Preventive measures or how to deal with the May-bug on the plot and strawberries?

We have previously considered the question of where all possible methods and measures for dealing with the larvae of the May Beetle were studied.

Of no less interest to gardeners and farmers is the actual problem. struggle with the may beetle itself (crunchy).

With the onset of May, these insects flooded forests and gardenseating young foliage of fruit trees, berry and flower bushes.

Most often, the need to get rid of the cockchafer arises not because of the lumps themselves, but because of the larvae they lay more voracious creatures. How to get rid of the cockchafer on the site? Methods of struggle may vary depending on plantation typeto be protected from the pest, the number of individuals found, the type of crop that the insect attacked, etc.

Cockchafer: how to fight?

In the garden

How to act if the cockchafer wound up on the garden? First of all it is necessary to protect from the encroachment on the garden deciduous trees (birch, sea buckthorn, plum, apple, cherry) and bushes (strawberries, lilacs, currants, etc.).

In the mornings and in the evening, beetles gather in the vegetation for a meal, most often the weather calm and cool.

It is during this period that you can check all the trees and bushes, shaking to the ground uninvited guests.

Use when the activity of the beetles is practically at zero, wide sheets of film and long poles for more convenient pest collection. Found insects can be used as bait for fish or poultry feed. Otherwise, they are better. trample or burn.

How to deal with the May beetle in the garden? There are plants whose fragrance or substances secreted by the stems and roots cause insects persistent hostility. For the May beetles it is mustard, marigold, beans, turnips, elder, lupine, white clover and various varieties of cabbage.

If you plant any of these plants in a garden near trees or bushes that are attractive to the pest, the Maybug unlikely to settle on your site.

To prevent the beetles from laying eggs in your garden, disperse various obstacles on the ground. These can be walnut shells, hard wood bark, eggshells, shavings or straw. Thanks to such a protective layer of mulch, beetles will not be able to easily and quickly penetrate the ground, and most likely will go in search of more successful places for future offspring.

From folk remedies can help onion solutionwhich periodically watered the soil in the places of occurrence of pests. On a bucket of water you will need up to 1/3 of onion peel. The solution will be ready for use after 4-5 days. Then it can be diluted with water again. The plants themselves need to be watered with a solution — only land.

In strawberry

How to get rid of the May beetle on strawberries? Especially for scaring the may-beetle make up and sprayed with various solutions plantations of berries like strawberries, raspberries and strawberries.

At 10 liters. water will need to dissolve 1-3 tablespoons of liquid ammonia or 15 drops of iodine per 10 liters.

Optimal spraying garden bushes 2-3 times with an interval of a week. The weather should be warm and not rainy.

Methods of struggle

How to destroy the May beetle? The fight with the May beetle and its larvae should be complex.

This method will become a diversion for the Khrushchev, preventing them from not only eating the leaves of the trees, but also landing on the ground in the garden to lay eggs. For this quite fit big plastic bottles (2-4 liters), which are attached to a tree branch with ropes or a strong cord, preferably closer to the trunk, so that the branch does not accidentally break off.

Carefully trim the top of the bottle, where the throat begins, so that the Maybirds can freely fall inside. Each capacity must be 1/4 or 1/3 full drink bait.

The next day, remove the container and remove the caught beetles (one can accumulate up to 20 pieces) change bait and hang it in the trees again. So that the beetles probably could not get out of the bottle, smear the inner edges with a thick cream or cut the cloves-pegs, bending them inward, towards the bottom.

How to make a syrup bait — photo:

For females can be arranged longevity baitby distributing in several places in the garden a handful of compost or manure. Beetles will identify these sectors as the most favorable for future offspring, and lay eggs beneath the ground near them.


First and the easiest kind of trap for Khrushchev does not require special costs. It is enough to hang a lantern near the wall, and at the bottom bucket of water and kerosene. Attracted by a bright light, the May beetles will strike against an obstacle and subsequently die in a bucket or basin of liquid.

The second method is more effective and cunning. As a deep tank you can take three-liter jar, and in the throat to place a plastic or metal funnel with a wide tip (so that the beetles freely fell to the bottom of the container). Above the trap is suspended bright light bulb. With the onset of the morning from the banks you can already get a good catch of May beetles.

