Fighting the sawfly on gooseberry

Slug-like sawfly larvae feed on leaves and skeletonize them, leaving only a framework of veins. Here’s how to get rid of them using proven, organic methods.

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Sawflies (Caliroa cerasi), also known as cherry or pear slugs, are widely distributed throughout the United States and Canada. They are a common pest of mountain ash, hawthorn, cotoneaster, cherry, plum and pear trees, and are occasionally found on quince and shadbush. High populations can defoliate entire trees.

Identification

Young larvae (1/2 inch long) are greenish-black, elongated, slim and slug-like, with very little evidence of legs. As the slugs grow, they become lighter colored. When fully mature, pear sawfly larvae resemble green-orange caterpillars. The adult (1/5 inch long) is a black and yellow, 4-winged non-stinging wasp (sawfly) that is rarely noticed.

Life Cycle

The winter is passed in the soil inside a cocoon. In the late spring, shortly after trees have come into full leaf, the adults emerge and deposit their eggs in the leaves. These hatch a week or more later, depending on temperature. Larval development is completed in less than a month and pupation takes place in the soil. Adults emerge during late July and August and lay eggs for the second generation of slugs. This generation usually causes the greatest amount of injury, especially on young trees which they may completely defoliate. When this second generation of larvae becomes fully grown, they go into the ground and remain as larvae until the following spring, when they pupate. There is usually only one generation per year, but there may be a partial second.

Sawfly Control

  1. Cultivate around trees and shrubs in the early spring and again in the fall to help reduce the overwintering population.
  2. Wash slugs off leaves with a strong jet of water from the Bug Blaster; larvae may also be sprayed with Safer® Soap.
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Warfare in walled garden as gardeners fight pests

URBAN GARDENER: RAIN, rain, rain, rain. and then more rain

URBAN GARDENER:RAIN, rain, rain, rain . . . and then more rain. Planting of the new herb patch at the OPW’s walled vegetable garden in the Phoenix Park has been wisely postponed because of the regular, ground-drenching downpours of the previous few weeks.

“We had to put it off,” says OPW gardener Brian Quinn with a heavy sigh. “The soil was too wet and the young plants would have hated it.”

And so the sun-loving, Mediterranean herbs – like sage, rosemary, basil and thyme – will wait it out in the glasshouses for another week or so. Meantime, OPW gardeners Brian Quinn, Meeda Downey and Declan Donohoe have another challenge on their hands, and it’s not meteorological.

“Sawflies on the gooseberries,” says Brian with a grimace. “Actually, not the sawfly itself but its larvae, which can strip all the leaves off a gooseberry bush in a matter of days. We spotted the green and black caterpillars on the plants earlier this week, and so it was all hands on board.”

It’s at times like this that the resolve of most organic gardeners is sorely tested, and the temptation to turn to chemical warfare becomes almost too much. “It took five gardeners over a day to hand-pick the larvae off all 50 gooseberry bushes,” says Meeda exasperatedly. And then what did they do with them? “We sliced them in half with secateurs,” smiles Brian. In anticipation of further similar infestations, the OPW gardeners have being doing some careful research and have discovered an alternative, and less time-consuming (but still organic) solution. Boiled rhubarb leaves . . .

While cooked rhubarb stems are delicious and entirely edible, the large leaves of this perennial plant are quite poisonous because they contain large amounts of oxalic acid. This naturally occurring chemical has many uses and is an active ingredient in some rust-proofers, wood restorers and household cleansers.

In horticulture, it can also serve as a highly effective insecticide, as first promoted by the pioneering organic gardener, Lawrence Hills (founder of the Henry Doubleday Research Association).

He discovered that a spray, made from the liquid of strained, boiled rhubarb leaves mixed with soapflakes, killed aphids and some other garden pests such as the gooseberry sawfly, but isn’t poisonous to animals, birds, bees and humans.

It also breaks down naturally in the soil, or in strong sunlight. It seems to be the organic answer to the OPW gardeners’ prayers. “We just don’t have the manpower or the time to spend days collecting sawfly larvae,” explains Brian. “So boiled rhubarb leaves it is.”

He and Meeda collect several pounds of rhubarb leaves in preparation – but then disaster strikes. Brian discovers that, for some as-yet-unclear reason, EU regulations appear to prohibit the use of rhubarb spray, despite its long-standing and proven record in organic gardening (it’s still widely used outside the EU). More research is required to discover why, and whether this is still definitely the case. But, for the moment, it’s back to hand-picking the little blighters.

CARROT FLY

Quiet warfare is now taking place in the Phoenix Park’s walled vegetable garden. As if having to slice up hundreds of sawfly larvae weren’t bad enough, the OPW gardeners now have to build elaborate defences against the carrot fly, a common pest that most vegetable gardeners struggle with.

The female carrot fly takes to the air round about now, leaving its previous host plant, cow parsley, to search for young carrot seedlings/plants on which to lay its eggs. As the maggots hatch, they burrow below ground and into the carrot itself, damaging the vegetable or, in very bad cases, rendering it completely inedible.

“Last year, we grew the window sill carrot, Parmex, which has stumpy, almost round roots. It was really badly affected – half of the crop was destroyed. Just mushy and full of holes,” remembers Meeda with a shudder. Prevention, it seems, is by far the best form of defence. The female carrot fly isn’t the most athletic of garden pests and can’t fly above a certain height, so this year, by erecting a low barrier (about 60cm high) around the young carrot seedlings, the OPW gardeners should be able to prevent the fly from reaching her target. They’re doing this with a double layer of garden fleece, sandwiched tautly into place between short lengths of timber driven into the ground. You could also use clear polythene or a white geotextile membrane (both of these are also stronger and less likely to rip than the fleece), but don’t use dark plastic, which will block off light from young plants. Raised beds and containers also offer some protection.

Brian and Meeda are also experimenting with different varieties of carrot, including Red Samurai, Early Nantes and Flyfree – the last of these is less attractive to the carrot fly because it naturally contains lower levels of chlorogenic acid, the chemical that the young larvae need to survive.

As the female fly is attracted by the smell of carrots, another useful tip is to plant strong-smelling onions nearby.

Finally, thin seedlings only in the evening and remove the thinnings quickly and as far away as possible (not in the compost heap), so the fly doesn’t catch the alluring scent of freshly crushed foliage. “Although we sowed at the beginning of April, we won’t thin the seedlings until late June,” explains Brian. “That way, we hope to avoid the worst, but only time will tell.”

LEEKS

Unlike carrots, leeks are a relatively easy, undemanding crop to grow, so the more tender-hearted urban farmers needn’t trouble their consciences about how best to battle pests or diseases. At the Phoenix Park, the gardeners are growing a reliable, mid-season variety called Musselburgh, a long-time favourite amongst grow-your-own (GYO) enthusiasts that’s been in cultivation since the early 1800s.

