Marigold Plants And Pests: How Do Marigolds Help A Garden

Using Marigolds Around Plants – Do Marigolds Keep Bugs Away

How do marigolds help a garden? Scientists have discovered that using marigolds around plants such as roses, strawberries, potatoesand tomatoesdeters root knot nematodes, tiny worms that live in the soil. Although it hasn’t been proven, many long-time gardeners claim that marigolds also control pests like tomato hornworms, cabbageworms, thrips, squash bugs, whitefliesand others.

Do marigolds keep bugs away? The best way to find out is to experiment in your own garden, and you really can’t go wrong. Marigoldsare beautiful, and there’s no doubt that they attract a variety of beneficial insects that prey on bad bugs, which is a very positive attribute indeed! Read on to learn more about marigold plants and pests.

How Do Marigolds Keep Bugs Away?

Research indicates that marigold plant roots produce toxic chemicals that kill root knot nematodes, as well as other harmful nematodes that feed on plant roots. When it comes to using marigolds for pest control, French marigolds have proven to be most effective. Plow the marigolds into the soil at the end of the growing season to provide even more control of nematodes.

Although there is plenty of evidence to support the claim that marigolds help control nematodes, there is no scientific proof as of yet that marigolds control other garden pests. However, as noted above, many gardeners are convinced that using marigolds around plants is a very good gardening practice. Why? Apparently, it’s the pungent scent of marigolds that keep pests at bay.

Planting Marigolds for Pest Control

Plant marigolds generously for control of pests around vegetables and ornamental plants. Arrange the marigolds any way you like. For example, plant marigolds around the perimeter of the garden, in rows between rows of vegetables, or in groupings.

Be sure the marigolds are scented, however, as many newer, hybrid varieties don’t have as much of the familiar marigold aroma.

7 Flower Garden Pests That Can Ruin Your Hard Work

No one likes to find their flower gardening efforts thwarted by hungry insects intent on making a meal of prize specimens. However, some insect pests do more than just snack on our plants; they can introduce fungi and other diseases that can sound the death knell for our favorite flowers.


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Gardeners everywhere curse the presence of tiny aphids on rose, honeysuckle, and other flowering foliage growth tips in the springtime. The sucking action of these insect pests causes stunted growth and deformed leaves and flowers. However, aphids bring more havoc to the flower garden by transmitting plant viruses and fostering the growth of black sooty mold fungus.

Start your aphid battle the natural way:

  • Plant sweet alyssum in the flower garden to draw beneficial wasps.
  • Include cosmos to attract hungry lacewings, and add penstemon or yarrow to attract ladybugs.
  • Insect soap and a strong blast of water will take care of heavy infestations.
  • Encourage ladybugs in your garden. A single ladybug can eat as many as 5,000 aphids in its one-year lifespan and larvae eat hundreds before they pupate.


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Borers are an insidious pest, destroying your flowering plants from the inside out.

The worst borer in the flower garden is the iris borer, which will tunnel through an entire iris rhizome, leaving bacterial rot in its wake. You should be suspicious if you notice sawdust material around the base of your irises or ragged leaf margins. Pinprick holes in the leaves of iris are the signs of tiny caterpillars that have infiltrated the leaves and are making their way down into the rhizomes.

  • Discourage borers by removing iris leaves in the fall, which provide a host for borer moth eggs.
  • In the spring, you can apply the systemic pesticide Merit or the nontoxic spray Garden Shield.
  • The best non-toxic control is to dig up affected plants after flowering is done, trim out the rotten rhizomes, and replant the good portions.


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Only about an eighth of an inch long, leafhopper insects look innocuous enough. The green insects don’t congregate in large numbers on plants and hop away when you approach. However, what you won’t notice is the toxin these hungry pests inject every time they insert their mouthparts into the underside of your flower’s foliage. This allows the damage to travel beyond the chewed part of the leaf, showing up as distorted leaf tips and edges. The insects also spread the aster yellows virus.

  • Remove debris from the garden at the end of the season to eliminate overwintering sites.
  • Use floating row covers to prevent leafhoppers from reaching your plants.
  • Blast leafhopper nymphs from plants with a strong jet of water.
  • Spray adults with insect soap, pyrethrin, or Sevin.
  • Keep dandelion and thistle weeds away from the flower garden, as they provide cover for leafhoppers.
  • Encourage beneficial insects, such as ladybugs, lacewings, and pirate bugs, which all prey on the eggs and larvae of leafhoppers.