Another most economical type of trapping is combination of the first method and glue. In a bucket or other container with high wide walls is placed Light source (you can make a hole in the base of the old bucket and attach a lamp there, excluding the gaps and gaps for the escape of beetles), and the edges of the container are smeared with 4-8 cm thick layer cream, grease or special glue against insects. Getting to the bottom of the bucket, May beetles simply can not get out because of the slippery and high walls.

Light trap option — photo:

If there is no wall in your area about any insects attracted by light, then stretch them upright between trees thick white fabric. Any veil or old sheet will do. Directing a beam of light on the canvas, you will attract a smaller number of insects.

Avoid following such innovative advice as laying out adhesive films on the ground near light or beer baits. With the onset of sunrise, you risk finding innocent people there pets or hedgehogscaught in a sticky trap.


One of the most durable and tedious ways — extirpation of not yet mature larvae. Digging the ground between the rows of garden plantings of 10-40 cm will make it possible to find larvae of Khrushchev deep under the ground, which spoil the potato tubers or gnaw the roots of other plants. All pests can not be overfished, but partially reduce the population, increasing the chances of saving the crop.

Natural enemies

The most ecological and safe method is to run to the site. natural predators, in whose diet the cockchafer is included. Among them hedgehogs, moles and birds. Gardeners told of cases when their pets (cats and dogs) caught insects from sports interest right on the fly and brought them to their owners.

To attract starlings, thrushes and other birds you can install a water bowl and a swimsuitand hang on nearby trees and pillars nesting boxes. Regular feeding will make the birds understand that there are delicious insects in your garden, but it can create another problem. Once you get rid of the crunchy, you have to look for ways to protect the seeds and berries from feathered rescuers.


Against the beetles, intestinal-contact means «Aktara» and «Confidor» are effective.

They are introduced into the soil in the form of a solution diluted with water, then penetrate into the plants, already from there, getting into the body of voracious crunches with eaten leaves and stems, block the food centers after several hours.

In a day or two the insects are just die of hunger. You can learn more about the means of fighting the cockchafer and its larvae from our article.


Depending on the methods of struggle to which you are accustomed, on the size of the garden plot and the available finances, you can use against folk traditional means, and modern — using chemical preparations.

Most profitable and efficient the solution will be a combination of several ways. Do not underestimate the power of elementary light traps and the natural enemies of Khrushchev.

the main thing timely breed adults May beetle from its territory, so that in the next seasons you do not have to start a fight with their larvae.

How to get rid of a wire beetle: folk remedies and preparations

No, of course, fight. On how to get rid of this pest, what effective folk and non-native means and preparations for this use — in our article.

The enemy must know in person

The wireworm is the name of the larva of the click beetle,given to her because of the appearance: a thin hard little pale pink body. Just like the beetle itself, larvae are extremely dangerous not only for potatoes, but also for other root crops. Somewhere in July, insects gnaw through the tubers long, twisting courses.

As a result, not only the appearance: The plant weakens, yields less crops, spreads various diseases and rot. If you do not fight a wire beetle, you can lose at least half of the entire potato crop.

How to deal with the beetle-bug in the garden

Methods of struggle can be divided into mechanical, chemical and mixed. The mechanical is, above all, regular digging of the soil. It is necessary to do this before the onset of cold weather, so that the insect that hibernates in the soil is on the surface and frozen.

The next method is manual wire cleaning. Getting rid of wheat grass and other weeds, and also qualitatively hitching the row spacing, you can cause the larvae serious damage. To chemical methods carry various kinds of spraying: ready isecticides, as well as self-made solutions. One of the most effective methods of struggle is the production of baits and traps (the so-called mixed method). It is worth discussing it in more detail.

Folk remedies for wireworms

Traps are a national means of production. In spring, potato tubers are laid in small holes, and the place is marked with a special flag. After a few days, the potato is excavated along with the wireworms, the insect is destroyed, and the bait is laid again.