Brian and Meeda grew theirs from seed sown into modules in the glasshouse, back in late February, but you can also buy young plants in garden centres. Alternatively, if you really hurry, it’s not too late to sow seeds of later varieties such as Porbella and Pandora. (Technically, these should have been sown by the end of April, but you should get away with it – plant indoors or under cover, and into seed trays or modules for best results).

At the Phoenix Park, Meeda planted out the young leeks a few day ago, using the handle of a hoe to make individual planting holes, 15cm deep and spacing them at 15cm intervals along the row.

Ideally, leave about 30cm between each row. Young plants are ready to go outdoors when they’re about 20cm long and the thickness of a pencil. Some gardeners very gently trim the roots and leaves before planting, but this isn’t actually necessary.

After dropping the plants into their individual planting holes, Meeda watered liberally but didn’t (this is important) backfill with soil. Intuitively, this feels all wrong, and you’ll have to fight the strong impulse to push some soil around the roots, but this kind of deep planting without soil is the best way of blanching the leeks. Over the next few weeks, she’ll be keeping a close eye on the plants and watering them in dry weather until the roots become established.

Soil will slowly begin to naturally fall in and around the planting hole, but this is okay. For even longer blanched stems, very gradually draw dry soil around the roots of well-established plants. Try your best not to let it fall between the leaves, which gives that distinctively horrible gritty taste to some cooked but poorly washed leeks.

Alternatively, the RHS suggests slipping a short length of drainpipe over established plants. Leeks (and carrots) can also be grown in containers as long as they’re sufficiently large and at least 60cm deep – just remember to keep them well watered.

– Next week (fingers crossed), Urban Farmerin Propertywill cover preparing and planting a herb bed.

Fionnuala Fallon is a garden designer and writer

www.irishtimes.com

Perhaps, you can not call such a garden or garden culture, which is not “interested” in this or that pest. Gooseberries are not an exception in this sense. The gooseberry sawfly (in the caterpillar stage) is considered one of the most dangerous gluttonous insects parasitizing and eating black and red currants at the same time. Suffer from him shrubs in Eastern and Western Europe, Siberia and Transcaucasia.

The sawfly is in all its glory

A sawfly on a gooseberry – a photo of an adult

An adult with a length of up to 8 mm has a different color. Yellow gooseberry sawfly – in the palette of colors red and yellow colors prevail. The pale-legged type of flying insect is recognized by its basic black color and pale spots. The females are slightly larger and brighter than males. Malicious caterpillars are dirty blue or green. Each has 10 pairs of legs.

The sawfly is hibernating in the stage of a caterpillar, hidden in a cocoon, in the upper layer of soil in the root zone of a bush at a depth of 10-15 cm. With the onset of spring, larvae are born. When the gooseberries blossom, the adults fly out. They sit on the young green leaves. Attached from the lower side of their eggs along the veins. Defeat the plant focal point. With the advent of caterpillars and the beginning of their active feeding on the leaves, holes are formed. Then the sheets are eaten whole. If the larvae of the first generation are not very similar to themselves, they may go unnoticed, then the second generation of the pest is more numerous. For a week can eat all the green crown on the bushes.

In this case, the bush becomes weaker. In it, photosynthetic processes are suspended. As a result, the fruits turn out to be underdeveloped, small. On the bush they do not hold, turning into a fallow. Gooseberries do not give young shoots. His defenses are weakened. In frost it freezes.

Caterpillars do colossal harm

Prepare to prepare the larvae. Young shoots eat up the soft skin of the leaf blade from below. With growing up, appetites intensify. In the food there are leaves entirely. Having typed the necessary weight, in a month, creep into the soil. There they pupate. Already during the ripening of fruits the numerous second generation of the pest takes off. The sawfly on the gooseberry is a bare branch with small fruits, where leaf veins, similar to conifers, stick out instead of leaves.

To help the harvest

If you do not interfere with the vegetative process, do not take measures in time, you can ruin the plant. The struggle with the sawfly on gooseberries should be carried out in a complex manner.

  • Before the onset of frost, gather the fallen leaves and burn them.
  • Soil bedding in the root zone should be digested to a depth of at least 15 cm. Turn the layers of the earth so that the winter animals prepared for wintering are frozen. It would be good for these purposes to use not a shovel, but a pitchfork.
  • Ensure that the old branches are completely clipped.
  • Regularly mulch the soil.
  • If for some reason this was not done, the situation can be corrected in the early spring, until the buds on the branches are blown. The earth under the bush is loosened, a mixture of 2 cups of ash, ground pepper and dried mustard (1 tablespoon) is introduced. The earth is covered with a film. Under it the pest dies.
  • Use the thermal method: with the onset of spring, the warmed-up earth near the roots should be treated with boiling water.
  • Formed deformed, affected by sawfly berry pick up manually. Usually, it is done 15 days after flowering. The harvested harvest is destroyed. Periodically, the procedure is repeated until pupation of larvae in the soil.
  • The same is done with caterpillars. Carrying out regular inspections of bushes after flowering, you should pay special attention to the inside of the leaves. For this, the branches are raised. The larvae are collected manually or shaken off on a piece of tarpaulin, film spread under the bush.
  • As a repellent method, it is good to plant an elderberry bush in the garden or plant tansy between bushes of gooseberry: 1-2 plants for every 6 bushes of culture.
  • The smell of tomato tops, peppermint is also not tolerated by a pest, as is the “aroma” of diesel fuel, turpentine, other odorous substances.
  • During the summer of the imago, they are caught on light traps. Special tiles, cardboard boxes are painted in bright colors (orange, yellow), lubricated not by drying glue (from caterpillars).

By the autumn the caterpillar pupates and hides in the ground

Effective Chemicals

  • As soon as the currant, gooseberries fade, sprinkle bushes with 50% trichlorometaphos-3 (20 g per 10 liters of water). This will kill adult adults. When new insects appear, the treatment is repeated.
  • Bud formation: the bushes are treated with a solution (10%) of Carbophos. 75 g of composition per 10 liters of water.
  • Larvae of the first generation are destroyed by Trieslometometos-3. For this, 100 g of concentrated emulsified preparation (10%) is diluted in 10 liters of water.
  • Poisons of intestinal action (Paris greens, arsenate of calcium) are mixed with slaked lime and sprayed onto the “bare” bush.
  • Insecticides: Inta-Vir, Decis, Kinmix, Karate, Iskra, Gardona, Fufanon (1%), Ambush – are used in early spring, even before the flowering of the plant.
  • In addition to insecticides, biocompounds are used: Lepidocide (10 liters of water and 25 g of substance), Bitoksibacillin (10 liters of water, 90 g of the drug), Dendrobacillin (water 10 g, preparation 40 g).

