Melon aphids on cucumbers: what is dangerous, signs of damage, prevention of occurrence, methods of control, folk remedies, chemicals — Tips

How to deal with gourds aphids on cucumbers

If gourd aphid appeared on cucumbers, how to deal with it? This question is very common among gardeners. After all, even with proper care, aphids can still affect cucumbers. And this happens due to different factors.

Before considering ways to control aphids, you should familiarize yourself with the features of this pest.

How cucumbers are affected by aphids

Initially, gourd aphid settles on the reverse sides of the leaves of weed grass. As a rule, it hibernates in the phase of larvae or wingless insects. And as soon as the ambient temperature rises to 5 ° C, the larvae wake up. Just at this time, they need the nutrition they receive from plants.

Initially, it feeds on the aphids by the juices of the same weed grass. During this period, it is completely safe, since it simply does not make sense for pests to switch to other plants. But a little later, the aphids become so many that there is simply not enough juice from the leaves for all the pests. Then individual individuals turn into butterflies and fly on gourds, in particular on cucumbers.

Just during this period, the plants already have the main leaves. Butterflies lay larvae on the backs of these leaves, and new individuals hatch very quickly from them. Aphid breeds very rapidly, and therefore carries a great danger to the harvest of cucumbers.

Recognizing gourds is quite simple. These are small bugs of a yellowish or green color. Sometimes aphids can be black, gray or white. They are very small, but it is easy to notice their cluster if you turn the leaf over with the lower side to the light. As soon as aphids are seen on cucumbers, immediate action is required. The danger to plants lies not only in the fact that pests will drink juices, but also at the risk of infection with dangerous infections. After all, aphids are their carrier.

Fighting aphids on cucumbers

Aphid Prevention

In order to prevent the appearance of aphids on cucumbers, it is also necessary to take appropriate measures. Indeed, timely protection of garden crops is the best way to control pests. The fight against aphids that has already settled on cucumbers is more difficult, since it can appear again.

  1. It is imperative to cultivate the soil in the fall, when all the plants have already been dug up. The best way to destroy fungi, aphids, other harmful insects and their larvae are sulfur drafts. Smoke from them can scare away pests, and even kill some. Aphids simply suffocate from such acrid smoke.
  2. Constantly monitor the cleanliness of the garden. It is necessary to destroy weeds in a timely manner. If artificial preparations are not used to remove them, then you just need to tear out and burn weed grass. So aphids will be much less likely to settle in the garden.
  3. It is necessary to carefully monitor the cleanliness of the greenhouse or greenhouse. And this applies to both small greenhouses and huge greenhouses. The upper part of the soil once a year must be removed, and in that place to fill up new soil. All wooden parts of the structure must be periodically whitened. But glass, metal and plastic parts should be thoroughly washed with a solution of copper sulfate, and then rinsed. This is especially true for those hotbeds where aphids have previously settled.

Aphid control methods

The best protection against aphids on cucumbers is prevention. But what to do if aphid has already appeared on cucumbers in a greenhouse, how to deal with it? As a rule, the use of chemicals is highly undesirable. After all, plants bear fruit, so chemicals in the future can cause significant harm to human health. It is important to choose effective and at the same time safe folk remedies for combating aphids on cucumbers. Consider them now in more detail.

  1. It helps well and does not bring any harm to plants or to humans, ordinary peel of onions. But it will only be necessary to get somewhere half a bucket of such husks, since the infusion should be strong enough. Half a bucket of husk is poured with hot water, covered with a lid and infused for 24 hours. The ratio of husk and water should be in a ratio of 1: 1. After a specified time, all this should be filtered through cheesecloth. The resulting liquid is used to spray cucumbers. The husk exudes a sharp onion smell, and the aphids do not like it at all. Only the plants need to be processed completely, paying more attention to the underside of the leaves.
  2. If there are a lot of aphids, then the following remedy will help to cope with it. You will need green or ordinary household soap and shag. You need to take about 400 g of shag and about 80 g of dry soap shavings. Pour all this into a bucket and pour hot water. Stir well. Insist the remedy for about 2 days. Then treat all the plants with the resulting composition. Practice shows that after the first such treatment, aphids on cucumbers in a greenhouse die very quickly. But a few more treatments should be carried out so that the remaining young individuals and larvae definitely disappear.
  3. A good effect is given by bitter peppers in the fight against aphids. But you only need to use it carefully so as not to burn the plants. It is necessary to take about 50 g of pepper and pour 1 liter of boiling water in an enameled bowl. Cover and insist for 2 hours. Then the resulting composition is diluted with still warm water so that the total volume is 10 liters. The resulting solution is the treatment of plants.