Wolfgang H. Wögerer / Wikimedia Commons / CC by 3.0

Mealybugs don’t draw much attention, as the pests are only 3/16 inch long and move very slowly. The honeydew they excrete supports sooty mold growth. When enough sooty mold accumulates on foliage, it can reduce photosynthesis, weakening the plant and making it even more susceptible to garden pests.

If you notice white fuzzy growths on your plants, you may have mealybugs. Ways to control mealybugs include:

  • Avoid overwatering and overfertilizing since mealybugs are attracted to new growth and plants with high levels of nitrogen.
  • Dip a cotton swab in rubbing alcohol and touch it to the pests to desiccate and kill them instantly.
  • You can also spray the pests away with water, or apply Malathion or Orthene pesticide sprays.
  • Use insecticidal soap or neem oil as repellants; these products do not harm honeybees and other beneficial insects.
  • Encourage beneficial insects, such as ladybugs and lacewings, which are predators of mealybugs.

Plant Bugs

USGS Native Bee Inventory and Monitoring Program / Wikimedia Commons / Public Domain

«Plant bugs» is a term that includes a number of true bugs, members of the Hemiptera order of insects. The most common plant bugs of interest to gardeners are cinch bugs, harlequin bugs, and squash bugs.

Like leafhoppers, plant bugs inject a toxin into your plants’ leaves, buds, and shoots as they feed. The result is a plant mottled with brown or black spots and deformed growth. Dahlias, azaleas, daisies, Liatris, and asters are just a few of the flowering plants these bugs commonly feast upon. Gardeners should be on the lookout for tarnished plant bugs and four-lined plant bugs, growing up to a 1/4 inch long. Plant bugs often have an unpleasant odor.

  • Plant bugs are fast moving pests, but you can pluck them off and drop them into a bucket of soapy water if you’re an early riser, as the bugs are sluggish in the morning.
  • Spraying young bugs with neem oil or insecticidal soap will offer some control for most plant bugs.
  • Protecting edible crops with floating row covers will prevent plant bugs from damaging your vegetables.
  • Plant bugs can be killed by spraying your plants with neem, Sevin, or diazinon. Use sparingly, as these chemicals will also kill beneficial insects.
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Giles San Martin / Wikimedia Commons / CC by 2.0

At first glance, scale insects may not even seem alive. The waxy covering that serves as a protective shield on the bugs makes them resemble lichen or other natural growths on their host plants. The scale insect under this waxy covering is very much alive, though, feeding on garden plants throughout the entire growing season and on houseplants throughout the year. Damage appears as stunted growth, leaf drop, yellow spots on leaves, and sooty mold growth that thrives on the scale’s honeydew.

Parasitic wasps love to use scale insects as hosts, and you may see evidence of this as tiny holes piercing the scale’s armor. This same armor makes scale resistant to many pesticides, but dormant oil can suffocate the insects during the winter season.

To control scale:

  • Dispose of affected branches and leaves, which harbor the insects.
  • Pick off the insects by hand—a viable solution if the numbers are low.
  • Dab individual insects with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol.
  • Encourage beneficial insects such as ladybugs and lacewings, which feed on scale insects.
  • Use insecticidal soap or oils to coat scale. This will require repeated applications but is very safe for the environment.
  • Apply neem oil to affected plants. A concentrated form of neem oil, azadirachtin, is a very effective control.
  • If chemicals are needed, those containing acephate or imidacloprid are effective as systemic pesticides.


Scot Nelson / Flickr / Public Domain

Upon disturbance, whiteflies flutter about their host plants like an ephemeral cloud, but their damage is formidable. This is another honeydew-secreting pest, encouraging sooty mold while simultaneously leaving plants yellow and stunted after sucking on plant juices. Some whiteflies also carry plant viruses. Whiteflies are the bane of greenhouse growers, who detect their presence with yellow sticky traps. Whiteflies can be controlled in a number of ways:

9 Best Flowers for the Vegetable Garden

Edible Flowers, Cutting Flowers, and Flowers to Deter Pests

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Introducing flowers to a vegetable garden is full of perks beyond simply adding beauty. Flowers can be used in companion planting to help deter pests and attract beneficial insects, such as pollinators. Interplanting also saves space and time, as you can grow and tend to more of your plants in one place.

Even without companion benefits, the vegetable garden is a lovely place to plant flowers intended for cutting. You can snip them as you’re selecting vegetables for dinner. Here are nine of the best flowers to add a new dimension to your vegetable garden.