Decoctions and infusions

Drugs for a broad spectrum of action

Weakened bushes can be treated with nutritious additional fertilizer. When gooseberries, currants will bloom, the treatment will be treated with mustard, yarrow, wood ash, tobacco leaves or makhorka. For 10 liters of the present concentrate, 40 g of liquid soap is added to better fix the composition on the crown. If the treatment is repeated every 6 days 3 times, then it is possible to defeat the pest.

  • Dry mustard (100 g of dry powder) to insist in water (10 liters) two days. Dilute with cold water. It is added twice the amount of infusion. Another solution is liquid soap (40 g).
  • You can use tobacco dust. 1 kg is poured into a bucket of water. The infusion is ready for use after 24 hours.
  • Wood ash in dry form is sprayed in the morning on damp leaves dewy (0.5 kg per bush) at the end of spring or early June.
  • If the ovary is shallow, treatment with enterobacterin (50 g of formulation per bucket of water) is recommended. Or in a bucket of water, dilute 4 tbsp. spoon extract of needles.
  • The struggle with the larvae can be carried out with the infusion of fresh tomato leaves. Preparation: 0.5 fresh shoots (40 g dry), 40 grams of laundry soap are infused in 10 liters of water 24 hours. Before spraying the solution is filtered, diluted with water 1: 4.
  • Ash lye, decoction of chilli pepper (red) is also used as a measure of struggle with the sawfly.
  • If the elder does not grow in the garden, prepare a broth from it and sprinkle the gooseberry.
  • Until the bud budding, tar bushes are processed: 30 g per 10 liters of water and a little soap.

If you carry out preventive measures in time, do not lose your vigilance, take time to prepare infusions and solutions, then you can do without cardinal measures.

en.bestinsectkiller.com

Processing gooseberry spring boiling water. Small fire: fighting green pest tracks on gooseberries in spring. What to process gooseberries in early spring

Gooseberry gooseberry escape Aphis grossu-lariae Kalt . – the small sucking insect of pale green color, 1,1-1,9 mm long. Before treating gooseberries from these pests, you need to know that the eggs hibernate on the shoots near the buds, in early spring, in April the larvae hatch and feed on the juice of the buds, and later on the juice of leaf stalks and young shoots. Damaged petioles are bent, the growth of shoots ceases, lumps of twisted leaves are formed on the tops, inside of which there are colonies of aphids. In summer, females-settlers hatch, which fly over to neighboring plants and give rise to new colonies. Damaged aphids shoots continue to grow, and a lump of twisted leaves remains in the middle of the shoot. Gooseberry shoot aphid is often found on black and golden currants, less often on gooseberry.

Control measures. Spraying the bushes during bud break with one of the following drugs: fufanon, kemifos, kinmiks, aktellik, spark, Inta-Vir, fitoverm.

Look at these gooseberry pests and control them in the photo, which shows all the typical signs and ways to eliminate insects:

Elm leaf gum, or garden looper, or apple leaf beetle Liperus xanthopoda Schr. – black beetle, shiny, 4-6 mm long. It has yellow legs and yellow antennae with a dark top; in the female, the length of the antennae is equal to the body length. Beetles gnaw on the leaves large holes, without touching the veins. Before treating gooseberries in the spring from such pests, it is necessary to understand that they develop in one generation, occur in spring and summer on all fruit trees, many deciduous trees and many berry bushes. When a large number strongly damages the leaves and causes them to premature drying out.

Control measures. Prophylactic spraying of all trees and shrubs in the garden when buds are blooming and immediately after the flowering of fruit preparations, fufanon or its analogues (kemifos, karbofos).

See how these gooseberry pests look in the photo, where their appearance and distinctive features are demonstrated:

Treatment of gooseberry bushes from pests of pilers

Treatment of gooseberry bushes in the spring from pests contributes to the complete destruction of different types of sawyers. How to treat the gooseberry in the spring from pests can be found on this page – the following describes the varieties of sawmill and measures to combat them.

Gooseberry pale-footed sawfly Pristiphorapallipes Lep. – insect 5-6 mm long, black, with whitish legs. The larvae are bare, green. Older larvae hibernate in dense brilliant cocoon of dark brown color in the soil. In early spring they pupate there, in April insects of the first generation come out. Females lay eggs in the leaf tissue along the edges and near the veins from the bottom side. The fecundity of one female is 40-50 eggs.

The egg stage lasts 6-8 days, after which the larva hatch and gnaw small holes in the leaves. Growing up, the larvae devour the leaves from the edges and often barely expose the bushes, leaving only leaf petioles. Larvae often feed on the underside of the leaf, and disturbed ones quickly roll to the ground. The development of larvae continues for 20–25 days, after which they pupate in light-colored summer cocoons 5–7 mm long on leaves, stems, and soil.

After some time, adult insects come out and give rise to new generations. For a year, depending on weather conditions, 2-3 generations of the pest develop. The last generation larvae go to the soil and pupate. With a large number of pests, currant bushes and gooseberries lose most of their leaves, and the shoots do not have time to woody, which reduces the frost resistance of plants.

Control measures. Gooseberry treatment for pests begins with the collection and destruction of single larvae. Preventive spraying of berry bushes before flowering with one of the preparations: fufanon, kemifos. kinmiks, actellik, spark, Inta-Vir. With a large number of sprays spend the same drugs in the summer, given the waiting time.

Sawfly yellow gooseberry Nematus ribesii Scop . – insect 6-8 mm long, yellow, with black head and transparent wings. Larvae (caterpillars) up to 17 mm long, with 20 legs, grayish-green. Last larva larvae winter in cocoons in the soil to a depth of 5 cm, in the spring they pupate together; in two weeks, in the period of budding, adult insects fly out.

Females lay eggs along the veins on the underside of the leaves. The larvae come out of them, which first skeletonize the leaves, then eat out the holes, and in older age they eat the leaves entirely, leaving only the veins and petioles. The development of larvae lasts 15-28 days, after which they pupate in the soil, and in two weeks the second generation of the pest is released. The new generation is the most numerous and voracious, the larvae develop and feed in the second half of June and can destroy all the leaves and even berries on the bushes. After the end of feeding, the larvae of the second generation leave for the wintering grounds.

Control measures. Spraying the bushes before flowering and immediately after flowering with one of the following preparations: fufanon, kemifos, kinmiks, actellik, spark, Inta-Vir. With a large number of caterpillars, spraying is repeated in the summer, taking into account the waiting times for the preparations.

Caterpillars on a gooseberry: how to fight and what to process from them

How to deal with caterpillars on the gooseberry depends primarily on the type of pest. Most often are determined on the shrub poter buds, gooseberry moth, peppered moths and other equally beautiful and voracious butterflies. Measures to combat them necessarily include agrotechnical measures on the garden and the use of special chemicals. Before treating gooseberries from caterpillars, make sure that this procedure does not harm the environment. Start the fight in early spring and react in time when the butterflies and caterpillars appear.