How to deal with aphids on cucumbers using safe folk methods has now become clear. Many shop preparations also help with aphids. But almost all of them contain chemicals, so killing them with aphids on plants that are just about to bear fruit or already bear fruit is strongly discouraged. Therefore, it is best to use proven folk recipes. And remember that in order to destroy aphids, you need to process plants several times. Only in this way will it be possible to get rid of these pests for a long time with affordable means, without damaging the plants and their own health.

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What to do if aphid appeared on an apple tree than to treat a plant against a pest

Aphid on apple tree may appear with a high probability, so for everyone who wants to protect their crops, it is very important to know how to deal with them. Aphid is a small insect, the size of which does not exceed 4-7 mm, however it is the most dangerous pest of garden and fruit crops. Thousands of apple trees are attacked by these pests each year, with significant crop losses. In a short time, several aphids can turn into a whole regiment and get to any area, as they migrate through the air. There are a number of proven effective preventive measures against aphids on apple trees, which will help minimize the likelihood of mass reproduction in the garden of this pest.

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Why does aphid appear on apples, and how to find it

An apple-tree is struck by a red-headed or gray aphid about 2-3 mm long, with a red head and a black back and tail. Eggs overwinter on the bark of an apple tree, and in spring females are born from them, which contribute to the reproduction of entire colonies on a tree. The insect females are highly fertile and can produce 40 larvae at a time. Active aphids multiply in September. Aphid attacks only those plants that have a high content of amino acids in the juice of the leaves. This may be due to a lack of potassium, phosphorus, or an excess of nitrogen. Identifying aphid on an apple is easy: the affected leaves begin to curl down, turn black and dry. Then red blisters appear on the leaves, which signify a further twisting and dying of the leaf.

Due to the defeat of the aphids, the leaves become covered with sticky liquid. This is the pad on which the ants crawl. The appearance of ants is also one of the symptoms of the presence of aphids on apple trees. In the early stages it is difficult to identify a pest on a tree, as the aphid begins to settle on top of it. Over time, when insects eat out all the fresh leaves of the apex, they descend to the lower branches, where they are easy to detect, just enough to turn over any leaf. Since, in addition to eating the leaves, this insect is a dangerous carrier of viral diseases, it is necessary to destroy the aphids on the apple tree immediately after detection.

Unfortunately, even on the most well-groomed and properly processed area there is a high probability of hitting the apple tree. Since these pests migrate through the air, they can easily fly in from neighboring areas.

Did you know? Aphid — one of the largest groups of insects, which brings together about 4000 species. Of these, nearly 1,000 live in Europe. Every year, scientists describe more and more new species of this pest.

How to protect seedlings and mature trees from aphids

Today, the chemical industry is actively developing and to combat insect pests, including aphids, can offer a wide range of pesticides. At the same time, experienced gardeners use folk pest control methods that have proven to be effective. In addition, biological methods of insect control are widely used as prevention. Next, we take a closer look at how to protect the apple crop from aphids.

However, considering the effectiveness of one or another method of controlling insect pests, one cannot call one method a panacea for all cases, since the effectiveness of measures depends on the conditions at the site, the number of trees and associated plants. Sometimes it is even necessary to apply all measures in the complex, because the aphid is a living organism, and it can develop addiction to one or another means.

Important! Do not underestimate the harm that the aphid does to an apple orchard. Many of its species spread dangerous diseases and plant viruses and can cause various anomalies, such as galls and gall-like formations, from which it is impossible to get rid of.

