the beginning of the season, it depends directly on whether it will bear fruit. Care for grapes in the spring begins with garbage collection, pruning of dry vines, removing damaged shoots, cultivating the soil.

The main enemy of grapes is fungal diseases. The first preventive treatment begins after the winter covering material is removed from it. At this time, a 2% solution of copper sulfate or Bordeaux liquid can be used. Also at this time, the vine can be treated with a solution of iron sulfate (based on 200 g of the drug per 10 liters of water), this treatment will help protect not only from diseases, but also harmful insects wintering under the bark.

During the opening of the kidneys, grapes are treated with preparations against a grape tick (Vermitek, BI-58, etc.).

Apple and pear processing in early spring

The period from snow melting to budding is considered the most suitable for processing apples and pears from lichens and fungal infections. For spraying, a 2% solution of copper sulfate is prepared (200 g of the drug is dissolved in 10 l of water). For spraying during this period, you can use a 2% Bordeaux liquid. Also, apple trees and pears in early spring will be protected by Farmayod spraying. This drug protects against fungal diseases and strengthen the immunity of plants.

Before the buds begin to bloom, the trunks of the trees and the ground around them can be sprayed with a solution of urea (300 g per 10 liters of water). Such treatment will help to destroy overwintered pests.

In the period before budding, the so-called «blue spraying» is carried out using a Bordeaux mixture. Timely treatment with this drug will protect fruit trees from scab and moniliosis. As a rule, until the buds have bloomed, a 2% solution of the Bordeaux mixture is used, and later — already 1%.

Before buds open, iron sulfate is also used to treat apples and pears. This treatment will protect the trees from lichens, pests that settled in the bark for the winter, as well as fungal diseases. A solution of this drug is sprayed not only the trees themselves, but also the trunk circles. To prepare the mixture, 200 g of iron sulfate is diluted in 10 l of water.

Iron sulfate is suitable for spraying bushes and stone fruits. True, in this case, apply a 3% concentration (300 g of substance per 10 liters of water).

Sprinkling the garden in early spring

As a rule, whitewashing of tree trunks is carried out before the onset of cold weather, that is, in autumn. It will help to avoid attacks of rodents and keep the bark intact, preventing it from cracking from the frosty wind. In the spring, it is only checked after wintering and gets better, if necessary. However, if you were previously unaware of the need for processing, the start of care for trees and shrubs begins in early spring, before the buds begin to bloom. When the snow melts, gardeners begin to clean the surroundings of the summer cottage, remove the insulation from the wrapped boles, and remove dead branches. Then proceed to the spring treatment of annoying insects.

Spraying the garden in spring

First of all, tree trunks are cleaned of all kinds of fungi, then the bark is treated with lime mortar. It is prepared in this way:

  • 2 kg of lime or lime paste is diluted in 10 l of water,
  • add 1 kg of clay and 300-350 g of copper sulfate to the resulting liquid (this will significantly enhance the protective effect),
  • thoroughly knead
  • the resulting solution is treated with trunks and base branches.

This procedure is performed to burn out the eggs and larvae of insects that remained on the cortex and in the cracks of the stem after winter.

There are also modern, slightly more expensive, but also much more effective products that make it much easier and faster to whiten a tree in order to protect it from attacks by insects and rodents. In addition, they include fungicides that protect against most diseases. These tasks are handled by:

  • acrylic whitewash such as Green Squre,
  • acrylic paints, for example Concord Ost,
  • lime paste containing copper sulphate, such as the Gardener.

Another effective tool in pest control is diesel fuel (diesel fuel, which you can buy at any gas station). Spraying the plantings evenly with it, you will create a protective oily film and thereby rid all pome and stone plants from annoying insects. Their larvae and eggs will suffocate under a ball of diesel fuel (within 2-3 hours) and will not harm unopened peduncles and blooming leaves.

Spring treatment of the garden from pests and diseases to budding

The second step in the struggle for the garden is the treatment of trees and bushes before the buds awaken. These measures are carried out to protect them from hatched larvae of insects and pathogens of various diseases.