Faceworm: than spraying gooseberries in the spring against pests

Kidney leafworm, or kidney choke Spilonota ocellana F. (syn. Tmetocera ocellana F.) – butterfly with a wingspan of 14-18 mm. The front wings are gray with a wide white stripe in the middle and a few dark strokes, the rear ones are grayish. The eggs are transparent, shiny, caterpillar 9-12 mm long, brown, with a black head and a black breast shield. The pupa is brown, 6-8 mm long.

Before spraying gooseberries in the spring against pests, you need to know that third-age caterpillars hibernate in white cocoons around the buds and in bark cracks. In early spring they leave the cocoon, bite into the buds and feed on the buds of the leaves. After budding, the caterpillars feed on buds and leaves, tightening them with a cobweb in a tight lump. Therefore, before you spray the gooseberries from pests, you need to collect and burn all the plant residues that have survived in the fall.

After feeding, the caterpillars pupate and about 9–15 days after the end of the apple blossom, butterflies fly out. Departure of butterflies stretched, and the mass of years is observed from the second decade of June. Each female lays up to 180 eggs, placing them one by one on the upper side of the leaves. Hatching caterpillars live between two leaf leaves attached by a cobweb, or between a leaf and a fruit, to which they are attached by a cobweb. Caterpillars are yellow-green, with a black head and chest shield. From early age, they gnaw through the leaf parenchyma and the skin of the fruit, which leads to the deformation and drying of the damaged leaves and fruits. The sheet worm damages all fruit and many berry crops, as well as forest species.

Control measures. With a large number of pests in the garden, an annual spraying is carried out in early spring, during the swelling of the kidneys, with one of the preparations: fufanon, kemifos, actellic. The treatment is repeated 2-3 weeks after the end of flowering.

Moth: spring treatment of gooseberries for pests

Kidney leaf worm Abraxas grossulariata L . – a large butterfly with a wingspan of 38-48 mm. The wings are yellow-white with numerous black spots and stripes. Caterpillars up to 40 mm long, grayish-white, with yellow stripes and a yellow belly, have two pairs of abdominal legs, because of which, moving, bend in half. Older caterpillars winter in special cocoons under fallen leaves. During the blooming period of the currant and gooseberry buds, the caterpillars emerge from cocoons, climb branches and gnaw buds and young leaves. In June, the caterpillars pupate in cobwebby cocoons attached to the branches of bushes; butterflies fly from the second half of June to July. Females lay eggs in small clusters between the veins on the underside of the leaves. After 12–20 days, the caterpillars hatch, feeding on leaves, gnawing large holes in them, weaving cocoons in the autumn, attaching them to the leaves and falling to the ground with the leaves. The pest is widely distributed in orchards and besides the berries it damages an apple tree, a pear, a plum, an apricot, a bird cherry.

Control measures. Spring processing of the gooseberry from the pest moths begins with the collection and burning of fallen leaves with pests cocoons. Preventive spraying of berry bushes before flowering with one of the preparations: fufanon, kemifos, kinmiks, actellik, spark, Inta-Vir. With a large number of caterpillars in the summer, repeated sprays are carried out after picking berries with the same preparations.

Fire Bug: Fighting Green Pest Caterpillars on Gooseberry Spring

Gooseberry ognevka Zophodia convolutella Zell . – a moth with a wingspan of 26-32 mm, flies at dusk and at night, hiding in the shade of bushes during the day. The front wings are gray with dark brown stripes, the back ones are light brown, one-color with a silver-white fringe, the design of the wings is variable. Caterpillars on gooseberry 10-11 mm long, younger yellow-white with a black head, green at an older age.

The pest control of gooseberries begins in the spring, since the pupae winter in the soil under the bushes at a depth of 1-3 cm. In the spring, before the gooseberry blooms, butterflies come out, which feed on nectar, the flight lasts 30-40 days. After fertilization, females lay eggs inside currant and gooseberry blossoms, as well as on ovaries and leaves. Green caterpillars on gooseberries damage berries, eating up pulp and seeds. With mass reproduction, caterpillars entangle the fruits with cobwebs, holding them together in large clumps. Damaged berries rot and dry up, so the moth is often called the gooseberry moth. Older caterpillars go under the bushes into the soil, weave cocoons and pupate, turning into brown pupae.

Control measures with caterpillars on the gooseberry consist in spraying the bushes before flowering and immediately after it with one of the preparations: fufanon, kemifos, actellic, kinmiks, spark, Inta-Vir. Collection and destruction of damaged berries, digging the soil under the bushes.

Prophylactic treatment of gooseberry bushes is particularly relevant in the spring. It should be noted that effective protection against diseases and pests in many cases can be provided without chemistry. Fungicidal agents can be replaced by folk methods.

In the spring care of gooseberries should be provided with all the basic agricultural technician and rules. After wintering, the plant returns to the active period of life, but during this period it becomes more vulnerable than ever. What to spray gooseberries, if the pests have already settled on the shrub, and maybe they are operating there since the fall?

Anyway, spraying of a gooseberry is a key stage of care of plants. Only in this case can you save it from various types of insects, which not only eat the leaves and berries of the shrub, but also spread infectious diseases. What specifically awaits the gardener in the process of cultivation of home gooseberries in the spring?

It is necessary first of all to understand the most common diseases of the shrub. After all, it is necessary not only to learn how to properly cure certain diseases, but also to clearly define them. And preferably in the early stages. Among the variety of diseases the greatest damage to the plant can bring:

  • powdery mildew. These are, in fact, microscopic fungi that affect not just a single part of the plant, but completely the entire shrub. First of all, white bloom appears on the gooseberry. Over time, it will darken. But these are only the first symptoms. The main danger of the disease lies in the fact that the plant ceases to develop, it literally freezes in growth. Then its leaves and fruits simply dry out. It is noteworthy that the frost is not a hindrance to this disease. Pathogenic bacteria can safely wait out adverse weather and next spring switch to young leaves and shoots;

  • rust. How to diagnose this disease? Simple enough – orange spots appear on the plant. Such a disease is transmitted by air, and the main source of infection can be sedge growing near your summer cottage. It is possible to fight this disease, but the main thing is to proceed to action in a timely manner.

There is only one conclusion: the sooner you treat spring bushes with special means, the sooner you get rid of diseases or prevent their spread.

  • aphid. These insects are considered sucking. They drink vegetable juices from the leaves and shoots of gooseberry. If you do nothing in time, the bush will start to dry and curl. In this case, the aphid multiplies rather intensively, so that in one season it can bring more than one offspring;

Folk remedies

How to handle gooseberries in the spring to save his life? It is not necessary to immediately purchase store fungicides. Are considered popular and folk methods cure bushes. These include copper and iron sulphate. Few people know, but these tools are considered to be a good alternative to shopping fungicides. In the process of processing homemade gooseberries, it is best to use exactly 1 percent solution of copper sulfate, since it is quite effective. These drugs can be used in pure form, with the addition of water. If desired, buy a fungicide prepared on the basis of copper or iron vitriol.

