Bronze Age is the first one to develop in the game, and is usually fast paced since every single tech can be unlocked with less than a full stride of Forge Points. Basically, the strategy is different if you have plenty free time or you just can connect a few times a day.
For someone with a lot of time, and after finishing the first quests from tutorial, you should concentrate on building Huts or Stilt Houses to get more population and start getting more coins, Then building four Potteries, to get also a steady supply income. Getting then two Spearfighter barracks are also a perfect way to help your income, not only for resources but also for medals to get some early expansions.
Then, the best move is keep researching going through Cultivation, then Thatched Houses and then Smithery to get Blacksmiths. Then you should be replacing each Pottery with Blacksmiths to increase the supply income and to decrease even further the Population needs. Each time you need happiness by this moment you should just be using Trees, Obelisks or Memorials, since they will provide more than enough happiness by now.
Then with Blacksmiths you should keep producing coins and Supplies while researching Tools, then Teaching, then Brewing, then Manuring. With that you are going to be able to delete those Trees, Obelisks and Memorials and replace them with Taverns, while having two more expansions.
Also you can start battling in the solo campaign to start collecting some extra bonuses. Just remember to beat first Tyr, to start getting Battle Points that would allow you to snatch some medals. Fel Dranghyr, Hymir, Badakus and even some sectors from Paruuch, can be beaten just using Spearfighters, which are just cheap and quick to rebuild in case you lost them.
After having some Taverns, you should go through researching what technologies are needed to build your Boosted Bronze Age Goods, and keep the flow of Coins, Supplies and Goods through your pockets. If you go with 15 minutes productions playing it for around 8 hours and then producing two 8 hours production, you should be able to get around 400 coins for each Stilt House and around 600 Supplies for each Blacksmith daily, which can be a pretty nice amount to spend in the next Age, if you consider that you would need around 4 days to research the other Bronze Age techs.
Also, its highly recommended to upgrade the basic Trails into Paths to get some extra happiness and avoid using too much space in decorations.
For people that can’t connect frequently, the best strategy is to start researching Chalets before going to Cultivation, Thatched Houses and Smithery, since those are going to provide you a much needed Coin income in long periods. Then your Blacksmiths can produce every four hours (or even eight hours if you are going to sleep) to go with Chalet production. From this point, the rest is pretty similar, even if you will need a little bit more Decorations to get your population enthusiastic and also probably you wouldn’t be able to build a whole bunch of Chalets from the beginning since they are pretty much expensive.
Then, you can go doing some repeatable quests while putting your FPs into Iron Age Techs but without researching them until you have all of them full of FPs, to guarantee that those repeatable quests are easier to do for a while and also to help you to get a stack of goods and resources before advancing.
And there you go! You should be on the road for the Iron Age!
As a final advice. doesn’t spend resources or time into building another Bronze Age troops since they are essentially going to be pretty much outclassed in your game in less than a week, which makes them worthless.
If you have a lot of time, Fill your city with Houses (Huts or Stilt Houses, whichever you like), build some potteries (4 or 5 should be good), build two Spearfighter barracks to start fighting and plundering, research Smithery, replace Potteries with Blacksmiths, research Brewing, research Goods Techs, Research the rest of the Bronze Age.
If you don’t have a lot of time, Build some potteries and try to go as soon as possible for Chalets. Build two Spearfighter Barracks to start fighting and plundering, Start Building Chalets while you research Smithery. replace Potteries with Blacksmiths, research Brewing, research Good Techs, Research the rest of the Bronze Age.
Murozond is the final boss in the End Time instance and the lord of the Infinite dragonflight.
Murozond is a future counterpart of Aspect of Time, Nozdormu, leader of the Infinite dragonflight. Using the Hourglass of Time, he managed to interfere with his past counterpart’s efforts to send heroes to the past, which would result in a change of the bleak future, in which the maddened wyrm made his lair.
The master of the Infinite dragonflight tasked Aeonus to oversee the disruption of key moments in the true timeway. 
Now living outside of time, Murozond was once the great Dragon Aspect Nozdormu the Timeless One. After the titans showed him his own death, the tormented Nozdormu was tricked by the Old Gods into trying to subvert his mortality. As a result, Nozdormu shattered the timeways and created the infinite dragonflight. jeopardizing the very future of Azeroth.
Temporal Blast — Murozond deals 25000 Shadow damage to all nearby enemies and increases their Arcane damage taken by 10% for 20 sec.
Distortion Bomb — Murozond launches an orb of temporal energy at the location of a random player. When the orb reaches this location, it explodes and leaves an 8 yard radius area of temportal distortion. The distortion area inflicts 25000 Arcane damage every second to all enemies standing within the area.
Tail Sweep — Knocks enemies in a cone behind the caster and Inflicts 15000 damage on them every 3 seconds over 15 seconds.