Borage (Borago officinalis)

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Borage grows into a wide, gangly plant that is lovely in a cottage garden, though it can be somewhat messy in more formal borders. It is an herb that is right at home in a vegetable garden. The flowers are a beacon for bees and a delight for gardeners. Both its leaves and flowers are edible with a subtle cucumber flavor. The plant is fast growing and can be directly sown in the ground. After that, it tends to reseed itself.

Some flowers are pink, and some are blue. Light, temperature, and other external conditions can cause this color variation. One theory is the color changes from pink to blue as the flowers age and lose their pollen. Presumably, the blue color tells pollinators the flower is no longer worth their effort. Pulmonaria, which is in the same family, does this with its flowers.

  • USDA Growing Zones: N/A (annual plant)
  • Color Varieties: Blue, pink
  • Sun Exposure: Full sun to part sun
  • Soil Needs: Rich, moist, well-draining

Pot Marigold (Calendula officinalis)

Calendula, or pot marigolds, are part of the daisy family and are not related to marigolds of the genus Tagetes. Pot marigolds are considered an edible flower, though they have a predominately bitter flavor. It is their brilliant orange color that livens up a plate.

In the garden, calendula is a mixed blessing. It repels some pests, such as asparagus beetles, and tomato hornworms. But it also attracts a few others, including aphids. Do not let that deter you. You can use the flower as a trap crop, putting it on the other side of the vegetable garden from plants aphids often attack, such as peas.

  • USDA Growing Zones: 9 to 11
  • Color Varieties: Yellow, orange, pink, cream
  • Sun Exposure: Full sun to part shade
  • Soil Needs: Rich, slightly acidic to neutral, well-draining

Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus)

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Few flowers grow as easily and bloom as profusely as cosmos. And those blooms can be put to practical use in the vegetable garden, as they attract many helpful insects. For instance, if you want to draw in green lacewings, choose a white or bright orange variety, such as ‘Cosmic Orange’.

Green lacewings are voracious eaters, vacuuming up all sorts of soft-bodied insects, including aphids, scale, and thrips. Thus, they are considered a beneficial insect, and making them at home in your vegetable garden will help to prevent pest problems.

  • USDA Growing Zones: 9 to 11
  • Color Varieties: Pink, purple, red, yellow, orange, white
  • Sun Exposure: Full sun
  • Soil Needs: Average, moderate moisture, well-draining

Lavender (Lavandula sp.)

It’s not difficult to find a reason to plant some lavender. In addition to its beautiful blooms and much-loved fragrance, the herb can be used to repel several common vegetable garden pests.

Deer tend to avoid it, along with many insects, including ticks. Of course, having lavender around doesn’t guarantee a tick won’t bite you, but it should cut down on the number of ticks in the area. In addition, moths—including those pesky green cabbage moths—also find the scent offensive. Even mice typically find somewhere else to snack.

  • USDA Growing Zones: 5 to 9
  • Color Varieties: Purple, violet-blue, rose, pale pink, white, yellow
  • Sun Exposure: Full sun
  • Soil Needs: Lean, alkaline, well-draining

Marigold (Tagetes sp.)

Marigolds do not get the respect they deserve. They deter pests both above and below the ground, and they look great doing it. Ring your garden with marigold plants, and rabbits will think twice before crossing the line. Plus, confuse Mexican bean beetles by interplanting marigolds with bean plants in your vegetable garden.

Marigolds also have been credited with repelling squash bugs, thrips, tomato hornworms, and whiteflies. Some even exude a chemical that kills root nematodes in the soil. However, if nematodes are a problem, you will need to leave the marigold roots in the soil at the end of the season.

  • USDA Growing Zones: 9 to 11
  • Color Varieties: Red, orange, yellow, gold
  • Sun Exposure: Full sun
  • Soil Needs: Average, medium moisture, well-draining

Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus)

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Cheerful nasturtiums prefer cooler temperatures and continue blooming well into the fall. Nasturtiums offer some protection from squash bugs and beetles. They also are favored by aphids and make a great trap crop. But they are one of the more delicious edible flowers (and leaves), so do not sacrifice them all to the insects.

The seeds are large and easy to collect for replanting next season. Many varieties will seed on their own. Plant the seeds after scarifying them first (nicking them or rubbing them with sandpaper) to help their germination. Or you can try turning them into nasturtium capers.

