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Your Pet, Our Priority

How can we help your family today?

Your Pet, Our Priority

How can we help your family today?

Cat Clinic of Greensboro


Welcome to Cat Clinic Of Greensboro! Since 1989, we have been serving the community as a full-service veterinary hospital. Over the years, our veterinarian clinic has remained devoted exclusively to feline care, and we offer a wide variety of services to meet the unique health care needs of your furry friends. From cat vaccinations to cat wellness visits, make your appointment with us today.

Cat Friendly Practice

Cat Friendly Practice

Cat Friendly Practice


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Hours of Operation

Why Choose Us?

Let’s face it. You love your furry friend more than anything in the world, so you want nothing but the best for them. We understand! That is why we provide the very best cat care in the Greensboro, NC area.

When you bring your cat to our veterinarian clinic you will be greeted by a very kind and courteous staff. All of our team members enjoy working with cats and care for your cat as much as you do. Our staff has all gone through various educational programs and training. At our veterinarian clinic, we offer a variety of services right in our facility. This way, you do not have to go elsewhere to get services. We take pride in knowing that you are entrusting us with your cats. Call us today for more information or to schedule services.

Client Testimonials & Reviews

At Cat Clinic of Greensboro, we value feedback from our clients. Here is a small sample of the many happy and healthy pets we have cared for since 1989.

Highly recommended. I’ve been taking my cats to the Cat Clinic for 21 years now. Caring and knowledgeable doctors and staff that are experts in their field. The best in feline veterinary care.

Absolutely the best staff. After 16 years going there, I have always been so pleased with the treatment and the concern for the well being of my pet. Riley is a lucky cat to be able to go see these great people at the Cat Clinic! EXCELLENT!

Everyone is simply the best! They walk, and talk «cat» language, and I would not take my Miss Mimi or Buddy to anyone or anyplace else!!


Parasite Control and Prevention

Introduction: It is important to realize that each region of the country will have different parasite problems and potentially different prevention/treatment programs. Therefore, it is important to involve a local veterinarian in all parasite control programs. Proper nutrition is of extreme importance in the control of the effects of parasitism. Animals in good condition and receiving adequate feed are often able to establish some resistance to internal parasites. Poorly fed animals are unable to cope with parasitism, and death losses are often great. Parasitic disease problems increase with intensification of production and lack of attention to strict sanitation.

Causative Agents: In general, parasites can be broken into two major categories: internal parasites (endoparasites) and external parasites (ectoparasites). Each parasite is then further classified into additional groups according to their structure, growth, and life cycles.

Internal parasites — general: Internal parasites may be divided into four (4) classifications:

  1. Roundworms — (Nematodes)
  2. Tapeworms — (Cestodes)
  3. Flukes — (Trematodes)
  4. Protozoa — (Coccidia)

The roundworms are by far the most economically important internal parasites of sheep and goats. Flukes produce damage of economic importance in some geographic areas, while adult tapeworms are usually of minor importance. The following lists contain some of the most common parasites found in small ruminants. These lists do not contain all possible parasites.

Internal Parasites Common to Sheep and Goats:

  1. Large stomach worm, barber pole worm, twisted worm — Haemonchus
  2. Brown stomach worm — Ostertagia
  3. Stomach/intestinal hairworm, small stomach worm — Trichostrongylus
  4. Thread-necked worm — Nematodirus
  5. Hookworm — Bunostomum
  6. Nodular worm — Oesophagostomum
  7. Large-mouthed bowel worm — Chabertia
  8. Whipworm — Trichuris
  9. Large lungworm — Dictyocaulus filaria
  10. Cooperia
  11. Strongyloides

  1. Broad tapeworm — Moniezia expansa
  2. Fringed tapeworm — Thysanosoma actinioides
  3. Hydatid cysts — Echinococcus granulosus
  4. Cysticercosis — Taenia ovis
  5. Taenia hydatigena
  6. Gid — Taenia multiceps