Also as a bait, you can trysow potato beds with oats, corn or barley, and then dig out the crops along with the pests. It has long been noted that a wireworm can not live where legumes grow (peas, beans), so you should try planting these plants between potato beds.

How to fight with a wireworm in the garden folk remedies

Than to process a potato from a wireworm

If all of the above methods do not seem tosufficiently effective, then you can resort to the help of chemicals. First, try to reduce the acidity of the soil by adding ash, limestone or dolomite flour to it.

Larvae of the click beetle can not be normaldevelop in such an environment. Further, before planting potatoes, you can add a solution of potassium permanganate to the ground, or for five minutes put seeds into it for planting. Watering the shoots is infused with mother-and-stepmother, nettle, celandine, dandelion. Repeat the procedure must be done regularly.

If you have nothing against seed treatment with insecticides, then such drugs as «Bazudin» or «Zemlin», «Kapkan», «Dohloks», «Grom-2» are considered very effective.

Before planting potatoes in the holes, you canlay down appropriate preparations (for example, Green Balt), if necessary, add herbicides. There are many effective chemical products on the market, however, only natural means should be used if possible.

Radish pests

Smooth, bright radish marketable causes joy and pride in the work done on the site. But a tasty root vegetable is pleasant not only to people, but also insects, therefore it is not always possible to get a beautiful crop. There are many pests that can spoil a radish, destroy its tops or pulp. If you do not fight them, they will quickly spread, filling the site. The article will describe the pests of radish and methods of combating them.

Signs of pests on radish

Photo signs of the appearance of pests on radishes

It is even easier to notice pests on a radish, than diseases, because they are visible to the naked eye, and if we are talking about underground pests, then the appearance of the tops or a dug root crop will help to determine. There are several major signs of pests:

  • leaf ulcers;
  • twisted, yellow leaves;
  • black formations on the basis of sheets;
  • for no reason, sluggish, drooping;
  • leaflets in the holes, which could not appear in any other way except from caterpillars and other pests;
  • on the radish itself visible holes, tunnels.

Important! Especially vigilantly need to follow the young shoots of radish. They are very vulnerable and if the pests attack them, you can lose the entire crop!

Usually insects eat the leaves immediately, although the underground ones can start from the root or root, so you need to be careful. And at the first sign of response.

The main pests of radish

Photos of the main pests of radish

Radish pests do not appear spontaneously in the garden. Usually they switch to radishes from other crops or from weeds that are present on the plot.

  • The cabbage whitefish is a white butterfly with a black border around the edge of the wing. She lays eggs in areas where radishes grow, and the hatching caterpillars eat the bases of the radish leaves. This leads to the fact that the root crop stops growing and may simply not grow.
  • Cruciferous flea is one of the most dangerous enemies of radish. She eats still young leaves of radish, gnawing holes in them when they first appear. After their invasion, the bed with plantings resembles a sieve.
  • Wireworm — a pest known to any gardener. This is the larva of the click beetle, which can destroy the entire plant — the land and underground parts in a short time.
  • Cabbage and garden shovel — gray-brown butterflies, which also leave the clutch on the leaves of radish. The larvae that have emerged from them eat the leaves, while only transparent skeletons remain from the green tops. Of course, the roots in the ground cease to develop completely and shrink or rot.
  • Cabbage moth is a gray-brown insect with a remarkable fringe on its wings. The mole itself is not harmful to radish, but its larvae suck up the juice from the tops and eat leaf tissue.
  • Spring and summer cabbage fly — an ash-colored insect (summer is usually larger than the spring one). Among the plantings of radish and other vegetables, she lays eggs, and white larvae (worms) hatching from them, penetrate deep into the ground and eat the roots of radish. Already in 2-3 days the radish becomes worthless.

As you can see pests that threaten radish very much. But if you know how to deal with them, you can not worry about the crop or its quality.

How to deal with radish pests?

Photo of preparations for the control of radish pests

When the gardener has recognized the pest attempting to radish, you can begin to exterminate pests. There are many specialized products that very effectively cope with their task, but they should be used exclusively according to the instructions, during that period of cultural development, when they cannot harm the crop.