Chemical substances

If a large number of insects that eat aphids (for example, a ladybug) are not found on the garden plot, then it will be the most accurate way to destroy it with chemical preparations. It is very important not to miss the time while planning methods of dealing with aphids. Early spring, when the buds are just starting to bloom, and there is an optimal time to process the trees for aphids. During this period, the probability of burning the leaves is minimized, but the damage to the aphid larvae will be significant.

A very effective remedy for eliminating most species of hibernating larvae and insects is Nitrofen. It is necessary to dilute 200 g of the drug in 10 liters of water and process the infected tree before bud break. It is also highly effective «Olekuprit», its 4% solution also destroys aphids eggs. Before the flowering of the apple tree, Kinmiks can also be used. It is just shown to kill insects that suck the leaves from the juices and gnaw the plants.

The solution should be made according to the recommendations of the instructions, after spraying the drug will start working within an hour and protect the tree for two to three weeks. Other aphids on trees that are popular with gardeners are Karate and Inta-Vir. The first is highly economical consumption: 10 liters of solution is enough to process 1 hundred square meters of land. And the second, “Inta-Vir”, effectively fights with more than 50 types of pests, including apple aphids. A single spraying is not enough to completely destroy aphids; however, for re-treatment, sparing preparations are needed which will not burn the leaves. These include «Iskra», «Decis» and «Cypermethrin». «Spark» — an effective tool that will help destroy young larvae throughout the growing season of the apple tree. It is necessary to dissolve 1 tablet of the drug in 10 liters of water. You can spray the trees with this solution every 18-20 days.

Did you know? According to statistics, the average amount of apple treatment with pesticides during the growing season is in the southern latitudes — 13-16, in the middle — 8-10.

How to deal with aphids on apple folk methods

Even our ancestors knew how to get rid of pests on apple trees, gardeners use their recipes today. There are many types of infusions and solutions against insect pests that can be easily prepared at home using available tools. In addition, a big plus of such solutions is that they are environmentally friendly and are suitable for those who are skeptical of toxic chemicals. Experienced gardeners have long concluded that the aphid does not attack crops under which ash has been introduced due to its potassium and phosphorus content. Therefore, it is very effective to bring under the root top dressing containing ash, as well as to spray the apple from aphids with a solution of ash. To prepare the solution will need 10 liters of water and 2 cups of pre-sifted ash. In order to better adhere the solution, you can add 50 g of rubbed soap. Stir the mass and let it stand, then spray the plant, aiming at the opposite side of the leaves.

Helps to fight with aphids grass celandine. If it grows on your site, you can prepare a decoction for spraying. Kilogram celandine pour 3 liters of boiling water, then add to the solution another 7 liters of hot water. Allow this solution to infuse for 2 days, then spray the apple tree.

Garlic solution is another remedy than can be treated with aphids. You need to chop 5-6 cloves of garlic, soak them in 1/2 cup of water, leave for 24 hours. Then add 1 tsp. liquid soap and 2 tsp. vegetable oil. Stir and dilute the resulting mass with water in a three-liter jar. Treat affected areas with a spray bottle. It is well proven in the pest control tobacco solution, which is used immediately after the detection of aphids. Take 200 grams of dried tobacco or tobacco and for two days, draw in 5 liters of water. Then strain and add another 5 liters of water and 50 g of rubbed soap. Stir well and spray the trees. Another recipe is based on the use of onion peels: 200 g of peels insist in 10 liters of hot water for 4-5 days. Spray the affected aphids trees three times every 5 days.

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And the last recipe for complex aphid medicine on an apple tree, which experienced farmers consider the most effective. In a bucket of hot water, you need to dissolve 200 g of soap, a glass of steep broth of a shag, half a glass of sifted ash mixed with a quarter cup of kerosene. Even with the mass reproduction of aphids such a solution works fine.

Important! On the leaves of the apple can appear dark scurf, which means that the plant is affected by soot fungus. To get rid of this disease, you need to destroy aphids.

Biological methods: what to plant under an apple from aphids

The biological control method determines how to get rid of aphids on an apple tree using living organisms, as well as planting plants that scare them away.

