How to Get Rid of Ants Eating Strawberries, Home Guides, SF Gate

How to Get Rid of Ants Eating Strawberries

Ants in the garden provide soil aeration and feed on a variety of insect pests, but occasionally they may also cause problems for your strawberry plants. Ants sometimes visit strawberry plants to eat the sweet fruit. If you see ants on your strawberries, they are probably accompanied by aphids. Aphids feed on your plants and can spread disease. Aphids produce a sweet substance called honeydew that ants use as a food source. Several methods of ant control also work to ward off aphids.

Spray plants with a strong blast of water from a hose. This knocks off many ants and aphids. Repeat the spraying several times per day, if necessary.

Look for aphids on the leaves and stems of the plants. Aphids look like tiny green or brown insects that congregate in tightly packed groups. Discard any plant material that shows signs of aphid infestation, such as wilting, yellowing or curling. This eliminates a food source for the ants, and they may leave voluntarily.

Wrap a sticky material, such as double-sided tape, around the stems near the base of the strawberry plants. This prevents ants and aphids from crawling up the plants. Replace the sticky material every week or more often if it gets covered with ants and other debris.

Spread a layer of cedar chip mulch around the plants. Cedar chips repel some types of ants, such as the Argentine ant. Avoid using pine straw as mulch, as this gives ants a place to nest.

Surround your plants with a line of diatomaceous earth, chalk dust or talcum powder. Ants will not cross the line.

Pour boiling water or apple cider vinegar directly on the ant’s nests to kill them quickly.

Make an herbal repellant tea. To make the tea, take 8 ounces of cuttings from a sage, peppermint, tansy or catmint plant. Boil the cuttings in 1 quart of water, then strain the mixture into a spray bottle. Mix in 1 teaspoon of liquid castile soap or coconut oil soap. Spray your plants as needed to repel the ants.

Keep slugs away from your plants. Ants often attack strawberry plants after slugs damage them. To keep slugs at bay, spread used coffee grounds, diatomaceous earth or human hair around the plants. Fill shallow bowls with beer and set them around the plants. Slugs crawl into the bowls and drown.

Avoid overwatering the plants. Strawberries need about 1 inch of water per week. Too much water will cause root rot and other problems, and ants tend to invade rotting plants. Rotting may also occur due to pH imbalance, fertilizer imbalance, fungal spores or microscopic worms called nematodes.

The main diseases and pests of amaryllis: preventive measures and treatment

Amaryllis is from Africa, so he cannot spend the winter in open areas — he will die. They grow an exotic plant at home on a window sill or stand for flowerpots, in the open air it will be healthy only in the warm season.

Frequent problems when growing amaryllis, how to fix them

  • Amaryllis does not bloom
  • Amaryllis leaves turn yellow
  • Leaves darken or rot
  • The flowers wilt and the leaves turn pale
  • Amaryllis flowers turn pale

How to deal with fungal diseases of amaryllis

  • Tractosis
  • Stagonsporosis
  • Gray rot
  • Fusarium (root rot)

The main pests of amaryllis, ways to combat them

  • Shatter-pan
  • Onion mite
  • Mealybug
  • Amaryllis Cheese
  • Aphid
  • Thrips

Frequent problems when growing amaryllis, how to fix them

Most often, amaryllis disease is caused by inappropriate plant conditions. Before you buy a flower in your collection, you need to know the details about caring for it. This will help you avoid problems with the plant and prevent possible diseases.

Amaryllis does not bloom

Amaryllis refuses to bloom in several cases:

  • Bad light
  • Lack of power
  • When planting the bulb is deeply deepened into the soil
  • Root disease is possible
  • There was no rest period
  • The plant requires transplanting and removing the resulting new bulbs.

Amaryllis leaves turn yellow

If you notice that amaryllis leaves turn yellow, there are two reasons: or excessive soil moisture, or parasites — thrips and aphids.

The way out of this situation: the regime of watering needs to be settled, urgently to get rid of pests.

If the leaves of the plant began to dry, do not worry — rest period begins.

This is a natural phenomenon for amaryllis: you need to stop watering the flower, and when the leaves dry up, cut them off.

Leaves darken or rot

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Darkening or even leaf rot may cause abundant watering of the plant, perhaps the flower is standing in a damp room, or it does not have enough heat. Here it is necessary to change the conditions and place of amaryllis to more comfortable.

