Methods of combating raspberry fly

One of the pests attacking raspberries is called a raspberry beetle (Byturus tomentosus). Attacks rind salmon of the European part, the Caucasus, Western Siberia. Makes berries unusable for sale, for consumption.

Raspberry pest

Raspberry beetle: pest photo

It is a beetle with a length of a slightly oblong oval body 4-4.3 mm. It is entirely covered with hairs of gray and yellow color. Order Coleoptera (family of raspberries). The eggs lay in a flower or a young juicy ovary. Characteristic elytra of gray with a black shade of color. Description in the immature phase of the larva: it looks like a caterpillar up to 7 mm long. On the back there are setae.

Harm brings, as imago, and larvae. The pest develops in one generation. Raspberry bug on raspberries appears in spring at a soil temperature of +12 degrees. He climbs out of it, moves to the bush, where the leaves that have not yet blossomed and the blossoming flowers of weeds regale. Capable of flying, beetles migrate from bush to bush. Spoil the bones, cloudberries, blackberries, bird cherry, apple tree, pear.

Female beetles lay in the flower on the egg, having the opportunity to postpone up to 40 pieces during the growing season. After 7-10 days, larvae appear with characteristic spines raised upward. Caterpillars damage the inflorescences, making passages in their flesh and damaging the peduncle. Detecting in fruits is quite difficult. As a result, deformed, underdeveloped fruits are formed. Over time, wither, crumble. The larvae also feed on ripe fruits. This lasts 40-45 days, after which some of them fall to the ground, fall into a passive cycle of life, to pupate only a year later, in August. Others winter in roots, in wet loose soil, at a depth of 0.15-0.20 m. From these caterpillars, young adults are formed in the early August of this year.

Damages fruit larvae

How to fight?

In order to limit the spread of the pest to the plantation, it is recommended to carry out preventive measures:

  • Feeding of plants with organic fertilizers, ashes.
  • Organized watering.
  • Thinning of raspberry plants, ensuring sufficient air circulation.
  • Practiced for the prevention of early spring treatment with a Bordeaux mixture (2%).
  • In the last days of autumn, after the destruction of the remaining weeds, the soil in the basal zone is dug, at the same time, beetles, larvae and assembled winter pupae are destroyed. Before loosening the ground, it sprinkles with tobacco dust.
  • Mulching with a sponsor “SUF-x-60. Antiweed “or flax.
  • You can make a weak acidification of the soil. For this, a layer (3-5 cm) of coniferous sawdust under the bush is treated with a humate.
  • Early in the spring, until the beetle flew, a shallow digging of the soil, without damaging the root and shoveling the mink bugs.
  • Because beetle after the departure feeds on flowering crops, do not plant raspberry cuttings under pears and apple trees.
  • When found on the blossoming bushes of insects that have occupied them, pests need to be shaken on a sheet of paper, a newspaper. Then burn or put in a water-kerosene emulsion. The collection of beetles takes place in the morning, while they are not active.
  • At the end of the summer, when pupation begins, to process the soil top layer under the bush.
  • Conduct a constant inspection of bushes and manual collection of damaged, wilted, dried berries. They need to be burned.
  • When harvesting the ripe berry is packed in closed containers, boxes. The larvae that complete and remain in the enclosed space are collected and destroyed.

Stages of insect development

Insecticide Attacks

Chemical methods of fighting are repeated twice. Otherwise, effective protection of plants should not be counted. Popular drugs:

  • If the population of beetles is large, at the beginning of the emergence of only formed buds raspberry sprinkle with Carbophos (90 g per bucket of water).
  • 2.5 ml of Kinmix solution diluted in 10 l of water. Spraying with a consumption of 1.5 liters per 10 shrubs.
  • In case of severe damage, methods of combating such preparations can be used: a solution of Fufanon (0.1%) in the bud formation phase, Iskra (1 tablet dissolved in 10 liters of water) before and after flowering. Fufanon is a stable drug. Its damaging effect persists for 21-25 days from the day of treatment.

Inta-Vir proves the effectiveness of

Supplement the list of chemicals can be Fosbetsidom, Inta-Vir, Confidor, Aktellikom. Preparation of chemicals should be carried out according to the attached instructions. Use of insecticides is economically advantageous, if 3-4 caterpillars or a beetle were found on one bush during examination of raspberry.