Today’s variety of drugs that effectively cope with various diseases is striking. The high performance shows the use of Fitosporin. What is this tool effective? The first thing the drug copes well with is fungal and bacterial diseases. What to do with gnawing and sucking insects? Against them there is its effective remedy – Fitoverm. Any caterpillars or beetles – all this will disappear after you apply Fitoverma or a drug similar in its characteristics.

For a comprehensive result, you can purchase a product called Topaz. It effectively removes pathogens of rust, powdery mildew, as well as various fungal diseases. Interestingly, this tool is absolutely harmless to humans, because it does not include any toxins in its composition. This means that it is possible to treat the gooseberry with this drug at any time of the year when it is urgently needed. However, whichever drug you prefer to use, try to strictly follow the instructions.

Most of the fungicides are toxic, so your task is not only to save the plant from insects and diseases, but not to overload it with substances harmful to your body.

Video “Processing gooseberry bushes”

From this video you will learn how to properly handle gooseberry bushes and currants from pests and diseases.

The treatment of gooseberries in the spring against pests and diseases cannot be neglected, since it is after winter that microorganisms and insect larvae become active and can weaken the plant even before the beginning of the growing season.

This article will describe the symptoms and causes of the main diseases of the gooseberry, effective methods of dealing with them and effective preventive measures that will help prevent infection.

Gooseberry diseases and their treatment with photos

There are a lot of gooseberry diseases, but if we take into account factors that can provoke infection and become familiar with the main symptoms of popular diseases, pathology can be prevented in time and the yield of the shrub can be preserved.

We give a description of the main diseases of the gooseberry with photos, causes and symptoms, so that each gardener can protect garden plants from infection.

The reasons

Most often, gooseberry disease provoked improper care of the plant. We can not allow the bed to be covered with weeds, as they can settle insect-carriers of pathogens.

In addition, you must strictly follow the rules of cultivation. For example, overmoistening of the soil in combination with a high temperature of the environment can cause fungal infection, and trimming a bush with an uninfected instrument can cause plant infection by viruses.

Each gooseberry disease has characteristic symptoms that prompt the gardener what measures should be taken to preserve the culture. Let’s take a closer look at the symptoms of the main diseases of this berry bush. (picture 1):

  1. Mealy dew refers to common fungal diseases, and can affect not only the stems and leaves, but also berries. A characteristic feature is the formation of white bloom, which gradually spreads and weakens the plant.
  2. Rust characterized by the formation of bright orange spots on the leaves. As a result, the bush weakens, and its fruits may fall off yet immature.
  3. Anthracnose accompanied by the formation of dark brown spots on the surface of the leaves. In the later stages, the leaf plate becomes hilly and rough. If you do not start treatment, the leaves will fall off, and the plant itself will stop growing and fruiting.

Figure 1. The main diseases of the gooseberry: 1 – powdery mildew, 2 – rust, 3 – anthracnose

For each disease described above, there are different methods of treatment and prevention. Moreover, the struggle should begin when the first symptoms are detected, since in the later stages of infection it may not be possible to save the plant, and the shrub will have to be dug out and burned along with the earthy clod.

Gooseberry diseases and their treatment: photos

Since powdery mildew, rust, and anthracnosis are among the most common and dangerous diseases, consider the methods of processing gooseberries from them (Figure 2).

To eliminate the powdery mildew, the bush must be treated with special antifungal chemicals. But, if the white bloom has spread throughout the plant and has turned into brown seals, it is impossible to save the gooseberry, so it is better to dig and burn.

Figure 2. Processing gooseberries against diseases

Rust-infected stands are sprayed with a one-percent solution of Bordeaux mixture. Processing is best done after flowering and repeat two more times with an interval of two weeks.

Anthracnose is easier to prevent than to cure. For prophylaxis, spring soil is treated with a solution of blue vitriol or nitrophene. But, if the symptoms still manifest themselves, it is necessary to spray infected cultures of Bordeaux mixture (100 grams of the drug on a bucket of water).

Gooseberry, diseases and their treatment: video

To quickly and easily cope with gooseberry diseases, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the video, which contains expert advice on the treatment and prevention of the most common pathologies of this culture.

Gooseberry diseases: white bloom on berries

Very often immature gooseberry berries are covered with white bloom. This is the first symptom of powdery mildew. And although at first glance it seems that such a sign does not pose a particular danger, without treatment, you can lose the entire crop, and in a few years – the bush itself.

Mealy dew belongs to fungal diseases, which are actively developed at high humidity. That is why you need to strictly follow the rules of care and cultivation.

The reasons

Most often, powdery mildew occurs in summer when the air temperature is high enough and the soil is wet. Such conditions are most suitable for the development of fungus, so you can not water the gooseberries too often.

Spores of the fungus are easily spread through the air and carry the winter in the soil. In addition, the grower himself can distribute them if he uses contaminated equipment for maintenance and trimming, so all tools must be disinfected before use.

Mealy dew got its name because of a characteristic symptom: the formation of a fluffy white bloom on leaves, stalks, and sometimes on fruits (Figure 3). Finding such a bloom on the shrub, you need to immediately begin treatment, since it is much more difficult to cure powdery mildew in its advanced form.

Figure 3. Formation of white bloom on gooseberry bushes

In the later stages, the white patina becomes dense and acquires a brown tint. If the whole plant is covered with such a substance, neither chemical nor folk remedies will help to cure the bush, and it is easier to dig and destroy it along with the earthy clod.

As mentioned above, powdery mildew is easier to treat in the initial stages. In this case, you can do with folk remedies without using chemicals.

For example, before the buds swell, the bushes and the soil around them can be sprayed with ordinary boiling water or copper sulfate solution (100 grams of the substance per bucket of water). This will help prevent the spread of the fungus.

If the disease does occur, you can use another folk remedy: 150 grams of soap are rubbed on a grater, mixed with a tablespoon of blue vitriol and dissolved in 10 liters of water. The finished solution should have a uniform flake-free consistency and a rich blue color. Spraying is carried out strictly after flowering, or in extreme cases – at the beginning of the formation of ovaries.

Note: Folk remedies will be effective only if the disease has just begun to manifest. With a strong defeat without chemical agents can not do.

The most effective drugs against powdery mildew is considered “Topaz”. The working solution is prepared according to the standard scheme set forth in the instructions. You can also use for this purpose, the substitute Bordeaux liquid “HOM”.

Gooseberry Pest: Flame

Moth is a very common and dangerous pest of gooseberries and currants. Adult individuals are brown butterflies that appear in spring and lay eggs on leaves and fruits.