  • USDA Growing Zones: N/A (annual plant)
  • Color Varieties: Red, orange, yellow, cream
  • Sun Exposure: Full sun to part shade
  • Soil Needs: Poor to average, slightly acidic, well-draining

Sunflower (Helianthus annuus)

Sunflowers are a perfect flower for the vegetable garden. They make great trellises for climbing plants, and they have lots of nectar to attract pollinators.

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Unfortunately, sunflowers also tend to attract squirrels, which can be a problem if you are growing them to save the seeds. However, a coarse-leaved vegetable, such as squash, planted beneath the sunflowers can go a long way to deter animals.​

  • USDA Growing Zones: N/A (annual plant)
  • Color Varieties: Yellow, red, burgundy, chocolate
  • Sun Exposure: Full sun
  • Soil Needs: Average, moist, well-draining

Sweet Pea (Lathyrus odoratus)

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Sweet peas are not edible for humans (the seeds are poisonous), but many other creatures find them delicious. So if you have difficulty keeping them in your flower garden, planting them in a protected vegetable garden is an alternative.

Growing sweet peas with tall, edible peas and pole beans is a way to squeeze them into the garden and get the benefit of attracting more pollinators to your beans. They will not cross-pollinate with the edible peas, as they belong to different genera.

  • USDA Growing Zones: N/A (annual plant)
  • Color Varieties: Red, pink, blue, purple, white
  • Sun Exposure: Full sun
  • Soil Needs: Humusy, medium moisture, well-draining

Zinnia (Zinnia elegans)

Nectar-rich zinnia flowers are magnets for bees and other pollinators. They are also popular with hummingbirds. The paler, pastel varieties seem to be attractive to Japanese beetles and can be used as a trap crop. On the other hand, you might not want to plant anything that attracts Japanese beetles unless you already have a problem you’re trying to solve.

Moreover, planting zinnia flowers in the vegetable garden gives you the opportunity to use them as cut flowers without having to worry about the gaps left behind from your cuttings. Gaps are expected in a vegetable garden as you harvest your crops.

5 Flowers to Plant for Natural Pest Control

There’s a very beautiful thing about Mother Nature that happens when we don’t stuff her with too much gunk: Plants grow and animals live in harmony. Yes, it sounds like a children’s book written in the 1970s, but it’s also a notion that many an organic gardener are getting wise to these days.

Companion planting, a practice used by organic and biodynamic gardeners, is the term given when one plants certain types of plants near each other because they are mutually beneficial. In the case of growing food in a garden plot, there are a number of flowers you can plant for natural pest control. Toss out the pesticides (or wait, maybe you should contact the EPA to find out how to properly dispose of that toxic waste) and instead plant some attractive and aromatic flowers. Ah, that’s biodynamic gardening for you.


What it is: Commonly grown and used for culinary purposes in Britain, borage is an herb still not well known in America. This annual produces star-shaped flowers and is wonderful used in herbal teas, tinctures and leafy green recipes.

What it’s good for: Borage deters hornworms and cabbage worms and can help all plants increase their disease resistance.


What it is: These beautiful flowers are quite common in flower arrangements, as they come in a wide spectrum of colors.

What it’s good for Chrysanthemums contain a chemical called pyrethin that’s toxic to insects but safe for human and animal consumption. Aside from planting these colorful flowers around your garden bed, you can also make a tea from the flowers and use it on root nematodes and to repel Japanese beetles.


What it is: This common soil cover grows as grass does, providing a thin, cohesive layer of green over the soil. There are over 300 varieties of clover to choose from, but the most popular is marked by small green clovers with tiny pink flowers.

What it’s good for: Clover has been known to ward off pests completely when used as ground cover in garden beds. Plant it around cabbage to prevent cabbageworm and aphids from taking hold.


What it is: Known for its delicate, violet leaves and pleasing aroma, lavender is used in everything from potpourri to tea and baked goods to frosting.

What it’s good for: Lavender not only repels pests in your garden, it also smells (and looks) heavenly. It’s used to repel most insects you’d want to keep out of the garden, particularly fleas, moths and mosquitoes.


What it is: Marigolds are a popular garden flower as they are cheap to obtain and contain vibrant orange hues.

What it’s good for: Plant the scented varieties of marigolds to deter pests. The French Marigold variety is recommended for keeping whiteflies away from tomatoes, and they protect the health of the soil under the plants.

Do marigolds keep pests away or are they just pretty?

A look at the whether or not marigolds live up to claims that they are the workhorses of biological pest control.

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Visitors to my garden frequently comment, upon seeing a few marigold plants growing in my vegetable beds, that I must have planted them for pest control.