“Medicine” from the people

People’s methods of struggle are based on the results of long-term observations. So, the damaged fruit of a raspberry experienced gardeners are not recommended to throw out immediately. First they are poured slightly salted water. After 0.5 hours, the pest crawls out. The berry is to be processed, the larvae to the birds.

  • After melting snow, raspberry bushes are sprinkled with a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate (0.5 grams of substance per 10 liters of water).
  • It is practiced among the people and processing from the raspberry bug the watery infusion of dried tansy grass (350 g per 10 l). The drug is infused for 24 hours, boiled for 0.5 hours, filtered and brought before irrigation with water to the volume of the bucket.
  • In autumn and spring, before digging up the soil, it is poured with a decoction of tobacco or makhorka. 200-300 g of dry raw material is poured in water (7-10 L). It is insisted 24 hours. It boils for 0.5 hours. It is cooled and brought to 10 liters.
  • Another tobacco concentrate. It is prepared from 1 cup of tobacco, filled with 10 glasses of water. Boil over low heat for 120 minutes. The ready concentrated solution is diluted with water before use: 1 glass per 3 cups water.
  • The struggle with the raspberry beetle with the help of tobacco is also carried out in a different way. When only buds appear, 7 days before flowering, the treatment is performed as follows. 400 g of tobacco dust or waste is insisted in 10 liters of water a day. To boil (1 hour). Cool and drain. In each liter of broth, 1000 ml of water is poured in and adds 0.4 kg of laundry soap to a large grater.
  • Instead of tobacco, a dry mustard powder is used. 100 g is poured with steep boiling water to the consistency of sour cream. Well rubbed. Composition add 10 liters of water and sprinkle the bush.
  • Before the appearance of the ovary on the bushes every week, at least 1 time, treat them with a solution of drinking soda: 1 tablespoon per bucket of water.
  • Actively used biopreparation from raspberry beetle Guapsis. The percentage of pest damage reaches 94%. The insecto-fungicide contains the bacteria Rceudomonasaureeofaciens at-306. They not only parasitize on the larvae of the beetle, destroying them, but also decompose hardly soluble soil fractions, activating plant nutrition. Bithoxybacillin (2%) has such properties. They are sprayed with raspberries before the appearance of buds and on the eve of flowering.

Many drugs, like preventive measures, play a complex role, hitting other pests.

en.bestinsectkiller.com

Controlling Raspberry Fruitworms: Preventing Fruitworm Damage On Raspberries

Raspberry patches give home gardeners easy access to the tasty fruit these canes produce, making berry-picking a fun experience for the whole family. Like other berries though, raspberry fruits are frequently invaded by worms that can ruin a harvest. These raspberry worms are the larvae of a tiny beetle, known as the raspberry beetle (Byturus unicolor).

The raspberry fruitworm beetle reaches up to about 1/5 inch long; its reddish brown body is covered in tiny, short hairs. Adults feed voraciously on leaves of raspberry canes, favoring the newest canes and leaves, but may spread further when populations are high. Mating takes place on or near raspberry flowers, where eggs are deposited.

Fruitworm Damage on Raspberries

Adult raspberry fruitworm beetles appear from mid-April to mid-May, eating the surface tissues from raspberry leaves or skeletonizing them entirely. They may feed on opening flower buds when they appear, if numbers are large β€” even whole bud clusters are sometimes consumed. However, the damage from the adult beetle is usually insignificant to the plant as a whole.

Raspberry worms, on the other hand, can cause serious economic damage. When these tiny worms hatch, they find themselves inside or up against individual fruit caps. The larvae burrow into the raspberry receptacles, sometimes causing fruits to dry up or drop prematurely. Infestation ultimately results in the downgrading of commercial harvests when raspberry worms are found among the fruit.

Controlling Raspberry Fruitworms

If you pay close attention to your raspberries throughout the spring, you may be able to catch the tiny raspberry fruitworm beetles shortly after emergence, but before they’ve begun to lay eggs. Handpicking is possible, even though these pests are small, if you are determined. Dropping them into a bucket of soapy water will kill them quickly.