Caterpillars hatch from eggs, which cause the main damage to the plant. In the event of a massive lesion, the pest is able to greatly weaken or even completely destroy the plantings, so it is important to know the causes and symptoms of the pest damage in order to take preventive and curative measures in time.

The reasons

The distribution of the moth is almost independent of external factors, since insects can move freely from one garden to another. But there are a number of factors that can increase the risk of injury.

The first step is to remove all the weeds in the area with gooseberries. Thickened plantings also provoke the spread of pests. In addition, the larvae of future butterflies successfully hibernate in the ground, so in early spring, before the buds swell, it is necessary to pour the soil around the bushes with hot water to destroy them.

The author of the video will tell you how to deal with the gooseberry on the way.

It is easy to notice the tracks of the moth on the bushes: they are distinguished by a bright green color, but their head is black. They are easy to spot only if there are many caterpillars. With a slight lesion, it can be problematic to notice the pest, but in this case one should pay attention to the plant itself.

Figure 4. The defeat of the bushes and berries of the gooseberry caterpillars moth

If the berries and leaves of the gooseberry are entangled with cobwebs and damaged, it means that it has become a victim of the pest (Figure 4). We can not allow the caterpillars to spread, therefore, at the first symptoms of a lesion, it is necessary to take measures to destroy insects.

If the bushes are few, you can collect the damaged berries and caterpillars manually and destroy. But, if the gooseberry plantings are numerous, it is better to spray all the plants with a solution of karbofos (5 grams per bucket of water).

In addition, in order to prevent the spread of the pest, it is important not to thicken the plantings, to thin out the crown in time and to remove weeds.

Gooseberry diseases: rust on the branches

If the gooseberry leaves are covered with orange bumps or yellow spots, it means that the plant has become a victim of rust – a dangerous disease that not only damages the appearance of the shrubs, but also reduces their yield.

The reasons

A number of factors can provoke rust. First, the disease manifests itself at elevated temperature and humidity, therefore, in the summertime, it is necessary to strictly control the frequency of irrigation and to avoid overmoistening of the soil.

Secondly, some plants, planted next to the gooseberry, can cause the development of the disease. For example, if sedge, pine or spruce grows next to a shrub, crop plants can quickly become a victim of the disease, so the placement of gooseberries on the plot should be treated very carefully.

Rust is a fungal disease, and its symptoms are quite characteristic and difficult to confuse them with other diseases.

Symptoms occur on affected plants. (Figure 5):

  • Leaves covered with yellow spots or orange tubercles;
  • As the fungus spores develop, the color of the spots darkens, turning into rusty or brown;
  • Leaves on infected shrubs begin to dry quickly and fall prematurely.

Rust quickly weakens the plant. Even if fruits are formed on such a shrub, they become small, lose their shape and fall off early. If time does not take measures to treat rust, shrubs can quickly die.

To eliminate signs of rust, contact and systemic fungicides are used. But, besides the use of chemicals, they use simple prevention methods that will help prevent contamination.

Figure 5. Rust Symptoms on Gooseberry Leaves

Firstly, varieties resistant to fungi should be selected, and plants should be planted in areas without sedge and at some distance from conifers. Secondly, for the prevention, the Bordeaux bushes should be treated (in spring, before the appearance of leaves, during budding and immediately after completion of flowering). In addition, you need to regularly weed out the weeds on the site and collect all the fallen leaves in the fall.

How to cure gooseberry disease: American powdery mildew

Mealy dew is one of the most common diseases of fruit crops, including gooseberry. The infected plants are covered with white bloom, which looks like a web.

The danger of American powdery mildew is not only that it spoils the attractive appearance of the bushes, but also that the mass spread of the fungus can weaken the plant, reduce its yield and even cause the death of the crop during a massive lesion.

More information about the disease and how to deal with it can be found in the video.

The reasons

Since the American powdery mildew belongs to the fungal diseases, the provoking factors are, first of all, high humidity of the air and soil, and high temperature of the environment.

Mealy dew most often appears in the summer, so in the warm season it is necessary to strictly observe the irrigation schedule and avoid over-wetting of the soil. In addition, the spread of fungus contribute to weeds and thickening of planting, so the gooseberry bushes need to regularly thin out and remove all weeds from the site in time.

The first characteristic feature is the formation of white bloom on the leaves, stems and fruits of a plant (Figure 6). It is at this stage that the struggle with powdery mildew easiest As the disease spreads, the white bloom acquires a brown tint, becomes more dense, and the tissues under it crack. As a result, the young shoots begin to dry out, and the leaves and fruits – to crumble.

Figure 6. Signs of American Powdery Mildew on Gooseberry

Powdery mildew begins to fight after the discovery of the first symptoms. If the infection coincided with a period of flowering and fruiting, the bushes can be sprayed with a solution of soda ash and soap (5 grams of soda is mixed with 50 grams of rubbed soap and diluted in 10 liters of water). The treatment is repeated two more times with an interval of 10 days.

If symptoms appear in early spring, before the buds open, you can use fungicides or a 3% solution of iron sulphate.

How to cure gooseberry from scab

Scab is not considered a characteristic gooseberry disease. This disease often affects potatoes and fruit trees, but in some cases it can appear on berry bushes.

It is difficult to notice the scab in time, since it practically does not manifest itself in the initial stages of infection, and symptoms can be detected only with a strong spread of pathology.

The reasons

As mentioned above, gooseberries rarely become infected with scab. This is only possible if an infected fruit tree grows next to the shrub.

If you do not want the fruit to be infected with this disease, treat other plants in the garden on time and strictly adhere to agrotechnical measures for the care of fruit crops.

Scab causes the formation of characteristic light brown spots on leaves, young shoots and berries (Figure 7). By themselves, these spots are not dangerous, but with a strong spread of the disease the plant can weaken and stop fruiting.

Figure 7. Scab on gooseberry berries

To combat the disease, use a spraying of plantings with Bordeaux mixture, a solution of phytosporin or copper sulphate, and you need to process not only the gooseberry itself, but also the crops growing nearby.

Protection of gooseberry from pests and diseases in the spring

It is best to begin the prevention of gooseberry diseases and pests in the spring, when the buds are not awake. In this case, you can safely destroy the larvae of pests and pathogens without harm to the shrub itself.

First of all, in the spring it is necessary to spray gooseberry bushes with boiling water, not only above-ground parts of the plant, but also the soil around them, in order to destroy microorganisms that may be in the soil.

Note: Processing can be carried out only to the swelling of the kidneys. If the procedure is carried out later, you risk burning and killing the bush.

In addition, in the spring it is necessary to conduct sanitary pruning, removing all damaged branches. In the future, they will not only weaken the plant, but can also become a source of dangerous diseases. After blooming leaves also apply spraying plantings Bordeaux liquid with an interval of two weeks.

