How to Treat Bathroom Mold Before Painting, Home Guides, SF Gate

How to Treat Bathroom Mold Before Painting

How to Treat Bathroom Mold Before Painting

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People have been told for years to use bleach on mold in the belief that it has fungicidal properties, but recent information says it doesn’t. Bleach will clean off mold stains, but no more. Another household cleaner — sodium borate, or borax — does kill mold and gets the job done without toxic fumes. Your triple challenge in repainting a moldy bathroom is to kill all the mold you can reach, encapsulate the rest in a mold-inhibiting primer and prevent future mold problems by addressing issues that cause excess moisture in the room. Mold spores are microscopic, and when released by mold communities on your walls, float invisibly in the air and eventually settle on every surface in the room.

Replace your bathroom exhaust fan with a better one if your fan has not been providing adequate ventilation. Older homes are often equipped with minimal fans that don’t move the cubic feet of air needed to remove moisture quickly and efficiently. Keep the fan running while cleaning and painting the bathroom.

Remove items attached to the bathroom walls, such as towel racks, shelves and toilet paper holder.

Repair leaky plumbing that could be causing excessive moisture in the room. Moisture drives mold growth. Because you have existing mold and mold spores, mold will immediately reinfect the new paint if it is allowed to get out of control again.

Wash all bathroom surfaces — floors, ceilings, walls and fixtures — in a solution of 1 cup of borax to a gallon of water. Agitate the water to get all the borax dissolved and wash down everything you can reach to gain control of mold and mold spores in the room. Work with the exhaust fan on, but don’t use an auxiliary fan, such a box fan. A fan that continually agitates the air will keep spores stirred up instead of settled on the areas you are cleaning. If it isn’t too windy out, open the window as well. Wear rubber gloves while you do this, as sodium borate can irritate skin.

Pay extra attention to scrubbing visible mold spots and clean gently inside of wall cavities if you can reach them. Finally, turn the exhaust fan off and wipe down the fan well and blades. The goal is to kill mold in the whole room to keep it from reinfecting your new paint. Turn the fan back on and leave it on until the washed surfaces are dry.

Make any wall repairs needed. Fill in nail holes and dents with spackling compound and smooth it over with a damp — not wet — rag.

Sand the walls lightly with medium-grit sandpaper, brush them off with a dry cloth and vacuum up all residue. Dust and sanding debris will mar your wet paint. Don’t sand so hard that you cut into the paper on drywall. The idea is just to knock off existing loose paint and make a slightly rough bed for the new primer and paint to hold onto.

Mask off areas adjacent to the walls you plan to paint with painter’s tape.

Shake up or stir your mold-sealing primer and pour some into the the paint pan. As mold awareness has grown, most paint companies offer some form of mold-sealing primer, so you should have no trouble locating a product you can use to seal off the old infection.

Roll the paint roller in the primer and apply it generously to the walls. Pay particular attention to the areas that showed previous mold stains. Work with the exhaust fan on to keep paint fumes from building up in the room. Use the paintbrush to ensure good coverage in corners and inside any wall cavities you can reach.

Allow the primer to dry for the full time recommended by the manufacturer and check the walls for bleed-through by mold stains. If there is any bleed-through, apply a second coat. Let primer dry completely before you apply paint.

homeguides.sfgate.com

How I Stopped Bathroom Condensation for Good!

Bathroom condensation is one of those things we just put up with because there’s nothing we can do about it, right?

You just accept that you’ll have to wipe the bathroom mirror in order to see yourself and you just put up with that black mould that seems to endlessly come back no matter how often you clean it away.

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So you might be surprised to know that I had all those issues in my bathroom and I managed to stop it completely!

So no more mould, no steamed up mirror and no more water dripping down the walls.

First things first, if you’re not entirely sure what causes bathroom condensation read this article first and then come back. If you’re happy that you understand the ins and outs of condensation then keep reading.

What was my bathroom condensation problem?

My condensation issues are certainly not unique but they are exacerbated by the fact that I live in an old house with solid walls (so no insulation). That means the surface temperature of the walls is much colder than say an insulated cavity wall (or even and uninsulated cavity wall).

