FOLK REMEDIES FOR ANTS IN THE GARDEN: HOW TO GET RID OF PESTS — PEST CONTROL

How to get rid of ants in the garden and garden folk remedies

As soon as ants appeared in the garden or in the garden, colonies of aphids should be expected soon. And behind it in turn, there will be bacterial and fungal diseases. In general, there are almost no chances to fully develop in garden plants with such neighbors. And if nothing is done, then you should not count on a harvest. How to get rid of ants in the garden with the help of available tools and what to do to these nimble insects bypass your site — this will be discussed in our article.

Harm from insects in the garden

Despite the fact that ants destroy caterpillars and other harmful insects, in the beds they are unwanted guests. In the course of their vital activity, the soil becomes loose, enriched with nitrogen, potassium and humus, they do not cause harm to plants. Why do they need to drive away from the site?

Did you know? Scientists from Harvard University in Florida, during an experiment, found out that ants are as ancient as dinosaurs. For the first time these insects appeared about 130 million years ago and were already experiencing a mass extinction.

The explanation is simple: ants feed on sticky aphid excretions. This is their favorite food, so the whole colony protects sucking parasites, and those, in turn, drink juice from cultivated plants and accompany the appearance of pathogenic microorganisms.

Collecting dead bugs and butterflies throughout the area in order to feed the uterus, ants contribute to the spread of aphids. But even this is not all the accusations in their direction: by building their underground dwellings, the ubiquitous insects make many moves in the root system of plants, thus not allowing garden and garden crops to develop.

Moreover, they are carriers of weed seeds. Obviously, the benefits that these dexterous insects do to the garden beds and the garden do not at all compensate for the losses from the vital activity of their faithful companion — aphids.

Important! An insurmountable barrier for ants is the arrows of garlic tied up on tree trunks. They can also be expanded around the perimeter of the bed.

Folk remedies

Fighting ants at the dacha is a laborious process, so you need to have patience right away. It makes no sense to kill a whole colony, the relocation of these insects to another place has turned out to be more effective. There are many ways to do this, consider the best.

Digging an anthill

This is one of the radical methods of insect control. It consists in extracting the whole ant nest and moving it off-site. Experienced owners advise you to protect yourself with special clothes and dig as deep as possible.

It is possible to fight with ants and chemical preparations: «Medvetoks», «Ants», «Ants», «Fufanon».

Then, the anthill, depending on its size, is immersed in a wheelbarrow or in a bucket and taken out of their possessions to any place you like. They resort to relocation in rare cases when other means from ants at the dacha are powerless.

Be careful: the remaining tenants can settle in the old place, therefore, so that they do not have such a desire, sprinkle the excavated ditch with table salt. You can also use lime powder or wood ash. As a preventive measure, it would not hurt to dig up nearby sites. They can also be fertilized with ashes.

Plants, pest from plots

Some mistresses share the experience of sowing in the beds and in the tree trunks of garden plants of narcissus, lavender, lemon balm, peppermint, mustard, and even allow wormwood to grow. The fact is that these smells are very unpleasant to insects.

Tomatos, mustard, red hot chilli peppers, onions, garlic, parsley, anise, marigolds, black elderberry, all coniferous species were included in the list of ant repelling crops. And the more such smells will be around, the faster gardener lovers will flee.

If you do not have time to make the crops of these crops in time, and the ants have already chosen your site, do not be discouraged. It is enough to tax them with an anthill, and soon the insects will leave your yard.

On the forums, women giving advice to mix coniferous hairpins or sawdust with foliage of wormwood, peppermint, fennel, pour over all the kerosene and put a “treat” under the dwelling of uninvited guests. To improve the effect, sprinkle dry mustard or black pepper around the nest. Note that the degree of evaporation of incense is influenced by humidity and temperature. So be prepared for the selection of tools that will work.

Important! To save the garden from aphids, spray the plants, especially the leaves on the inside, with soda solution in the proportion of 10 liters of water for 3 tablespoons of powder.