The most dangerous diseases of the garden include: scab, black cancer, coccomycosis, moniliosis, anthracnose and others. To get rid of their pathogens and parasite larvae (soil insects, codling moths, caterpillars, ticks, etc.), it is necessary to treat the plantings with special chemicals — insecticides, which are intended for these purposes. The most common are: Aktara, Calypso, Avant, Lannat, Bi-58.

Using them, it is advisable to carefully study the instructions for use, because it is recommended to spray certain trees and shrubs with separate means. For greater effectiveness, you can use a solution of insecticides (Anabazin, Trichlorol, DDT) and fungicides (Strobi, Horus, Teldor) of contact action (drugs for the preventive treatment of various diseases).

Or you can make an insecticide on your own from herbs, tobacco and orange peel. It is prepared as follows:

  • 2 gram cups of crushed tobacco are poured into a 3-liter jar,
  • add a handful of husks of garlic and onions, needles and peels of orange,
  • all components are filled with water at a temperature of approximately 70 degrees,
  • the glass container is tightly closed by a lid and placed in a warm place for a week,
  • after this drain, the filtered tincture is diluted with warm water to 10 l,
  • stirred, gradually adding 100 g of crushed tar soap,
  • the whole garden is sprayed with a ready-made product, repeating the procedure 10-12 days before flowering.

Preparations for the first spraying of trees

You need to spray ONE of these drugs!

  • Bordeaux mixture 3%
  • Pharma Iodine (suitable for organic farming)
  • Home
  • Abiga Peak
  • Rayok
  • Oksihom
  • Chorus (works at +5 degrees, and decomposes quickly at higher temperatures)
  • Coming soon
  • inkstone
  • Nitraph
  • Carbamide (urea) in a large dose: 700 g per 10 liters of water + 50 g of copper sulfate.

Green cone

Garden treatment in spring from diseases and pests before and during the flowering process

Before the blooming process begins, the buds of trees and shrubs are processed to protect them from the invasion of caterpillars of the codling moth, as well as from the development of scab and spotting. You can use «Karbofoks», making 10% of the drug with the calculation of 70 g per 10 l of water at room temperature. During flowering, experienced gardeners do not recommend any action.

When the flowering period ends, the treatment of the garden is carried out for prevention, in order to increase immunity from the disease.

The period of blossoming of inflorescences coincides with the release of ticks from wintering. To counter them, you need to process the culture with colloidal sulfur (80 g of 70% paste is dissolved in 10 l of soapy water). If you miss this moment and fail to defend in time, the ticks will cause significant damage to all plantings.

Spring treatment of the garden during the appearance of ovaries on the fruit

The fourth stage of spring processing is carried out to protect future fruits from putrefactive diseases and remaining pests. Before proceeding with active actions, it is advisable to inspect all trees and shrubs for visible opponents, since chemical exposure with potent agents can only harm the ovaries.

Spraying can be carried out with copper oxychloride, Bordeaux liquid, urea or other combined preparations with a wide range of actions. But at the same time, it is necessary to ensure that the air humidity does not exceed the permissible norm, otherwise the leaves may suffer from burns.

Description of spray products

Chemicals for processing plants are sold in assortment in household stores or in departments for cottages and gardens. But, experienced gardeners recommend that the treatment is carried out with the safest substance with a minimum content of toxic substances, which serves as an important indicator for a fruit tree. Such products include Bordeaux fluid, iron or copper sulfate, urea.

How to spray trees on a green cone

The second treatment of the garden is carried out at a time when the kidneys are already swollen and burstbut the leaves have not yet begun to blossom. Kidneys have cone-shaped view.

This is a critical moment to combat apple bee eater (weevil). Apple trees and pears suffer from it very much.

The flower beetle lays its larvae in an unopened bud, which turns brown and does not open. Insects feed on the juices of the kidneys, sometimes you can notice how the kidneys “cry”: droplets of juice stand out on them.