Killing raspberry fruitworms naturally is a goal of most gardeners, who prefer not to add pesticides to home-grown fruits. Spinosad is a microbial pesticide allowed in organic gardens and considered totally harmless to humans, but you must restrict the use of this chemical to evenings since it is dangerous to bees while wet. Spray raspberry canes with active beetle populations as soon as they are noticed, or wait until flower buds swell to target raspberry worms specifically. A second application after bloom may be required to kill all the worms.

After harvest, raking or shallowly cultivating the soil around your raspberry canes can break up pupating larvae in the soil. If you keep chickens, this is a great time to let them in the garden to help destroy the tasty beetles.

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Pests and diseases raspberries

Apiary Β» Garden Β» raspberry Β» Pests and diseases raspberries

Pests and diseases raspberries: description, methods of control.

raspberry – berries unpretentious, but demands the small, but constant attention, as well as the regular variety of diseases prevention, many of which can be caused by various parasites – pest raspberries.

Every gardener needs to know, What are raspberry plant diseases, and determine their symptoms, and know the description of symptoms, and types of pests, to know how to deal with them.

Diseases of raspberries and their control

anthracnose raspberries – description disease, treatment

Anthracnose raspberries photo

One of the most common diseases of raspberry bushes, you can almost certainly be determined by utvoryvshyhsya spots on the leaves raspberries.

Affected tissue raspberry leaf dries quickly and even fall.

The stems of raspberries are also suffering from the disease – they are covered with large white spots, which eventually merge into one large ulcer, raspberry stems bark begins to exfoliate areas.

Similarly affected and shoots, kidney and hand raspberries.

Raspberry rust disease – how to deal?

Rust raspberry Photo

Also very common fungal disease, which is manifested in the spring, as orange spots.

By the summer of the same bulging spots appear on the inside of the leaf, which result in darker, or even blackened.

If severe infection, the plant begins to lose its leaves, slowing its growth.

Description Septoria raspberries – control measures

Septoria raspberry Photo

White spot – fungal disease, in which the leaves raspberries there are numerous spots rounded, initially pale brown, over time were white in the center, red or brown rim.

Raspberry leaf diseased tissue is destroyed as well, and soon falls.

On the stems appear as small dots, which are located in the middle and bottom of the shoots in the kidneys.

When stained torn fabric, forming cracks visible to the eye, and peeling bark of stems of raspberries.

During ripening raspberries this disease reaches its climax.

Bacterial cancer stem raspberries – description disease

Bacterial cancer stem raspberry Photo

The disease stems of raspberries can manifest as tumor length, pectineal form, annual shoots on fruiting raspberries.

Above the tumor tissue is torn and damaged plants.

Bad tumors grow quickly escape across a distance 10-20 centimeters.

There are soft tumors, white, later they harden, become brown and collapse.

This bacterial disease affects primarily the lower part of the stem and the middle raspberries.

Root bacterial cancer raspberries – description, treatment

Root bacterial cancer raspberry Photo

With this type of bacterial disease affects raspberry, primarily, the plant roots, shoots grounds, and the very roots of raspberry.

For patients with rapidly growing parts of the plant tumor, that increases in size, starting with the nuts and 4-5 centimeters, and more.

There is a considerable number of different diseases raspberries, so every gardener should learn the basic symptoms of diseases and constantly care for their Malinniki.

Purple raspberry leaf spot – description

Purple leaf spot raspberry Photo

DΓ―dimella – purple-brown or reddish-purple spots vague shapes formed on the young shoots of annuals near the insertion raspberry leaves in late summer.

Then they darken and grow, and the crown starts to peel and crack.

In severe cases the shoots and buds may die.

It is recommended to cut the stem with scissors or garden sikatorom, and after, as the increase will be collected, Malinniki odnovidsotkovoyu spray Bordeaux mixture.

In prophylactic occurrence didimelly, chemical processing to be done shoots.

In the spring before flowering raspberry shoots solution treat topaz, rubihana or benomilu.

Disease raspberry chlorosis – treatment

Chlorosis raspberry Photo

Viral diseases raspberry fruit shrubs.

When infecting chlorosis, the leaves turn yellow and deform. Shoots, that fruit, slowing its growth, leaves them are small and berries unfit for consumption.

Vertitsyllezne fading – Description disease raspberries

Vertitsyllezne fading raspberry Photo

Fungal bush. Infection comes from soil, which applies to the rhizome, measles and vessels.