Boric acid

For those who are looking for answers to the question of how to instantly remove ants from the garden, a recipe is suitable, the main ingredient of which is boric acid. It is enough to dissolve 30 g of powder and 5 tablespoons of sugar in 1 liter of boiling water, add 100 g of sunflower oil, and the product is ready.

You can enhance the effect of a few drops of any essential oil or a glass of vinegar. This mixture should be poured as deep as possible into the ant nest. To do this, you need to make a deep hole in it, and after the liquid is at the destination, cover the nest with a polyethylene flap and fix its edges. After a couple of days, the procedure should be repeated.

Did you know? The main task of ants is to stockpile stocks for the winter, but they do not eat the food they eat without permission. Everything comes at the disposal of the uterus, the so-called «queen», which decides what, when and to whom to eat.

You can improvise in creating an «ant» ant. On the forums, gardeners are divided by the recipe with the addition of shampoo (for the mixture will need about 100 g), soda (no more than 2-3 tablespoons), ash (the number does not matter). Instead of water, you can take a decoction of coniferous branches or tomato stems. Plan your treatment for the period when all the inhabitants of the anthill return home, and be careful not to burn the roots of cultivated plants.

Important! If the juice of lupine to rub the bottom of the trunk of fruit trees, no ant will dare to climb on it.

Kerosene

The smell of this liquid is unbearable for ants. Sensing it, they immediately begin to look for another suitable place for their abode. It is necessary to pour kerosene on top generously over an anthill and the area around it. Some gardeners are advised to additionally pour some money into the recess made in the nest.

It is interesting to read how to get rid of ants in the greenhouse.

As preventive measures, you can moisten small pieces of cloth in kerosene and spread them out, for example, in the berry under each currant bush. Watering pristvolny circles such substance is strictly prohibited, otherwise you will lose not only the ants, but also the plants in the garden.

See also:  Where do ants go to the toilet?

Boiling water

If you do not want to interact with chemical agents, and small workers occupied the garden and garden, prepare boiling water and scald their lair several times a day, after having stirred it up. Created discomfort will give immediate results.

Vegetable oil and water

This is a very effective way to eliminate annoying insects from the garden. For it, it is necessary to dilute any vegetable oil in warm water (it is also possible in boiling water) and pour in the liquid obtained inlets that lead deep into the anthill. Camphor, bay leaf, fennel and black pepper can be added as effect enhancers.

Did you know? Ants never sleep.

Prevention of ants in the garden

Gardeners and gardeners, becoming on the warpath with the ants, use a lot of bait for them, but they are unanimous that it is much easier to prevent the appearance of these insects than to get rid of them later.

For the purpose of prevention, it is important to regularly deeply dig the soil. It would be nice to attract birds to the garden. Also important are measures to prevent the development of aphid colonies. It is from this and you need to start protecting your site.

First, do not allow the trees to be peeled bark — immediately remove it.

Secondly, mix piles of compost in a timely manner, remove fallen leaves and tops after harvesting. When plowing the site, be sure to collect remnants of rhizomes and burn them.

Thirdly, do not start such plants as viburnum and linden in the courtyard — the aphid loves them.

Fourth, do not forget about the healthy lawns of mint, calendula and other plants that are unpleasant to ants. In addition, phytoncides secreted by onions and garlic scare away aphids. These plants cottagers advise sowing around the perimeter of the garden.

The main thing is not to look for ways how to destroy ants in the garden and garden, watch for cleanliness, do not let the weeds grow and never eat food in such places, because even the smallest bread crumbs will lure insects to themselves from the whole area.

ph.farmforage.com

How to get rid of the whitefly in the greenhouse? Detailed overview of effective ways

The whitefly or aleurodid is one of the most common greenhouse pests. This is a small flying insect, up to 2 mm in size, resembling white moths. The wings are elastic, covered with a wax coating that protects them from the effects of insecticides. The larvae resemble gray grains.

In vivo, the insect feeds on flowers. Also, the whitefly perfectly feasts on tomatoes and cucumbers in the greenhouse.