Infinite Breath — Inflicts 75000 Fire damage to all enemies in front of the caster.
Nozdormu — Nozdormu is unable to assist the players directly, but grants them the Blessing of the Bronze Dragonflight.
Blessing of the Bronze Dragonflight — Blesses the target with the power of the Bronze Dragonflight. Melee, ranged, and spell casting speed is increased by 40%. Movement speed increased by 40%.
Hourglass of Time
Murozond stole the Hourglass of Time and trapped it here within the End Time of Azeroth. The Hourglass casts Rewind Time when a player interacts with it, but the Hourglass can only be used up to five times during the encounter.
Rewind Time — The Reverse Time effect rewinds everything back to the beginning of the encounter. The reversal restores each players’ health and mana, then resets all of their ability cooldowns. The reversal also removes all Distortion Bombs. All players are teleported to the positions where they were when the fight started. Murozond himself is not affected by the Hourglass, so the damage previously dealt to him will not be undone.
Murozond is a DPS race with a unique hourglass mechanic. The overall strategy is to kill the boss before the hourglass runs out of charges and damage becomes unhealable. Timely use of the hourglass can trivialize this boss greatly.
One key detail for all players to remember is that ability cooldowns are reset each time the hourglass is used and it is highly recommended players use all their cooldowns every time they are up. Abilities like [ Mirror Image ] , [ Avenging Wrath ] and [ Rapid Fire ] are all good examples, but also major defensive cooldowns like [ Shield Wall ] , [ Devotion Aura ] , [ Army of the Dead ] and [ Tranquility ] are reset with each use of the hour glass as well. All debuffs are also wiped from players allowing reuse of [ Bloodlust ] / [ Heroism ] / [ Time Warp ] as well (Note, it does not reset a Core Hound’s [ Ancient Hysteria ] ), it is recommended to wait for the Blessing of the Bronze Dragonflight to fade before use to maximize the longevity of the haste. A final benefit of the hourglass is all dead players are brought back to life with each use.
Murozond needs to be faced away from the group, but positioning can quickly become compromised from Distortion Bombs. Healers need to ensure they can stay in range of tanks as best as possible while keeping DPS alive. Hourglass use should be assigned to the ranged DPS, Mages and Warlocks are a great choice for this because of [ Blink ] and Demonic Circle. Players should stay away from the hourglass until they are about to use it to avoid getting Distortion Bombs placed near it. If done well, Murozond will die on the fourth or final use of the hourglass, depending on your group’s overall DPS.
The player assigned to activate the hourglass should wait until one of the following conditions occurs:
The tank or healer dies
The number of Distortion areas makes it hard for DPS to stay in range of Murozond.
The hourglass activator is at imminent risk of death, with no player available as backup to activate the hourglass
Fallen players should not release when dying before all hourglasses are consumed, since the hourglass will return the player to their living state. Battle resurrections reset their cooldowns as well, but rarely have much utility in this fight.
[ Heroic: End Time ]
[ Heroic: End Time Guild Run ]
1. The powers of the Hourglass do nothing to me! 2. To repeat the same action and expect different results is madness. 3. Another chance will make no difference. You will fail. 4. Again. Is this your plot, your scheme?
Hourglass depleted The Hourglass’ power is exhausted. No more games, mortals. Relent, or perish. Killing a player
The sand has run out.
Your time has come.
Defeated Murozond yells: You know not what you have done. Aman’Thul. What I. have. seen. Nozdormu says: At last it has come to pass. The moment of my demise. The loop is closed. My future self will cause no more harm. Nozdormu says: Still, in time, I will. fall to madness. And you, heroes. will vanquish me. The cycle will repeat. So it goes. Nozdormu says: What matters is that Azeroth did not fall; that we survived to fight another day. Nozdormu turns away from where Murozond died and looks up at the Hourglass of Time. Nozdormu says: All that matters. is this moment.
Murozond was available as an Arena-exclusive legendary card during the limited-time Taverns of Time event in Hearthstone.
The Lord of the Infinite reappears in the Descent of Dragons expansion as the legendary priest card Murozond the Infinite, whose Battlecry effect replays all of the cards the player’s opponent played the previous turn. His flavor text reads: «Well, I’m glad YOU knew what I should be doing this turn.»
How to tidy your herb bed, tips for tulips in pots, by gardening expert Helen Yemm
Sound advice for herb care, gardening gloves that do the job, and encouragement for tulips in pots
Every week, Telegraph gardening expert Helen Yemm gives tips and advice on all your gardening problems whether at home or on the allotment. If you have a question, see below for how to contact her.
Inspiration for this piece comes from emailer Jennifer Mather, who was set on completely gutting her herb garden and starting afresh, but now finds that herbs are too important to her in the kitchen at the moment.