Spring Raspberry Processing

As soon as the snow melts, gardeners begin to release raspberry bushes from dead and diseased shoots and spray the bushes with a Bordeaux mixture. To do this, take 400 g of lime-fluff, 300 g of copper sulfate and dilute all this in 10 liters of water.

A good effect is also obtained from spraying the soil with a urea solution (50 g of copper sulphate and 300 g of urea per 10 l of water). About 2.5 liters of the mixture will be needed to process 10 square meters of soil.

Many gardeners process raspberry bushes with solutions of iron sulfate in a proportion of 100 g of substance per 5 liters of water. Typically, spraying each bush takes about 0.5 l of solution. The above recipes will help protect raspberries from infections, as well as its main pests — raspberry beetle, stem fly, strawberry raspberry weevil, shoot gall midge. And so that new pests do not have any chance of harming the plants, the soil dug up to a depth of 10 cm is treated with Fufanon’s solution (20 ml of the drug per 10 liters of water).

The following preparations perfectly cope with raspberry pests: Actellik — 15 ml per 10 liters of water (at least 200 ml of solution will be needed for each bush), Karbofos — 75 g per 10 liters of water (1 liter per 1 bush). Karbofos is also used for prophylaxis against the glass-house — 6 g of the substance are dissolved in 1 liter of water — this solution is enough to process five bushes.

Spring plum and cherry plum processing

The first spraying of plums and cherry plums in the spring is carried out before the sap flow begins. In order to protect trees from pests, such as a fruit tick, aphid, plum moth, weevil and others, you can use the preparations Iskra, Fufanon, Karbofos, etc.

To protect plum trees from diseases — gnomoniasis, kleasterosporiosis, fruit rot, gummosis and others — it is recommended to spray the trees with a solution of urea (300 g of substance per 10 liters of water) or use a solution of 2% copper sulfate, or 2% bordeaux liquid . Trunk circles also process.

Be sure to whitewash the drain trunks to protect them from sunburn, temperature changes, as well as insects and their larvae that winter in the bark.

Peach Processing in Spring

Peach begins to be sprayed before the buds open, but when the air temperature already reaches stable plus values.

The main purpose of this treatment is the fight against a formidable disease — curly leaves. In addition, the procedure will contribute to the destruction of all pests that managed to successfully winter, hiding in the bark and shoots of trees. In this case, fungicides are used, in which copper is present (copper sulfate, Bordeaux liquid, etc.).

The second stage of spraying is carried out in late March — early April, before the buds are nominated. The third spraying is carried out in early May, when ticks are actively propagating.

Crones of peaches are sprayed from pests by Aktofit — in a proportion of 40 ml per bucket of water. The near-stem circle is treated with Planriz — 330 ml per 10 l of water. Such drugs as Trichodermin (20 g per 10 liters of water), Bitoxibacillin (10 ml per bucket of water) are also popular.

At the second stage of spring treatment, urea (300 g of substance, 10 l of water, 50 g of copper sulphate) is used, a solution of iron sulphate (500 g of substance per 5 l of water), a solution of copper sulphate (50 g per 5 l of water).

When the air temperature is set at 14 ° C, you can treat the peach with the preparation Skor, which will protect against curly leaves, powdery mildew and gray rot.To do this, prepare a solution of 2 g of the substance and 8 l of water.

Processing cherries in spring

Sprinkle cherries and cherries before starting the sap flow. For this purpose, apply a 2% solution of copper sulfate or Bordeaux liquid, as well as iron sulfate (200 g of substance per 10 liters of water). Also for the first spraying, gardeners use urea (300 g per bucket of water). These measures will help protect trees from aphids, weevils and other pests and their larvae, as well as protect them from monilial burns, purple spotting and scab.

If you did everything right, then further spraying from diseases may not be necessary. If you still could not avoid infection, the following drugs are used for treatment: Skor (effective against coccomycosis), Poliram (will cope with anthracnosis), Topsin-M (used against moniliosis), etc.

On how correctly you spend the spring processing of the garden, it directly depends on whether you will have a crop. But here the main thing is not to overdo it, but to comply with the measure. If you do everything right, then your garden will be protected from diseases and pests for a long time, and the trees will delight you with juicy ripe fruits.