What is the danger?

This insect does not feed on the leaves themselves, but on the sap contained inside.. As a result, the plant begins to rapidly lose its vitality, the leaves become discolored, dry out, the stems become brittle. And so on until death. In addition, the whitefly consumes too much liquid, and some of it releases back, covering the leaves with a sticky coating that is favorable for the development of various fungi.

The danger of the whitefly is that it multiplies extremely quickly, and it is difficult to control its population in the greenhouse after infection. And the insect lays its eggs on the inner side of the leaves, where it is difficult to see and remove them.

How to recognize plant damage?

The defeat of aleurodid plants resembles the influence of aphids. The leaves become sticky, curl here and there, covered with yellowish spots. The very first sign is a flock of small white moths, fluttering fearfully from place to place if you touch the bush. Noticing this, you need to take a closer look at the plants. Signs of whitefly lesion:

  • the plant is stunted, leaves are deformed and wither;
  • yellow spots with fuzzy borders appeared on some leaves;
  • a sticky, honeyish bloom appeared on the plant;
  • black spots were formed — it is a black fungus, a constant companion of honeydew;
  • on the underside of the leaves, translucent scales — the larvae of the whitefly — are visible.

If you notice these signs, then the future harvest in the greenhouse is in grave danger.

Causes of

Whitefly can be expected to appear in warm summer with frequent precipitations.. The fact is that this insect loves a combination of high temperature and high humidity, greenhouses become a favorite habitat for the whitefly. Particularly comfortable for them are those in which normal ventilation is not done, and the plants are planted too closely. Fight the emergence of aleurodid can and in advance. For this you need:

  1. plant plants at a sufficient distance from each other;
  2. more often to air the greenhouse;
  3. refuse spraying in wet weather;
  4. improve plant health through fertilizers and biostimulants (Epin, Domotsvet, Obereg).

How to deal with greenhouse pest?

You can fight this insect using both folk remedies and chemical preparations. In addition, traps, sticks, sprays, fumigators and others have been developed to combat aleurodide. Insecticides will poison not the insect itself, but the sap of the plant. Having drunk it, the adults and larvae will die — but the eggs will remain. therefore poison treatment should be repeated several times.

Folk remedies, in contrast, have a contact effect: they fall on the body of the whitefly and poison it.

On the leaves they will have dark and black spots, gradually merging into one. It is no longer curable, to stop the infection, the diseased plants need to be burned.

Greenhouse treatment

Freezing

As known, already at + 10 degrees the whitefly — a lover of warmth — dies. But the larvae easily tolerate frost, hiding in the ground. That is why for the winter period it is recommended to partially disassemble the greenhouse by running cold into it. And remove the top layer of soil and thoroughly dig.

When removing a greenhouse in the fall, carefully rinse all its joints by brushing them. Whitefly eggs can also be hidden there.

Smoke

It is considered a more effective method of dealing with whitefly. The greenhouse is fumigated with sulfur smoke bombs, as a result of which all the larvae die.

The method of struggle will not work for greenhouses with a galvanized metal frame — it will deteriorate. Such greenhouses are treated with blue vitriol.

How to get rid of mechanical means?

Mechanical removal

Mechanical, «grandfather’s» way to fight whitefly is the most harmless — both for harvest and, unfortunately, for insects.

  1. For starters, insects are harvested by hand and knocked down with water from a watering hose.
  2. Eliminating adult moths, you need to process the leaves, washing them from the larvae and honey dew.
  3. Soap solution is prepared for mechanical removal:
    • grated laundry soap — 1 part;
    • water (t 60-70 °) — 6 parts.

  • The solution is allowed to cool down, after which a cotton wool or a regular household sponge is moistened in it, and they proceed to a painstaking process.
  • It is necessary to wash the leaves, paying special attention to the inner side, where eggs and larvae accumulate.
  • Apply this method is, if the area of ​​the greenhouse is not very large, otherwise the effort expended will not correlate with the result.