Because the surface of the walls are so cold, condensation forms quickly and like most people nowadays I make the issue worse as I tend to use the shower more than the bath, which creates a lot of steam (water vapour).

My shower is typical of the many in that it’s open at the top, so the bathroom quickly fills with water vapour, which in turn condenses when it comes into contact with the cold walls. Nothing unusual there!

Now I know what you’re probably thinking…

“Surely you’ll get condensation in the bathroom no matter what type of walls you have?”

. and you’re right. Once the humidity level in the bathroom gets to 100% it doesn’t matter what the wall temperature is, you’ll get condensation.

But if you can keep your walls, and the air in the bathroom, warm, then the air will be capable of holding more moisture before it gets to 100% humidity, so you do have a chance of avoiding, or at least reducing your condensation levels.

At this point I could get bogged down in the various elements at play such as the effect of relative humidity and air pressure etc. but you’re here to find out how I stopped my condensation and I think it’d just confuse the issue. Instead I’ll just say that if you can make your walls warmer that will help reduce the risk of condensation occurring.

In summary; my condensation issue is exacerbated by the fact that my walls are cold and my shower pumps out lots of water vapour into the bathroom.

The Issues and Options:

  • Cold walls — there isn’t a lot I can do to warm the bathroom walls without going to the expense of installing either external or internal insulation. Both of which would have cost way to much to install, so they were a non starter.

Extractor fan — most homes have pretty basic extractor fans that simply struggle to remove the water vapour quickly enough to make any real difference. So I had the option to replace this with a more powerful extractor fan or a humidity sensing extractor fan.

  • Shower — initially I figured that there wasn’t a lot I could do with the shower short of buying a new totally enclosed shower cubicle (with a closed in ceiling). But that was ruled out because of the expense and the fact that I don’t see the point of throwing away a perfectly serviceable shower enclosure.
  • Initially I spent a lot of time thinking about the problem and the various options for stopping my bathroom condensation issues:

      Shower Cubicle — a new enclosed shower cubicle was an option but that would be expensive and I wasn’t convinced it would work. It would certainly stop the water vapour getting out of the cubicle while I was in the shower but when I open the door to get in or out all the water vapour would escape into the bathroom.

    I even looked at different ‘domed’ tops that you can buy to seal in your shower but they presented the same problem as above.

    Extractor fan — the extractor fan was an easy first option to try but the original extractor fan was at the opposite end of the bathroom to the shower. So I relocated a new humidity sensing extractor fan directly above the existing shower cubicle. That way it would detect the humidity quickly and remove the water vapour directly from the source rather than pulling it across the entire bathroom.

    Another reason for placing the new extractor fan above the shower was because I figured if it didn’t work as well as I hoped I could then try to enclose the shower cubicle and use the extractor fan to take the water vapour from inside the upgraded enclosed shower unit.

    The Results.

    The new humidity sensing extractor fan located above the standard shower cubicle did make a noticeable difference to the bathroom condensation levels.

    It probably reduced my condensation problems by around 40% (If I had insulated cavity walls that might have been enough to cure the problem but with my cold walls the condensation was still running down the walls next to the shower cubicle as this is an external wall, so it’s one of the colder walls in the bathroom.

    While I was happy that I’d managed to reduce the problem I needed to do more.

    So I had a think, drew up a list of things I’d need and hit the internet to buy the raw materials to extend my quadrant shower right up to the ceiling.

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    After a lot of measuring, some bruised knuckles, a few expletives and several failed prototypes (it turns out there are more problem areas that needed to be addressed than I had initially thought) I had managed to create an extension to the top of the shower quadrant. This created a totally enclosed shower with an inbuilt humidity sensing extractor fan.

    I also wanted a solution that looked professional rather than a botched together DIY item.

    … It actually worked, and what’s more, it worked really well.

    Now that I’ve contained my bathroom condensation I can take a shower and when I get out the bathroom mirror is totally clear and no visible condensation on any walls. The brick walls slowly dried out (over around 12 months) and as they did the room got warmer and easier to heat (wet walls are much colder and harder to heat than dry walls).