The video shows which means can be used to protect the gooseberry from diseases.

Perhaps it is difficult to find a garden in which there would not be a single gooseberry bush. With high yields, gooseberries can bear fruit up to ten, and in record cases up to forty years. Of course, in order to achieve such results, the berry crop requires careful care, after all, not only the man appreciated the gooseberries at its true worth – there are plenty of people who like to eat juicy berries and leaves in nature.

Over the long years of life, the gooseberry can face fifty different pests, each of which selects its own special type of attack. Naturally, to ensure good care a gardener needs to know the habits of insects and methods of dealing with them.

Common gooseberry enemies

Small, no more than 5 mm, insects, divided into several species: acacia, comma-shaped scab, willow scab, are so called because of the covering body of a characteristic brown oval flap with a tint of yellow or brick.

Flags are hatched from eggs remaining under the shield of the female dying during the laying. Masonry occurs at the beginning of May, and in June the larvae already leave the mother’s body, press against the bark of the gooseberry and begin to grow slowly, in the process of molting acquiring adult shells. Their whole future life also takes place on a bush, up to wintering in the crevices of the crust.

They feed on shchitovki by sucking the juice from the shoots and the trunk of the gooseberry, which, with an abundance of insects, especially females, leads to weakening and drying of the branches.

It is possible to fight with the shield only by cutting and burning the branches damaged by it, as well as by spraying with the solution of the drug DNOC, which will help to kill young larvae.

A graceful butterfly with a wingspan of about two or three centimeters got its name because of the brilliant mica-colored lilac scales covering its entire body. It appears at the end of June and feeds on the nectar of the blossoming raspberry. For gooseberries, the danger is borne by the grubs butterfly-laying eggs (up to fifty in one laying), attached to the cracks of the bark.

The currant larvae burrow into the wood, tending to the core in search of the sweet juice of the plant. One larva can drill up to forty centimeters. Here they spend two winterings, going out only a year later, where after pupation they turn into butterflies.

Invasion of grubs on gooseberries can be disastrous – there are cases when whole bushes dried out on the vine.

To prevent such situations, gardeners can advise spraying the bushes immediately after flowering and careful tracking of damage to the bark. Plant wounds, hemp and fresh slices must be smeared with garden pitch.

Spider mite

Spider mite is another malicious gooseberry pest.

A small tick living on the underside of the leaf, not more than 0.4 mm, sucks out the sap of the plant and braids the gooseberry with a thin web.

Marble leaves, damaged by a tick, are easy to recognize – those who have lost pigmentation, they quickly dry out and fall off. Gooseberries, attacked by ticks, sharply lose yields and do not tolerate wintering very well.

Tick ​​females lay well visible greenish eggs immediately after hibernation, which is carried out in fallen leaves and roots of bushes. Their goal is barely blooming buds, which become insects and food and home for posterity.

The peak of tick development is in the middle of August, and hot and dry weather contributes to mass distribution.

It is possible to fight ticks by collecting egg layings, prophylactic and additional (in case of invasion) by spraying with any of the acaricides (with annual alternation of drugs, as ticks develop immunity), destroying infected leaves, spraying the bushes with water in the heat.

Also good preventive results are provided by the destruction of weeds and the annual burning of fallen leaves.

Aph />can produce up to ten generations.

Eggs survive the winter on the bark of the plant in close proximity to future buds. The cycle of growth and reproduction begins with the swelling of the kidneys – after ten days the larvae turn into adult individuals, ready for later reproduction. The fifth generation gives birth to winged individuals, settling in search of places for new colonies. In September, the last generation laid eggs and larvae that can hibernate until next spring.

The presence of aphids on the gooseberries is noticeable by the leaves twisted into tight clumps, in the depth of which the colony flourishes.

Aphids suspend the emergence of new shoots and significantly slows down the development of the plant.

The most effective measure to counter the spread of aphids can be called insecticide spraying. Other chemicals in practice are practically useless.

Aphid, an insect whose size does not exceed two millimeters, is nevertheless a big problem for gardeners. Wintering in the form of eggs, spring aphids go hunting for fresh greens in a colony of extremely voracious small larvae.

The difference from the usual gooseberry aphid is that the shoots, as can be judged by the name, prefer to settle not on young leaves, but on young succulent shoots of the plant.

Methods of dealing with any aphids are the same.

Gooseberry sawflies

Yellow gooseberry sawfly is clearly visible in the foliage due to its size (up to one centimeter) and bright reddish-yellow body. Equipped with an impressive antennae, females males have strong wings, reaching one and a half centimeters in scope.

In the autumn, the females lay several dozen milky-white eggs, of which, within a week and a half, caterpillars emerge, immediately after birth, building parchment cocoons around themselves and hibernating to turn into pupae in early spring.

Juveniles leave the pupae when the first leaves appear and immediately start laying eggs in small cuts near the main leaf veins. After two weeks, the larvae begin to eat the leaf, starting with scraping the upper layer, turning to full gnawing of the plant mass as it grows. In addition to the leaves, the larvae do not neglect the young berries.

The damage done by the larvae is manifested in the inhibition of plant growth, the delayed development of berries, and the reduction of future buds.

It is necessary to fight the larvae of the sawyer, both chemically (using insecticides) and mechanically – by digging up the ground in the autumn in a plot during which the cocoons of the larvae are destroyed.

Pale Legged

This species of sawyers differs from its counterparts in the form of bright green caterpillars with ten pairs of legs, leaving the leaves to the state of a cobweb from the veins. During the vegetative season, up to three or four generations of sawyers can develop.

As is the case with other types of sawfiers, most insecticides, removing fallen leaves and, of course, hand-shaking the larvae on the film laid out on the ground will be effective against insect control.

Gooseberry firing pin

Butterflies of the moth are so named for the arrogant appearance, their dark red wings, reaching three centimeters in scope, are decorated with a pattern of brown spots.

Light green caterpillars that grow up to two centimeters hatch from eggs laid. Caterpillars of ognivki prefer to feed on ovaries, not allowing future berries to develop. One caterpillar is capable of destroying up to 12 berries, wrapping around the place of the ovary with a dense web.

The simplest method of dealing with fire moths can be considered the regular destruction of spider nests along with their inhabitants.

It is also worth spraying gooseberries with insecticides after flowering or, if last summer was marred by an invasion of caterpillars, before the first ovaries appeared.

Gooseberry moth

A large butterfly, with a wingspan of more than five centimeters, whose caterpillars, striking in their size (up to 4 cm), cause great damage to the green mass of the bush, gnawing young leaves to holes. At the end of the vegetative season, the caterpillars that have accumulated mass fall into the fallen leaves and wrap themselves in a spider cocoon for wintering, in order to continue the reproduction cycle next year.

Most gardeners recommend spraying with insecticides from the moment buds bud until the time when the buds appear.