    Traps

    Pitfalls are a more modern method.. Ready-made bright yellow or blue sticky traps are produced. Such colors are chosen because they seem to be the most attractive to the whitefly, and the pest willingly flies towards its death.

    See also:  Benefits of Ants in Your Garden, ThriftyFun

    Sticking out such bands, it will be possible to estimate the scale of the disaster — whether many whiteflies have already divorced in the greenhouse. If you do not want to buy the finished, make a trap yourself.

    1. Prepare petrolatum, rosin, castor oil, paint and sheets of paper.
    2. Melt the rosin and honey in a water bath, mix thoroughly. Stir in petroleum jelly and castor oil. You need to take an equal amount of all the ingredients.
    3. Cut the paper into stripes, paint in bright colors.
    4. Spread the cooled mixture on the base and place throughout the greenhouse.

    Also plywood sheets can be used to make traps. So even simpler: when the whitefly sticks a lot, it is washed off, and the plywood is then treated again with a sticky mixture.

    Biological methods

    The biological method is quite clever: here it is necessary to grow the parasite for the parasite! That is, to pick up such an insect that will eat whiteflies, and at the same time will not be interested in cucumbers and tomatoes.

    Ideal for this enkarazii — parasitic insects that destroy other pests. Buy tubes with enkarazii can in a specialty store.

    The contents of the tube are poured into paper cups, which are placed in a greenhouse with a distance of 3 meters. The insect’s search ability is excellent — it will find the whitefly already from 20 meters! The only thing that important — do not process the greenhouse with any chemicalsotherwise the encarasia will also die.

    A predatory bug Macrolofus can also protect against whitefly (it also requires sharing), or a common ladybug. To attract her to the greenhouse, you need to plant there daisies, yarrow or marigolds.

    How to destroy insecticide drugs?

    It makes sense to turn to this method when everything else has been tried. The use of chemistry in a greenhouse is not very welcome. It must be remembered that from the time of processing must pass at least 30 days before the vegetables can be eaten.

    The most effective means of fighting whitefly:

    1. Aktara — a systemic drug that protects plants for up to 5 weeks. To destroy the whitefly from one time, you need to make the solution 3 times more concentrated than indicated on the bag, and water the plants under the root. If Aktara is bred according to the instructions, it will be necessary to water and spray the plants three times, with an interval of a week.
    2. Confidor. Effective, work with the first processing. The whitefly begins to die within an hour and a half. The active ingredient in the preparation is imidacloprid. Accordingly, it can be replaced with other insecticides with the same active ingredient: Applaud, Copfidor, Admir, Gaucho, Provado, Commander, Marathon.
    3. Spark. Available in the form of sticks or soluble tablets. With a solution you need to water the plants — after the first watering the whitefly will die. But the solution itself will remain in the roots and tissues of plants for almost another month. Experienced gardeners note the effectiveness of this drug.

    Alternative fight options

    Watering plants from whitefly can be not only insecticides, but also sparing folk solutions. For example — garlic or sugar solution, dandelion tincture, tobacco.

    The most effective in this line is considered infusion of yarrow.

    To make a millennium infusion you need:

    1. Take dried yarrow (at the rate of 80 g of leaves per 1 liter of water).
    2. Insist for two days and spray the leaves, or wipe them manually.

    The tansy bushes planted in the corners of the greenhouse will also help scare the whitefly.

    Learn about the various means to fight whitefly here, but here we told you how to deal with whitefly on indoor flowers.

    Prevention

    Preventive measures to eliminate the risk of re-occurrence of the whitefly:

    1. After harvesting, it is necessary to remove and burn the entire tops.
    2. In order for the pest not to start again, carry out a full digging of the earth in the entire greenhouse before winter.
    3. If there is a composter in a greenhouse, it must be taken out, as this is a favorable environment not only for aleurodides, but also for many other harmful insects.
    4. Before planting, the soil should be watered with a solution of copper sulphate.