  • «Actellic«- a well-known drug effective from cabbage flies, cabbage moths, scoops. 20 ml of the substance is taken up for 10 liters of warm water, mixed well and used for spraying. This solution is sufficient for 10 squares of planting.
  • «Entobacterin«- a strong, biological drug for cabbage moths, aphids, cabbage moths. Used in dry (for dusting) or liquid (for spraying) form. It is diluted according to the guidelines suggested on the package.
  • «Zolon«used from cabbage whiteflies, midges, scoops, aphids, cruciferous flea. The method of use is indicated on the packaging.
  • «Zemlin«can save the site from cabbage flies, wireworms and other insects that live in the ground. Divorced according to the rules on the packaging and used immediately. You can not prepare this tool for future use!
  • «Provotox«- a strong drug against wireworm, not addictive in insects, therefore it can be used annually. It is diluted according to the instructions indicated on the box.

Important! Spraying or watering insecticides carried out only in dry weather. If it rains after using the insecticide, it is advisable to repeat the procedure, because the water washes away most of the insecticide.

  • «Aktara«- a universal drug against a variety of cruciferous pests. It can remove caterpillars, larvae, butterflies, moths, aphids from the site. However, it should be used carefully because it is also harmful to bees. Therefore, it is always used only according to the instructions and only when there is no flowering plants.
  • «Initiative«removes wireworms, shovels, cruciferous flea, fly larvae, cabbage whitefish. One sachet (30 g) is enough for about 15 square meters of land. This tool is prepared atypically. It is not mixed with water, but mixed with sand. A liter can of Fill with sand, and then pour 30 g of the substance there and mix it. The resulting composition is sprayed over the area.
  • «Basudin«copes with the invasion of bears, larvae of a cabbage fly, weevils, wireworms. To use, you need to fill a liter jar with sand, add 30 g of Basudin and spray it with radish. This amount is usually enough for 20 square meters of planting.

Folk methods of struggle

Popular methods of pest control radish

In the case when radish pests have only appeared on the plant, you can not immediately use strong, specialized means, but get along with folk remedies.

  • Soap with ash. In a bucket of water (10 l) dissolve 50 g of soap and 2 cups of wood ash. The resulting composition is well mixed and used for watering radish. This tool copes with the cruciferous flea.
  • Mustard with pepper. If the radish appeared mole, scoop, cabbage bed, you can scare them with this tool. In 10 liters of water mixes a teaspoon of red powder, hot pepper, 2 tablespoons of salt and the same amount of dry mustard. The resulting mixture watered plants.
  • Tobacco and ash drive caterpillars, larvae, flea beetles. One of these means, or both, simply need to powder the leaves and the ground where the radishes grow. This simple procedure will deter pests.
  • Ash and lime in a 1: 1 mixture can drive away a whole multitude of cruciferous flea. But it is necessary to use this tool only in dry weather, and after the rains repeat.

Preventive actions

Every gardener knows which pests live on his site or have previously lived. In order to prevent their secondary occurrence or damage of radish, it is necessary to carry out preventive measures.

  • Between rows should be clean — no weed plants, fallen leaves, and thicken the crops, too, is not recommended.
  • Preventive spraying of crops allows you to avoid potential problems. But to use for this is not necessarily insecticides. If there are no pests yet, popular recipes will be effective.

Interesting! Insects are especially active during the hot period. And most of all they are attracted by young radishes.

  • It is better to remove any affected plants, rather than wait until the culture has recovered. While the gardener is waiting, the pest is looking for new, tasty treats and switches to them.
  • Rot always attracts pests, so there should be no such smells on the site. The old mulch is changing in time, the foliage is burned, waste is thrown away.
  • Compliance with crop rotation avoids pests. It is impossible to plant radishes after crucifers!
  • You need to water in moderation. The abundance or lack of moisture can attract insects for whom such an environment is comfortable.
  • The acidic environment is pleasant to many pests, therefore it is necessary to control the acidity of the earth and adjust it as needed.

As you can see, everything is not very difficult, the main thing is to comprehensively approach the problem if it has appeared. But, in general, with the observance of preventive measures and timely response to the appearance of pests, the gardener may not worry about the harvest of radish.

