Does sevin spray kill grasshoppers
- Does sevin spray kill grasshoppers
- How do I control Grasshoppers?
- How to Kill Grasshoppers Without Poison
- Related Articles
- Grasshopper Control
- Grasshopper Control: Expert Advice
- Maintain Beneficial Havens
- Provide Bird Perches
- Use Row Covers
- Feed Your Fowl
- Let Some Tall Grass Grow
- Make Friends with Fungi
Does sevin spray kill grasshoppers
Chad Cheyney, Extension Educator
My yard backs up on the desert behind my house and this weekend, while I was mowing the lawn, I noticed that I was disturbing a cloud of ½” long grasshopper, which were moving into my vegetable garden in search of a free meal as the desert begins to dry up. If I have them, then probably somebody else does too. Sure enough! The very first call Monday morning was: “HOW CAN I CONTROL GRASSHOPPERS IN MY YARD AND GARDEN?”. So here are some suggestions from Diane Alston USU Extension entomologist.
How to Control Grasshoppers in Your Garden
by Diane Alston, Utah State University Extension entomologist
There are two keys to success in combating grasshopper infestations in the yard and garden:
1) work together as a neighborhood to treat as broad of an area as possible as soon as grasshoppers begin to move into yards from nearby open fields and rangelands, and
2) initiate control while grasshoppers are young. When grasshoppers become adults, they eat much more per day and can fly over treated areas.
Grasshoppers lay their eggs in undisturbed soil in the late summer and fall. Eggs hatch the following spring and the nymphs (young grasshoppers) walk until they find attractive vegetation to feed on. Grasses and forbs growing on open lands can satisfy their hunger early in the season, but as populations increase in size and non-irrigated plants dry with warming temperatures and reduced rainfall, the grasshoppers will move to where they can find lush, green plants to eat. This is when they become a pest in the landscape and garden. Consider these tips for control.
• Mechanical and chemical methods can be used to control grasshoppers. Mowing a wide swath around borders of open fields can reduce migration of grasshopper nymphs walking across the mowed boundary. Insecticides should also be applied to boundaries between home yards and open fields, hedgerows, roadsides, drainage ditches and other weedy and unmanaged lands. In order to be effective, mowing and insecticide treatments should be initiated while grasshopper nymphs are small and before their developing wing pads are noticeable.
• There are three types of insecticide formulations that can be used for killing grasshoppers: baits, dusts and sprays. Baits consist of wheat bran combined with the insecticide, carbaryl, or a natural grasshopper pathogen, Nosema locustae. Baits should be spread evenly throughout the boundary habitat and grasshoppers will consume the bait as they forage. Baits selectively kill only grasshoppers and other foraging insects. They must be reapplied following rainfall or sprinkler irrigation. Examples of carbaryl bait brands include Lily Miller Grasshopper Bait, Sevin 5 Bait and Eco Bran 2 percent. Baits containing the natural pathogen include NOLO Bait Biological and Planet Natural Semaspore Bait.
• Carbaryl (Sevin) is the only type of dust registered for home yard application. Dusts are easy to apply, but are more expensive than sprays and must be reapplied after rain or irrigation. A number of insecticide sprays that can suppress grasshoppers include malathion, permethrin (Spectracide, Bonide Eight, Basic Solutions), bifenthrin (Allectus, Brigade, Sniper and Talstar) and carbaryl (Sevin). Some spray products are not for use on edible plants and some are restricted to licensed applicators only, so be sure to read the product label before purchase and application. Sprayable formulations tend to be less expensive and can kill on contact and when grasshoppers eat the treated vegetation. Sprays are not selective and can kill beneficial insects, pollinators and other susceptible animals, so careful application and appropriate timing are important to protect non-target animals.[It is important to read the pesticide label to be sure that the material you are purchasing is licensed to apply to the site (place in the environment) where you want to control the pest. Many pesticides licenses for use on food crops have a minimum harvest interval between application and harvest which must also be observed. Chad Cheyney, Butte Extension]
How do I control Grasshoppers?
The first question you’ve got to ask is are the grasshoppers doing damage. or are they just sitting on your plants? Try these simple things; if they don?t work, then we start using poison and other less desirable methods.
If they are doing heavy damage to the leaves, try placing a few dead ones on your plants, hang them there in plain view. Smash up some fresh cloves of garlic and spread them around your plants. Try Moth balls (They seem to repel all kinds of critters).