After all, marigolds are supposed to be one of the workhorses of biological pest control. Plant them and plant pests will be killed or — if they are lucky — merely repelled, right? It’s an appealing concept: sunny plants that thwart pestilence and blight even as they brighten your garden with blossoms.

How marigolds are pest unfriendly

Marigolds’ greatest claim to pest control fame is their effect, documented in numerous studies, on nematodes, which are a kind of worm that in some cases is destructive to plants.

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Like other members of the daisy family, marigolds also do their share in feeding nectar to beneficial insects, such as syrphid flies, who prey on aphids and other insects that attack garden plants. Members of the daisy family do not yield nearly as much nectar as flowers of the parsley family — dill, for instance — but daisy family flowers keep the nectar flowing longer.

Other beneficial effects of marigolds are less dramatic or useful. They have been shown to have some slight effect in repelling cabbage worms from cabbage and their kin. And some marigolds, especially a variety called Stinking Roger, repel flies, except that the flies are the kind that bother cows and other domestic animals, not plants.

Read and listen to claims made for marigolds, and you also could press it into service as a fungus killer, an insect killer, even a selective weed killer.

Weigh pros and cons

Hold on a second, however, before you blanket your garden in marigolds. Some of these claims have been blown out of proportion.

Those marigolds that helped repel cabbage worms: They also stole water and nutrients from nearby cabbages. So which is better? Stunted cabbages, or those with some leaves lacy from caterpillar feeding?

Marigolds, especially the Gem varieties, also are a favorite food of slimy slugs and Japanese beetles. As such, they have been used to stop Japanese beetle damage — by attracting the beetles away from other garden plants. Of course, such schemes commonly backfire by attracting more pests to the area than would have been there otherwise.

And now, for some marigold reality

If you really want their pest-controlling benefits, blanket your garden with oodles of marigolds. British studies showed that African marigolds killed weeds such as ground ivy and bindweed, but the marigolds were planted densely and early in the season, then allowed to grow 5 feet tall. Might not any tall, dense growth do the same?

Similarly, marigolds suppress nematodes only when the marigolds are grown as a cover crop, that is, planted thickly and allowed to grow for many weeks.

To sum up, marigolds seem to have little actual benefit in suppressing disease and above ground insect pests, except perhaps to woo certain insects away from other plants. Be wary of such claims as, “I planted marigolds in my bean patch and did not have any beetles to speak of, while my neighbor’s bean plants were devoured by Mexican bean beetles.” Was this gardener growing the same bean variety as the neighbor? Were soil conditions the same? Did he or she perhaps forget about the insecticide also applied? It happens.

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Below ground, marigolds do have some benefit — on nematodes, at least. However, you have to plant masses of marigolds to get this benefit and anyway, not every garden has nematode problems.

So why are those marigolds in my vegetable beds? ‘Cause they look pretty.

Garden Pests

Common Garden Pests

Identifying garden pests, the most common rose pests in your garden is important if you want to keep garden insect pests and other garden pesky pests that eat rose bushes and other plants in check and under control.

After you have Identified the Pests it’s time to learn how to stop the pests in your garden from eating your flowers and vegetables.

Be creative when planning your rose garden, and don’t make a garden with nothing but roses in it. It’s like ringing the dinner bell for the pests that love to attack them.

The same goes for planting vegetables.

Plant some marigolds and alliums in between the veggies, to deter a lot of the most common garden pests from eating the vegetable garden.

It’s easy to get over anxious about garden creepy crawlers, but in general, adopting a live and let live attitude is helpful.

No one should habitually walk around in the garden with a spray bottel of malodorous killer gunk for sure.

Rose Gardening Pest Control

Roses are known to attrack certain pests that like to feed on the plants foilage, buds and flowers. Read my page about simple ways to keep those pesky insects away from your roses.

How To Keep Pests From The Garden

Certain plants have a deterent effect on many Garden Insect Pests.

The companion plants that I use in my own rose garden include alliums, all garlic and onion family plants, catnip, thyme, rosemary, allysums, tansy, coriander, fennel, nasturtiums, petunias, mint and geraniums.

These plants also attracts beneficial insects and keep bad pests from your garden.

One caution about mint. It is an invasive plant, that is best planted in a pot, and then put in your flower, vegetable and herb garden.

How To Stop Pests In Your Garden

A windbreak of some kind will keep a number of pests out your garden.