Effective remedies for Colorado potato beetle

The problem of combating the Colorado potato beetle has been around for many years. And all this time, people do not stop looking for new ways to effectively destroy it, and also try to improve those that have long been known.Effective remedies for the Colorado potato beetle exist on potatoes and many of them are reliable and have been tested for decades. A reliable remedy for the Colorado potato beetle allows you to completely save the harvest of potatoes and other nightshade crops.

  1. Integrated control measures
  2. How to prevent the invasion of the Colorado potato beetle?
  3. Preparation of the soil
  4. Processing of tubers and seedlings before planting
  5. Ways to get rid of beetles during planting
  6. Processing of tubers when planting
  7. Destruction of the Colorado potato beetle on seedlings
  8. Using inse pesticides
  9. The best insecticides for tops
  10. Natural ways to control the pest

Effective remedies for the Colorado potato beetle on potatoes

When choosing an effective remedy for the Colorado potato beetle in your arsenal, it is necessary to take into account that each remedy has its own nuances. For example, insecticides are used in places remote from apiaries and fish ponds, as they are deadly for bees and fish.Before using any product, you need to carefully study the instructions for use and consult a specialist.

Integrated control measures

  • Before planting potatoes in the spring, it is necessary to process the site from insect infestation.
  • Tubers should be treated before or during planting.
  • It is necessary to pollinate the shoots with insecticides in time.
  • Prevention against insects is carried out regularly on the site before the autumn period.

How to prevent the invasion of the Colorado potato beetle?

If you noticed Colorado potato beetles in your garden, then you need to destroy pests in the early stages of planting from the time the soil was prepared. To do this, you need to use chemicals used both for tubers and for working with soil. An effective means of combating from the Colorado potato beetle to planting will be that in the future it does not harm potato tubers. Many chemicals belong to the 1,2 and 3 hazard class and they can not always be used. Many gardeners in this case use folk remedies and fertilize the holes before planting with manure or wood ash.

Note that a folk and effective remedy for the Colorado potato beetle will dramatically decrease the pest population in the future when the plants begin to germinate, and sometimes completely negate the possibility of the appearance of an insect on plants during the entire time of maturation.

Ground preparation

First you need to determine the place where the potatoes will be planted. Then, before planting, you need to protect the holes so that the beetle could not reach them in the future. This will make it possible to get rid of uninvited guests who will want to move from neighboring plants in spring.

  • The larvae of Colorado pests can not fly long distances, they can only crawl, and young representatives move a couple of tens of meters. Based on this, gardeners came up with to dig small ditches around the site with beds, about 30 cm in depth, which have a sheer wall. These ditches need to be covered with a film. Also around the plantings, you can use folk preparations from the Colorado potato beetle, so that the pungent smell discourages the pest from crawling on the plants.
  • A rather effective tool in the fight against the Colorado potato beetle is to place between rows of fresh sawdust. The smell coming from them is like a repellent for beetles. But from time to time this embankment needs to be updated.
  • Another effective means in the fight against insects is ash, preferably birch. Ash can sprinkle gaps between rows and young shoots. Ash effectively copes with larvae and adult bugs.

It should be noted that the poison from the Colorado potato beetle and various methods of control, if used correctly, will help to keep young bushes in the most critical period for them.

Processing of tubers and seedlings before planting

To process seed crops, it is necessary to use a biological dressing agent, which is specially designed to deal with such a pest. This tool can be used both for soaking and for spraying. Soaked in it tuber or seedlings in the future will be poisonous to the pest. Insects cannot reproduce on this plant.

Today it is the best way to preserve potatoes and rid them of Colorado pests for a while. One drawback of this method is its short toxicity period. The poison acts only until the potato begins to bloom. After the flowering period, there will be no protection and repeated processing must be repeated. However, at this point, young plants are already hardening, and therefore if their leaves are damaged by the pest during this period, then this will hardly have a detrimental effect on the yield.