Set up some stakes around the perimeter of your plants, and use a fine mesh around your plants. It will let in lots of light, air, rain, etc but keep the larger critters like grasshoppers out. Make sure you do not trap a bunch of them within the mesh when setting it up. This method completely ruins a stealth garden. In addition, you must remove the mesh when you water/feed your plants, and you will have to keep raising it higher as your plants grow taller.
You can try spraying with a homemade mixture. Mix water, crushed garlic, hot peppers, tobascco sauce, and other hot and/or repulsive ingredients into a big pot, bring to boil, stewing everything around. Let this mixture sit for a few days, stirring occasionally. Strain the liquid out into a spray bottle and spray your plants two or three times a week, and after rainfall. Try not to spray the bud sites later into the season. That should keep the buggers away; however the sweet liquid may attract ants, which are easier to kill off.
If the hoppers are persistent, you can add poison (like diaznol or similar) and spray the plants, but be very careful not to spray the bud sites! Some chemicals are ‘puffed’ onto your plants, however after morning dew or rain, the powder will get wet and run into your buds! As a result, the powder will remain as a wet clump and cause mold, ruining your entire crop. If your crop does survive, you are smoking poison.
Stoner133 has brought to my attention that the natural enemies of grasshoppers include beetles, birds, mice, snakes, and spiders.
brokenear suggests this recipe:
7 pints water
1 pint liquid Sevin % Dust
1 pint molasses
10 pints wheat germ
Mix all together to form a dough-like substance and roll into balls to place around your plants. You can even mold a string into the balls and hang them in your plants. Apparently the hoppers love it, to death! Bait provides yet another option for grasshopper control. Sevin insecticide can be impregnated on bran bait at a rate of 2% or 5% to provide good control, when properly timed.
How to Kill Grasshoppers Without Poison
Don’t let grasshoppers eat away at your plants’ foliage.
- 1 Make Earwig Control at Home
- 2 Kill Bugs With Sodium Bicarbonate
- 3 Kill Creeping Charlie Without Weed Killer
- 4 Keep Grasshoppers Off Leaves Naturally
While not the most common of backyard garden pests, grasshoppers occasionally show up on your plants where they feed on foliage and stems. The random appearance of a grasshopper shouldn’t cause alarm. However, once grasshopper populations reach five to eight insects per square foot of garden space, take action to protect your landscape from these hungry pests. While poisons such as diflubenzuron and permethrin can adequately control grasshoppers, try a non-toxic, natural alternative first. You have several options available to you, ranging from mechanical removal to homemade traps.
Pull on gloves, pick the grasshoppers off of your plants by hand and drop them into a bucket of soapy water to kill them. For the best results, do this in the evening with a flashlight or in the early morning when the cooler temperatures make the grasshoppers sedentary.
Trap the grasshoppers if manual removal is too time-intensive for you. Fill an empty container, such as a rinsed-out tuna can, with a combination of 1 part molasses and 10 parts water. The sugar in the molasses will attract the grasshoppers, which will drown in the liquid solution.
Bait the grasshoppers with any of the commercially available grasshopper bait products formulated with Nosema locustae, a natural grasshopper disease. This option works best if you want a completely hands-off approach to grasshopper control. Place the bait pellets, which are made with bran, wherever you notice grasshopper activity. The grasshoppers eat the bran and get exposed to the disease spores, which kill approximately 50 percent of exposed grasshoppers within 14 days.
Spray the grasshoppers with an all-natural insecticidal soap if all other attempts at control do not work. These natural sprays, formulated with sodium or potassium salts combined with fatty oils, kill grasshoppers and other insect pests upon contact. Apply the soap spray directly on the grasshoppers for best results.
Q: Grasshoppers have invaded my garden and are munching on all the tender young tomato plants. They have decimated one entire bed of veggie transplants. How can I get rid of these pests?
Thanks for any advice. Mary
A: Not knowing what style of gardening you practice (scorched-earth or earth mother), I’m going to suggest alternate courses of action.
If you’re a lock-and-load, take-no-prisoners, I want ’em dead-dead-dead now type, you should try a broad-spectrum, chemical insecticide such as carbaryl. You’ll find it in Bayer Advanced Complete Insect Killer, which is widely available at home and garden centers. Follow label directions carefully. Keep it on the foliage, not the fruit.