Mather’s patch sounds pretty typical: a Moroccan mint is going for world domination, she says, along with a mature bronze fennel about to power upwards that has previously seeded around; she also has a tarragon that every year in late summer gets far too blowsy. There is purple sage, now a lanky mess, and a clump of thyme that has become wiry and wizened. Can she cut everything back hard – and, most importantly, will everything “come back” if she does?
I thought this was a good time to analyse the general maintenance of some hardy herb stalwarts and also reinforce the point that coloured-leaved herbs are instantly more “ornamental”, sometimes more compact, while having virtually the same flavour as green-leaved varieties.
What makes these (sage and thyme, for example) extremely manageable, is the fact that all we want from them is leaves and more leaves, rather than flowers. So, any old, tatty foliage from the previous season can be cut right back in late spring, which will encourage the production of lots of sappy new shoots and foliage that can be snipped as needed or picked to hang up to dry. Constant little haircuts will keep these herbs compact, but they are, of course, likely to bear few flowers.
This is, of course, rather special treatment. Spring pruning is something you should never do to other shrubby aromatics from warmer climes that are prized for their high-summer flower-power (think of lavenders, cistuses, santolinas).
Fennel and tarragon can also be kept to a manageable size by constant cutting throughout the summer, as can chives and marjoram or oregano. In fact, the less they flower, the finer their pungent foliage. The young shoots of tarragon freeze well or can be shoved in a bottle of wine vinegar to flavour it. A single seedling of fennel can be earmarked as a replacement for an old plant; they do tend to become too coarse and bulky.
Mint, however, belongs in a sprinters’ league all of its own, and really has no place in a herb bed unless strictly confined (in a bottomless metal bucket sunk in the ground for example). Absolutely the safest way to grow mint is to keep it out of the ground altogether: plant it in a wide container so that its roots can run circuits for a year or two before being “pruned” and repotted.
Biennials such as parsley and celery leaf that were good last year will make fewer leaves and want to go to seed and slowly die this year. Any stray seedlings that survived the winter from previous plantings may bulk up during the summer.
Supermarket parsley pots contain massed young seedlings, some of which can be transplanted and may thrive. Usefully, unlike most herbs, both parsley and celery leaf enjoy some shade and moisture.
Gloves I can recommend
These practical gardening gloves get nought out of 10 for “sartorial elegance” (which too often involves stiff, impractically pale fabrics, emblazoned with “fun” decorations).
However, these really businesslike gloves are machine washable and quick drying, stretchy backed, with protective latex (Red Back) or nitrile (Second Skin) palms and fingers.
You will find a huge range of gloves in addition to those described, from leather pruning gauntlets to ingenious protective Kevlar “sleeves” as seen on the special beekeepers’ gloves.
How to care for tulips in pots
Would you be kind enough to give me some advice please on the above, in order that they are not a one-year wonder. Our daffodils seem to flower every year without any problem.
Tony Wright – via email
The best way to encourage tulips to become more reliably perennial is to promptly remove their developing seed heads as petals drop, and cosset them when their leaves die down; this is when they make the following year’s flower buds within their bulbs.
If grown in the ground, whether you lift them or not subsequently depends largely on your soil, your style and your circumstances. When they are grown in pots, similar treatment applies. It is tempting to shove the pots out of sight and out of mind as the dying foliage becomes increasingly ugly, but they should be kept in a fully sunny position, watered once a week and, if possible, given a liquid feed of seaweed fertiliser (such as Maxicrop) at least once before the leaves turn yellowish.
Only when the leaves of the tulips come away easily in your hand (in all about eight weeks after the flowers finish) should the bulbs be tipped out of their pots and any obviously dodgy-looking ones binned. Only the real plumpsters will flower the following year. These should be allowed to dry off before being stored in paper bags in a cool, dry place until October or November, at which point they can be replanted in their pots using brand new, loam-based compost (John Innes No. 2).
Roses with blackspot
I have a ‘Graham Thomas’ rose in a pot which last year developed black spot badly. Now we are into the new season I hope to keep on top of this problem by catching affected leaves early. The pot stands next to a sunny wall but with plenty of air. Is there any extra advice you can give me to prevent a recurrence? Or am I baying for the moon?
Anne Young – via email
“Curing” rose diseases is well-nigh impossible. All you can really do is help roses to fight them off, which is hard work: Pick up any leaves that drop, as you are doing with yours, so that spores don’t hang around. Prune it annually quite hard, cutting out the worst affected shoots (those with purple-ish streaks on them), and make sure its general living conditions are the very best they can be.
On that subject, I have no doubt that the reason your rose succumbed to disease has a lot to do with it being in a container, where it will inevitably be subjected to large variations in temperature, moisture levels and so on, which will have weakened it.