Raspberry leaves turn yellow and wither, top fade, shoots begin to grow slowly and stems die.

In this disease must be removed with raspberry root system.

Pest spring and autumn raspberries

Weevil on raspberries – description pest

Raspberry-strawberry weevil – small beetle is most striking early varieties of raspberries.

It feeds on young plants, vyyidayuchy holes in the leaf lamina.

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Spider mites Photos

Pest cobwebs covering the lower part of leaves and extracts all the juice out of it, causing the leaves turn yellow and crumble.

Pest raspberries – fly steblevΡ–, how to deal?

SteblevΡ– flies photo

Raids these pests usually begin in May. Flies lay eggs more often on the tops of young shoots of raspberries.

Over the next week, emerging larvae. Soon flies gnaw shoots from top to its foundation.

Raspberry suffers, the tip of the plants quickly turns black, rot and eventually dies.

Methods of combating flies to stem raspberries: should regularly conduct prevention, which is everyday closer inspection shoots of young plants.

If you find a crimson stem fly, you need to cut the wound site, just below the localization of plant pests.

Cut off tops of infected flies should be immediately sent to the center.

To destroy pests chemically crimson, raspberry bushes must be sprayed with a solution (15 ml of 10 l water) drug “aktellik”, and such spraying may only flowering raspberry.

Beetle on raspberries – looks like, how to handle?

Beetle on raspberries Photo

Another common type of pest raspberries. Raspberry beetle females lay their eggs in the ovaries of the founding of flowering plants, a raspberry you can easily identify the raspberry beetle larvae born.

To protect the buds of raspberry raspberry beetle females should be in flowering plants covering Malinniki nylon network.

In case of raspberry beetle larvae during harvest, just collect them and destroy pests.

Moth pest on raspberries – description

Another common pest of raspberries is crimson renal miles.

Appears it is usually in early spring. If you notice, after a rather intensive growth of shoots of raspberries they suddenly ceased to grow – your raspberries raspberry damaged moth.

Break one of those affected shoots, you’ll find inside the caterpillar.

Diseases and pests of raspberries: V >

So, To avoid hitting your plants, rather periodic pest of raspberries, which consists of a thorough examination of the stems and shoots of plants, and identifying the first symptoms of raspberries, be prevented.

bee.net.ua

How to Control Japanese Beetles

When I started working at Gardener’s Supply in the 1990s, my Vermont backyard was pretty greenβ€”with grass. Today, there’s just a tiny bit of the original lawn left. Most of the available space has given way to trees, shrubs, perennials, annuals and stonework. Watch a slideshow of my garden in Burlington, VT.

In addition to my work at Gardener’s Supply, I work in the gardening division at Church Hill Landscapes. In that role, I maintain dozens of gardens and learn a lot in the process. I believe that all gardening is good gardening.

Japanese beetle damage is pretty easy to identify. Usually, the bugs can be caught in the act. The telltale signs of Japanese beetles include skeletonized leaves or total defoliation. Japanese beetles also love to eat rosebuds β€” from the inside out. Keep in mind that Japanese beetles are seldom found west of the Mississippi River, but chances are good that they’re headed your way.

The beetles are strangely beautiful: roughly 3/8″ long and 1/4″ wide. They have shiny, metallic-green bodies and copper-colored wing covers.

Four Ways to Control
Japanese Beetles

Play Defense

A multi-part attack is best. Start by spraying the affected plants with Japanese Beetle Killer (pyrethrin) or neem at the first sign of attack.

Pyrethrin-based insecticide is a safe and effective way to control these pests on vegetables, grapes, raspberries, flowers, roses, trees and shrubs. In addition to controlling Japanese beetles, it also controls cucumber beetles, flea beetles, cabbageworms, Colorado potato beetles, and more.

Neem oil comes from a tree; when sprayed on plants, it reduces feeding. Scientists call it an antifeedant. Important: neem works best when applications begin at first sign of attack.

Japanese beetles are slow. You can easily pick them off plants with your hands and toss them into a bucket of soapy water. Do it in the morning when the beetles are less alert.

Although the following solutions won’t provide immediate gratification, you will be better off next year. Beneficial nematodes kill the grubs that turn into Japanese beetles. Ideally, apply them in spring before the beetles emerge. The second half of this 1-2 prevention punch is Milky Spore, which also kills grubs. It takes a year or so to get established in your soil, but it keeps working for 10 years or more.