    In summary the only meaningful way I found to deal with bathroom condensation, especially if you live in an old house or a house with uninsulated or cold walls is to try and contain the water vapour and then use a good quality extractor fan (ideally a humidity sensing one) to take that water vapour out of the room efficiently.

    The benefit of the humidity sensing fan I chose to install is it runs at a low level (15 litres per second) all the time to ventilate the bathroom. Then as soon as it detects water vapour it ramps up to a high level of extraction (either 35 or 60 litres per second depending on the humidity level) for as long as required before reducing back down to a minimum level once it detects the humidity levels have returned to normal.

    www.eco-home-essentials.co.uk

    How to get rid of gnats in bathroom?

    Gnats in Bathroom: This is the second largest source for gnats to multiply and increase the population with all the necessary conditions required to breed.

    Why do I have gnats in bathroom

    The main reason to see gnats and drain flies in bathroom is the moisture and dampness around your bathtub and shower screen. Gnats required dampness and moisture to breed and multiply.

    Things to consider and correct in your bathroom

    • Check around the bath tub or underneath it to see whether any water is stagnating or that area is damp, if so that is the best and optimum place for the gnats to breed and multiply.

    5 Things to get rid of gnats in bathroom easily

    The below 5 products will help you to get rid of gnats in your bathroom.

    Mosquito & Gnat Barrier Covers 5,000 Square Feet

    Kills Insects Listed on contact. Lasts up to 4 weeks repelling annoying insects.

    Contains residual insecticide called permethrin that provides up to four weeks repelling power.

    Besides Gnat, It also controls a wide variety of insects including mosquitoes, ants, fleas, ticks and more.

    Spray outdoor insect resting areas, pet areas and quarters.Use Gnat Barrier and Reduce the chance for Lyme disease and heartworm disease.

    It is packaged in a convenient Hose End Sprayer Spray fences, decking, vegetation and other surfaces. Covers 5,000 sq.ft

    Bio-clean Drain Septic Bacteria for bathroom gnats

    The bacteria used in Bio-Clean is grown in incubators and then dried and mixed with enzymes and other helpers.

    These biological bacteria lie dormant until they are mixed with water, and then it is hungry and active in about 30 minutes.

    Each piece of bacteria eats its own weight in waste in about one minute, but they also multiply.

    Bio-Clean is completely safe for use in your sewer system.It is approved by the EPA in all 50 states.

    Bio-clean drain cleaner is made with 100% All Natural Bacteria Enzymes. The only bio product to use in Septic Tanks to get rid of gnats in bath room​

    Charcoal Bag Moisture Absorber& Air Freshener

    All Natural Bamboo Charcoal Bag Moisture Absorber& Air Freshener and Closet Deodorizer Best for Home Bathroom Refrigerator Luggage Car — Shoe Odor Absorber — Pet Odors Eliminator & Remover

    Made up of odorless 100% natural non toxic air purifying bags.

    Very EFFECTIVE, more CONVENIENT, EASY TO USE and WAY CHEAPER long term bad smells remover.

    To Rejuvenate just place the bags outside in the sun once a month for about an hour or so.

    Safe to place on any surface or material. Great for cars, closets, bathrooms, pet areas, etc.

    Portable Dehumidifier with 500ml/day Dehumidification 1.5L Water Tank for Bathroom

    Very Quiet Operation in nature due to no Moving Parts. Noise is lower than 35DB.

    Dehumidification volume is up to 17 OZ/day with 50 OZ Water Tank. Automatically Turns off when water tank is full.

    Features with high advanced thermoelectric technology and tried & true construction, which guarantees maximum performance & longevity.

    Built-in grip, this portable handy dehumidifier is highly flexible in application, such as bathroom, kitchen, and closet.

    No Pest Strip Unscented Hanging Vapor Insect Repellent

    Use No Pest strip and Keep bugs where they belong: out of your home.

    This Hot Shot unscented hanging insect repellent kills flying and crawling insects with a penetrating, odorless vapor.