General Gooseberry Treatment Measures against Pests

  1. Autumn earth hilling, destroying the cocoons of larvae, with a small layer of peat falling asleep to prevent the butterflies from flying.
  2. Shelter in the spring of land under the bushes dense film until the ovaries flowering.
  3. Loosening the land during the entire agricultural season.
  4. Spraying with all sorts of biological and chemical preparations – solutions of karbofos, bromophos, Int-vira.
  5. Spraying a solution of fertilizer in high concentration, for example, 700 g, diluted in 10 liters of water.
  6. Using herbal infusions: from the roots and leaves of celandine, tomato tops and many others.
  7. Planting tomatoes in close proximity to gooseberry bushes: most pests do not tolerate their strong smell.

And most importantly: the weaker the plant, the greater the chances of pests to gain the upper hand over it. Maintaining the bushes in a healthy state, constant pruning and feeding will allow the gooseberry to easily transfer all the misfortunes and delight gardeners with an excellent harvest.

Berry crops are popular among gardeners. At each summer cottage their presence is necessarily detected. It is clear that every gardener’s desire to receive annually abundant high-quality yields of delicious and healthy currant and gooseberry berries. Like any culture, they have a lot of dangerous pests and diseases that can negate all the efforts. Many of them overwinter on the branches of bushes or in the soil around the plant. In order to cope with colonies of hibernating pests and infections, timely preventive measures are needed, which they begin to perform when there is snow in the garden.

Before treating currants and gooseberries in early spring, it is necessary to know the characteristic signs of pests and their wintering grounds. These berry crops, similar in biology, are affected by the same diseases and pests. Therefore, most of the control and plant protection measures will be the same.

Old proven method

As soon as the snow begins to melt in the garden, it is time for berry bushes to take protective measures. How to handle gooseberry in early spring? This question arose more than once in novice gardeners. A good and reliable technique that can get rid of many pests is the treatment of currants and gooseberries with hot water. For this boiling water is poured into a watering can. The resulting solution is poured over the branches of the bush, as well as the soil cover around it. As a result of this “bathing”, the pests present will die, and the plant itself will not suffer.

Currant kidney mole: description, methods of struggle

At what stage of plant development and how to handle gooseberries in early spring, is determined by the features of the biology of the pest. Its presence can be identified by the appearance of the plant. Shoots damaged by the pest look burned or frozen. Currant bud moth – an insect that can completely destroy the crop. Caterpillars damage Each can damage from three to seven pieces. At the beginning of flowering, the caterpillars pupate, settling in the soil cover under the bush.

During the formation of the ovary, they turn into yellowish-brown butterflies that continue to damage the bushes. During this period, they lay eggs in the emerging berries. Unripe fruits serve as food for newly emerging pests.

To prevent its reproduction begin in early spring. The complex of measures will be effective only until bud break and plant bloom. Before treating gooseberries, in the early spring, cut out all damaged and dry shoots and hemp. At the base of the bush, plant residues are removed, which are burned along with the trimmed branches.

During the flowering period, after the appearance of bud moth butterflies, the second stage of pest control begins. This is spraying with a one-percent solution of Aktara. Gardeners, who try not to use chemicals, use plant extracts to combat the bud moth: tomato tops, celandine, mustard, and tansy.

Gooseberry moth

Voracious yellow caterpillar feeds on foliage. It is able to completely expose gooseberry and currant bushes. The pest winters under fallen leaves. To destroy it, you can use the method of irrigation of the soil cover with boiling water. Plant residues under the bushes are removed and burned. In addition, it is advisable to use special drugs. How to treat currants and gooseberries in early spring? First, spraying is performed before bud break. To do this, use “Karbofos” or infusions of wormwood and tobacco. If these activities are not carried out in early spring, in summer the caterpillars turn into yellow-white butterflies with black dots on the wings.

They lay eggs on the underside of the gooseberry foliage, subsequently turning into voracious caterpillars. During this period, perform a second treatment with herbal infusions.

Gooseberry sawflies

There are different types of pest. It is yellow and pale-legged sawflies. They are distinguished by body shape and color. The yellow sawfly is a reddish-sand insect. Its caterpillar is bluish-green. Pale-footed sawfly is a black insect. The caterpillar of this species reaches 10 mm in length and has a green color. These pests destroy the foliage of shrubs. They overwinter in the soil cover, under the bushes, at a depth of at least five centimeters. Before treating gooseberries in the early spring from pests, it is necessary to dig up the soil in the places of its wintering. For spraying use solutions of special tools designed to protect plants.

Effective will be the use of microbiological drug “Lepidotsid”. The solution is prepared at the rate of thirty grams per ten liters of water. Also used bacterial biopreparation “Bitoxibacillin”, which is recommended in any phase of development of the shrub. The solution is prepared at the rate of one hundred grams per ten liters of water. In the absence of special tools, treatment can be carried out with infusions of tobacco or garlic.

Gooseberry firing pin

It damages ripening berries. The pupae overwinter in the soil cover around the currant and gooseberry bushes. In the spring, butterflies appear from them, which make masonry during flowering. Hatching green caterpillars will appear in a week. A gluttonous pest can completely destroy the entire crop. Early spring processing of bushes with boiling water will be useful for combating it.

Considerable damage and bring care of the bush, providing timely preventive measures, can save the plants.

One of the major diseases of berry crops is caused by the fungus.

Berries, stems and leaves are covered, which are covered with white bloom. Especially severely damaged ripening fruits of the gooseberry. How to deal with this disease? How to handle gooseberry in early spring?

At protection the whole complex of actions is necessary. First of all, in the autumn and spring periods, the affected shoots are removed. The source of infection can be plant residues that are collected and burned. It is obligatory to conduct spraying with special preparations. To do this, use the fungicide complex action “Nitrofen”. The solution is prepared at the rate of one hundred grams per ten liters of water. In addition to this drug, you can apply the solution for spraying is prepared at the rate of fifty grams per ten liters of water. Protective measures are performed before bud break.

Anthracnose

The disease affecting the leaves, branches and berries of currants and gooseberries, leads to a loss of harvest not only this year, but the next. Its causative agent is a mushroom. The disease manifests itself in the form of brown spots.

To prevent its spread, comprehensive preventive and protective measures should be taken. They include the removal and burning of plant residues that will be the source of infection of the berries. Digging up the soil cover around the bushes is done by embedding the upper soil cover to a depth of at least ten centimeters.

In addition to mechanical measures, it is necessary to make use of chemicals at different times. How to spray gooseberries in the spring? Prior to the beginning of the vegetative period, solutions of the following preparations are used:

  • “Nitrofen” – three hundred grams per ten liters of water;
  • copper sulfate – four hundred grams per ten liters of water.

In the summer period, Bordeaux fluid treatment is carried out. Sprayed not only plants, but the soil around the bush.

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