The optimum level of humidity is moderate — 40-50%. Make sure that the moisture does not fall on the leaves.

The flowers wilt and the leaves turn pale

Amaryllis leaves turn pale and flowers wilt from behind. too wet soil. You may not have bothered with good drainage when planting, or small holes in a pot.

The situation needs to be corrected in order not to lose the plant. It must be remembered that spray amaryllis can notespecially if the air in the room is humid or cool.

Amaryllis flowers turn pale

When planting a southern plant should carefully pick up his place. If the flower is under direct sunlight for a longer time of day, its petals fade.

The plant must be removed from the influence of ultraviolet radiation. The best place to live for amaryllis will be southeast or southwest windows. If the windows are south, the flower must be applied.

How to deal with fungal diseases of amaryllis

With the defeat of fungal diseases Amaryllis is literally all sprinkle red spots and stripes. Spots are visible on the stems and flowers, there is even redness on the bulbs. To combat diseases most often used Bordeaux mixture or Fundazol.


Dark spots on the leaves of amaryllis with brown drips on the tips caused fracture. The reason may be excessive watering. Leaves damaged by fungus must be destroyed. Process flower fungicide, moderate watering and spraying.


Symptom of the disease — red spots on the leaves and stems of the plant, and the onion is affected. It is a contagious disease, and the result is the death of a flower.

Favorable conditions for the development of stagonosporosis — a sharp temperature drop in the room and excessive watering. The plant should be immediately removed from other vases.

The treatment may not give results, so when buying bulbs, as a disease prevention, make sure that they are healthy, and take care of the plant itself.

Gray rot

A sign of gray rot are brown spots on the leaves. Excess moisture in the soil can cause this infection.

To cure a plant, it is necessary to immediately transplant it into fresh soil and another container. As a preventive measure, it is necessary to observe the amaryllis watering regime, avoiding over-wetting of the soil.

Fusarium (root rot)

When infected with Fusarium observed plant wilting.

It provokes the appearance of the disease lack of nutrients, too dense soil and temperature drops.

Since the causative agent of infection persists for a long time both in the onion and in the soil, the plant must be removed from its neighbors, and the soil and container should be disinfected.

The main pests of amaryllis, ways to combat them

There is an opinion that the poisonous juice of the plant protects it from pests. Unfortunately, this is not the case.


Brown spots on the leaves of a plant will inform about the presence of this parasite. To get rid of the pest, prepare a solution from household soap and wipe all parts of the flower with it.

Onion mite

Finding onion mite is difficult — it affects the bulbs.However, when these pests of amaryllis appear, the plant, its above-ground part, begins to rot.

It provokes the appearance of the parasite high temperature in the place of amaryllis. Since the plant will not survive with the affected bulb, it is easier to carry out preventive measures: the temperature regime during care and the selection of healthy bulbs during planting.

For prophylaxis bulbs before planting can be treated with special means (Keltan). Fit and pink manganese solution.


Mealybug leaves behind white spots on all aboveground parts of the plant. Get rid of this white insect by using a wet wipe. If the disease is running, apply insecticides (Admiral, Aktara, Spark, Fitoverm).

Amaryllis Cheese

Another chertzum — amaryllis — affects the onion plants, settling under their scales. Because of this, the flower stops growing and loses leaves. The same insecticides help in the destruction of the parasite as in the treatment of mealybugs.


Aphids feed on the leaves of plants and, if they do not get rid of it, a whole colony of parasites will appear. You can detect aphids visually, and besides, the leaves affected by the pest turn yellow and collapse..

Try to get rid of her using potash soapwiping the leaves with a soft sponge with soapy water.


Thrips — small brown parasiteswhich is clearly visible on the leaves of the flower. The plant with the appearance of thrips turns yellow.

To combat the parasite, use one of the solutions: Spark, Fitoverm, Aktara or other drug. You need to process twice, with a five-day break.

Ammaryllis amazingly beautiful flower and not capricious in the care. The main thing is to take care of it in time and correctly, strictly observing all the modes: temperature, humidity and power.

What I’ve Learned about Strawberries and Pesticides

Since eating in season is what Spring Vegan is about, and strawberries are a late spring treat, I thought that it would be important to talk a little more about this wonderful California fruit that we all love. Due to concerns I previously had with the cultivation of strawberries, I usually pass them by at the market. It was not until a box of strawberries came with one of my vegetable boxes that I did a little more digging.