  1. Common liver fluke — Fasciola hepatica

  1. Coccidia (coccidiosis) — Eimeria

External Parasites Common to Sheep and Goats:

  1. Lice — Damalinia
  2. Mites — Chorioptes, Psoroptes, Sarcoptes, Demodex
  3. Flies — Lucilia, Calliphora, Chrysomya
  4. Ked — Melophagus ovinus
  5. Ticks
  6. Nasal bot— Oestrus ovis

Locations of Common Stomach and Intestinal Roundworms:


Large intestine:

Small intestine:

Clinical Signs: Signs of parasite infestation are most common in young, very old, or diseased animals. Each infected animal, depending on the parasite or parasites it is infected with, will have different signs of disease. In general, most infections cause weight loss, unthriftiness, and poor weight gains. Some parasites can cause diarrhea, decreased appetite, poor conception rates, and fluid retention (bottle jaw). Parasites can also cause poor fiber production.

Disease Transmission: Some internal parasites are spread by orally ingesting the infective stage of the parasite. This most commonly occurs during grazing. External parasites and some internal parasites are spread by direct contact or having infested animals in close association with other animals. The following diagram shows the various routes that are commonly used by parasites to enter the host animal.

  1. Internal parasites — Most of these infections can be detected using a fecal egg count. This is done by collecting a fecal sample and sending it to a local veterinarian for fecal flotation. See page D228 for more specifics. Often these infections can also be diagnosed at necropsy.
  2. External Parasites — Parasites or the signs associated with infestations
    can be observed upon routine examination of the animal.

Fundamentals of Internal Parasite Control: When considering the prevention of internal parasite infections, it is important to focus on two major areas:

  1. Avoid grazing on pastures and areas with large populations of worm larvae.
  2. Prevent pasture contamination with large populations of worm larvae.

Avoid Contaminated Pasture: Susceptible sheep and goats should be moved to «safe» (parasite free) pasture at critical times. The following grazing areas are listed in order from the most parasite free, to the areas where parasite numbers can be excessive:

  • Previously ungrazed crops and stubbles.
  • Pastures not grazed by sheep or goats for 3-6 months.
  • Pastures grazed by wethers or dry ewes/does during late summer/fall.
  • Pastures grazed during the spring by ewes or does about to lamb or kid.

Prevent Pasture Contamination: Parasite eggs are deposited on pasture by worm-infected sheep or goats. The parasites are then spread to other animals when they ingest the infective stage of the parasite. To prevent eggs from contaminating pasture and infecting other animals, de-worming is an essential part of management. (See page C174 for drenching procedures.) When animals are de-wormed, then moved to a safe pasture (stubble or cattle pasture), they will not significantly contaminate the pasture with eggs for several months. Because of the added stress placed on the ewe/doe after lambing or kidding, an increase in parasite egg shedding is often noticed. Proper management of these females prior to and after giving birth can help reduce egg shedding and pasture contamination.

Treatment/Prevention: The following recommendations are the general basis of parasite control. They are not intended to be rigid guidelines and should be varied, even between pastures on individual farms or ranches where experience indicates that more or less control is needed. Also, the timing of de-worming may be altered to suit individual producer needs. All these decisions should be made with the help of a local veterinarian. Many of the products that are discussed in this manual are not approved for goats and sheep. Therefore, their use would be considered extra label. Many times, goats require doses that are 1.5 times higher than the typical sheep dose for many of the internal parasite products. Some veterinarians recommend giving only oral internal parasite products to goats. Studies indicate that many of the pour-on products are not very effective in sheep and goats. Refer to Section G for dosage information.