Now if you’re the earth-mama type but still want the problem solved before your plants are just a theory, I’ll give you a few natural-organic solutions that seem kinder and gentler, but still result in dearly departed grasshoppers.
1. Neem oil — This plant-based extract smells and tastes horrible to insects and disrupts their metabolism. You can buy this at garden centers or online.
2. Diatomaceous earth — This white fluffy stuff that comes in a bag looks like talcum powder. It’s made up from the exoskeletons of microscopic algae called diatoms. It slices through the exoskeletons of insects and other pests, causing the goo inside to ooze out. Just dust it on the leaves and stems. If rain washes it off, you have to dust again. Again, you can find this locally and online.
3. Pyola — Not the same as payola, which is money kickbacked to radio stations. Pyola is a broad-spectrum natural insecticide made from combining an extract of chrysanthemum flowers with plain old canola oil. Very eco-friendly. You can order it from www.gardensalive.com.
Hope this helps. Now get out there and kill something. Grumpy
Q: Dear Grumpy, Thank you so much for your thoughtful reply. I probably fall somewhere in between the scorched-earth and earth mother mode. I have a huge lot in the middle of town and work 40 hours a week so I would love to be completely eco-friendly but it just does not always happen.
With the Bayer solution, it will be too difficult to keep that stuff off the fruit. So, on to your earth-momma suggestions:
Neem oil – the stuff I’ve read says it’s best used during the ‘nymph stage’. Apparantly grasshoppers go through several nymph stages. How do I know where in the cycle they are? Is it calendar or air temperature based?
DE – this sounds like the best solution but will it hurt the toads I am growing from tadpoles? These were to be my defense but they are not progressing into toads quickly enough.
Pyola – ditto my DE questions. OK for toads?
Thanks so much. I just wanna kill hoppers – now!
A: Dear Mary, The nymph stage in grasshoppers (also known as the “Paris Hilton stage”) refers to an immature grasshopper that is somewhat smaller than an adult and does not yet have wings, so it can’t fly. It sure can eat, though. When it attains this stage depends on the food supply and when it hatched out. I haven’t heard of diatomaceous earth having any adverse affect on toads — unless, of course, you drop them in a bucket of it, which would make you a really mean person. Pyola should not hurt toads either. You spray it on the plants, not the ground. And because it’s made with canola oil, it won’t raise their cholesterol. Grumpy
Grasshoppers are familiar insects across the United States. Several hundred species exist and rarely cause gardeners problems, but several species cause widespread garden destruction. Grasshopper damage often occurs in cycles, as populations build from year to year and grasshoppers migrate in search of food. They can fly and jump great distances, due to stout, winged bodies and large, strong hind legs. When numbers are high and grasshoppers are hungry, they devour and defoliate entire gardens.
Identification: Grasshoppers come in many sizes, colors and patterns, often blending in with the greens, browns and yellows of grass and garden plants. Common grasshoppers grow 3/4 to 2 inches long, but some are much smaller or larger. Occasionally mistaken for crickets, grasshoppers have shorter antennae and larger hind legs.
Signs/Damage: Most grasshoppers don’t target specific plants. They prefer young, tender growth, but they’ll feed on all types of plants and plant parts. Their large, chewing mouthparts do extensive damage. Rather than chewing small holes, grasshoppers consume large sections of leaves, flowers, vegetables and fruit.
Control: Grasshoppers often lay their eggs in weedy, unmaintained areas. Then they migrate to cultivated gardens. Effective treatment reaches both gardens and their borders. GardenTech ® brand offers several highly effective options to kill grasshoppers by contact and keep protecting your plants for up to three months:
- Sevin ® Insect Killer Ready to Use simplifies treating target plants and small garden areas. Select the “stream” setting for direct, precision spraying. To treat wider areas, adjust the nozzle to the “spray” setting.
- Sevin ® Insect Killer Granules, applied with a regular lawn spreader, provide effective grasshopper control for lawn and garden areas. Broadcast the ready-to-use granules or use a lawn spreader for full-yard treatments. Then water the area immediately to release the active ingredients.
- Sevin ® Insect Killer Ready to Spray attaches to your garden hose and measures and mixes as you spray. This non-staining formula is ideal for treating grassy borders, larger garden areas and plantings near your home’s foundation.
- Sevin ® Insect Killer Concentrate, used with a pump-style sprayer, simplifies treating lawns, gardens and foundation plantings. Measure the non-staining formula with the measuring cap, add water to your sprayer, and mix well. Cover all surfaces thoroughly to kill existing grasshoppers and protect against new arrivals.
