ORCHID PEDUNCLE: HOW IT APPEARS AND HOW IT LOOKS, HOW IT GROWS, WHETHER IT IS NECESSARY TO PRUNE AFTER FLOWERING, FLOWER SPROUT REPRODUCTION, PHOTO

Features of the appearance of an orchid peduncle

Being one of the most beautiful flowering houseplants, the orchid owes this quality to the unique structure of the bush, in which the main decorative role is played by the peduncle. All about orchid peduncles read further in the article.

What is the orchid peduncle

Orchid peduncle is a shoot designed to form flowers on a plant. To have an idea of ​​how it looks like before it grew on an orchid, you can look at its aerial roots, which are very similar to it in color and shape. True, the flowering stem still differs from them in structure, which does not immediately catch the eye.

At the beginning of its development, the flower-bearing arrow grows in arbitrary directions, often fancifully bending, but gradually aligns and begins to grow in a straight line, either straight up or in some direction. Its appearance is a thick dark green arrow with a sharp tip, covered with scales, from under which buds appear, and then flowers.

As a rule, the plant throws out one flower stalk, which can either exist for several years, releasing, after the previous flowers have faded, new branches with new flowers, or to dry after each flowering, giving way to a new flower stalk. Sometimes in conditions especially favorable for growth, an orchid is capable of throwing out several flowering shoots at once, which greatly enhances the decorative qualities of the plant.

However, when answering the question of how many flower stalks can be on an orchid, it does not interfere with listening to the opinions of specialists who argue that the formation of several flower-bearing arrows at once contradicts the natural growing conditions of the orchid and greatly depletes the life force of the plant.

The optimal conditions under which an orchid develops in normal natural rhythms are:

  • temperature range from + 22 ° С to + 30 ° С;
  • daylight duration at least 12 hours;
  • ambient air humidity of at least 50%;
  • regular watering, but by no means excessive.

Did you know? Orchids, being one of the oldest plant families, whose age is almost 145 million years old, are common on our planet everywhere, with the exception of the harsh Antarctica.

How to distinguish the root from the peduncle

With all the external similarity of aerial roots and peduncle to answer the question of how to determine where the root process, and where the flowering shoots, it is not so difficult:

  • flowering sprout develops at the junction of the leaf and the stem, and the roots appear from the base of the root collar;
  • the tip of the flowering shoot is pointed, while it is rounded off at the root;
  • the surface of the flowering shoots is covered with scales, and at the roots it is flat and smooth.

Timing of flowering

Orchid bush produces flowering shoots for 1-2 months. And how long it takes for flowers to bloom depends on the conditions created by the plant. Under normal conditions, on average, the development of the peduncle from its appearance to the blooming of flowers takes from 2 to 3 months. And more unfavorable conditions for the flower significantly lengthen the process.

From the conditions of growth directly depends on how long the flowering will last, which can last up to 4 months, and may very quickly end up dropping both flowers and buds with a plant. Also, the conditions of growing a flower have an impact on the timing of flowering, which can occur both in summer and in winter.

Is it necessary to trim the peduncle and how to do it correctly

As already mentioned, some flowering shoots are able to produce flowers repeatedly for several years, while others dry out after flowering, giving up their place to new flower stalks. Therefore, it should not be immediately removed ottsvyotshy flower, no matter how unaesthetic it looks. As long as it retains its green color, it should not be touched.

But at the same time, there are signs by which it can be accurately determined whether the peduncle is already cut:

  • if the green arrow began to turn yellow quickly or acquire brown, reddish and purple tones;
  • peduncle completely dried;
  • six months green flowering shoots do not give flowers.

The flower-bearing arrow needs to be cut off, leaving a process 3 cm long emerging from the leaf sinus.

For pruning use:

  • scissors;
  • sharp knife;
  • pruner

At the same time pruner, causing a minimum damage to the plant, is most preferable.

Important! In no case should not the dried up flowering shoot with your hands.