Biological measures include:

  • destruction of anthills. Ants are advocates of aphids, because they feed on the sweet pad released by it;
  • planting beside apple trees of special plants that aphids do not like. The aroma of lavender, Dalmatian chamomile, calendula, tomato, garlic or tansy scares off various pests of fruit trees, including aphids. There are also plants that are extremely attractive for aphids, which in no case can not be planted near the apple tree. They are such as nasturtium, hypnotic poppy, kosmeya, mallow, tuberous begonia, viburnum and linden;
  • the construction of birdhouses and the creation of conditions for birds that peck aphids. They are sparrows, linnets, robins, tits;
  • the cultivation of insects such as ladybugs, hoverflies, golden-eyed flies and some species of wasps that eat aphids.

To attract the attention of these insects and birds, you need to plant fragrant and spicy herbs and nettles next to the apple tree.

Aphid Prevention on Apple Trees

Since it is not an easy task to fight with aphids on apple trees, requiring an integrated approach, it is not superfluous to observe some preventive measures in order to minimize the risk of a repeated pest attack. Before buying planting material, you need to carefully inspect it, because aphid can get to the site along with the seedlings.

Aphids can not bite through dense and elastic leaves, so timely and regular watering, application of fertilizing, mulching and sprinkling of treetops are necessary. It is also very important not to overload the apple tree with nitrogenous fertilizers, even organic ones, such as chicken dung. This also leads to aphids. Before leaving the apple orchard for the winter, it is necessary to destroy the aphid larvae that have settled for this period in the bark of the apple tree. To do this, in the autumn they are cleaning the bark of trees. Carefully, without damaging the healthy bark of the tree, scrape off the dead bark on the trunk and skeletal branches with a scraper or wire brush. First you need to lay a film so that the pieces of bark infected with aphids do not fall around the tree. Then collect everything and burn, along with the root shoots and wen, which are also cut off.

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There was a aphid on a seedling of pepper, how to deal with it?

There are several species of aphids, butThe most harmful for garden and garden plants are the aphids green and black midges. Aphid is an insect that reaches half a centimeter in length and feeds on the juice of plants, which in this case perish. It spoils cabbage, carrots, cucumbers, tomatoes and many other vegetable crops. Such a tiny insect reproduces very quickly and, moreover, in large quantities. Not only does aphid eat plants, it also releases a sticky liquid in which sooty fungi appear, leading to the death of plants.

When growing pepper seedlings, aphids are very dangerous, because, like peppers, they are very fond of heat and very quickly multiply in greenhouses, where they usually grow seedlings.

If aphids have appeared on pepper seedlings, then it is necessary to begin the fight with it immediately.

So, aphid on pepper seedlings, how to deal with this small but very dangerous pest?

There are many different methods of combating these parasites.

These sucking pest pests are dying from soapy water. You need to make a solution of soap and liquid detergent, and then spray the plants. This is a very reliable remedy for fighting aphids.

When aphids on pepper seedlings, how to deal with such an insatiable parasite?

There is a plant from the form of chamomile — pyrethrum. It helps a lot to get rid of aphids. Enough to put this flower near the seedlings, and all aphids will disappear, because this plant produces a substance that is deadly acting on such insects.

You still do not know what to do when aphids on pepper seedlings, how to deal with it?

There are other insects that are predatorsfor aphids, they eat it. They like to eat the aphids of ladybugs, they gladly eat it. But in order to attract into your garden of ladybirds, you need to grow millennia or find a more convenient way for you to attract these insects.

Destroy aphids and flower girls. That they settled with you, it is enough to grow chamomile or marigold or parsley and buckwheat.

If aphids on pepper seedlings, how to deal with it? No desire to attract other insects to your garden? There are other ways of fighting.

Effective means is spraying plants infected with aphids, but the desired result will only be in the case of the correct preparation of solutions:

1. Take 250 grams of finely chopped garlic and pour two liters of boiling water. Day to insist, then squeeze and add to the resulting infusion 20-30 grams of soaked laundry soap, and then pour all the water in an amount of 8 liters. For sprinkling take 10 liters of water and 2 liters of infusion.