    Just hang or stand the strip up in attics, garages, storage areas and other spaces, including boats, RVs, and cabins (when not in use).

    One unit will treat a 10 by 13 foot room with an 8-foot ceiling for up to 4 months.

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    Note : Do not use the strip around edibles

    Alternate ways to get rid of gnats in bathroom

    There are alternate ways to keep the gnats away from the bathroom. Below are the additional or alternate ways. When combined with above products it is very effective.

    Baking soda Paste that kills gnat in bathroom

    This is a homemade paste that can be done easily at home using baking soda. Things required for are a big bowl, baking soda and water. Put baking soda in the bowl and add less water into it. Mix baking soda and water to a paste consistency without any lumps.

    Now your baking soda paste is ready to kill gnats, wear your plastic gloves and apply this baking soda paste in the bathtub as much as to create a thick coating layer.

    Let the baking soda coating layer be there for 5 minutes, when you see the paste is getting dry turn on the shower and wash you bath tub with usual rubbing brush. After that turn on hot water to cleanse it properly to remove any residual gnat eggs left.

    Do not allow your kids to come near you when you are applying baking soda paste, as it may create allergy to the kids

    Finger nail polish that kills gnats

    Sometimes the homemade gnat traps may not be able to kill gnats. You can use finger nail polish remover liquid technique to kill them all. When you are sure that these gnats are coming from the drains, we need to have one see through drinking glass stick the cotton inside the glass using some glue.

    On the top of cotton put nail polish remover liquid and cover it. When the gnats come out the drain it will be attracted to the scent of finger nail polish and once they contact the cotton they will die. Do this for few nights, you will not see gnats in your home.

    Pouring Bleach and Hot water

    Gnats usually not hang around hygienic area, having said so the best place for gnats is your water drains. Pour bleaching powder into the drain generously and allow the bleach to settle for a while to kill all gnats as well as to destroy the eggs.

    When you apply bleaching powder or ammonia the eggs cannot hatch. After 30 minutes pour very hot water to kill the remaining eggs as well as to wash the bleach powder.

    Hair Spray to kill Gnats

    You can use hairspray to kill small gnats by spraying over them when you see them coming through the drains. Any cheap hair spray is ok to kill these small gnats.

    Bug Bombs to get rid of gnats

    Probably the easiest way to get rid of gnats is to use bug bomb. These bug bombs are available literally in any grocery shop. You can also buy Bug Bomb from here.

    This bug bomb usually comes in packs of three. You will be needing only need one for the bathroom (you save the other two for later use).

    Bug bombs work astonishingly and it worked for us several times. Stop going to the bathroom for about 4 -5 hours and turn on the exhaust fan when you enter the bath. You can see all the bugs are gone.

    Grandma’s Technique to get rid of gnats in bathroom

    This is an advice provided by one of my friend’s grandma on how to kill. She has lots of knowledge in getting rid of gnats from your bath room.

    Again, this might not be new to somebody as you would have heard from others. To execute this method we need a gallon of ammonia and Steaming hot water.

    When you are doing this, you will need to open all the windows and doors of bathroom and cover your face and eyes properly as ammonia is toxic. Pour 2-3 cups of ammonia directly to bathtub drain directly and wait for 5 minutes the pour hot water over it. Any flies or gnats contacted to the ammonia will not be able to mate.

    Now that you cleaned your bathtub and its drain. It’s time to clean the toilet power 3 more cups into the toilet and use toilet brush to rub the inner sides of the toilet using ammonia and water. Leave if for 5 minutes and flush the water.

    Also, sprinkle 2-3 spoon of ammonia round the base of toilet and rub it using the scrubber. Pour hot water after 2-3 minutes this kill any gnat eggs around the toilet base.

    Now the important step is to wipeout the toilet and bathtub with dry cloth to remove the moisture and dampness

    Believe it or not, it works perfectly like a charm.

    Dear Visitors, We have researched and written the best suitable methods above. If you have any other methods on how to get rid of gnats in bathroom please use the comment box to describe it. We will update it in the above article.

    www.iremovepest.com

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