Additional care during the growth of peduncle

When the flowering arrow appears on the orchid, it is necessary to make some adjustments to the care of the plant:

  • if the peduncle does not appear in the summer, then it is useful to put a pot with a flower on the window sill of the window facing the south side to improve the illumination;
  • watering should be reduced to 1 time in 2 weeks;
  • immediately after the flowering shoot appears on the orchid’s bush, the intensity of fertilizing needs to be slightly reduced;
  • When the peduncle has reached its optimal size and the appearance of buds on it, feeding should be stopped.

Features reproduction peduncle

In the home environment, orchids are propagated by:

  • division of rhizomes;
  • seedlings;
  • kids.

At the same time, reproduction by children, forming on the flowering arrow, is considered the most reliable and loyal to the safety of the plant in a way.

The following advantages of the method are noted:

  • maternal plant is not injured;
  • the overwhelming number of seedlings is taking root;
  • ease of use;
  • the ability to independently wake the kidneys.
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But for the education of children should create certain prerequisites:

  • the orchid must be an adult;
  • it must have at least 4 leaves;
  • its root system must be healthy;
  • the flowering period should be over;
  • it is necessary to keep within the time interval between the end of winter and the middle of summer;
  • requires fresh flowering shoots with developed buds.

Read how to make an orchid bloom.

In addition, certain efforts are needed from the people in the form of:

  • ensure daylight hours are shorter than 10 hours with diffused sunlight;
  • creating daily temperature differences from + 25 ° С during the day to + 17 ° С at night;
  • maintaining stable humidity at 50%;
  • termination of fertilizing fertilizer.

The very process of reproduction of an orchid by means of a peduncle is as follows:

  1. The flowering arrow with dormant buds is cut so that a process 3 cm long remains on the mother plant, which is then treated with crushed activated charcoal every week for a month.
  2. The cut-off process of the peduncle is placed in a transparent container with a tablet of activated carbon at the bottom, into which soft water is poured to a level of 5 cm.
  3. To create the greenhouse effect, the container is covered with a transparent film and placed in a well-lit place at temperatures up to + 27 ° C.
  4. The water in the tank changes weekly.
  5. When 3 leaves and roots up to 5 cm long are formed on the child, it is separated from the flowering shoots with a blade.
  6. Separated baby is planted in a transparent container with crushed and moistened pine bark.
  7. The container is covered with a transparent film and put in a sufficiently lit place, occasionally moistening the bark.
  8. After the appearance of 2 new leaves, the film coating is removed.

Possible problems

Most often, orchid owners are faced with cases where the plant for a long time does not want to bloom.

A similar problem is solved as follows:

  1. It is necessary to strengthen the lighting of the flower and bring it to half an hour.
  2. Watering, on the contrary, should be reduced, making the interval between substrate moistening of 10 days.
  3. The temperature regime is also subject to downward adjustment, since the high temperature stimulates the growth of green mass, but inhibits the appearance of peduncles. Especially important is the temperature difference during the day, which must be at least 4 degrees. In this case, the daily temperature should be maintained at + 21 ° C.
  4. To stimulate the appearance of peduncle, enhanced fertilizing with fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium is required. It is useful to apply pharmaceutical preparations in the form of «zircon» or succinic acid as a top dressing, guided by the attached annotations.

Why do orchids have a yellow spike?

If the flowering sprouts are yellowed, this may indicate both the natural process of replacing the old peduncle with a new one, and the trouble in keeping the flower. As a rule, yellowing begins with the tip of the arrow, which gradually turns yellow all over. The yellowing process is accompanied by the deformation of the shape of the flowering shoots, a decrease in its size, the appearance of reddish tones on it.

Important! In some species of orchids, reddish or purple shades are the normal color of the peduncle and in no way indicate its distress.

In cases where, together with the flowering arrow, the deciduous mass begins to turn yellow, it is necessary to state miscalculations in the care of the plant, presented:

  • violation of the moisture balance, which should not go beyond 30-80%;
  • incorrectly selected lighting mode, not providing semi-daily lighting;
  • a shortage of fertilizers, as well as their surplus;
  • stressful situations provoked by moving the plant to another place with different conditions;
  • mechanical damage to the floral arrow;
  • diseases associated with putrefactive processes.