2. One tablespoon of soda plus 40 grams of soda. soap and 1 liter of water. Do not insist, but immediately sprinkle.

3. About 30 grams of dry mustard powder brew in half a liter of water, insist for three days with the lid closed. Then add water to the total amount of liquid equal to ten liters.

You still have aphids on seedling pepper, but how to deal with it, you already know! If these methods do not suit you, then there are others.

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All About Aphids, and How to Kill Them

Good things come in small packages, or so the idiom goes. But annoying, destructive things can also come in small packages: just think about the crop-destroying aphid, sometimes referred to as “plant lice.” There is no lack of credible material on the internet to help you understand and control aphids. However, we’ve done the hard work for you and scoured dozens of sites to compile the most helpful information about this common garden pest, including how to control the population. Rely on this comprehensive article to learn about aphids, how to tell if they are present in your garden, what crops they most frequently damage, and how to be free of these tiny terrors.

Aphids at a Glance

Aphids are soft-bodied pear-shaped insects that come in a variety of colors like black, brown, red, pink, or green, and may even have transparent wings. On their exterior, they sport two short tubes that protrude back from their abdomen and have long antennae.

Aphids start out with wings held close to the body. If you see only winged aphids, this is a perfect time to engage in an all-out offense on the colony. Once they lose their wings, they are here to stay. What is worse than seeing these wingless visitors? Seeing a mixed aphid colony in which some have wings and some don’t: this means the area is overpopulated and the new winged aphids are determined to find a new home in a nearby crop.

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Shockingly, there are over 4000 species of aphids, which means they can appear in almost any environment, in any condition. Aphids feast on most fruit and vegetable plants, flowers, ornamentals, and shade trees.

How can I tell if I have aphids?

Perhaps you haven’t seen them (they are only 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch long), but more than likely you have seen evidence of their damage. Because aphids suck plant sap, one way to identify an infestation is to look at your leaves, branch tips, and flowers. They may appear distorted, deformed, curvy, or may just completely drop off. Further, aphids’ excrement is in the form of a sweet, sticky honeydew. This honeydew will develop a sooty mold fungus which blocks sunlight from getting to that area of plant leaf. It also attracts ants.

Aphids can transmit viruses from plant to plant. Look for yellow or mottled leaves plus stunted plant growth. Squash, cucumber, pumpkin, beet, melon, chard, bean, bok choy, lettuce, and potato are most commonly affected by aphid viruses. Keep an eye out in early spring for this type of damage, which is when aphids leave their winter habitats.

Why are aphids so hard to control?

Aphids’ reproductive systems work in overdrive mode. Females are asexual, meaning they can produce multiple young per day without even mating. Add to this her ability to reproduce with the males born in late summer and you end up with a steady stream of destructive aphids. It only takes 10-14 days for an infant aphid to become a fully grown adult.

Ways to control aphids

Here are 20 pesticides—15 natural and 5 synthetic—that can be used to control aphid populations.

1. Martha Stewart advocates the use of this do it yourself, all natural combination: peeled onions and garlic cloves combined with cayenne pepper and water. The beauty of this formula is that it will remain potent for up to one week if refrigerated.

2. AzaMax comes in a small 4-ounce bottle. Its active ingredient, Azadirachtin, is present in popular neem seeds. Customers agree that it works, and while the bottle costs $20, you only need to use 1 tablespoon per gallon of water.

3. Add 1 ounce of apple cider vinegar to 3 ounces of water. This formula will also work on fleas, but remember that some plants cannot tolerate cider’s acidity.

4. Garden Safe Insecticidal organic soap is derived from plant fatty acids and kills insects upon contact. It won’t harm honeybees or ladybugs, either. It’s also affordable and effective: 101 customers give this $5 product a 4-star average.

5. Or, use a bar of $4.50 Fels Naptha Soap. Grate the soap into water and you have your own economical insect soap. Learn how to make it here: http://www.littlehomesteaders.com/2013/09/homemade-insecticidal-soap/

6. A combination of garlic, onions, limes and another secret weapon–chilies—may do the trick. Stick a citrus fruit, chilies, peeled onions and garlic cloves into a blender with water to produce this mixture.

7. Believe it or not, a simple and affordable mixture of water and dish soap can wash away those pesky pests. Just combine ½ teaspoon of dish soap with 1 quart of water in a spray bottle.