Low-flying varieties of pests are detered by a physical barrier close to the plant of their choice.

So planting along walls and hedges is always great.

Common Rose Pests And Controls

APHID PESTS:Garden rose pests such as Aphids are eaten by lady beetles, lacewings and many other predators. Ahpids are repelled by garlic, dill, fennel, nasturtiums, catnip, coriander and marigolds.

Rose Thrips:Tiny insects that hide inside buds and flowers and suck their juices so buds fail to open and flowers get distorted and discolored.

CANE BORERS: If several or all of a rose’s large canes wilt and die, you have cane borers. Most garden insect pests whose larvae develop inside rose canes are repelled by alliums. Remove individual swellings by pruning below the brown, infested area.

CATERPILLARS: These garden pests are parasitized by certain wasps, including yellow jackets, eaten by certain beetles and many birds. They are also repelled by old fashioned re-seeding petunias. You can handpick them and drop them in a bucket of soapy water.

JAPANESE BEETLES: Japanese beetles, rose chafers, cucumber beetles are garden pests that are eaten by beneficial nematodes, and repelled by catmint, garlic, and geraniums. Hand-picking keeps the numbers of all beetles down to bearable level. I recommend taking a walk through your garden in the very early morning, and dropping beetles into a bucket of soapy water. Milky spores (Bacillus popilliae) is very effective for the Japanese beetles if you are having a real tough problem.

LEAFHOPPERS: These pests are eaten by dansel bugs and assassin bugs. They may also be repelled by alliums, and wormweed. These fast moving sucking insect pests usually cause little damage to a healthy rose bush.

PILLBUGS & SAWBUGS: These garden pests don’t like it dry, so water early in the morning so the sun can evaporate excess moisture. If you have lots of problems, use corse mulch, instead of fine mulch, to avoid making a damp cozy place where they can hide.

ROSE MIDGES: These garden insect pests are repelled by alliums and strong-scented herbs. Prune off infested foilage and flowers as soon as possible and destroy.

ROSE SLUGS: They are green sluglike worms that leave behind leaves that are eaten between the veins. If there is little damage and you can spot them, simply pick them off by hand and dispose of them.

SPIDER MITES: These are related to spiders and can be serious garden pests. They pierce cells on the undersides of leaves and suck out fluids. Spraying the undersides of rose leaves with a blast of water daily usually reduces the spider mites population. This is working for me in my garden. If spider mites is a problem for you, treat your dormant roses with Dormant Oil Spray to smother overwintering spider mite eggs.

SCALE: Scale is caused by young scale insects that feed on the plant and develop a shell over their body. To prevent infestation spray rose canes with Horticultural Oil in late winter or early spring.

HOUSE CATS:I certainly wouldn’t call my adorable garden companion cat Max, a pest. He follows me around when I do my garden chores like a small puppy. However, I get a lot of e-mails from folks who have trouble with their cats in their gardens. Cats do less damage than dogs that’s for sure. A sleeping cat doesn’t compact the soil as much as a dog. Planting catmint a bit away from a newly planted area, usually keeps my cat from bothering my flower or vegetable beds. Or you can simply put catmint in containers and move them to a place where your cat likes it. A squirt from the garden hose, the minute your cat steps in the bed is also effective. Repeat until the cat gets the message.

DEER PROBLEMS: A lot of gardeners have problems with Deers eating their roses and other plants. They love roses, that’s for sure. My own sister has had problems with Deers eating the roses in her front garden. Then she discovered this ‘Deer Away’ product, and now they wont even touch her roses. Yes, it’s non toxic, but the Deers don’t like it.

Deer Away — 8 ounces — $ 17.99
About the Deer Away — 8 ounce: The Deer Away — 8 ounce is non-offensive to humans and uses oil of mustard, extracts of chili, and inedible egg solids. The latex polymer provides lasting protection. 8 ounces comes in this shaker, which is ready to use.

MOLES & MICE: To keep out burrowing rodents, deep-flashing 18 to 24 inches below ground and 4 to 6 inches above ground will really help. I know it’s a lot of work, but it is effective. The red spider lily, Lycoris radiata, that blooms in the fall, is a great repellant if the bulbs are planted as a barrier around the garden. Also great for the vegetable garden. Rodents don’t eat narcissus bulbs as they are toxic, so make a nice spring and fall edging by mixing them with Lycoris lilies. It not only looks pretty, but will keep these critter pests out. Or if you have a serious critter problem use an Ultrasonic Pest Repeller it is safe for pets and humans.

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