The Following Practices are Recommend in All Areas:

  • To stop intestinal worms from accumulating, do not use the same pastures for lambing or kidding every year.
  • Rotate pastures used for grazing every 3-6 months.
  • If clean grazing such as stubble is available, sheep or goats should be given an effective broad spectrum de-wormer before they are moved on to it.
  • If possible, all animals that are de-wormed should be held in a dry lot for at least 3 days. This is because most de-wormers do not kill the parasite eggs, just the adults worms. Waiting 3 days will help the animal eliminate most of the parasite eggs in the dry lot and not on pasture where other animals may ingest the eggs.
  • Prevent the post-lambing/kidding rise in parasite egg production.
  • Have a veterinarian perform a fecal egg count to check the effectiveness of any de-worming or parasite control programs. This should be done 10-14 days after de-worming. Use these fecal egg counts to determine whether sheep or goats need additional de-wormings.
  • Avoid resistance problems by not using the same products year after year.
  • Select for animals that are parasite-resistant. These are sheep and goats that have a natural resistance to internal parasites. These animals are often identified through the use of fecal egg counts.

De-worming Program for Internal Parasites: In general, there are four common times when animals are de-wormed:

  1. In colder climates where the animals are moved off of pasture for the winter, a dose can be given just before the move is made.
  2. A second time for de-worming occurs 1 month prior to the lambing/kidding season. De-worming ewes/does about 2-4 weeks before lambing/kidding and then moving them to a safe pasture, will prevent the rise in production of worm eggs after lambing/kidding. If the ewes/does are not moved after this dose, additional doses are required at 3 week intervals throughout the lambing/kidding season. The final dose should be given 2-4 weeks after the last lamb/kid is born.
  3. A de-wormer for lambs or kids at weaning should also be given. After the de-worming, the lambs/kids should be moved to a «safe» pasture.
  4. Breeding males are often de-wormed 1 month before the breeding season.

Products Used to Treat Internal Parasites: Different treatments are based on the common parasites encountered and geographical location. The following table identifies the most common products used for parasite control and what parasites they are effective against.

Brand Name (Active Ingredient) **Effective Against
*Ivomec Sheep Drench (Ivermectin) # 1-11, 21, 25
*Tramisol or Levasole (Levamisole) # 1-7, 9, 10
*Bovatec (Lasalocid Sodium) # 19
*Rumensin (Monensin) # 19
*Corid (Amprolium) # 19
*Dectomax (Doramectin) # 1-11, 21
*Valbazen (Albendazole) # 1-4, 7, 10, 12, 18
*Panacur (Fenbendazole) # 1-4, 7, 10-12

* Many of these products are not labeled for use in goats and often sheep. Their use in these cases is considered «extra-label.»

** These numbers correspond with the numbers above.

Products Used to Treat External Parasites: Most external parasites are controlled on a flock/herd wide basis. This means that when one animal is diagnosed with external parasites, a dip, dust, or spray is used to treat the problem that animal as well as the entire flock/herd. The following table outlines the common products and the treatments used to treat the external parasites:

Active Ingredient Effective Against **Treatments
*Malathion Mites, lice, keds 0.5% spray; 4% dust
*Lime-sulfur Mites, lice, keds 2-5% dip
*Coumaphos Mites, lice, keds 0.05-0.3% spray or dip; 0.5%-1% dust
*Phosmet Mites, lice, keds 0.15-0.25% dip
*Methoxychlor Mites, lice, keds, ticks 0.5% spray or dip; 5% dust

* These products are not labeled for use in sheep and goats. Their use in these animals is considered «extra-label.»

** Many of the dose recommendations used came from Pugh DG: Sheep & Goat Medicine, Ed 1, Philadelphia, 2002, WB Saunders.




External Parasite Life Cycles:



Nasal Bot Fly


One Host Tick

Two Host Tick


Non-Toxic Flea Control (Ticks, Too!)

Sane Alternatives to Poisons

There is probably no area in a pet’s life that takes so much attention to detail as flea control.

To do this well makes life with animals easy and fun, yet to do it wrong or incompletely can make your pet sick and make your life together miserable.