8. Espoma Earth-tone 3n1 kills fungus, insects, and mites. The 16-ounce bottle of concentrate uses organic pyrethrins and sulfur and must be reapplied every 7-10 days or after rainfall. It is one of the more expensive organic solutions at nearly $20 since it uses 5 ounces of solution per gallon of water.

9. Here’s a mixture-free option. Since aphids are attracted to the color yellow, place something yellow in your garden (a tennis ball or yellow plastic cup will do) and cover it with petroleum jelly. The aphids will flock to the yellow-colored object and get stuck. Easy maintenance involves nothing more than periodically throwing away and replacing the object.

10. If you don’t feel like doing this yourself and are willing to shell out some money, these $13 yellow sticky aphid papers will serve the same purpose (15 per package).

11. Keep it simple and use lemon juice. Remove and boil lemon rinds for about 30 minutes and juice the lemon itself into a spray bottle. Squirt the lemon juice on the aphids and then squirt the boiled rind water in the soil to discourage re-habitation.

12. Captain Jack’s DeadBug Brew contains spinosad, a bacteria that lives in soil. Spinsosad was discovered in 1982 on a Caribbean island, thus the product’s fun name. A 16-ounce bottle of concentrate costs $17 and only requires 4 tablespoons per gallon of water. One consumer warned that it kills bees (as indicated directly on the product’s usage label), so if you have nearby honeybees, consider another product.

13. Mycoinsecticide is another biological agent that can stop aphids via transmission of a fungal infection. BotaniGard uses this insecticide type with no added chemicals, meaning it’s safe to use around your crops. $77 will buy you 1-pound of wettable powder to make your own solutions; this should last you awhile.

14. Any aphid control suggestion would be incomplete without mentioning the advantages of beneficial insects. When possible, attract aphid predators to your gardens, especially ladybugs. Ladybugs love cilantro, dill, fennel, caraway, wild carrot, and yarrow. Or, buy your own ladybugs. You’ll get 1500 for $7.50 and each bug may eat up to 50 aphids per day. Release them at sundown for best results, as ladybugs don’t fly at night.

15. Mineral oil is another potential aphid killer. Also known as horticultural oil, Monteray sells a 80% mineral oil solution for $25. Two to five tablespoons get mixed with a gallon of water from this 5-quart bottle, which also may contain petroleum distillates. Note that this product is toxic to fish and also harmful if absorbed through the skin.

16. Ortho Flower, Fruit, and Vegetable Insect Killer can be used in your vegetable garden. The main ingredient is acetamirprid, an odorless pesticide developed by Aventis CropSciences. While it is classified as unlikely to be a human carcinogen, it may be mildly toxic to bees. At $11.50 per 32-ounce bottle, it received favorable reviews.

17. An even more well-reviewed solution is Permethrin SFR. The same size bottle will cost you twice as much as Ortho’s product, but the concentrate will yield 20-96 gallons, according to the manufacturer. Despite the cost, almost 200 customers have given this product a 4.5 star average. The active ingredient is Permethrin itself, which also has medicinal applications for scabies and tick bites.

18. This Spectracide concentrate can make up to 96 gallons for only $14 with consistent positive results. Malathion, its active ingredient, is classified as having low human toxicity and is also used for similar medicinal applications as Permethrin.

19. FenvaStar uses 3.5% Esfenvalerate to control aphids; Esfenvalerate is a synthetic version of pyrethroid insecticide. In the U.S., a small amount is permissible in food and food manufacturers, so this product is deemed safe for vegetable gardens. Mixing 1 ounce of concentrate per gallon of water means you will pay about $2.50 per mixture.

20. If aphids have infested your vegetable transplants, products containing Spirotetrama may help. KONTOS solution can be used as a spray or drench and contains two pounds of Spirotetrama per gallon. This option is the most invasive, being distributed throughout the plant roots and new shoots, as opposed to simply coating the surface of leaves, like other products. This is also the most expensive option at $160 dollars.

Creative Commons Flickr photos courtesy of Michael M. S. and Umberto Salvagnin

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