There were sticky drops on the peduncle

This phenomenon indicates the trouble in the content of the plant. Very often, it signals the overmoistening of both air and the substrate. The juice secreted by the flower is designed to normalize the internal temperature of the orchid. To eliminate the problem, lower the temperature in the room and stop moistening the air and the ground.

If these measures do not correct the situation, it is necessary to pay attention to the presence of pests in the form of:

  • aphids;
  • spider mite;
  • scythes;
  • mealybug

For their extermination should:

  1. Wash the leaves with a solution of household soap.
  2. Dry the soil.
  3. Increase air humidity.
  4. At the same time lower the temperature, since high contributes to the development of parasites.
  5. Treat orchid bush with Aktara-type insecticides.

Also, sticky drops can appear on the orchid bush due to the disease by powdery mildew, which is fought by spraying with a solution of liquid soap mixed with soda ash or treated with fungicides in the form of Topaz or Fundazole.

Dries and decays flower stalk

To the drying of the floral arrow most often, except for natural causes, leads to a lack of lighting. When eliminating this problem, one should not repeat the mistakes of most inexperienced gardeners, who, in order to achieve uniformity of illumination, regularly develop a pot with a flower. This should not be done in any way, since any change in the location of the plant or its orientation in space causes stress in the flower.

Did you know? One orchid of some species of this plant can produce up to 4 million seeds. This is a record for seed productivity of flowers.

A significant role in the well-being of an orchid bush is played by temperature indicators, as well as the level of humidity and nutritional value of the substrate when they go beyond the limits of optimal indicators, which were discussed above. The rot affects the flower stalk together with the whole flower in case of violation of the rules for watering and the development of putrefactive processes in the plant.

Short peduncle

If the peduncle emerged from the leaf bosom, but then slowed down its development, it is necessary first of all to pay attention to the level of illumination of the flower, since it plays a key role in the growth of the flowering arrow.

You should put the container with the plant in the most lighted place, and if necessary you need to provide the flower with additional lighting. If these measures are not enough, you need to increase the intensity of watering and feeding. As a rule, after all these activities, flowering shoots begin to confidently grow.

The undeniable beauty of orchid flowers often requires the support of a person, or even, in general, the stimulation of its appearance. However, the efforts of flower growers never prove to be excessive against the backdrop of the magic of orchid flowering.

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Identify, combat and prevent spider mites from orchids

Spider mites can do serious damage to your orchids. We’ll show you what to look out for and how to get rid of the mites.

In the worst case, vermin on orchids can lead to the death of the plant. In order to be able to act effectively against the pests, it is important to correctly identify them first so that the appropriate natural or chemical pesticide can be selected. If orchids are infected by mites, they are usually spider mites. Agents that can be used in lice infestation are usually not particularly effective in spider mite infestation.

We will therefore tell all interested readers first of all how mites can be recognized in orchids. Only in the second step do we show how to combat this pest infestation to save the plant. Environmentally, people and (house) animal friendly means are clearly in the foreground. In addition, all hobby gardeners can take various preventive measures so that spider mites do not infect the plant in the first place.

More information on spider mites

There are approximately 1,200 different types of spider mites worldwide, which belong to a subclass of mites. As a rule, spider mites are found on orchids and other infested plants on the underside of the leaves. There the mites spin extremely fine, whitish shimmering webs that serve to protect the pests. The mites feed on the juices of the plant, which in turn takes a lot of strength from the infected orchid. If the plant is punctured by the mites, the orchid is damaged. All in all, there is a large variety of spider mites worldwide, which attack very different types of plants. The following spider mites are an economic problem:

  • Red spider
  • Common spider mite
  • Linde spider mite

Appearance of the spider mite

The body shape of a spider mite is more or less reminiscent of a pear. The tiny length of these mites can be 0.25 to around 0.8 millimeters. This type of mite can also be recognized by a reddish, orange, greenish or yellowish color. The soft-skinned mites also have bristles. A maximum of 16 hair pairs can be seen when you look closely. The spider mite’s larvae have three pairs of legs. Adult spider mites, on the other hand, have not just six, but eight legs.