A Japanese beetle trap is recommended only if you have a large yard, and can place the trap away from your garden. If you have a small yard, you’ll just be telling the beetles, “The party’s at my house!” If you use a trap, put it out for a day or two at a time every couple of weeks.

Related Information

Why Neem Oil?

Not only does it control Japanese beetles in the heat of their feeding frenzy, it also controls: adelgids, wooly adelgids, sawflies, aphids, sawfly larvae, cabbage loopers, lacebugs, scale, cabbageworm, leafhoppers, chinch bugs, mealybugs, spider mites, crickets, earwigs, flea beetles, mole crickets, squash bugs, pear slugs, tent caterpillars, grasshoppers, pear psyllas, thrips, green stink bugs, whiteflies, psyllids, gypsy moth caterpillars, rose slugs, harlequin bugs, rust mites and other soft-bodied insects.

Neem can also be used on roses in a formulation called Rose Rx, which prevents diseases that plague roses: blackspot, powdery mildew, rust, scab, anthracnose and more.

Even if you use Milky Spore and beneficial nematodes, you can still get Japanese beetles. Yes, they’re slow, but they can fly up to a mile for a good meal. Neem or pyrethrin-based sprays can control these outbreaks.

Vulnerable Plants

If you have these plants, monitor them closely:

  • Linden
  • Crabapple
  • Apple
  • Japanese maple
  • Norway maple
  • Rose
  • Crape myrtle
  • Pin oak
  • Birch
  • Cherry (plum, apricot, peach)

Neem Oil Concentrate works on a wide variety of pests including Japanese beetles, aphids, mites, whiteflies, flea beetles and earwigs.

www.gardeners.com

Entomology – Insect Biology and Management

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Preventing and Managing Spotted Wing Drosophila Infestation

Our recent mild winter raised concerns about the potential for early season spotted wing drosophila (SWD) damage to berries, which were further increased when South Carolina strawberry growers observed infestation last month.

We have now observed infestation in strawberries, blueberries, and blackberries collected from our research locations in North Carolina. Infestation rates are low (less than 1% in most cases), but these observations underscore the importance of proactive prevention of SWD infestation .

Preventing infestation

Growers of SWD hosts (blueberries, blackberries, raspberries, strawberries, and cherries) should begin preventative treatment when fruit becomes susceptible, when it starts to change color. Specific treatment recommendations can be found in the Southern Region Small Fruit Consortium Integrated Pest Management (IPM) Guides. This post from a few years ago has more information about timing SWD management.

Dealing with infestation if it occurs

Despite best efforts, SWD infestation may still occur. There is still zero tolerance for SWD infestation in fresh marketed fruit, which means that infested fruit is unmarketable. Here’s a quick summary of some key steps you should take in the event of SWD infestation:

1. Sample fruit regularly to detect infestation if it occurs. Sample fruit each harvest by either cutting them open and looking for larvae or soaking them in salt water (1/4 cup salt per gallon). The video below illustrates a salt test.

2. If you detect infestation, remove as much ripe and ripening fruit as possible and destroy it (by freezing, β€œbaking” in the sun inside a clear plastic bag for a few days, or removing from the site). Eggs or larvae may be present in otherwise sound appearing fruit. Leaving this fruit means that potentially infested fruit is present and could be harvested.

3. Practice excellent sanitation. Thoroughly harvest all all ripe fruit and sell or destroy it (if it’s unmarketable). Do not discard culls in the field, and clean up after rain and u-pickers. Unpicked fruit is a reservoir for SWD larvae.

4. Store fruit cold post harvest for as long as possible. Most eggs and larvae do not develop further at temperatures below 40F, and some may die. If fruit are kept cold, any eggs that may been laid will not hatch, and some may die.

5. Begin or resume an aggressive (once per week if it does not rain, reapplication in the event of rain) spray program. Rotating between at least two modes of action will reduce the likelihood of resistance development.

More information

Written By

Dr. Hannah Burrack Professor and Extension Specialist (Berry, Tobacco and Specialty Crops) (919) 513-4344 [email protected] Entomology & Plant Pathology
NC State Extension, NC State University

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