Pest preparations:

  • Decis Profi
  • Spark
  • Inta Vir
  • Fufanon
  • Kinmix
  • Tanrek

It is also important to properly process the seeds of vegetables and flowers before planting on seedlings.

Simple, highly effective and safe. from apple bee-eater: lay a film under the tree on the ground. Wrap a cloth on a long stick and knock it on branches and shake the whole tree. Insects fold their paws and fall down onto the film. They need to be collected and destroyed.

From diseases used:

  • Coming soon
  • Bordeaux mixture 1%
  • Oksihom
  • Chorus (if the air temperature is not higher than +5).

During this period they hang trapping belts on a wood pillar, glue plates, pheromone traps for catching adult females of different pests.

Phase Pink Bud

Spraying trees in the pink bud phase

Spray BEFORE disclosing the buds! At this point already apple moth flies around the garden and lays its eggs on the leaves next to the flowers or directly into the flower. The larva penetrates the fetus and the result is wormy apples.

It is important to handle the entire crown, so you need a good sprayer with a long hose. With high-quality and timely spraying against the apple moth, there will be practically no scavenger.

In the spring, it is necessary to spray grapes several times from diseases and pests.

Fourth tree treatment

Last time the trees are sprayed when pea-sized fruit. At this moment begins the second wave of moliosis, and the apple moth again wielding at full strength. By the way, she flies at dusk and at night. A good way to get rid of it is compote bait.

Cook apple compote and hang small compote pails on a tree. The apple moth will fly to the smell of an apple and thus it will be possible to collect adults. Preparations for spraying are the same as for 3 treatments.

Currants, blackberries, gooseberries sprayed from diseases and pests according to a special scheme.

Insect pests of the garden. Garlic extract — a reliable way to get rid

To protect the garden from aphids, copperfish, rust, it is worth sprinkling them with a tincture of garlic. It is prepared quite simply:

  • half a kilogram of garlic is crushed, diluted in 3-5 liters of water,
  • filter and squeeze the thick
  • soaked again in water,
  • the resulting solutions are passed through a sieve,
  • mix and add liquid to 10 liters.

This strongly smelling garlic extract will drive away pests. There are other tinctures, herbal decoctions, with which you can try to protect your garden. But there is no guarantee that they will be more effective than chemicals.

Bordeaux fluid

Bordeaux liquid is one of the effective drugs used in the garden or vegetable garden. They treat fruit trees in the spring to prevent or destroy pests or diseases. It is difficult to confuse it with another agent, since a bright blue color serves as a characteristic feature.

Bordeaux liquid can be purchased ready-made in a store for gardeners. For spraying trees, a 3% solution is suitable. You can also cook it yourself by mixing copper sulfate with lime.


Iron sulfate is most often used to save or treat all kinds of diseases in fertile trees such as apple trees, plums, pears or cherries. If you compare it with Bordeaux liquid, then it is less effective. But, among other possible substances for the preparation of the solution is a full leader.

Another useful property of iron sulfate is the saturation of plant crops with useful substances necessary for normal growth and improved yield. You can buy the main component in a household store, for gardening, 3% vitriol is suitable. Before use, it should be diluted with water, according to the instructions.

Blue vitriol

Copper sulfate is also actively used as a pest control agent. But, in fact, its effectiveness is not so high. You can get a good effect from its use only if you add an insecticide to the solution, or alternate with spraying with it.

It is worth considering that both of these substances are very toxic and can cause poisoning and severe burns. Therefore, before starting work, care should be taken about basic measures to protect the eyes, skin and respiratory organs. Prevention should not be made of this substance in water bodies or containers. This is very dangerous, the ingress of water into the body can lead to severe poisoning by toxic substances of people or other living individuals.

It is impossible to prevent a glut of copper sulfate plants. This can lead to his death or illness. The optimal dosage for preparing the solution is 100 grams of substance per 10 liters of water.