    The fight against the whitefly requires patience and consistency, but this small white mole is not a verdict to the harvest.

    jm.farmforage.com

    Getting Rid of Maggots – The Only Guide You Need

    Almost everyone hates bugs, particularly the kinds that are unsightly, and contribute nothing to the ecosystem. While maggots have their purpose, you don’t want to see them in or outside your home. Most people don’t know that maggots are the larvae form of flies. There is also one type of maggot fly that more commonly resides in carcasses, but will also take up residence in other types of food debris as well. This means that you can potentially have a maggot infestation in nearly any portion of your home. For the squeamish, they’ll want to eradicate them quickly, before they turn into flies and cause an even worse situation.

    What is a Maggot?

    Basically, a maggot is the larvae of a fly. It can be anywhere from two to three millimetres in length, depending on the type of fly it came from. This is also around the size that you’ll really begin to notice them.

    One type of fly that lives on decayed matter and hatches into maggots is from the Calliphoridae family, but there are others such as fruit flies and plant flies which will also cause maggot infestations. Maggots can even live in human flesh, which can become a health concern. There are also certain types of maggots used to eat away dead flesh from the skin, but leave the living tissue alone.

    Where do Maggots Come From?

    Maggot flies undergo six different stages of life: the egg, three larval stages, pupae, and adult fly. It begins by laying eggs in an attractive region. It may be in rotting garbage, a plant, or in the soil of your vegetable garden. It will also be in a spot where the fly thinks that their babies will be safe. The key here is that they lay their eggs in a spot where the maggots have a ready source of food. When the eggs hatch, they release the maggots. Some types hatch only after eight hours of the eggs being laid.

    See also:  Mealybug on houseplants: symptoms and treatment > Garden

    Maggots live in this form for about eight to ten days. After that point, they turn into a flies. During the maggots’ current form, they will eat constantly.

    Surprisingly, a fly can lay hundreds of eggs. You can quickly begin to see how a maggot infestation can happen overnight.

    While maggots serve their purpose in nature—consuming plant matter and carcasses—humans don’t like the look of them at all. It’s also gross to think that flies are laying eggs on fruit that you’re leaving out in a bowl. This is why you often see tiny flies all over the place, even though fruit flies are different than maggot house flies, but the concept is the same.

    Ways to Get Rid of Maggots

    Once you’ve determined that it is maggots that you’re dealing with, and not some other type of insect, you’ll want to find the best method to eradicate them as soon as possible. Often a maggot infestation happens at the least opportune times—the in-laws will be visiting, or there’s a special celebration coming up—so you’ll want to get rid of them fast.

    You have two options, and depending on if you’re on deadline, you may be influenced into using a chemical pesticide first, rather than a natural one.

    Chemical pesticides are easy to obtain from almost any supermarket. Raid is one of the more common brands, and is sprayed onto surfaces, or into the air at flying insects. Look for a brand that contains permethrin. Many other products such as motor oil contain permethrin, but if you have pets, you may wish to avoid using motor oil.

    A pet shampoo that is designed as a flea treatment may also be a safe way. Mix up your shampoo with water and put into a spray bottle. The added benefit is that this will be safe to use around dogs and cats.

    Non-chemical methods include physically eradicating them. This means tossing out any carcasses or food debris they may have infested. You can sweep them up and stomp on them. You can scoop them into a bag and place it in the freezer to kill them. If it’s an outdoor location, you can pour boiling water on them.

    You’ll need to scrub down your kitchen, garbage bins and any other regions that you’ve seen them congregating. Keeping the floors clean can also be a detriment. You may wish to do rubber gloves and wipe down all surfaces with pure bleach. Consider this your spring cleaning and wash down everything.

    If you see flies in the air, spray them with raid or use a fly swatter. The sooner you can kill the adults, the sooner they will stop laying their eggs, which eventually turn into maggots.

    You may also have to treat your garden, if you’ve seen them there.

    It’s awful to think about, but if you have maggots living in your carpet, you can give it a good steam cleaning. Don’t use one of those small hand-held contraptions—rent a powerful steam cleaner from the store.