Tick control has long been a challenge to do non-toxically, but I’ve finally got some answers, as you can read about towards the bottom of this page.

Poisoning your pet is not a smart choice. Put non-toxic flea control to work for your animals today. I’ll show you how.

You also have concerns about heartworm, right? Who doesn’t?

Yet, very few alternatives to HW pesticides actually have any history of being effective. And most vets say no alternatives exist.

Ha! Check this out for a completely different take on that pest and what you can do about it.

Breaking the Pest Population Down

Let’s consider the flea’s life cycle a bit to get a perspective on controlling this beast (who’s been here for millennia and is not likely to leave without some very concerted efforts).

If you picture a population pyramid of fleas as a representation of the relative numbers of the various life stages that exist at any given moment, the bothersome adult fleas that bite and cause problems would be only the very top, about 5% of the total.

The broad base of the pyramid is the vast number of eggs, 50% of the total population.

These are laid both on and off the host animal, and are awaiting proper conditions to hatch and begin a new generation.

The next major population segment is the larvae (35% of the total), which emerge from the eggs and feed on debris and organic matter in carpets, soil, or in cracks and baseboards.

Then, above these, a relatively small segment of the total (10%), are the pupae, suspended in a cocoon that seems impervious to all control efforts, natural or otherwise.

Bottom Line: Hit the Base — Eggs and Larvae!

So, from a purely statistical point of view, the efforts to control this pest that are directed at the eggs and larvae will yield the best results, and prevent future generations from being born.

Unfortunately, most of the flea control products are directed at the bothersome adult fleas, and most of these are toxic chemicals that are poisonous to your pet and you.

Don’t Make Things Worse

The end result of bombs, sprays, dips, “spot-ons,” and the like, is resistant fleas and sick people and pets. Why?

It’s the same story that happens with any antibiotic, pesticide, or herbicide: a certain percentage of every population of “pest” is resistant to any given chemical.

When the chemical is used, these resistant microbes, parasites, or weeds breed and begin a new strain that simply ignores the chemical.

New chemicals are sought that are increasingly less safe to the humans and animals they contact, and resistance develops at each new turn.

In case you’ve had only good experiences putting these topical pesticides on your animal, your neighbors have not, and the Environmental Protection Agency is investigating:

This from the Pennsylvania Veterinary Medical Association’s newsletter:

In response to more than 44,000 potential adverse reactions to spot-on flea and tick products reported in 2008, the Environmental Protection Agency is intensifying its evaluation of these products. No recalls have been issued at this time. The AVMA will continue to maintain contact with the EPA and monitor the situation, and updates will be posted as they come to our attention.

[This newsletter has disappeared. For an industry watered down version, see EPA Cautions Consumers]

For information about reporting adverse events: National Pesticide Information Center

And this from the EPA itself:

U.S. and Canada to Increase Scrutiny of Flea and Tick Pet Products

(Washington, DC – April 16, 2009) The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency is intensifying its evaluation of spot-on pesticide products for flea and tick control for pets due to recent increases in the number of reported incidents. Adverse reactions reported range from mild effects such as skin irritation to more serious effects such as seizures and, in some cases, the death of pets. (emphasis mine) . . .

Incidents with flea and tick products can involve the use of spot-on treatments, sprays, collars and shampoos.

However, the majority of the incidents reported to EPA are related to flea and tick treatments with EPA-registered spot-on products. (emphasis mine)

[To read the complete EPA news release, click here.]

The good news is that there are effective, safe, non-toxic ways to address the flea population where it counts and not make everyone sick in doing so.

Non-toxic flea control is currently being practiced widely in the world. It just doesn’t make the headlines.

There are two main areas to address the major segments of the flea population, the eggs and larvae (remember, they’re 85% of the population).


Let’s start with the outdoor environment first.

If your animals spend a fair amount of time in a grassy yard, there is a biological control that can be used to prey on the flea larvae in the soil.