Harmful effects of spider mites

In addition to the delicate, white webs, the spider mites also ensure that the leaves of the infected plant shine silvery. This is the logical consequence of the mites tapping and sucking the leaves out. If the infestation has already reached an advanced stage, the leaves turn brown-black, which indicates their death and the supposed imminent death of the entire plant / orchid. It is easy to explain that this decay is progressing very quickly. After all, only a spider mite stings the leaves of the orchid in extreme cases, a proud 20 times a minute. The tissue cells of the plant leaves do not withstand this stress for long, especially with many spider mites.

Don’t ignore signs of spider mites!

If there are a lot of speckles with a light yellow color on the leaves of the orchids, this is a solid indication of an attack with spider mites. Now it is high time to take action against the pests. If this does not happen, the leaves and then the shoots and finally the entire plant will die. If the infestation is noticed too late, there is no hope that the orchid in question can still be saved. In addition to orchids, the following plants are also frequently attacked by various types of spider mites:

  • cucumbers
  • roses
  • Apple
  • pear
  • peach
  • Plum & plum
  • strawberries
  • raspberries
  • gooseberries
  • currants
  • Eiben

It should be noted that spider mites particularly like to pounce on plants that are already weakened. Because then the mites have a much easier game.

Spider mite lifestyle

If you want to successfully combat spider mite infestation, you should know the mites’ preferred lifestyle. They love a dry and warm climate. A protected location is also ideal for the spider mites. Although the individual spider mites can only last a few weeks, these pests multiply incredibly quickly. A few mites can quickly become an entire colony. In particular, if the mites have infested an orchid, the location of which is either a plump warm greenhouse or a warm and bright window sill, they can reproduce all year round.

Spider mites are multiplying rapidly

For this very reason, there is a year-round risk of spider mite infestation for orchids. A single spider mite can lay up to 100 eggs until it dies, provided the environmental conditions allow it. The females also lay the eggs on the underside of the leaf. It only takes three days for the first mites to hatch from these eggs. In a week or two, the former larvae have become adult mites that can reproduce. This is also why it is so important to get the infestation under control as quickly as possible before the mites can spread to other orchids in their own apartment or in the greenhouse.

Spider mites like it warm

An infestation with spider mites can be observed outdoors, especially in summer. In closed, warm rooms, the spider mite infestation of various houseplants can also become a problem in winter, which is due to the pleasantly warm ambient conditions. The plump heating air ensures that the mites feel good all around and that they reproduce happily. It can happen that the spider mites are first introduced when buying a new houseplant from a specialist dealer or garden center and then spread to the existing plants.

Prevent spider mite infestation

Although we would like to take a closer look at the possible measures to combat spider mites on orchids, we would first like to discuss which preventive measures make sense. In view of the living conditions preferred by these pests, it is advisable to ensure that the air humidity is as high as possible. Because this humidity doesn’t like spider mites at all. In summer or during heating periods, which are also characterized by a rather dry air, it makes sense to spray the plants regularly with water. This increases the humidity. The plants should also be adequately supplied with water.

New orchids prefer to be in quarantine

In addition, when buying new plants, it is important to ensure that they are not already infected. If it is only a small-scale infection, the spider mites are difficult to see with the naked eye. Therefore, if you want to be on the safe side, prescribe a quarantine to all new plants that are to move into your own apartment. After all, it only takes a few days for the mites to hatch from their eggs.

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The mites can then reproduce within a maximum of two weeks. Whether an orchid or other houseplant is actually infected with spider mites can be seen very quickly. If so, the newly purchased plant should first be treated with spider mites before it can join the other existing house plants.

Care — Vigorous plants are more robust

In addition, good care of the existing orchids is a must. After all, the chances of an infection increase if the plant is already weakened. Vigorous, healthy plants that are in the prime of their life, however, can better defy the mites. Regular fertilization also ensures that the orchids are much more resistant to possible spider mites.