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I had recalled receiving an email in February from the the Environmental Working Group (EWG) regarding approval of use of a pesticide, methyl iodide, which would replace the current pesticide being used, methyl bromide. The decision to use methyl iodide was met with great opposition as it is considered “one of the most toxic chemicals on earth” by some. The company finally pulled it from US distribution and we no longer have to worry about its use on produce grown here.

During my research I found more information regarding how strawberries are grown and that most if not all organic strawberries are started on a non-organic farm. I then emailed the farm where my vegetable box came from to inquire on the growing method of their strawberries. It took almost 5 days (I usually get responses from them in a day) and the farmer (never received an email from him) finally responded.

His email did not directly address my question regarding use of pesticides, but did confirm that the root stock did start at a conventional farm. He did not provide specifics of the pesticides used at the conventional farm, but assured me that once they were transplanted they were not treated with pesticides. I was confused…

You see, whenever I picture my organic produce growing, I always see it starting and ending on an organic farm. It never crossed my mind that the plants could start off conventionally grown. Since this was new information for me, I thought to share with you so that you could make an informed decision when purchasing strawberries.

Eating Organic Strawberries

The first thing that you should consider before purchasing strawberries is the growing method. According to EWG, some tested conventionally grown strawberries had more than 13 pesticide residues making them #3 on their dirty dozen list. One pesticide, methyl bromide, which is widely used in the production of California strawberries is known to have affects on the ozone as well as toxic effects on the body. Due the affects on the ozone, methyl bromide has been on a phase-out plan and was to be completely phased out by 2005 in developed countries and by 2015 in developing countries. Unfortunately, countries can apply for a critical use exemption which extends use of the pesticide.

Pesticides are linked to causing toxicity in the body affecting the brain and nervous system, hormones, skin, eyes, lungs and potentially cause cancer. More risk is involved when eating conventionally grown fruits or vegetables with higher concentrations of pesticide residue. Due to the health and environmental issues of most pesticides, it is safe to say that reducing pesticide exposure is important. The best way to reduce exposure is by eating organic. Since strawberries are #3 on the EWG list for high pesticide residue then it is suggested that only organic strawberries are eaten.

Are Organic Strawberries 100% Safe?

This is the question of the century! Technically, yes, they are organic since the farm that you buy them from does not use pesticides when growing the strawberries. But there is one caveat. Strawberry root stock or starter plants are not organic. Actually, they are grown conventionally. Based on my research and discussions with local farmers, it is very difficult and near to impossible to grow organic root stock.

Now, I cannot attest for the safety of the final product, the organic strawberry. I do find it difficult though that by even purchasing organic strawberries, support is going to conventional growing and use of pesticides such as methyl bromide which directly affects the environment and the health of the people who work with the pesticide. Unlike most fruits and vegetables that start off at the organic farm, strawberries start off in pesticide treated soil.

I had a conversation with an organic farmer and he said that his supplier provides an affidavit that they use the least amount of pesticides needed to grow the strawberry starter plants. He also mentioned that he knew of a farm that grew their own root stock organically but could not compete due to the high cost and low yield.

With this information, I have decided not to purchase strawberries until I can find a farm that grows from organic root stock or until I grow my own. I would love to hear what you think. Was this information that you were aware of? What are your thoughts, will you continue to buy strawberries? Will you start buying organic if you were previously buying conventional?

We may not be chefs but our food is from our hearts —→ ♥ Becoming a healthy vegan was is still a challenge. We hope the vegan recipes and info here helps you along your way. Looking for more? Go to the Spring Vegan Recipes Section.

Types of spider mites: how to recognize a malicious parasite?

Spider Tick — dangerous pest, destroying both home plants and crops.

In total there are more than a thousand.

However, we will tell only about the most common.

It is found throughout Europe. Hurts indoor plants and greenhouse. In warm areas, it settles on open-field crops. Prefers to eat Solanaceae (potatoes, tomatoes, datura, eggplants), citrus and house plants. How to get rid of spider mites on eggplants, tomatoes and peppers, read on our website.

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The adult female has a size of 0.4 mm in length and 0.2 mm in width. Body color — red with a purple tinge. Males are faded, painted in light red tones. The larva is transparent when it begins to eat, it becomes greenish. The nymph is gray, covered with specks.