A nematode, which is a tiny worm, is applied via lawn sprayer, and, within 24 hours, brings about a 90% decrease in the number of flea larvae.

In Austin, there’s ANTidote, which preys on fire ants as well as fleas! (A real boon here in Texas.)

They’re sold through pet stores and garden suppliers, like The Natural Gardener.

Not in Austin? No problem. DoMyOwnPestControl will ship live nematodes to you, where ever you live, and their shipping is free. Click on this link, and grab some of these beneficial soil organisms for use around your yard.

Too many acres to treat with nematodes? Don’t!

Just do the main areas close to your house, where your dog spends most of his time.

Use them in warm weather, and ideally after a good rain has soaked the ground.

Nematodes have no adverse affect on anything but the pest, and they have the side benefit of helping in the garden against cutworms and grubs.

As with all biological controls, the predators need to be reintroduced periodically, because they eat all the prey species and die off for lack of food.

Follow the label instructions, which usually recommend wetting the soil well before application, to give the nematodes a good start.


In the household, we have two choices for non-toxic flea control, depending on the type of flooring.

Mostly carpet: In this case, you can do a very inexpensive treatment that gets to the larvae quite effectively without much risk of resistance developing and without significant toxicity to people or pets.

There are a number of boric acid products on the market that are variously marketed as flea controllers or carpet deodorizers. They work by putting a powder in the carpet that remains there even after vacuuming (because of the fine particle size).

Flea larvae are killed by contacting the borate power, yet the mammals in the house are safe due to its extremely low toxicity.

One of the best products is Flea Stoppers. I also have good reports of people applying good ‘ole 20 Mule Team Borax (sold as a detergent booster for washing clothes)!

These products are applied by shaking the powder on the carpet until it turns lightly white, brushing it in with a broom, and then vacuuming the carpet. Most applications are good for a year.

It’s best not to inhale the dust as you are working it in, so wearing a mask is advised, as is removing the animals during application.

If you shampoo your carpet, you’ll of course have to repeat the application.

Mostly bare floors: There is a very safe chemical called Nylar, which is a flea growth regulator.

This is sprayed on floors, kennels, bedding, and any furniture that is commonly used as a resting place for the pet.

Its action is to prevent eggs from hatching and larvae from molting to adults.

It does this by mimicking a juvenile hormone in the insect, and keeps the young from ever becoming adults.

As you remember, this is the goal of successful flea control: no more biting flea adults!

Once-a-year application should be sufficient in most cases, unless floors or kennels are washed or exposed to rain.

It is difficult to find this chemical alone. It is often combined with adulticides (read: poisons).

So it becomes imperative for consumers to be label detectives.

The folks at DoMyOwnPestControl.com have what I used to sell in my office, a product called NyGuard EZ1, which is an ounce concentrate that treats 1500 square feet, and is free of adulticides.

Yo! Eggs! Larvae! Where are You? I’m Comin’ for You!

The key indoors seems to be thinking of all the places where your pet rests.

These are all places where flea eggs, laid on the pet by the feeding female, roll off and try to get a new generation started.

If the sofa is a dog bed, the cushions need to be pulled and the crack between back and seat treated with borates or Nylar.

If your cat climbs into bed with you, normal washing of bedding in hot water and drying in the dryer is sufficient to prevent this area from becoming a breeding ground.

If you’re still seeing fleas after applying these non-toxic flea control methods, think of all the places your pet rests.

Are they treated in ways that prevent fleas from growing to the next generation?

But What About My Flea-ridden Animal??

For those adult fleas bothering your pet, a good flea comb is your best tool while you wait for the control to begin to work.

Adult fleas may live many weeks, and you may get some new ones born on occasion from the pupae that are awaiting proper conditions to hatch, so there needs to be some attention paid here, as well as a certain amount of patience.