Tip: Keep garden areas and nearby borders free of long grasses and weeds where grasshoppers may lay eggs. Till vegetable gardens in fall and spring to expose overwintering eggs and reduce grasshopper populations.
Always read product labels and follow the instructions carefully, including guidelines for pre-harvest intervals on edible crops.
GardenTech is a registered trademark of Gulfstream Home and Garden, Inc.
Sevin is a registered trademark of Tessenderlo Kerley, Inc.
Grasshopper Control: Expert Advice
Wherever you find grass, you will also find grasshoppers, and a few of the hundreds of grasshopper species found in North America can be major garden pests. Cool, rainy summers cause many grasshoppers to fall prey to disease, while hot, dry weather can lead to major grasshopper headaches.
Hand-picking them is impractical, because with the help of their big compound eyes, grasshoppers see you before you see them. So what’s a grasshopper-plagued gardener to do? Here are six proven eco-safe strategies for dealing with hordes of ’hoppers.
Maintain Beneficial Havens
Baby grasshoppers hatch in spring and early summer from eggs hidden just beneath the surface in soil. Young grasshoppers hide out in sheltered spots that are dense with vegetation, where most of them are eaten by spiders, ground beetles, frogs and other predators. Thus, islands of dense mixed herbs, grasses and flowers located in or near your garden can serve as early-season traps for young grasshoppers.
Provide Bird Perches
Insect-eating birds are major grasshopper predators, especially in early summer when they must gather high-protein food for their young. Many bug-eating birds like to hunt by watching for movement from a perch, so studding your garden with trellises, posts and other upright structures can help birds feed more efficiently.
Use Row Covers
The surest way to protect plants from hungry grasshoppers is to cover them with a barrier, such as a floating row cover or lightweight cloth. Be sure to hold the covers above plants with hoops or stakes, because grasshoppers are more likely to eat their way inside if leaves are pushing against the fabric. In west Texas and other areas where grasshoppers are especially bad, some gardeners make cones from aluminum screening to keep their plants safe from ’hoppers.
Feed Your Fowl
Chickens, ducks, guineas and other fowl eagerly snap up grasshoppers, but they can also damage garden plants. Ideally, you might let grassy pathways in your garden grow up a bit, and then move in a group of birds in a moveable pen.
Let Some Tall Grass Grow
Grasshoppers would rather live in a tall stand of grass and weeds than in your garden, so you may want to let a hedge of tall grass grow up near your garden’s edge in late summer. If you keep your garden weeded, grasshoppers will naturally gravitate toward the grassy patch.
Make Friends with Fungi
In some areas of the West and Midwest, grasshoppers are so damaging that biological warfare is worthwhile. A naturally occurring fungus, Nosema locustae, weakens and kills grasshoppers when they eat it. Sold as Nolo Bait and Semaspore, this method can help you reduce grasshopper populations at your place over time, making them much easier to manage. Earthworms and most beneficial insects are not harmed by Nosema locustae, but it is damaging to crickets and mantids (both are closely related to grasshoppers). Crickets are major consumers of weed seeds and mantids eat other bugs, so there is a bit of a trade-off here. But for gardeners who can’t walk through their gardens without being socked in the head by a flying grasshopper, Nosema locustae baits are a good choice.
Have you found any of the above strategies to be effective in grasshopper control? Do you have other ideas? Share your thoughts by posting a comment below.
2 weeks ago, we notices the larval stage crawling up in groups on the house while we were painting. I smashed them with my hand like a fly swatter. This morning I noticed bunches of the small larval stage congregating in groups of 5 or 6 on the leaf tips of my lilies which are planted on the same side of the house. I started trying to catch and squish. But I wasn’t doing well catching them. I went away for a while. When I returned, they were back in their groups once again. I clapped my hands together with the leaf and 5 – 7 small grasshoppers sandwiched inside. Success. I killed a total of 7 groups within a minute. Then I want to my sister’s house. They were all over her gardenia, and 2 new rose bushes, again in social clumps. The clapping continued to work, though some dropped down to the ground once I started clapping. I just made a round trip around the garden and they obliged in small groups again. It was trickier on the rose bushes. I didn’t want to smash a bloom. Nor did I want to spear my hands with a thorn. Patience and stealth allowed me to smash over 100 beasts with my clapping method. I must mention I’m retired and didn’t mind the time to do this at all. Imagine the ruin if they had all made it to adulthood. Smashing the adults is next to impossible. I wonder how long those youngsters continue to hatch.