The following chemicals are used for mordant

Solutions will help get rid of the insects

  • Tirana
  • Taboo
  • Prestige
  • Cruiser
  • Actara

Properly selected drugs and methods against Colorado Beetles are convenient and not difficult to use. Ready tubers are treated with a solution that is pre-kneaded according to the instructions.Further, planting material is planted in the ground. This spraying prevents further destruction of the plant by almost all pests, both external and in the ground. To date, modern drugs have been invented that combine a disinfectant and a sprayer. They were quite successfully tested by land users and were easy to use.

The most common and reliable drugs

  • Matador, a reliable and effective drug.
  • Celest Top, protects your plantings not only from the Colorado pest, but also from other dangerous insects.
  • Connect is an innovative contact-systemic insecticide.
  • Proteus is a combined broad-spectrum insecticide.
  • Regent is sold in ampoules (capsules).
  • Apache is an effect vnoe and inexpensive means, the price of about $ 100.

Biological means to protect potato

Chemical means of biological production, the main components of which are micro-organisms, it is necessary to use a little differently. The tubers will have to be left in the solution for a certain time and only then planted.

  • Bitoxibacillin
  • Aktofit
  • Colorado potato beetle NO
  • Aktarofit
  • Boverin
  • Fitoverm

These preparations can also be sprayed with sprouted plants. Beetles will die, but the soil and environment will not be affected.The crop thus obtained is completely harmless. Processing the wells before planting with biological products is an excellent and effective method of combating pests. Also, the best, natural and effective remedy for protecting and processing your plantings is peeling from onions. It must be put in the hole. You can also insist onion husks for about a day in water and treat the seedlings with the resulting solution, the pest will disappear immediately. They also come with ash, which must be placed in holes or sprinkled with tubers to protect them from insects.

Ways to get rid of beetles during planting

To fight the pest during planting potatoes, you need to combine the two methods of processing tubers and holes. Use chemical insecticides, as well as household preparations. The efforts made in this way will have the beneficial effect of a Colorado pest that can be destroyed. As a result of the actions taken, you can get a quality crop, untouched by the pest. Any drugs against the Colorado pest should have a good shelf life, not less than before 2018-2019, otherwise expired funds may not give the desired effect.

Processing of tubers when planting

To combat such an insect, there are products that do not need to be sprayed or soaked in tubers in advance. With such preparations, it is enough to sprinkle the potatoes that have already been put in the hole and bury.In the ground, the tubers are saturated with the product and will find the necessary protection. When the pest bites off a small piece of the plant, it will receive part of the poison. The same will happen with the larvae. In addition, potatoes will also be protected from pests in the soil, since the same drug will happen to them and destroy everyone around the plant. Preparations from the Colorado potato beetle that can be used in this way are the easiest to use.

Destruction of the Colorado potato beetle on seedlings

You can get rid of the beetle by natural means

The Colorado beetle and its larvae are very dangerous for plants at the very moment when it started bloom. To destroy them on potatoes, natural preparations, insecticides and biological products are suitable. If the volume of planted potatoes is small, or there are bees and fish near the beds, the best option would be to use natural substances and biological agents. Chemical poisons can only be used in cases where the planting area is large or there are a lot of beetles.

Use of insecticides

Also, insecticides are used to control insects on potatoes . Insecticides destroy the pest and its larvae with less processing. Biological agents need to be applied more times to obtain the same effect.However, in general, the use of both tools is similar.

  • The first thing to do is to take care of your safety. To do this, prepare a mask, a hat, rubber boots, gloves, as well as a completely closed robe.
  • The insecticidal solution is mixed in the proportions specified in the instructions. For this, utensils not intended for food are used. Then the solution is poured into the sprayer.
  • Each plant must be sprayed as fully as possible to cover at least three quarters of the shoot. Otherwise, it is impossible to achieve the desired effect.
  • After treatment, you need to thoroughly wash your hands, rinse your mouth, take a bath, and wash clothes. During work, do not take breaks for food or cigarettes.
  • The treated area should not be visited for a couple of days.

The fact that the timing of disposal of the pest should be taken into account depend on the means. They can range from a couple of hours to a couple of days.

No comments

Добавить комментарий

Your e-mail will not be published. All fields are required.