Typically, this safer approach takes about a 3-4 weeks to show a noticeable decrease in the flea population.

Use the flea comb over all of the animal on a daily basis, and as you catch fleas, dunk the comb into a glass of soapy water to drown them.

Did you know that a bath with anything that makes lather will drown fleas?

Just leave the lather on for 3-5 minutes, and no toxic chemicals need be used.

Now, I don’t recommend bathing as a means of flea control routinely, as bathing dries out the skin.

And it certainly won’t control fleas alone. But, if you’re in a tight spot and the fleas have exploded, it can be a quick solution to get you some sanity.

And if you add a dropper or two of essential oils (lavender, citronella, tea tree, eucalyptus, etc.) to the bath, you’ll have a pretty good repellent to discourage the next wave from jumping on your pal.

Also note: this is really not a cat recommendation, as the cat can be quite sensitive to essential oils and get sick from them.

Best to stick to the dogs for this one, or at least be very careful with the dose in cats.

Also, as both cats and dogs are far more sensitive to odors than we are, don’t use these in strong concentrations or frequently.

Imagine sitting next to a highly perfumed woman on an airplane and not being able to choose another seat for hours!

Finally, while I always thought any shampoos would work equally well, I’ve got a client who swears by Johnson’s Baby Shampoo, and she says it works better than any other she’s tried.

[Oh, oh. update July 2016: my reader Scotia tells me Johnson’s used to have formaldehyde in this shampoo! Supposedly removed it, but now I’d drop it and recommend Dr. Bronner’s instead. Lavender or Eucalyptus versions ought to repel new adult fleas and drown the ones already present.]

Now, for Indoors, Outdoors, and On the Animal: Control Fleas and Ticks with a Safe Line of Products!

There have been very few choices I’d trust in pest control over the years, but I’ve come upon one in Austin that shows promise for both premises pest control and even on-the-animal prevention: natural cedar oil products from Wondercide.

It turns out that cedar oil works well on both fleas and ticks, and is safe for the mammals, be they pets or human folk.

It acts by interrupting the pheromones of these pests, which is the way they communicate and find their prey and their mates.

My friend Stephanie Boone owns this boot-strapped business, and she and her partner were on Shark Tank and won!

They get the cedar oil from trees that get cleared here in Texas, and put it into a natural line of products that are safe and effective.

Topically, the animal product is Flea & Tick, which both kills fleas and ticks on your dog, and acts as a repellant when used before going into areas that may be infested with either.

The company says this is safe for cats as well, but I’m conservative here.

My poll results of several years revealed a few too many cats having a hard time with cedar oil (though I’d rarely get an answer as to whether they started with a small area of fur to treat, as I suggested: I suspect not).

So, bottom line: use cautiously on those of the feline persuasion, if at all.

You can also find products that work to fog your living quarters and treat your yard.

This may be a boon when it’s too dry for the nematodes to reproduce in the soil.

The staff at Wondercide will field your questions and tell you the best fit for your situation.

Just visit their Contact page, call during working hours, and they’ll either answer or call you right back.

What About Garlic and Yeast?

Sure, it can help to feed garlic and yeast to dogs and cats. This gives them some extra B vitamins and makes them not so tasty to the flea.

The only caution is that you not depend on this as your sole means of controlling fleas.

For cats, a teaspoonful of yeast flakes (nutritional, not baking), and a small clove of garlic daily should be adequate.

For big breeds of dogs, up to 1/4 cup of yeast and a few big cloves is a decent dose, and for those in between, adjust according to body weight.

A useful guideline is a 1/2 clove of garlic per 10 lbs of bodyweight.

There’s value in mincing the garlic and letting it sit in the air for 10 minutes before feeding. Chemistry magic happens with the presence of oxygen that adds to garlic’s potency.

Perhaps easier and safer are the treats sold with these ingredients in them.

And a (mild) caution: garlic, like onions, in very, very high doses can cause anemia in pets.