Urea is another powerful tool to protect trees and shrubs from all types of pests and rotting. In addition, it saturates the fruit land with nitrogen, stimulating its growth. Processing it is carried out strictly in the spring, when the trees are in a calm state.

To prepare a solution for spraying, it is required to dilute from 10 to 700 grams of urea in 10 liters of water and mix the contents thoroughly. To enhance the effectiveness of this tool, you can add 50 grams of copper sulfate. Urea itself is not toxic. Therefore, you can work with it without serious protection.

Useful tips from gardeners

In early spring, it is required to process fruit trees in order to save them from diseases and pests. This procedure is simple and you get used to it. But, beginners may have problems. Gardeners recommend paying attention to three nuances: the spraying procedure, the time and conditions for carrying out the work, and the correct calculation of the amount of solution. Attention deserves the care of stone fruits and pome plants.

Spraying procedure

Before processing the tree, it is required to remove the “untangle” it from winter protection. After this, you should inspect the tree or bush, removing from it all surface contamination. Only then can we proceed to the spraying process. Starting from the crown, ending with the root zone, you need to spray the entire trunk and each branch, only in this way there will be a good treatment effect.

Time and conditions for work

It is better to protect the fruit plant from diseases in the spring. Plant breeds are more susceptible in the morning, so you need to get to work before lunch. Be sure to read the weather forecast the day before. The day should not be hot, but dry, without precipitation and strong wind. Only in this case, the active substance is quickly absorbed into the tree bark and begins to act almost immediately.

Correct calculation of the amount of solution

Be sure to commit a crime to work, you should familiarize yourself with the instructions attached to each substance. Make a solution in strict accordance with it. If the amount of active substance is insufficient, the solution will not work; if excess is present, it will harm the plant culture. By default, the correct calculation table looks like this.

The amount of solution (l)

Spring garden treatment of stone fruit trees

In the spring it is required to carefully process stone plants from diseases and pests. It is recommended to do this before and after flowering. The safest solution is based on copper oxychloride at a concentration of 90%. To prepare the sprayer, 40 grams of this substance must be dissolved in 10 liters of water. They can be treated for the prevention or treatment of diseases of both trees and bushes.

An alternative to this tool is a ready-made sprayer «Skor». It has a similar composition, therefore it is non-toxic and safe. To prepare the solution, you should dilute 3 grams of this substance in 10 liters of room temperature water and mix the contents thoroughly. Trees can be treated with them strictly after flowering.

Garden Processing Equipment

As the main equipment for processing, any device that can be conveniently used by a gardener can be used: a garden sprayer, spray can or pump. Before and after work, it should be thoroughly washed and dried. From additional inventory it may come in handy:

  • whitewashing brush for processing individual sections or small bushes,
  • electric pump for the care of a large garden plantation.

Each tool needs to be kept in perfect cleanliness. If pollution accumulates on it, there is a high risk of developing an infection that, together with the solution, will penetrate the bark of the fruit or berry field. For processing undersized plants, you can create a sprayer yourself from a plastic bottle of any volume and a liquid ejector.

Calculation of the amount of solution

In order for the drugs to work effectively, but not harm the plantings, you need to correctly calculate their consumption. Of course, the instructions indicate how to breed them, and such a calculation will only help determine how many of them need to be purchased.

So: approximately 1.5 l of solution is spent on one young tree, and 5.5 l on an adult tree, from 0.6 to 1.5 l of liquid goes on bushes, depending on the size of the crowns.

Spring gardening — stone fruits

To prevent infection of stone crops in the garden with kleasterosporiosis, moniliosis, powdery mildew, they should be treated before and after flowering with copper oxychloride (40 g of 90% of the substance per 10 l of water).

And in order to protect fruit plantations from curly leaves, it is possible to use the fungicide “Skor”, it is safe and low toxic. It is necessary to use it only after flowering, the mixture is prepared with the expectation of 3 g per 10 liters of liquid. Pest control of the garden in the spring will allow you to save and increase the yield of fruits.


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Dates Name of works
Before swelling of the kidneys
The period of swelling and blooming of the kidneys