In the video, the care measures for orchids are very well explained:

Natural enemies of the spider mite

In addition, the following beneficials are considered natural antagonists of spider mites:

  • predatory mites
  • predatory beetles
  • lacewings
  • ladybug

The promotion of beneficial organisms to protect against a potential infestation with spider mites is, however, only possible in greenhouses and not in one’s own living space. Moisturizing the orchid regularly with soft water has proven itself far more successfully in closed rooms. Incidentally, predatory mites can best counter spider mite infestation under the following environmental conditions: temperatures of around 25 degrees Celsius and a humidity of around 75 percent. The earlier the predatory mites are used, the better. They are so effective as a natural remedy for spider mites, because two predatory mites hatch in the same time period for each spider mite that hatches.

Act actively against spider mites

Examine orchid with magnifying glass and atomizer

So that the orchid has the best possible chance of survival, it is important to identify and treat the infestation as early as possible. It is therefore advisable to keep a close eye on their leaves every time the plants are watered and fertilized.

Since spider mites are tiny and therefore extremely difficult to see with the naked eye, it is advisable to examine the leaves with a magnifying glass. A water atomizer should also be used. This should be used anyway to regularly moisten the orchids and thus protect them from infection if possible. Because of the moisture, the fine, white webs can be made more visible before it is too late. If the said speckles or spider mites with their white webs can be seen on the underside of the leaf, it is important to take immediate action against the pests.

Affected plants immediately quarantined

If there is an infestation of an orchid with spider mites, the first thing to do is to move all plants that could also be infected together to another room. Thanks to the quarantine, it can be ensured that the infestation cannot spread to other plants. The quarantine location should not be too warm and humid. Because the pests don’t like that at all.

Spider mites don’t like moisture

How the pests should be dealt with depends, among other things, on how strong the infestation is and how resilient the orchid is. A relatively healthy and robust orchid that only has to deal with a mild infestation can be rasped off with water. The following instructions must be observed:

  • The best thing to do is to protect the root ball with a bag when it breaks off.
  • The plant can easily be showered in the shower or bath.
  • Repeat showering of the plant several times every few days to switch off all pests.

Optionally, the entire houseplant can be wrapped in a transparent film bag for a short period after showering. The advantage is obvious: This ensures a high level of humidity, so that the spider mites normally die within a few days or a week at most.

Cut off the affected leaves and shoots

If the pests do not respond adequately to these measures, the affected shoots and leaves can be cut off. However, this should only happen to the extent that the orchid is still viable without the cut leaves and shoots. It is by no means recommended to put these leaves and shoots on the compost. Because there the pests can continue to multiply. This is particularly problematic because spider mites can become a problem not only for orchids, but also for other plants (even outdoors).

Detect spider mites with finished pesticides

Neem against spider mites

Ready-made pesticides on a natural basis are particularly useful at an early stage of spider mite infestation. Because then there is a good chance that the infestation can be mastered without the concentrated chemical club and the orchid can be saved from possible death. Pesticides containing neem, which are easily available in a well-stocked hardware store or garden center, should be the means of choice, provided that the measures mentioned above have either not worked or the use of predatory mites is not a viable alternative.

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Biocides and pesticides

Only when the orchid is on the verge of final ruin will most hobby gardeners want to think about sharper means in the fight against the pests. Before the orchid can no longer be saved, you can try an acaricide, which is also available from specialist dealers. These are extremely potent bio- or pesticides that are offered especially for the control of spider mites. If these preparations are used in greenhouses or outdoors, it certainly makes sense to rely on a preparation that does as little or as little damage as possible to a wide variety of beneficial organisms, such as lacewings or bees.

Discard dead plants

If any rescue attempt has unfortunately failed, the respective orchid should be disposed of. For the reasons mentioned, this plant should not belong to a compost heap. It is better to dispose of the orchid straight away in organic or domestic waste. If the pot of dead orchid is to be used for a new plant, you must ensure that it is free of any mites and their eggs. The former location of the orchid should also be cleared of mites that may have remained, so that other plants are not exposed to the unnecessary risk of infection.

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