This is largely over emphasized, and an overdose would be, for a 50 lb dog, on the order of 70 cloves!

Only Natural Pet has a tasty soft chew treat based on Brewer’s Yeast and Garlic, if you don’t want to mess with these two separately. Safe levels of garlic, and 100% guaranteed, so you can’t go wrong.

You can CLICK on the BAG for details:

Repellent Herbal Spray (not for cats)

Other repellent herbs (like those mentioned above) can be applied before walks in the park to deter new additions to the population.

But with your environmental controls in place, you needn’t worry much about newcomers — they can’t set up a new generation and they’ll fall prey to your flea comb, or next bath.

To use these herbs, get the essential oil(s) and add a large dropper full of one or a combination of several to a quart misting bottle and spray your animal’s coat. Avoid eye contact.

I Bet You Don’t Like The “Flea Pill,” Right?

I’m afraid not. Mainly because I see us already subjecting our animals to a stew of chemicals that they are not genetically equipped to deal with.

Evolution has not equipped the animals (or us) to detoxify and live compatibly with these foreign compounds — they are too new to the scene.

While the company claims safety, the testing data is relatively short term (6-8 months at the longest), and once it’s out on the market, there is no incentive to follow that product long term to see if there is any greater incidence of cancer, allergies, autoimmune disorders, etc. in those animals taking the pill.

Also, any chemical that works by polluting the blood of the animal as a way to get to the flea leaves me a bit cold.

Think about it in human terms. Say a big petrochemical/pharmaceutical firm came out with a monthly mosquito control pill for you to take.

The instructions are to take it with food, and the mosquitoes must bite you to get a drink of the chemical; then their eggs would fail to hold together and slowly there would be fewer mosquitoes.

Would you take it?

That example above is for lufenuron. The newer generation is even scarier: Bravecto . It uses your pet’s blood stream to actually KILL fleas and ticks.

Kills within two hours of ingestion and keeps killing for up to 12 weeks. Sheesh.

How ‘bout Them Topical Tubes, eh?

Ah, what a convenience! Just don’t get it on your skin. Wait. What?

“Read that label again, will you Jane?”

“It says it’s OK to put on Spot’s skin, but not OK to get it on mine. Hmmm, and I shouldn’t eat, drink, smoke, or scratch myself while applying this? This doesn’t sound safe, Dick!”

“Well, I guess not, Jane! Say, you don’t smoke, do you?”

The Bottom Line

Finally, fleas, like any parasite, are more attracted to the weak animals.

You’ll see this clearly in multi-animal households.

“Old Bowzer really gets the most fleas. Always has.”

So, it pays big dividends to have your animal as healthy as possible, not only for fleas, but for heartworm prevention, disease resistance, stamina, and long life.

That’s really the goal for all problems.

Review the information I have on other pages regarding nutrition, vaccinations, heartworm, and immunity.

Give your pet the greatest gift possible: radiant health! Fleas won’t be attracted to the healthy animal, and that health, plus this method, keeps these critters at bay without poisoning anyone in the process.

Here’s the very same IGR I used for years in my clinic for my clients with mostly bare floors, kennels, outside dog houses, etc.

The Nylar prevents flea eggs from hatching and flea larvae from molting to adults. It’s a very safe compound.

NyGuard IGR
from: DoMyOwnPestControl.com

Same safe chemical Flea Busters uses. At a fraction of the price.

Rid your house of fleas all year with one easy application.

Flea Stoppers is a nontoxic borate crystal salt that dissolves the waxy protective coating on fleas, eggs, and larvae.

Because its killing action is mechanical, not chemical, fleas cannot become immune to its effects.

from: Do It Yourself Pest Control

So, do your animals a solid and take a bold stand against the madness of poisons. Keep the pesticides out of your world entirely.


See also:  Home Remedies for Bug Bites That Actually Work, Reader - s Digest
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