How to get rid of spider mites on indoor plants

Spider mite on plants, how to fight?

How to get rid of spider mites on indoor plants, pots

Spider mite is a parasite known enough, these small insects are able to inflict enormous damage potted flowers, flower pots and garden plants. They can be seen only with a magnifying glass. Recognize that the plant was attacked by spider mites, will, if you look closely to the colors, they become brown color, turn yellow, may even fall off the leaves before time.

Spider mite (aphid), getting to the plant, twist around his thin threads, may also be seen on the round pieces of eggs, translucent appearance, which postponed the spider mite. Plant growth is stopped, leaves begin to crumble, it is because the pest sucks all the juice from the flowers.

There are several methods to destroy completely defeat the spider mite. The first method is a flower water bathing the body of low temperature, this method often yielded positive results. If you can not spray the infected plants, for example, pelargonium, saintpaulia, gloxinia, you should try the following method: to hide a bowl, pour back turpentine, or crushed garlic and wrap a package made of polyethylene. Turpentine to give off harmful to tick evaporated, and garlic – volatile, that are also deadly. Those flowers that are not afraid of sprinkling, must be treated with a mixture of potato foliage or green soap.

PESTICIDE RECIPE: The Best Bug-Killing Mix for Mites, Mealybugs, Aphids, and Thrips (Works well for orchids & house plants)

I don’t use systemic pesticides – they are not available for consumer purchase in Canada (save the bees, right?) so it’s not an option. Also, I grow plants exclusively in my home…systemics are not something you want to be breathing – and if you smell it, you’re breathing it. If you still don’t care about systemics and just want to get rid of the bugs (even if that means killing the bees), then you have lots of options to choose from, but you wont find those here.

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Kills Spider Mites, False/Red Mites, Mealybugs, Aphids, and Thrips

Ingredients for the Best Bug for Killing Pesticide

  • 1 Cup of Water
  • 1/2 tsp – Dr. Bronner’s Peppermint Soap – after hearing the value of this from a few sites and from Glen Decker from Piping Rock Orchids, I started using this and love it.
    • Substitution soap: 5 drops of Blue Dawn Dish Soap; not sure why the blue version is specifically called for, but it appears that everyone on the web says THAT is the one that works best (and it worked for me, so I’m not arguing it).
  • 25-40 drops of mineral oil – I use baby oil.
  • Optional: Some people use 1/2 ratio of isopropyl alcohol to 1/2 water. I don’t because it makes it hard to breath when spraying a lot of plants and from experience it doesn’t seem any more effective than just water alone.

Added Oomf / Additional Bug-Killing Power

More Oils! You can use a combination of these, or all of them. Your goal is around 25-50 drops total (mineral oil AND whatever substitutes) per cup of water.

  • Neem Oil (10-20 drops)
    Often available at healthfood stores in the “pills + skin section”; coldpressed is what you want and it’s a solid at room temp, so you’ll need to heat it up before adding it to your soap/water mix.
  • Cinnamon oil / extract (10-20 drops)
    Stinks—makes your whole house smell like cinnamon (which sounds nicer in theory than it does in practice)…but it does seem to work well.
  • Eucalyptus oil / extract (10-20 drops)

Directions for Applying this Home-Made Pesticide to Infested Plants

In a spray bottle create a mixture of the above ingredients. I ensure the first 20% is warm water, then I shake it mixing up all the oils, then I’ll add the rest of the cooler water to top-up the spray bottle. Shake it up, mix the soap and ingredients around before each use, then generously spray the plant. Get the tops of the leaves, the bottom of the leaves, and the stalk/stem. Also coat the mites, aphids, thrips, mealybugs or whatever bug you’re trying to kill. Soak the top and bottom sides of all the leaves (it’s okay if it gets into the substrate/soil). Let it sit for about 5–10 mins. Spray again liberally; wait another 5 mins then take them to the shower (or sink) and spray all the leaves with clean water; let the water run through the potting mix for a while too to rinse out any soap.

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Tips for Mealybugs & Thrips (hard to kill bugs):

If you really want to get rid of pests on a plant, repot it the first time you do this application. Spray the leaves, the stem, AND the roots…nuke the plant with the spray. I have eradicated spidermites and false mites with a single application by doing this.

Tip for Spider mites (the kind that make webs):

Use a really fine atomizer spray bottle and just make a nice clouding mist around the plant from top to bottom. The webs will grab the droplets and the spidermites are hooped b/c they cant walk around without getting stuck in oil. I don’t even drench plants that have these, I just give it a good and even misting spray a couple days in the week, followed by a shower at the end of the week and the spider mites are gone for another year.

Tip for False/Red mites (the kind that don’t make webs):

These things are a pain and will be all over the plant including on the roots and in the pot. Make sure you fully drench the plant if you have false spider mites…for orchids like phals and jewel orchids, it’s a good idea to repot them and spray the roots. If you’re not going to repot…then run that mix through the potting media a couple times so that it kills any on the roots or in the media.

Caution: Test this home-made bug spray first

Before you go spraying ALL of your plants with this mix, you may want to test it on your plants. Also, know this: orchid buds and blooms do not do well with alcohol or soap on them. I lost a giant spike on my Phal. Malibu Madonna that had over 20 flowers on it when I sprayed—all of the flowers: DEAD.

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Why does this non-toxic mite, mealybug, thrips and aphid killer work?

The soap reduces the surface tension of the water and allows the oil to mix. The soap also has that surface-tension changing property on the bug’s waxy outside layer…so insects that can normally repel, now can’t. The ratio of water to oil helps distribute/dilute the oil so you’re not coating your plant in a thick layer of oil. The diluted oil is enough to coat the insect and they suffocate. In the cases where a bug is able to avoid suffocation by the mineral oil, the inclusion of other oils like neem, cinnamon, or eucalyptus make the plant surface less ideal for the bug. Neem stops them from feeding so it’s the best. Cinnamon burns my mouth…so I assume it does the same to the bugs. And Eucalyptus is likely toxic to many bugs…so it just makes sense.

Anyways, the point is, this mix suffocates and drowns your bugs.

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