After chasing the devils around by handpicking I found that a B B gun works great. They don’t move and you can get within inches and they don’t jump away
We have tried almost everything to control grasshoppers. We have lots of chickens and they help, but with the number of hoppers we have here, it would take a full brigade of hens working 24/7. Real problems getting any to work the night shift. Used the SemaSpore “bait” this year. Used more than enough, applied in the morning, twice, a few weeks apart. Even dug out an old “Whirlybird” to spread the stuff. Seems to have had more of steroidal effect, if anything. The grasshoppers are so bad here, that they even have killed Rocky Mountain Junipers. Hate to resort to insecticides, but do not know what else to do. Wait for “The Flood”?
Grasshopper control. You can’t hand pick them easily, but you can grab them with your pruners or scissors, cutting them or putting them under your foot and squishing them. For some reason they don’t see the tool coming, like they do with your hand. When they try to hide you can use your opposite hand to move them back into range. I don’t know if I am making much of a difference in their population, but it gives me some satisfaction! It seems like their numbers are fewer.
Last year was my first attempt at vegetable gardening. Not surprisingly, it was also the first year I began seeing grasshoppers in my yard. I had no idea they were so damaging to my plants until researching online. Though I do not have enough space to keep chickens, I have another idea for an animal to help manage the grasshopper population: cats! My mostly-outdoor cat seems to enjoy trapping those little critters immensely. Imagine my surprise when I came upon him on several occasions “playing” with them. Gross, but I guess that’s nature’s way.
I live in the Red River valley and have used the nolo bait. If used properly,by the exact directions, I did not have a problem with grasshoppers for the next six years. This year is the first time since we did the application I have seen a grasshoppper. Next year I will re-apply the nolo bait.
I also had turkeys running around (though mine did do dust baths). They mostly left the garden veggies alone (loved watching them walk through picking off potato beetles!). Down the road about 1/2 mile there were hoppers ALL over the place, but very few here. Added bonus, they cleaned up apples that fell from the tree. These are a soft apple that bruises easily, so apples that fall are pretty damaged. With the turkeys cleaning them up, there were very few yellow jackets in the yard. Haven’t been able to let them roam this year, a fox family moved in and a neighbors dog proved that it likes killing my poultry.
Turkeys are great at grasshopper control and they don’t scratch like the chickens do. They also aren’t as destructive to the garden as some other birds (can’t fly over the fence as well as chickens and don’t take as many dust baths). Peacocks work too. I also rimmed one side of our property with the grasshopper plague stuff the article mentions and that side is mostly free of grasshoppers even a year later. We still have hoppers but not as bad as before.
Debbie, You say the grasshoppers don’t touch your “tomatoes, pickling cucumbers and yellow squash.” Go non-conventional and try a variation of the Three Sisters (or Milpa). In the corn, bean and squash combination of Milpa, the squash’s role is to keep predators away. ( Background info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three_Sisters_(agriculture) ) Maybe you could interlace your “tomatoes, pickling cucumbers and yellow squash” with companion plants and they could help preserve the garden. Also, many good companion plants are herbs which repel bugs. Here’s a good article on companion plants: http://www.ghorganics.com/page2.html Best of luck!
eat em. not you, the pets. . usually the will NOT like soap taste, so start spraying small amunts of soapy water on the plants. not detergent, use something like peppermint soap that trader joe sells. the guys in escondido, with all the weird writing on the bottle, sells good stuff too, but it’s about 2x more costly. some kind of trade thing with some foreign country. my foreign country to support is the grandkids. so i go for the cheaper one.
I have been dealing with hundreds of grasshoppers for the past 3 years. I have done everything listed in this article, but have still lost most of my garden. The row covers only work on the non-flowering plants. The only things they don’t seem to bother are the tomatoes, pickling cucumbers and yellow squash but they do damage the ripe fruit. I hope someone out there has more ideas. I am at my wits end.
What about using “Diatomaceous Earth”? I’ve heard that it works well for control of ants, spiders and slugs yet is relatively harmless to birds and mammals.
Those are great tips we are planning to move to Arizona soon and there is a huge grasshopper population there but I have already gotten plans to raise chickens out there and it is a great idea.