    Recipe to Get Rid of Maggots

    You can make up your own recipe to use in the eradication of maggots around your home. Here are the steps needed.
    Purchase the following list of ingredients and materials.

    Ingredients :

    • Pet flea shampoo containing permethrin, cypermethrine, or carbamate (Basically, an insecticide).
    • A large plastic spray bottle.
    • Vinegar
    • Mint oil (Peppermint oil can be found at most pharmacies).
    • Tap water

    Method :

    1. Use one part pet shampoo for every two parts of water.
    2. Pour into bottle.
    3. Add one cup of vinegar.
    4. Pour about one tablespoon of mint oil into the bottle.
    5. Shake the bottle. The vinegar will keep the shampoo from sudsing up.

    How to Use?

    Step 1 : Spray down the surfaces where you see the maggots.
    Step 2 : Let the solution sit for about half an hour.
    Step 3 : Use disposable paper towels to mop up the mixture and the dead maggots.
    Step 4 : Discard into a plastic bag.
    Step 5 : Tie bag closed and dispose into an outdoor trash bin.
    Step 6 : Use a clean cloth to go over surfaces to ensure they’re sparkling clean.
    Step 7 : Soak cleaning cloths in bleach to reuse again.

    How this Recipe Works?

    Your homemade pesticide spray already contains a pesticide used to kill pet’s fleas, so that is effective at killing maggots as well. Maggots and flies like to avoid peppermint, and the peppermint oil also has the benefit of leaving behind a fresh clean scent, which will cover up any rotten food smells. The vinegar works at keeping the bubbles at bay, as you don’t want a ton of them over the surface of your floors or counters, and it also has a natural antiseptic property too.

    Other Ways to Kill Maggots

    You may also use other products to kill maggots, depending on where they are located, and on what type of surface. The following can be sprinkled or sprayed around the home.

    • Bleach
    • Essential oils
    • Diatomaceous earth
    • Vinegar
    • Carburetor cleanser (found in the automotive section).

    Things You Need to Remember

    No matter which chemical or method you choose, ensure that your wear a brand new pair of rubber gloves. You don’t want your skin to come into contact with the eggs or maggots. Some chemicals, such as bleach or carburetor cleanser, may also be corrosive to skin.

    Consider where you’re treating the surface, and whether kids or pets are likely to come into contact. For example, the inside of garbage cans can be treated with harsher chemicals, as they have lids on them to prevent curious eyes from prying. But you’ll want to exercise caution if you’ve found maggots on your kitchen floor. If in doubt, wear gloves, and rinse and rinse again. Then dry thoroughly with clean rags.

    Don’t mix chemicals together unless you’re sure they won’t interact with each other. Look up maggot pesticides on the internet to see which are the most effective.

    How to Avoid Maggots?

    Just like with any other type of insect, it takes some elbow grease to prevent them. This means removing kitchen garbage to the outdoors bins on a daily basis, and ensuring that garbage bags are completely tied up. Be sure to wipe down counters and floors with a natural vinegar and water mixture on a daily basis.

    If you have pets, wash their dishes on a daily basis, and wipe down the regions where pet food may have spilled.

    If you have house plants, you can buy a natural spray for them that will be unattractive for flies to land on.

    Wash your outdoor bins on a regular basis, and hose down sidewalks, driveways, and paths.

    Screened windows and doors have to be some of the best inventions every made. If you don’t have any on your home, get them installed immediately.

    Flies don’t like certain herbs, such as cloves or basil, so make up some sachets and tuck them around the home. They also make the home smell good.

    If you compost organic food waste, never ever put in bones, meat, rice, or anything else that isn’t purely solid fruit, vegetable, or plant matter.

    With a bit of effort you can eradicate your maggot infestation, and your neighbours, friends, and family will be none the wiser. It’s quite the incentive to start keeping your home clean and tidy on a daily basis.

    www.completehomemaker.com

    Share:
    No comments

    Добавить комментарий

    Your e-mail will not be published. All fields are required.

    ×
    Recommend
    Adblock
    detector