Red spider mite — photo:

The red mite loves heat more than other varieties. Most suitable temperature for his life — from 30 °. Therefore, it practically does not occur in the open areas of the northern regions. However, in houses and greenhouses time to withdraw more than 20 generations.

We advise you to read our article «Fighting spider mites on indoor plants», which describes all the nuances and features of the destruction of ticks in the house, as well as drugsmost suitable for this.


One of the most dangerous members of the family, is found everywhere, different omnivorous, affecting over 200 plant species. It can produce up to 18 generations per year.

Only by the end of the summer do females change color to a reddish-red one. Eggs are first greenish, then beige, mother of pearl. The larvae are transparent, faded. Nymphs are painted in greyish-green tones.

Optimal living conditions — temperature 28-30 °, humidity 40-50. Harm is caused by all degrees of development, except eggs.


Despite the name, its habitat very extensive. This species is found in Ukraine, all of Central Asia, in Primorsky and Stavropol Territory, Kazakhstan, the Far and Near East, Western Siberia, Europe and North America.

Refers to polyphagous parasites, hitting pome and stone fruit crops, ornamental and leguminous plants.

The size of adults reaches 0.6 mm, the color is green during feeding, wintering mites turn red.

The eggs are first colorless, then yellowish green.

Pale green larvae, nymphs acquire a saturated green-yellow hue, also covered with black specks.


Inhabits in warm regions Russia, Ukraine, Tajikistan, Armenia, Moldova, Uzbekistan, Georgia, Kazakhstan, Azerbaijan, Western Europe, China, Korea, Japan.

It feeds on fruit crops, both seed and stone fruit. Most common on plum, turn, peaches, apple, sweet cherry, pear, cherry.

Differs in pronounced sexual dimorphism. Females are larger, reach 0.55 mm in length, and males are no more than 0.4 mm. The body color of the females is dark red, the males are green.

Colorless eggs gradually acquire a pinkish — green color. Larvae and nymphs are painted with black spots on a light green background.

Read our article on how to deal with spider mites on raspberries, currants, strawberries and grapes.


Heat loving tropic inhabitant. Like all other guests of tropical regions, prefers to live in conditions of high humidity. In Europe, it can only be found on indoor plants and in greenhouses (greenhouses).

Recognizing his attack is very difficult, as this tick does not spin a web. Therefore, the owners of the plants come to life when the pest has already multiplied greatly.

Differs in small sizes, reaching a maximum of 0.3 mm in length.

It has an ellipsoid body, painted in red or green.

To discover it experienced growers are advised to hold a white napkin on the inside of the leaves.


Another guest from the tropics. Loves heat, is not afraid of moist air. Throughout Europe, can only live in homes and greenhouses. Monophage eats cyclamen, can settle on chrysanthemum, balsamic vine, gloxinia and geranium. The rest of the plants can not be afraid of him.

It has a very small size (0.1 — 0.2 mm), an oval body of a dull color. May be greenish or yellow. A pest colony is most often collected in the upper half of the leaf. Large tick aggregations look like dust.


Common everywhere, even shrubs and trees damage. Settles on young leaves, during feeding, forms bloating on them — galls.

The body is elongated, shaped like a spindle. The color is off-white or brown.

A resident of South America, the most common in Europe in homes and indoor spaces. He prefers citrus fruits, euonymus, cacti, oleander, ficus, saintpaulia, aucuba, taghetis.

Treats easily removed wreckers as eggs are always on leaves, do not hide in hard-to-reach places.

Microscopic dimensions — not more than 0.3 mm.

The little body is oval, brown color with a red shade.

Inhabits on the lower surface of the leaves.

Root (bulbous)

You can meet everywhere. Settled inside the bulbs colors and feeds on their tissues. Such an onion turns into dust. To detect pests can only dig a plant from the ground.

The body has the shape of an oval, extended in the sides, the size reaches 1.5 mm in length. The color is faded — pale yellow or dirty — white.

Omnivorous, strong voracity, high fecundity mark spider mites as pest family various cultivated plants. But experience shows that it is quite possible not only to fight with them, but also to win.

Therefore, do not fold your hands, get acquainted with the materials of our site that will help in difficult fight with arachnoid parasite and all you get! This will help you our article «Methods and measures to combat spider mite.»

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